ust sent me a vector file as requested (.ai) that just has the jpeg inserted in it..
Clark -what mesh/lpi was your black? I like the shadows, that is freakin smurf. . .
some here might recognize the characters . . .
printed this yesterday. Not as crisp as some others (neither is the photo), but still pretty nice.
Dan separated, need one minor tweak and it was ready. Setup time about 30 min with that one adjustment. One of the easier setups for a pretty demanding customer.
some here might recognize the characters . . .
printed this yesterday. Not as crisp as some others (neither is the photo), but still pretty nice.
Dan separated, need one minor tweak and it was ready. Setup time about 30 min with that one adjustment. One of the easier setups for a pretty demanding customer.
Just saw this. Nice!
You printing for Valve directly or some other shirt distributor?
somebody else. This was a proof which turns out Valve did not approve. After we printed it, they told my customer that they granted an exclusive license to somebody else, so my customer is out separation and sampling fees. Kinda sucks . . . They are pretty hard to work with, everything goes through several revisions before it's approved.
Dreamcatcher design -- plastisol on discharge
([url]http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/9823/dreamcatchera.jpg[/url])
how about adding some of these to the gallery?
([url]http://i477.photobucket.com/albums/rr132/fed369/Friday-Damn.gif?t=1242194988[/url])
What would you do if they didn't pay?
I know what I'd do...not a damn thing! Those are some hard guys.
Another fine print by they way. How did the 272N do for the underbase? Were you able to clear the stencil with one stroke?
What would you do if they didn't pay?
I know what I'd do...not a damn thing! Those are some hard guys.
Another fine print by they way. How did the 272N do for the underbase? Were you able to clear the stencil with one stroke?
What would you do if they didn't pay?
I know what I'd do...not a damn thing! Those are some hard guys.
Another fine print by they way. How did the 272N do for the underbase? Were you able to clear the stencil with one stroke?
Thats a good question. How much did you cut the Quick White?
Nice Brandt.
BTW, where do you store your images on the web. I tried to see them at work, but the work filters were blocking the images. I was able to see text only. Even when I tried to copy and paste links, the web site was blocked :o
Most of the time I use my own site, but sometimes I'm lazy and post em from my Facebook.
Thanks guys!
I see lot of you print thru 305's and I have tried printing thru them on manual and auto and not got good results. I going to say one fact is my exposure unit, tubes instead of point light and I don't get a great screen to work with. Anyone got any screen coating and and bruning tips for me on that high of a mesh ct. Oh and that glove looks great!!!
Darryl
I see lot of you print thru 305's and I have tried printing thru them on manual and auto and not got good results. I going to say one fact is my exposure unit, tubes instead of point light and I don't get a great screen to work with. Anyone got any screen coating and and bruning tips for me on that high of a mesh ct. Oh and that glove looks great!!!
Darryl
What would you do if they didn't pay?
I know what I'd do...not a damn thing! Those are some hard guys.
Another fine print by they way. How did the 272N do for the underbase? Were you able to clear the stencil with one stroke?
Thats a good question. How much did you cut the Quick White?
Added 12-15% soft hand reducer to the quick. That's pretty much our standard sim underbase.
Thanks for putting that up Dan. BTW both shirts are black. The uncured shirt reacted to the camera flash. If you look carefully at both shirts you may wonder how the heck do you register that? Well we could have tried to line up to the gray type but that could unweildy and more time consuming. So a composite underbase was made and printed in black plastisol and flashed. Lined it up with no tweaks and ran it (the "registration screen" was of course removed) Just shipped today 1,000 pcs zero misprints. When you do this right I swear its less hassle than a plastisol with flashing. Runs faster as well.
Nice shirts......But I would have a little explanation of how many colours and any special techniques used....So an "end user" that knows "diddly squat"
Damn, no 2XL's unfortunately. And these particular blanks run small.
Maybe it was just the 80's model robots, but the one I had spit smoke out of it's mouth when it
walked. You put this weird solution in the back of it's head.
I do really like the idea of including the printing steps on the shirts. I'll have to do that one day.
I think I'm make that my "thing" now. My hidden characters.
How do you like my tortoise? I had to slip one in. I think I'm make that my "thing" now. My hidden characters.
Yep. That Dan is a good'n. He does good work. What? oh, you mean "me". Oh, gee williekers. Thanks!
The printer does great printing also. Can't forget that. Takes a good printer to print good art and seps and make them look good on the shirt. I'm glad you allowed me to run with a sepia look also. I know that was outside of the norm. BRIGHT COLORS! BRIGHT COLORS! ;D[
How do you like my tortoise? I had to slip one in. I think I'm make that my "thing" now. My hidden characters.
