TSB
screen printing => General Screen Printing => Topic started by: Gilligan on August 15, 2019, 01:19:48 PM
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So, I have to redo a shirt someone else has done in the past (Hi Tom :D ).
I've tried to print halftone bases in the past and wasn't pleased with the results.
Basically, I lose matte down and then the top print comes out fuzzy.
What am I doing wrong? Super vague right? :)
FYI, I can usually get an amazing white print that I've been VERY happy with. We use all S mesh, Joe's Synergy inks and Union Ultrasoft for top colors.
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Use a flattener screen after the flash.
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I'm not opposed to that, but there has to be a "proper" way to do this.
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When we do a halftone base we use a 225s or even a 180s. I find that with a halftone UB it's a lot harder to get moire, so don't worry too much about the rules...just make sure you can hold the dot.
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It's from an older technique where mostly the only solid white base was where it's white. For instance, to underbase a yellow, in PS, we would convert the yellow to a grayscale, then invert it; yellow converts to a 20% gray, use an 80% base under it; Royal Blue converts to 85%, use a 15% base under it. It's not quite that simple, as adjustments are needed depending on the image, but that's the crux of it. It does work, and makes for a softer hand when the base isn't all solids.
Steve
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Right, buy my matte down (or lack of) is leaving me with a fuzzy/crusty print. :(
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Gilligan, I don't know what white you are using, but have you ever tried modifying with up to 5% curable reducer?
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Gilligan, I don't know what white you are using, but have you ever tried modifying with up to 5% curable reducer?
Joe Clarke's Synergy inks.
I typically get a pretty good matte down with it.
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I think that it is ink transfer problem. Off contact distance, screen tension, squeegee duro, pressure, angle, and speed. You know all this already. I am just suggesting things to be looked at. You'll figure it out.