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screen printing => Equipment => Topic started by: ffokazak on March 20, 2019, 01:09:12 PM
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Been thinking about doing this for a while, and interested to see if anyone has come up with a system using dial indicators?
I remember there was a shur-loc product that I saw ( or maybe action...) but I think it used four corners.
Im thinking of using the squeegee choppers instead of the flood, ( CHIIID doesnt lift the pallets, so it would have to be the squeegee)
Anyways thought I would check!
Cheers
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Yes and it is a fantastic idea. We do it on all installs.
Step #1 build a fixture that hooks to a head and fans out to each pallet corner
Step #2 manually level one pallet to the head using conventional leveling scheme
Step #3 place fixture on the head
Step #4 raise pallets
Step #5 zero out all dial indicators
Step #6 bring each pallet around the the same spot and bring indicators to as close to zero as possible
Remember they are crazy accurate so don’t get to crazy on exactly 0.000
Common mistakes: Do not tighten any leveling bolt until all indicators equal 0. If you move one corner to zero and tighten down that nut, you will then bend warp all the others corners. Make sure the pallet is level on its own without being forced into level.
Hope this helps
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I've been thinking about this as well. Action used to make something but they stopped making it.
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I thought about using a flood bar but only the top extruded part, attach a dial indicator off each end. Put the flood bar in and sweep the indicators back and forth. That would bring the pallet inline on one plane, I dont know if it would be good enough for the side to side tho.
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Been thinking about doing this for a while, and interested to see if anyone has come up with a system using dial indicators?
I remember there was a shur-loc product that I saw ( or maybe action...) but I think it used four corners.
Im thinking of using the squeegee choppers instead of the flood, ( CHIIID doesnt lift the pallets, so it would have to be the squeegee)
Anyways thought I would check!
Cheers
stretch devises makes the one most larger shops once had. Heres a link
http://www.stretchdevices.com/loc-gauge-level-contact-gauge-video (http://www.stretchdevices.com/loc-gauge-level-contact-gauge-video)
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Yeah Ideally I would use the flood bar, but on my press the platens stay down.
I don't see a problem with the squeegees being the reference to the pallet... And for me the only really option as I can manually extend them at both the front of the pallet and the rear. If I max them out, then in theory they should be consistent. Making sure they are all at zero degrees of course.
I guess as well, it would be as easy as unclamping a squeegee bar ( with my dial indicators on it) and moving it to each head after all the boards are level , to check the individual heads parallel...
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I think dial indicators are overkill for a process that doesn't need to be that exact. Press registration...that needs to be spot on. platen level, that can have a lot more play than .001" like I like the arms to be set to.
I personally think it's the wrong tool for the job. That being said though, if you use them and it works for you...great.
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I have had a L.O.C Gauge from Stretch Devices for the past 15 years and there is no better way to level platens/Heads!
PS the last 3 new presses that I was a part of new. After the M&R tech where done I re-leveled the platens.
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Just be sure to moderate the "elbow on the pallet" tendencies!
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So I just did a quick and dirty bracket, clamped them onto the squeegee 1" tube, and gave that a shot.
I could also use the flood bar method, as a rough guide to show me where the boards were, at the same time as the dial indicators. ( Pro tip, take off the flood bar before cycling your press... They are juuuust above the pallet and if you have one that is higher, it will rip that off I'm sure haha)
Yes, you can certainly get very precise with this method.
I like it, it gives you another measurement that is more quantifiable than the straight flood bar method.
One of the things that I love about the CHIIID is you cannot freewheel the platens, so there is no knucklehead press ops knocking it out of level... That is offset with our hothead, which I notice over time that the platens will lose level from the top of the pallet to the bottom, they get knocked out of parallel a bit more ( Resulting is registration issues up/down, not left or right. )
Overall I think the dial indicators are a good way to really fine tune the press, and I will invest more time into an actual Jig which holds the indicators in the squeegee clamps!
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I like the dial indicators for good reason. Yes as Brad their resolution is certainly over kill but that is not the purpose for them in this case, its more for a visual confirmation of where things are. What I mean is, if I come up with an easy to use system that uses indicators then i can easily train anybody to use the same system to level the platens, otherwise as we do it now it is based off of mostly feel. My final leveling of a platen is different than what the other guy might decide is level. With indicators its simple, put the needle at zero or close to it and that is good to go, if it moves after you tighten bolts then you see that clearly and can adjust. Obviously you should purchase cheapo indicators at the lowest resolution possible, no need for a starret tenth indicators here.