In sim process work we always used to say "You're only as good as your underbase." These are excellent demonstrations of this.
Nice work Pierre.
Here's a WB print we did a while back, I thought it turned out cool because the grain of the fabric shows through the transparent ink.
Here's a WB print we did a while back, I thought it turned out cool because the grain of the fabric shows through the transparent ink.
now that is COOL! Or should I say cold, very cold? ABSOLUTE ZERO cold?
Here's a WB print we did a while back, I thought it turned out cool because the grain of the fabric shows through the transparent ink.
([url]http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/4640/img1146za.jpg[/url])
QuoteI think I'm make that my "thing" now. My hidden characters.
Just no GAY MICE please! ;D
some prints from last few weeks. The images are pretty crappy, they look better in person. 'was actually contemplating sending some to the competition, but the art provided did not have enough detail.
pierre
Dan, I'll have to say you losing your old job may have been a blessing, it seems you are busy as ever, and your work and the printers that print it WOW!!! is all I can say. I remember the bike and truck you did for me printed like a dream.
QuoteDan, I'll have to say you losing your old job may have been a blessing, it seems you are busy as ever, and your work and the printers that print it WOW!!! is all I can say. I remember the bike and truck you did for me printed like a dream.
It sure was a blessing. Been happier ever since they tossed me out of the Kingdom and look at all of the new friends I've met along the way. :)
QuoteDan, I'll have to say you losing your old job may have been a blessing, it seems you are busy as ever, and your work and the printers that print it WOW!!! is all I can say. I remember the bike and truck you did for me printed like a dream.
It sure was a blessing. Been happier ever since they tossed me out of the Kingdom and look at all of the new friends I've met along the way. :)
Friends? What friends? Anybody here a friend of Dan's? ;D
I just paid Rick Roth to teach us the secrets to printing over seams. This was the result. It is not perfect, but damn, that looks nice. Make sure you check out the image in full size, the thumbnail makes it look worse . . .
pierre
I just paid Rick Roth to teach us the secrets to printing over seams. This was the result. It is not perfect, but damn, that looks nice. Make sure you check out the image in full size, the thumbnail makes it look worse . . .
pierre
Neoprene foam under the shirt?
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That is weird, will not attach. Oh well, anyone have ideas to what I am doing wrong?
Mark
Here is some kinda recent stuff from us:
([url]http://www.graphicdisorder.com/gallery/uploads/Silkscreening/SAM_0362.jpg[/url])
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([url]http://www.graphicdisorder.com/gallery/uploads/Silkscreening/SAM_0305.jpg[/url])
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([url]http://www.graphicdisorder.com/gallery/uploads/Silkscreening/SAM_0254.jpg[/url])
([url]http://www.graphicdisorder.com/gallery/uploads/Silkscreening/SAM_0126.jpg[/url])
Donnie Miller printed this one. Looks easy at first, but had to create 11 different players. A bit time consuming to create a silhouette for each but it adds to the uniqueness. I like doing ash or heathered tees. You can use the background a bit to interplay with the art.
1 Base white
2 Orange
3 Black
Looks really good, when you say standard sericol, do you mean the primary colors straight out of the bucket?
Notice how nice and clean these dischrge prints are. And check out the color vibrancy. This is part of the reason I believe this process; when executed properly, is superior to a plastisol or even plasticharge underbased print. The fun comes when you start playing around with halftones, overlays, bleeds, etc
Nicely done folks
Here's a couple we did
([url]http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/5946/img1252ux.jpg[/url])
sericol for blue and grey, rutland for white, all 150's, flashed between colors, gildan 5000
([url]http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/1/img1255n.jpg[/url])
sericol for green, the mix was a b!tch, white rutland, 230/40 for green, 150 for white and double stroked, flashed between colors, delta 11730 grass green
I just noticed that about the flashing.........I absolutely never need to do this. Maybe a just in case?
How come you flashed between the colors on the Mid Atlantic one? Using a 150 mesh depositing to much ink for wet on wet?
could it be that flashing removes some moisture from the shirt and you get a better cure?
do the colors change if you run them through the dryer twice?
just a thought, 'very limited discharge experience here . . .
pierre
could it be that flashing removes some moisture from the shirt and you get a better cure?
do the colors change if you run them through the dryer twice?
just a thought, 'very limited discharge experience here . . .
pierre
I don't think that's the issue because single color prints and some WOW multi color prints are fine through our dryer, we have tried double passes and nothing changes. I know many say no need to flash, so I'd like to know how/what to change, no flashing sounds good to me.
