Author Topic: TRADE: LED for 3140  (Read 1480 times)

Online lancasterprinthouse

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TRADE: LED for 3140
« on: May 27, 2019, 05:19:45 PM »
Anybody looking to trade their 3140 for my Workhorse LED? Give me a shout


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Offline Nation03

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Re: TRADE: LED for 3140
« Reply #1 on: June 07, 2019, 02:39:01 PM »
Don't have anything to trade but if you end up wanting to sell the LED unit let me know the price. I'd take a drive out there to pick it up.

Offline CBCB

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Re: TRADE: LED for 3140
« Reply #2 on: June 07, 2019, 11:54:02 PM »
Curious... why?


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Online lancasterprinthouse

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Re: TRADE: LED for 3140
« Reply #3 on: June 08, 2019, 01:28:10 PM »
Curious... why?


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We are primarily a water based shop and the LED doesn’t produce a strong enough stencil without post hardening in the sun.


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Online Frog

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Re: TRADE: LED for 3140
« Reply #4 on: June 08, 2019, 02:28:27 PM »
Curious... why?


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We are primarily a water based shop and the LED doesn’t produce a strong enough stencil without post hardening in the sun.


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This issue has been discussed here, and there have been recommendations for some emulsions that seem to work better than others with LED, though of course, also, not all LED's are created equal.
"It's crackers to slip a rozzer the dropsy in snide"

Online lancasterprinthouse

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Re: TRADE: LED for 3140
« Reply #5 on: June 08, 2019, 02:57:43 PM »
Curious... why?


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We are primarily a water based shop and the LED doesn’t produce a strong enough stencil without post hardening in the sun.


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This issue has been discussed here, and there have been recommendations for some emulsions that seem to work better than others with LED, though of course, also, not all LED's are created equal.

Right. I would trade for a starlight but that’s not going to happen. I read all 300-some comments in the one thread about MH vs. LED. I use T9 and it has helped. Short runs I’m ok. Long runs need a lot of post hardening. Something that’s hard to do in rainy season here.


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Online gotshirtz001

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TRADE: LED for 3140
« Reply #6 on: June 08, 2019, 03:51:44 PM »
^ Team MH here!


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Offline Sbrem

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Re: TRADE: LED for 3140
« Reply #7 on: June 12, 2019, 10:05:05 AM »
We both the Saati 450w a few months ago, and it was suggested we keep the old Violux 5000S MH around for post hardening when needed. So, we expose the the Saati, then post expose with the 5000S.


Steve
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Offline Maff

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Re: TRADE: LED for 3140
« Reply #8 on: June 12, 2019, 11:00:45 AM »
Oh man we have gone through a lot of adjustments to get our Discharge and waterbase screens solid with our LED.

We also have the Saati 450w (ryonet fx) and we have found the best results by Overexposing our screens by almost 2X, to a solid 9-10 on the 21 step calculator.
I have heard of other bigger shops that also overexpose there discharge screens even on a starlight for even longer.

For long runs we also add reclaimable hardener to the screen and post expose for up to 20 min just for added security.
We also add Aqua Block across the top and bottom of the screen where squeegee starts and stops.

It's a lot of extra steps, but we used to struggle to get past 100 shirts without a breakdown on a discharge screen. Now with doing all this we have done a few 500-800 piece discharge orders without a breakdown.   

I think when this unit dies I'll consider switching back to MH exposure though....

Offline 3Deep

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Re: TRADE: LED for 3140
« Reply #9 on: June 12, 2019, 12:30:19 PM »
HXT is a good emulsion for DC/water base ink printing just add some diazo to it and expose a little longer, I've did small run's of 50 to 72 pc without using the diazo I just exposed a little lnoger.
Life is like Kool-Aid, gotta add sugar/hardwork to make it sweet!!

Online lancasterprinthouse

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Re: TRADE: LED for 3140
« Reply #10 on: June 12, 2019, 07:14:18 PM »
Oh man we have gone through a lot of adjustments to get our Discharge and waterbase screens solid with our LED.

We also have the Saati 450w (ryonet fx) and we have found the best results by Overexposing our screens by almost 2X, to a solid 9-10 on the 21 step calculator.
I have heard of other bigger shops that also overexpose there discharge screens even on a starlight for even longer.

For long runs we also add reclaimable hardener to the screen and post expose for up to 20 min just for added security.
We also add Aqua Block across the top and bottom of the screen where squeegee starts and stops.

It's a lot of extra steps, but we used to struggle to get past 100 shirts without a breakdown on a discharge screen. Now with doing all this we have done a few 500-800 piece discharge orders without a breakdown.   

I think when this unit dies I'll consider switching back to MH exposure though....

I’m there with ya. I can’t get long runs of 1,000+ out of it but it takes over exposing and then sitting in the sun for an hour or two. Not a problem most of the time but if we’re getting a job setup and find out there’s an error on the screen and it just so happens to be raining, forget about it.


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Offline markdhl

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Re: TRADE: LED for 3140
« Reply #11 on: June 13, 2019, 05:49:54 AM »
Refurbished and factory warrantied Olite olec metal halide is the best light source.  We also stock the 450 LED saati that was mentioned. Emailk or call me with questions.


This is a topic i discuss often with Richard Greaves and yes for you the MH is the best choice.

Mark Diehl
Douthitt Corporation
email [email protected]
phone direct 313 515 8635

Offline Sbrem

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Re: TRADE: LED for 3140
« Reply #12 on: June 13, 2019, 11:05:20 AM »
I imagine that over the next year or two that the emulsion manufacturers will be addressing that problem...

Steve
I made a mistake once; I thought I was wrong about something; I wasn't

Offline Lizard

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Re: TRADE: LED for 3140
« Reply #13 on: June 19, 2019, 10:18:36 PM »
I may be interested.  Give me a call when you have time.
Toby
 Shirt Lizard Charlotte, NC 704-521-5225

Offline ABuffington

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Re: TRADE: LED for 3140
« Reply #14 on: June 20, 2019, 12:07:19 PM »
Emulsion has a maximum sensitivity and needs to be in balance to other components.  We can make it resist water or solvents, and (harder)tweak it to make co solvent resistance. How you make your screens is crucial, in the end if you don't apply enough energy to the sensitizer during exposure you wind up with a partially cross linked stencil.  If there are un cross linked components, they are easily affected by water and will melt and breakdown. Quite often we fall into the trap of inspecting screens with our eyes and not a proven recipe, it looks good, has a great image, but breaks down with water base or discharge or HSA.  The recipe isn't about the image, it's about the quality of the exposure first and then the image next.  They are two very different areas of screen making.   So even with overexposure using an LED, you are applying a narrow wave length of the available UV Spectrum, whereas with MH you can get multi spectral bulbs that have more wavelengths at a much higher wattage at the source.  I can get good results with LED and post exposure with T9, but hit that same screen with an 8k Olite or a Tri Light 6k, a new bulb, proper exposure time (right up to over exposure)  and it can print long runs without hardeners and T9 will reclaim like butter.  Water base screens require an entirely different screen recipe than what you would use for plastisol.  Extra prep, longer dry times before exposure and before press set up, maximum high wattage multi spectral light, proper EOM, all help and it does require a bit more effort in screen making.  I can get great screens from LED, and the speed of image and exposure helps high volume shops, so you can make this work with LED, it just takes post exposure and the sun is the best if available.  Just realize there are stronger lamps that can make stronger screens, but either way can achieve success, the key is focus on getting maximum cross linked exposure.
Alan Buffington
Murakami Screen USA  - Technical Support and Sales
www.murakamiscreen.com