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Here's on a friend of mine had made
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Just use the flood bar method. No sense in getting it exact with dial indicators when your garment/ platen paper with fuzz will never be perfect.
If you get your press level, and your head level, then your flood bar will be level from front to back.
Use same head with flood bar to level all pallets.
Then use one pallet and go around and make sure each screen holder set for each heads off contact is the same.
We had an M&R Tech install our G3, we've been using it for 2 years so far and just now decided to go re-level everything. Some of them had a little more off contact than they should of, but the press still printed great.
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Every shop is different. It's all about taking out variables that can ultimately effect quality and down time. Personally for me the floodbar way is good enough. The guy that built the guage in the photo actually spends weekends in his shop leveling pallets drinking Tito's and beer. I think that's his OCD hobby. He printed a shirt that says I LOVE LEVEL PALLETS.
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Yeah I agree... It didn't take any extra time, but the press is that much more calibrated. I don't see why you wouldn't want that...
Our press does digital adjustments on pressure, and consistently across the press now we can clear s mesh at 18% pressure, WAY down from the previous 35% we were running before. Don't get me wrong at 35% the whites were perfect, smooth, and bright. But at 18% it is that much more smooth....
Im all about efficiency.... I don't want to spend my weekends levelling boards. Id rather be out enjoying my life. If I can do a better job, for no extra time, that is a win in my books.
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I've been thinking about this as well. Action used to make something but they stopped making it.
You’ll have yours soon and it works well
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While we're on the topic. I know of the flood bar method, but was wondering if your print head is slightly off on the level, should you make your floodbar equally as off to be in plain with the printhead? Probably need an entirely different thread and photos for this, but I threw a level on my printhead yesterday and noticed the bubble was slightly over to the right and was thinking when I go to check parallel I should set my flood bar also slightly to the right? Everything is printing fine for now but I'm just trying to get a better idea of how I should do this when the time comes.
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What type of press do you have?
Can you post a picture of which way you have your level on the print head? Longways down the tube going to the center, or left to right?
Might want to start with the base of the press and make sure its level first.
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What type of press do you have?
Can you post a picture of which way you have your level on the print head? Longways down the tube going to the center, or left to right?
Might want to start with the base of the press and make sure its level first.
M&R Diamondback S. Level was left to right when it was slightly off. When I put it down the tube it was perfectly level. When I have a screen clamped in and put the level on the frame left to right it's perfectly level as well so I guess that has to do with the screen hangers. However, when I place the level on the flood bar and make it level, it looks like one side of the pallets is a littler higher on each pallet consistently, which is leading me to believe that I did something wrong or I'm missing something. I don't plan on making any adjustments soon since it was installed last month but I just wanted to get familiar with the process.
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I would actually recommend digital dial indicators as I have suggested to Action a long time ago. Makes reading the dial indicator so much easier.
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Yes and it is a fantastic idea. We do it on all installs.
Step #1 build a fixture that hooks to a head and fans out to each pallet corner
Step #2 manually level one pallet to the head using conventional leveling scheme
Step #3 place fixture on the head
Step #4 raise pallets
Step #5 zero out all dial indicators
Step #6 bring each pallet around the the same spot and bring indicators to as close to zero as possible
Remember they are crazy accurate so don’t get to crazy on exactly 0.000
Common mistakes: Do not tighten any leveling bolt until all indicators equal 0. If you move one corner to zero and tighten down that nut, you will then bend warp all the others corners. Make sure the pallet is level on its own without being forced into level.
Hope this helps
Would you be so kind sharing a photo of your construction please. Would love to visualize it.
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This is my homemade measure.
I clamp it onto the head so if I slide the head backwards and forwards I can measure the height front to back and if I turn the pallets I can measure all the pallets side to side or just measure in the middle.
The measure is a 3/8 threaded arm with two nuts so I can adjust it up and down.
The digital measure is from Harbour Freight.
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Anyone have a video of leveling Platens?
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Anyone have a video of leveling Platens?
I think Dave Filip at Bimmridder apparel may have one. He has a custom made set up for doing that. He is no longer active here but loves to help out and advise other printers,you will find him to be a wealth of accurate information.you can reach him at 319.364.3479