our S-mesh experience

[mk162]

So we've ordered a few batches of s-mesh statics from Spot Color and I have to say I couldn't be happier with these things.  If you are on the fence about s-mesh, get off it and make the move.  It's seriously changed our print lives.  We get better ink film, better opacity and much better prints overall with s-mesh.

 We started using 180s instead of 155 mesh and it's amazing how much better they are.  We aren't crazy about the 225s yet, we found that WOW printing over an underbase isn't great with these, but I think we'll use them on the next halftone underbase job we need.  We've only just used up 6 of them, so we are still playing around with those.

We are going to start going through all of our traditional mesh screens and converting them into s-mesh.  Again, this 180s especially are amazing. 

[CBCB]

Co-signed! Manual printer here. We have been loving 135LX for everything that needs a flash. 225S has been great for most colours onto light garments. Printer finds it easier to clear the mesh which is a bonus. Less pressure and brighter prints.


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[dirkdiggler]

We use the 150s, 180s 225s and 330s is on the way to me now.  All from Spot Color.  If you are not using these, you are working to hard!  These are that much better!  And Brannon does them RIGHT!

[Nation03]

Agreed. I use nothing but S-mesh from Spot Color. I love the permanent blockout and calked inside of the frames, feels like I have extra protection along the edges. I'm going to try their 305 saati mesh screens next for the wet on wet stuff. 135, 150 and 180 are mainly what I stick to right now. 

[Dottonedan]

Coincidentally, I am getting a 135/53s mesh from Spot Color in couple days. At the same time, I'm also ordering a couple Dynamesh 135/55 and will compare.


I spoke with Joe Clark and he suggested giving the Dynamesh a try (for the same purposes of the S mesh) on his synergy base white. He seemed to think that Dynamesh might work out for the better (with his whites). We will see.

[inkstain]

Have had some newman rollers with Smesh for a while and still have some with regular mesh.  I'm always bummed when I have to use the regular mesh.  Just wish the Smesh was just as strong as the Tmesh or whatever it's called.  Have broken a few Smesh and that's not fun.  Please someone out there make a Smesh that is super strong.  haha dreaming.

[mk162]

We only had one issue when we bumped a screen with the corner of another.  It wasn't bad enough to lose the screen, but we did realize how much more careful you need to be.

It's worth the trade-off though.

I am bummed when we have to print white through a regular mesh screen. 

[alan802]

Bout time

[3Deep]

I've got some Dynamesh screens had them for years now and they are really good screens, don't know why I didn't buy more, but believe it or not these screens are still around 16 and 18 n not bad in my book for these old screens.  I bought some S-mesh awhile back 135,150 and 180's and I'll say they are as good as advertised, gotta give spot color a call and get some from them.

[KevinO]

Regarding the re-stretch from Spot Color, have you been able to get rid of tape with their permanent block out/calked edges?

[TCred]

We use water base from Virus and Amex exclusively with Murakami S Mesh stretched on Shur-lock frames , I have found that anything less than 225 mesh and the ink drips through the screen if we stop the press for even a short time.

It is more of an issue with thin viscosity colours like green, and less so with white but it is an issue.

I've tried using higher mesh counts, but then opacity becomes an issue. It's a conundrum that I have not found an answer for.

[alan802]

We use water base from Virus and Amex exclusively with Murakami S Mesh stretched on Shur-lock frames , I have found that anything less than 225 mesh and the ink drips through the screen if we stop the press for even a short time.

It is more of an issue with thin viscosity colours like green, and less so with white but it is an issue.

I've tried using higher mesh counts, but then opacity becomes an issue. It's a conundrum that I have not found an answer for.

I got an answer but you and the WB boys won't like it

[Rockers]

We use water base from Virus and Amex exclusively with Murakami S Mesh stretched on Shur-lock frames , I have found that anything less than 225 mesh and the ink drips through the screen if we stop the press for even a short time.

It is more of an issue with thin viscosity colours like green, and less so with white but it is an issue.

I've tried using higher mesh counts, but then opacity becomes an issue. It's a conundrum that I have not found an answer for.

I never had that issue. Not on 150-S which is the lowest we go. No discharge dripping. Do you gotsome thick layer of ink sitting on top of the image area?

[TCred]

Yes, it occurs when we stop the press and the screen is flooded to prevent the ink drying in the image.

[TCred]

I got an answer but you and the WB boys won't like it

I'm all ears, there are no rights and wrongs in this game so I am quickly learning.