Author Topic: Vastex LED Exposure.. Nice unit  (Read 3805 times)

Offline Maxie

  • !!!
  • Gonzo Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 1316
Re: Vastex LED Exposure.. Nice unit
« Reply #30 on: September 20, 2014, 02:31:12 AM »
I have built a lot of my own equipment.     I think it would be much cheaper to find the specs (how many lamps, distance between lamps and distance to glass, lamp type and strength etc) and look for a LED lamp supplier.    Not a silk screen manufacturer.
It's interesting how everyone is dropping the point light theory and moving to LEDs.       Personally I don't think it matters what light source you have if you have a good vacuum.
We all seem to strive for perfection but we have to remember that we are are printing shirts and not building rockets.
Maxie Garb.
T Max Designs.
Silk Screen Printers
www.tmax.co.il


Offline dirkdiggler

  • Gonzo Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 1803
Re: Vastex LED Exposure.. Nice unit
« Reply #31 on: September 20, 2014, 08:20:11 AM »
is it possible to take a Vastex retro kit and put it in an MSP 3140?
If he gets up, we'll all get up, IT'LL BE ANARCHY!-John Bender

Offline mimosatexas

  • !!!
  • Gonzo Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 4221
  • contributor
Re: Vastex LED Exposure.. Nice unit
« Reply #32 on: September 20, 2014, 08:55:09 AM »
I have built a lot of my own equipment.     I think it would be much cheaper to find the specs (how many lamps, distance between lamps and distance to glass, lamp type and strength etc) and look for a LED lamp supplier.    Not a silk screen manufacturer.
It's interesting how everyone is dropping the point light theory and moving to LEDs.       Personally I don't think it matters what light source you have if you have a good vacuum.
We all seem to strive for perfection but we have to remember that we are are printing shirts and not building rockets.

I can tell you that a 1k MH is MUCH MUCH better than an array of unfiltered black lights and of 2 400w Halogens when it comes to undercutting and holding detail on fully exposed screens.  I have used the save vacuum top with all 3 options (all built myself) and can hold 55lpi down to the small percentages on my MH, and could barely hold 45lpi to a useable percentage on either of those others.

I think people are moving to LED specifically because it offers extremely quick exposure, not because it offers a gain in detail.  Because it is directional and can be adjusted to prevent hot spots while still being close to the screen (unlike tubes) it also takes up less space and can have storage or drying racks under it.

I would move to LEDs in a heartbeat if it made sense financially for me.  I have having big hot bulbs that have warmup times and take up floorspace etc.

Offline Northland

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 619
Re: Vastex LED Exposure.. Nice unit
« Reply #33 on: September 21, 2014, 09:22:38 AM »
I've been messing around with some LED strip lamps.... with the hope of converting my metal halide exposure unit.
Currently I'm using 5050 SMD that emit 395-405 n/m. I think it will take about $125 of lamps and maybe $50 for a 12 volt power supply.

-- I've observed, it's important to not overdrive the lamps (keep the voltage at 12vdc, that's the rating on strip lamps that cluster 3 to a circuit).
-- My lamps are set on the strip 5/8" apart, so I'm planning on laying the strips 5/8" apart.
-- To build a field suitable to expose a 23 x 31 screen it would take about 1800 lamps (30 meters of strip).
-- I have no idea how far away from the glass to mount the lamps, but a little trial and error should solve that. I'll start about 4 inches away.

My primary goal is to get rid of the start up time required with metal halide.... and the re-strike time if you shut it off.
But, shorter exposure time would be great (especially if the cure is complete on screens with a thicker coating.. like 2x2 on a 120)

Offline jvanick

  • !!!
  • Gonzo Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 2477
Re: Vastex LED Exposure.. Nice unit
« Reply #34 on: September 21, 2014, 10:10:38 AM »
Quote
-- I have no idea how far away from the glass to mount the lamps, but a little trial and error should solve that. I'll start about 4 inches away.

you should be able to use the dispersion angle of the LEDS and a bit of math to figure out the optimal distance to the glass/screen.

*I'm certainly not a math guy, so I can't help you much there.