TSB
screen printing => Screen Making => Topic started by: AAMike on January 15, 2018, 03:01:56 PM
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We have went through several trials of CCI emulsion for discharge printing. Used hardener, post expose and every trick in the book. What emulsion can we use that is bullet proof? Preferably an emulsion from Source One.
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we use Saati PHU2.
we were able to dial it in, so that as long as we have it exposed at our set settings, and screens are post exposed, we can do thousands of prints, with no issues.
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I have used the Saati PHU in the past. Great emulsion.
Currently using Murakami T9 with Diazo added for detail. Amazing detail....
Like Eric, With proper settings and post exposure we can run like a champ!
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Yup, PHU 2 here as well. You can easily do thousands without worry as long as you do proper prep. It is our go to for a few years now. Our sample T9 gallon arrived today. Looking forward to testing next week.
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We are still using Murakami SP-1400 for discharge. We have ST and the Starlight next to it, it's important to exposure right away after printing - wouldn't be an issue for you since it's an STE. Reason being the water based inkjet ink doesn't absorb at all so it pools and can get messy within a few minutes. Haven't had a problem with halftones if you expose right away though.
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Thanks all. Ordered some Saati PHU2 today and will start trying to get an exposure nailed on our 230 mesh.
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Thanks all. Ordered some Saati PHU2 today and will start trying to get an exposure nailed on our 230 mesh.
Depending on the model of your unit (and when it was built), you might have to add in the diazo. We do, to get some crisper details, but ours is also an earlier model, and from what i understand, possibly not operating on the correct UV wavelength.
However, with that being said, we are still able to image screens without an issue 95% of the time.
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We don't have the STE Just a ST, but we use Murakami SP-1400.
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Thanks all. Ordered some Saati PHU2 today and will start trying to get an exposure nailed on our 230 mesh.
Depending on the model of your unit (and when it was built), you might have to add in the diazo. We do, to get some crisper details, but ours is also an earlier model, and from what i understand, possibly not operating on the correct UV wavelength.
However, with that being said, we are still able to image screens without an issue 95% of the time.
They were all built with the same wave length LEDs from the start, just the supplier changed. Even the ones with the bar vs the panel are the same wavelength.
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We use Chromaline CP-TEX. Day in day out it works for us and we run 90% discharge inks. The product require no post exposure and is 64.08 a gallon from source one. I think the saati product may be superior on long runs . Along run for us is 2000 units
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Thanks all. Ordered some Saati PHU2 today and will start trying to get an exposure nailed on our 230 mesh.
Depending on the model of your unit (and when it was built), you might have to add in the diazo. We do, to get some crisper details, but ours is also an earlier model, and from what i understand, possibly not operating on the correct UV wavelength.
However, with that being said, we are still able to image screens without an issue 95% of the time.
They were all built with the same wave length LEDs from the start, just the supplier changed. Even the ones with the bar vs the panel are the same wavelength.
but was that the correct wavelength for the saati emulsion? Saati told me it's not.
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That may be why they made the PHU2.
I know Saati did a study on wavelength and penetration power. It said that the 405 nm wavelength was superior for screen exposure penetration for waterbase/discharge. The article never stated what frequency their emulsions crosslinked at though. Just that in their study 405 was best...
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We are still using Murakami SP-1400 for discharge. We have ST and the Starlight next to it, it's important to exposure right away after printing - wouldn't be an issue for you since it's an STE. Reason being the water based inkjet ink doesn't absorb at all so it pools and can get messy within a few minutes. Haven't had a problem with halftones if you expose right away though.
We were using 1400 but had stepping issues and pooling. Switched over to kiwo multitex - distributor recommended - and it’s working great. Works for discharge / wb, not super expensive
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We received the PHU2. Should we coat 2 and 2? Also, any tips on prep would be appreciated.
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Do test coating 1/1,1/2,2/1,2/2 etc and then expose a design that will allow you to test different parts of your screen for proper eom.
Go with the coating technique that proves the best for you.
When I used the PHU I coated my 150s 2/1 with a monster max scoop coater and everything higher 1/1.
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Do test coating 1/1,1/2,2/1,2/2 etc and then expose a design that will allow you to test different parts of your screen for proper eom.
Go with the coating technique that proves the best for you.
When I used the PHU I coated my 150s 2/1 with a monster max scoop coater and everything higher 1/1.
Generally, doesn't one need more strokes to coat higher mesh counts since the mesh naturally holds less?
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Will do. Thanks fellas.
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Do test coating 1/1,1/2,2/1,2/2 etc and then expose a design that will allow you to test different parts of your screen for proper eom.
Go with the coating technique that proves the best for you.
When I used the PHU I coated my 150s 2/1 with a monster max scoop coater and everything higher 1/1.
Generally, doesn't one need more strokes to coat higher mesh counts since the mesh naturally holds less?
With thinner emulsions yes. That has been my experience.
Both the PHU and the T9 are thicker bodied. So if I tried to go 2/1 I would be printing HD sim process ;)