Author Topic: Best way to do inside labels and print on back of neck?  (Read 1798 times)

Offline RICK STEFANICK

  • Gonzo Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 1682
Re: Best way to do inside labels and print on back of neck?
« Reply #15 on: May 06, 2019, 11:10:51 AM »
We sold our ASPE here, moving all of our inside tag prints to inkcups pad printing.

Danny why would you make that switch? I have ran the ink cups unit doing neck prints and i don't think the efficiency is there vs. the rapid tag. just curious


Offline ericheartsu

  • Gonzo Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 3159
Re: Best way to do inside labels and print on back of neck?
« Reply #16 on: May 06, 2019, 11:27:29 AM »
Digging up another old thread.

For those of you doing transfer tags what transfer paper are you using and what temp are you pressing at? I have a Stahls hat press I would like to use and I’ve done some testing using Arjo Wiggins X90 paper and One Stroke transfer ink but only poly/cotton and tri-blends I’m getting a heat press mark that is making the shirt shiny where I did the transfer. I’ve tried less heat and I don’t get a full transfer. Same with less pressure.

We only have one auto so I would really like to get this off the press and into someone else’s hands so we can free up the press to print more work while neck tags are being applied.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

what time/temp/pressure are you using?
Night Owls Print Shop
Custom Textile and Flastock Screen Printing www.nightowlsprint.com 281.741.7285

Offline lancasterprinthouse

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 128
Re: Best way to do inside labels and print on back of neck?
« Reply #17 on: May 08, 2019, 06:52:38 PM »
Digging up another old thread.

For those of you doing transfer tags what transfer paper are you using and what temp are you pressing at? I have a Stahls hat press I would like to use and I’ve done some testing using Arjo Wiggins X90 paper and One Stroke transfer ink but only poly/cotton and tri-blends I’m getting a heat press mark that is making the shirt shiny where I did the transfer. I’ve tried less heat and I don’t get a full transfer. Same with less pressure.

We only have one auto so I would really like to get this off the press and into someone else’s hands so we can free up the press to print more work while neck tags are being applied.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

what time/temp/pressure are you using?

I have tried dozens of combinations. Stahls hat press doesn’t have pressure settings, just a knob to turn to adjust pressure bit I’ve tried everything from 270-340 temps, quick hits to longer times, little pressure to full pressure. And every combo possible. I think it’s something with my setup vs the time/temp/pressure. Not sure if it’s my cover sheet, the paper I’m using (tried two different types) or what. Really has me stumped. I don’t have a pillow on my hat press but maybe that would help. What is your setup?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Offline RICK STEFANICK

  • Gonzo Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 1682
Re: Best way to do inside labels and print on back of neck?
« Reply #18 on: May 09, 2019, 02:42:57 PM »
Digging up another old thread.

For those of you doing transfer tags what transfer paper are you using and what temp are you pressing at? I have a Stahls hat press I would like to use and I’ve done some testing using Arjo Wiggins X90 paper and One Stroke transfer ink but only poly/cotton and tri-blends I’m getting a heat press mark that is making the shirt shiny where I did the transfer. I’ve tried less heat and I don’t get a full transfer. Same with less pressure.

We only have one auto so I would really like to get this off the press and into someone else’s hands so we can free up the press to print more work while neck tags are being applied.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

what time/temp/pressure are you using?

I have tried dozens of combinations. Stahls hat press doesn’t have pressure settings, just a knob to turn to adjust pressure bit I’ve tried everything from 270-340 temps, quick hits to longer times, little pressure to full pressure. And every combo possible. I think it’s something with my setup vs the time/temp/pressure. Not sure if it’s my cover sheet, the paper I’m using (tried two different types) or what. Really has me stumped. I don’t have a pillow on my hat press but maybe that would help. What is your setup?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There is a used rapid tag on digitsmith for 3k ..great buy

Offline Alchemink

  • !!!
  • Verified/Junior
  • **
  • Posts: 32
Re: Best way to do inside labels and print on back of neck?
« Reply #19 on: May 10, 2019, 10:15:08 AM »
I'll have to second or third the ASPE RapidTag LP-1
It's absolutely killer for simple tags AND one color koozie prints. 
"There is not a truth existing which I fear...or would wish unknown to the whole world."
- Thomas Jefferson -

Offline Maff

  • !!!
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 316
Re: Best way to do inside labels and print on back of neck?
« Reply #20 on: May 10, 2019, 09:06:32 PM »
Is it leaving a mark only where the transfer paper is? Or the whole heating element leaves a mark?

I've got the black maxx hat press and regret buying everytime I use it. No pressure sensor and no auto open. Wish I just got the hotronix...

You could try putting a piece of fleece material on the bottom platten to give it some more cushion like a pillow. Or some other paper on the top covers the whole platen area. maybe even some shirt material ontop

We do our transfers with low cure inks if possible.

We use ace transfer supply for our paper and powder


Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


Offline lancasterprinthouse

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 128
Best way to do inside labels and print on back of neck?
« Reply #21 on: May 10, 2019, 09:41:16 PM »
Is it leaving a mark only where the transfer paper is? Or the whole heating element leaves a mark?

I've got the black maxx hat press and regret buying everytime I use it. No pressure sensor and no auto open. Wish I just got the hotronix...

You could try putting a piece of fleece material on the bottom platten to give it some more cushion like a pillow. Or some other paper on the top covers the whole platen area. maybe even some shirt material ontop

We do our transfers with low cure inks if possible.

We use ace transfer supply for our paper and powder


Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

It’s where the heating element is. Good idea on the fleece material underneath and shirt material on top. I’m going to give that a shot and see what comes of it.

Yea, the auto open is super nice. Definitely worth the extra money.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Offline IntegriTees

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 165
Re: Best way to do inside labels and print on back of neck?
« Reply #22 on: June 09, 2019, 02:27:19 PM »
I had a rapid tag and found it to be “less” of a machine than I’m used to. Sold it and got the all electric anatol prodigy which is working great.

Offline BP

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 200
Re: Best way to do inside labels and print on back of neck?
« Reply #23 on: June 10, 2019, 09:26:42 AM »
SHIRT HAPPENS!

Offline RICK STEFANICK

  • Gonzo Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 1682
Re: Best way to do inside labels and print on back of neck?
« Reply #24 on: June 10, 2019, 07:53:00 PM »
I had a rapid tag and found it to be “less” of a machine than I’m used to. Sold it and got the all electric anatol prodigy which is working great.

how much are those compared to the rapid tag?

Offline BP

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 200
Re: Best way to do inside labels and print on back of neck?
« Reply #25 on: June 11, 2019, 06:53:58 AM »
Rick, They are $400 each.
SHIRT HAPPENS!

Offline IntegriTees

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 165
Re: Best way to do inside labels and print on back of neck?
« Reply #26 on: June 11, 2019, 11:03:21 AM »
I had a rapid tag and found it to be “less” of a machine than I’m used to. Sold it and got the all electric anatol prodigy which is working great.

how much are those compared to the rapid tag?

I had the very first "all electric" version in the US and I've found through the Anatol tech support that the design was been updated several times since my purchase.  think I paid $12k for it.  luckily, I got $6k for my rapid tag so it was an easy upgrade.