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« Last post by Atownsend on April 08, 2024, 11:51:17 AM »
The output is unique, but the reference materials are in the public domain I’d imagine.
The output is unique, but the reference materials are searchable by Google I’d imagine.
FTFY
I cant find stupid memes that I remember from just a couple years ago, so im not sure how likely that is when the dataset is so large. Maybe I just suck at search. I dont see how its much different that how a human artist operates. Very little in this world is actually original. All of the artists I've have worked with in the past have their process. One guy I worked with would go to Walmart, pose some action figures how and then redraw them adding fonts and text styles. Theres almost always a reference image involved. Fact is most designers I come across can't or wont produce high quality photo realistic graphics. Most don't have the skillset, and so this fills a lot of the gap. There are exceptions, no doubt. Brant has a killer art dept. and I dont think this is is really competitive with that. Its still clipart vs hand drawn. With that being said we're still putting in a lot of work, and this particular design and print is going to be much different than the original output from AI. Its not as simple as copy / paste. Its just a tool in the toolbox, you still need to be very proficient in the raster / vector programs. I don't that its taking away the artists skill as much as its allowing lesser skilled or talented people to come up a bit. We can disagree, but I think its a really cool tool thats only going to continue to advance.
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« Last post by Dottonedan on April 08, 2024, 09:28:11 AM »
The hand was my drawback also. And never preferring a DTG or a DTF over screen print. If they both went away, I’d be fine with it. But sales are strong for people asking for DTF for us. But when they don’t ask for it, and the quantity and color count allows, we chose screen print.
Having said that, I’ve received samples and heat presses in house and there can be a drastic difference from supplier to supplier. We love what we get from our current supplier. Uddercolor.com. He’s a meticulous printer as well. We do make use of halftones in the DTF where we can and that also helps break up the hand.
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« Last post by OhNoPrinting on April 08, 2024, 09:25:21 AM »
Its (probably) rebranded discharge ink with white pigments mixed into - activator includes Aminoiminomethansulfinsäure but is Formaldehyd-free.
I send an eMail to the supplier to ask what I can check.
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« Last post by Atownsend on April 08, 2024, 09:20:26 AM »
Came across this over the weekend in my YT feed. Correlation doesn't imply causation they say... but damn. Cant help but feel bad for this guy regardless. Make sure to have ventilation and PPE if you're going to mess with this stuff. Should be common sense. If you're not going to use PPE, just outsource the transfers. Not worth the risk. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rBi9uAT8EHo
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« Last post by OhNoPrinting on April 08, 2024, 08:45:07 AM »
I guess normal wear is ok, but i don´t need to stretch too much to see these cracks..
The ink is from a local distributor - my guess is, he is rebranding it and it could be AMEX MANOUKIAN, but that is really just a guess and i don´t want to write, so i don´t bad mouth anybody because i can print :-)
Also the ink might just be old? I read, that waterbased ink gets funky?
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Just pressed a sample from the Quatro that my M&R rep left. I'm pretty impressed by the hand. Anyone else tried prints off it?
can you describe it please?
thanx,
pj
It feels like a heat pressed screen printed image. Zero plastic feel, no crinkle. I stretched the large section of the print and no sign of splitting. I got a lot of samples in from other companies and none of them come close to this. Next I'll bring it home and throw it in the wash with every load to see how it holds up. I pressed it onto a G500, I have one more sample and might put it on a 3001. I would imagine you can get samples from M&R, I'd recommend it if you're looking at these machines.
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« Last post by Maxie on April 08, 2024, 02:05:40 AM »
Not all DTF is the same, like screen printing, one printer will get a soft smooth finish, another thick and rough
Depends a lot on the ink and TPU glue. Also how you apply it and the garment.
I don't do a second hit in the press, I put the garments through my oven. This dulls them a bit and the ink seems to melt into the fabric giving a much softer feel and amazing wash tests.
We have a heavy weight cotton sweatshirt that print really well with DTF. A full front on a TS does I agree feel like plastic. It's amazing for pocket prints, hats, sleeves, small orders with lots of colors.
If you want to be a artist stick with printing, if you want to make money add DTF. Just be careful what you buy, there is a lot of junk on the market.
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« Last post by Rockers on April 07, 2024, 08:34:07 PM »
well, after I couldn´t get super reliable white with discharge, i switched to waterbased ink. Was a bit nervous about opacity, but: preflashed the shirt and first stroke already very nice white, then flash, print again. I flash again to take the shirt savely from the pallet to a drying rack and later to send them all in one go through the conveyor dryer.
I let the shirts go 2 times, each 160 degree C for around 1.20 min. After that I stretched it: cracking. Decided to send them two more times: this run with 180 degree C and 1.20min. still the ink cracks. Pressed them in a last effort with the heat press for 30 sec at 160 degree. still cracking. (did 99 sec on a test-shirt: still same outcome)
I read that I can:
- overheat the ink (but after 2 runs in the dryer it was already cracking?)
- use too much ink?
- not getting the ink deep enough? (i already used a 43t and a lot of force)
Is there anything else I can try now? or is it learning experience and I have to do it again?
What ink are you using? Permaset?
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« Last post by Rockers on April 07, 2024, 08:28:24 PM »
so.. gave it another try. Mixed results again.
Look at this photo:
Now the bummer is:
the right one I printed with discharge ink after i mixed the ink and left it for 2 hours to rest. I took it from the pallet directly to the conveyor dryer for 3 runs each 1.20 minute / 160 degree C. Came out super vintagey.
The left one I did a day later with the same ink still in the same screen. Same shirt brand. But this time: i flashed it three time for each 3 seconds and ... voilá: white.
I guess I will contact the seller of the ink and ask for advice on how long the ink should "rest" and if this is a bug or feature :-)
What ink are you using?
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« Last post by Frog on April 07, 2024, 06:11:45 PM »
I have jumped into and use a lot of DTF, and every one of the jobs has been well recieved. That said, because of its hand, it is better suited for fleece and heavier garments, and with designs containing a generous amount of empty space. If I have a hand in creating or tweaking the art for a DTF job, I try to follow Colin Chapman's philosophy “Simplify, then add lightness.”
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