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screen printing => General Screen Printing => Topic started by: BrazosDesigns on August 09, 2018, 01:38:58 PM
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HI all,
Doing my neighbor a favor. They bought 50 Adidas Estrada 18 soccer jerseys for me to screen print their logo and put numbers on back. The jersey package has information about screen printing - recommended to not exceed 248 degrees for direct print or 302 for transfer. These are navy blue uniforms and lime shock uniforms, each with white accents.
Is it ok to use Wilflex top score white, double hit, and then top coat part of it with another accent color in Rio? Can I run it through at 300?
Or, should I use my Rio top color, White top score and make a transfer, use transfer powder, and then just do a transfer?
Also, what vinyl would you recommend for the back of these jerseys? We'll just be using white for the numbers.
Any help is greatly appreciated..
Thanks!
Darren
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I would do transfers. and just outsource to take out the guesswork.
edited cause you asked about transfers...duh.
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If your afraid of over heating you can get some low temp inks, One stoke has a great inks for just the stuff your printing on check them out www.onestrokeinks.com (http://www.onestrokeinks.com) look at the hybrid,NP Dry fit, but yeah transfers is also a good idea if your unsure of direct printing.
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all I know is of all the companies they cover there a$$ the most with a warning sheet packed with every soccer shirt about printing, luckily Ive only ever done dark ink on light shirts
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HI all,
Doing my neighbor a favor. They bought 50 Adidas Estrada 18 soccer jerseys for me to screen print their logo and put numbers on back. The jersey package has information about screen printing - recommended to not exceed 248 degrees for direct print or 302 for transfer. These are navy blue uniforms and lime shock uniforms, each with white accents.
Is it ok to use Wilflex top score white, double hit, and then top coat part of it with another accent color in Rio? Can I run it through at 300?
Or, should I use my Rio top color, White top score and make a transfer, use transfer powder, and then just do a transfer?
Also, what vinyl would you recommend for the back of these jerseys? We'll just be using white for the numbers.
Any help is greatly appreciated..
Thanks!
Darren
I would think that if the manufacturer says no more than 248, printing at 300 would be an issue. . .
pierre
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Like others, I would seek the advice from one of the transfer companies. A poly ink "should" work on the back, but you really need to have one or two to test with. That's what you get for being nice, LOL
Steve
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Thanks for the info so far.....keep it coming! I like direct printing on Sportek posicharge (easy to print) but I have had more inquiries for Adidas and Nike. Expensive to replace!
Regarding vinyl numbering on back - what vinyl would you recommend? We have been using Siser. I wouldn't mind something a bit thicker, more durable feeling, though.
Thanks!
Darren
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Printed those exact ones 999999999 times. Rutland Super Poly White or Wilflex top score white, regular plastisol for colors on top. Dryer at 360, speed at 28 (sprint 2000) NEVER AN ISSUE FOR ME NEVER!
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Risk versus reward is a factor.....Probably some level of risk involved with little reward.....My friend's store sells Adidas uniform so I know they can be printed, usually without issue, however, I also know that sometimes it does not work.....Not only are they expensive to replace sometimes inventory is near impossible to get at times of the year...Good luck....
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Thanks for the info so far.....keep it coming! I like direct printing on Sportek posicharge (easy to print) but I have had more inquiries for Adidas and Nike. Expensive to replace!
Regarding vinyl numbering on back - what vinyl would you recommend? We have been using Siser. I wouldn't mind something a bit thicker, more durable feeling, though.
Thanks!
Darren
Stahls classic Thermo Film would fit the bill.
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to add to what Frog said Thermo Grip or Gorilla Grip also from stahls
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to add to what Frog said Thermo Grip or Gorilla Grip also from stahls
Thermo Grip is the "Thermo Film" for nylon. I see fewer and fewer nylon jerseys nowadays.
Gorilla Grip is thinner, stretchier, and also good for nylon, especially ballistic stuff like nice bags. Really difficult for detailed cad-cut because of a non-sticky carrier.
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I think the guys at Garston know a lot about screen printing and can usually recommend some great items depending on the type of substrate or fabric you're using. They've got a ton of ink choices like Wiflex, Union, and Nazdar too.
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Got the order printed last week and forgot to update this post:
Order done with great success.
Top Score White - PFPF through a 125mesh (regular, not the LC - have a quart sample of LC on the way, though)
Top prints were Rio mixed to 375U for lime shock and another mixed to Navy blue through a 200mesh
Smooth as butter with almost no hand - which my customers love, compared to the other print shop.
Back numbers with white Siser CadFlex. I do look forward to try the Stahl's version, but was very impressed with CadFlex. Was able to order and get it the next day from a Houston distributor.
I appreciate all the responses and wisdom....that's what we're here for!
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Dirkdiggler does this ALOT, follow his lead ;D ;D
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Dirkdiggler does this ALOT, follow his lead ;D ;D
if I set my sprint 3000 (10' of heat) at 360 and 28 ( not sure if this is time or belt speed) that would torch the shirt.
We do use Top score and performance white for the nasty stuff our times /temp are at 285* and 52 sec dwell time
So testing is required for you setup
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Dirkdiggler does this ALOT, follow his lead ;D ;D
if I set my sprint 3000 (10' of heat) at 360 and 28 ( not sure if this is time or belt speed) that would torch the shirt.
We do use Top score and performance white for the nasty stuff our times /temp are at 285* and 52 sec dwell time
So testing is required for you setup
Are you also running a Sprint 2000 dryer?