Author Topic: High density  (Read 2492 times)

Offline noortrd

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High density
« on: November 08, 2017, 07:49:30 AM »
Any good high density emulsion name?


Offline tonypep

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Re: High density
« Reply #1 on: November 08, 2017, 08:00:39 AM »
Cap Film. Multiple coat dry coat apps of most high solids emulsions will do as well

Offline RICK STEFANICK

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Re: High density
« Reply #2 on: November 08, 2017, 08:07:34 AM »
Chromaline fat film.. you can get 100,200,400 and 700 micron thicknesses. TP is a expert on this though so he can guide you thru the coating, exposure and washout process which is critical. Also getting great results with High Density requires choked layers with your art, proper press off contact and the right mesh and micron and ink choices per layer. A good example would be a thinner top layer on a higher mesh so you don't get mesh marks on the final print.
Specializing in shop assessment's, flow and efficiency

Offline tonypep

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Re: High density
« Reply #3 on: November 08, 2017, 08:37:13 AM »
I'll try to comment around noon. Theres a lot to know about this

Offline noortrd

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Re: High density
« Reply #4 on: November 08, 2017, 11:40:42 AM »
Foteco have 58 percent solid any competitor?

Offline ABuffington

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Re: High density
« Reply #5 on: November 27, 2017, 01:45:53 PM »
Murakami Thick Film can provide excellent sharp edges and vertical side walls for better high density ink release and stacked prints that need really sharp square ink corners or highly detailed side by side elements.
You can also coat your own with Aquasol HS. 2:7 yields 350 to 400 micron thicknesss.

Alan Buffington
Murakami Screen USA  - Technical Support and Sales
www.murakamiscreen.com

Offline DannyGruninger

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Re: High density
« Reply #6 on: November 27, 2017, 09:12:17 PM »
I always used cap film until recently tested some Ulano “thick coat” and it has given me awesome results. EOM is super consistent when I measure multiple areas of screen which is what you’ll see with film and it’s been much easier for us to expose/develop then film. I’ve done some 800+ micron thick screens here with this emulsion and can hold a pretty decent line. Overall I struggled with camp film(400-800micron and stacking) compared to the direct coating I’m doing now but your results might be opposite.
« Last Edit: November 27, 2017, 09:18:48 PM by DannyGruninger »
Danny Gruninger
Denver Print House / Lakewood Colorado
https://www.instagram.com/denverprinthouse

Offline noortrd

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Re: High density
« Reply #7 on: November 28, 2017, 05:24:42 AM »
Which is better ulano thick coat or murakami hs2?

Offline mikezincali

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Re: High density
« Reply #8 on: December 24, 2017, 04:55:02 PM »
I'm fairly new to this side of screen making. The smaller shop I used to manage never needed HD. Over the last year at this larger place, I've had decent results with Chromaline Super Phat 200 & 400m, and also Murakami Thick Film 400m. The guy who ran this screen room before me never degreased the screens, but once I started thoroughly degreasing before applying the film we started getting decent results. I apply with Aquasol HVP or SP1400 I'm trying to use up. I'm not convinced I have the process dialed though, anybody have tips on dialing in exposure on 400m screens? I seem to get better images using 6K tri-light vs. LED (STE II)

Offline ABuffington

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Re: High density
« Reply #9 on: January 15, 2018, 01:41:34 PM »
Murakami Thick Film should be adhered with One Pot Sol C, or any of our SBQ emulsions.  Thick film exposes at the same speed as our SBQ emulsions, so matching exposure speeds of film and adhering emulsion can help with clarity of edge and more importantly adhesion.  Basic time on a Metal Halide for both Thick Film or Aquasol HS: 1.5 minutes per 100 microns on a 5k Metal halide with a fresh bulb.  A 400 micron film would be 6 minutes on a 5k metal Halide and about 40 seconds per 100 microns on a strong LED.  Aquasol HS can be coated to any thickness.  Use some baby powder on the emulsion before attaching film to preserve film and prevent surface adhesion to glass.  Really thick HS should be coated 2:2 and dried and then add 3 coats to the print side and dry between each one.  You can push to 2:7 for 400 microns, but drying needs to be with a gentle fan and overnight.

Al
Alan Buffington
Murakami Screen USA  - Technical Support and Sales
www.murakamiscreen.com