QuoteHow come you flashed between the colors on the Mid Atlantic one? Using a 150 mesh depositing to much ink for wet on wet?
Could be I suppose, the print looked okay WOW but popped more with flashing. Like I was saying to Tony, some of our prints look great WOW, others have looked better flashed. 150/48 or 230/40 are what we usually use for spot color discharge, maybe it's just me but higher than that has needed a double hit if it's high coverage area to really pop like the Mid Atlantic design. I noticed you were adding water to yours, maybe that would help with penetration and help get away from flashing? What % do you add?
Something I learned the other day from a dude at Wilflex about discharge is if you really want stellar results, he suggested using a dye house to get your tees, someone who will dye shirts that are white from the get go instead of natural. I'm going to file that tidbit away for the next customer that really wants it to look best and has the budget to pay for it.Two issues there. A. It's a myth. The greige goods work perfectly and after extensive testing in the days when you could actually work in conjunction with a dye house there was no percievable difference. Sounds good in theory but it doesn't hold up.
([url]http://www.graphicdisorder.com/gallery/uploads/Silkscreening/SAM_0421.jpg[/url])
([url]http://www.graphicdisorder.com/gallery/uploads/Silkscreening/SAM_0423.jpg[/url])
Brandt I love your art work and style! You need to sell that business and come work for us, trust me you will love all the boring a$$ corporate crap we do here!
([url]http://www.graphicdisorder.com/gallery/uploads/Silkscreening/SAM_0421.jpg[/url])
([url]http://www.graphicdisorder.com/gallery/uploads/Silkscreening/SAM_0423.jpg[/url])
Brandt.
I love the dots effect, I have the job that kind off looks like this that I have to print in a few days (similar effect).
Great job
B. Good luck trying to find a domestic dye house that will work with your minimums, price, and lead times.
one from last week. . .
pierre
Nice Pierre! Screens/inks?
the 180 LX mesh worked surprisingly well for the amount of detail it had and being able to let the metallic flake through. I think the next time I would go with the 150 and would get a little more glitter through. I wanted to use the liquid gold, but did not have any. . .
I only know crush white from video terms. There it means a white that is being oversaturated.
Nice B, you always got some nice stuff to print. Still see that you got those amateur...oh, um, sorry, safety gates up around the press :). Had to bust them balls, I like giving people a hard time about those. No disrespect to those who use them, I know most of you who have them have to have them up for regs and rules and other BS.
I have them up because I was almost killed by my machine.
I have them up because I was almost killed by my machine.
That's interesting that you used CMYK. I would've gone the route of Black, Blue, Grey/Blue, White, all w-o-w sim process on this.
You got a good contrast from the faded background to the foreground.
Gotta ask:
Is that a little moire or the weave of the material in there?
Why CMYK and why 50 lpi on 230 mesh?
What's the 'm' on the mesh stand for?
This is for Tony P
How to print Snuggies. Well these are actually larger than Snuggies. The
are literally the size of a queen size bed. For Sorority outings.
([url]http://www.graphicdisorder.com/gallery/uploads/Silkscreening/DSC03802.jpg[/url])
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POSTED FOR TONY:
I try to pre-engineer all our sim process stuff but this one got away from me. The first picture will show the first attempt. The car on the bottom is unacceptable. So the films are laid out on my huge light table. My first thought is we need to re-sep. Then after some careful study I see what he’s trying to do. The bottom Camaro prints with a fairly solid 80% halftone the highlighted and shadow with yellow, red, and brown. Switched two screens and added a second flash to keep it clean and bam out of the park. They were printing the solid orange over the accent screens hence the mottling. The second picture depicts the fix.
Scott,
Thats a nice job. POP! of course. Who was that for? The brand/label I mean. Not the pint customer.
Hot off the press.. Looks super bright in person. (the photo doesn't do it justice)
The goal of this shirt was to give the illusion of lots of neon colors using only 2 flouresents.
6 color separation
1. base white
2. blue plastisol pantone
3. green plastisol pantone
4. flourescent orange
5. flourescent red
6. top white
Hot off the press.. Looks super bright in person. (the photo doesn't do it justice)
The goal of this shirt was to give the illusion of lots of neon colors using only 2 flouresents.
6 color separation
1. base white
2. blue plastisol pantone
3. green plastisol pantone
4. flourescent orange
5. flourescent red
6. top white
Where's the glow in the dark? Might as well with all that going on. Looks rad Scott. I think your ability to sep art like this, using fluoro's which are a big variable, zip it off to the printer and have this result shows a lot of chops and savvy.
Do you have a dedicated printer or did this clothing co. have you run the seps and send to theirs? Just curious on what level of integration you have as the separator with the original artist, the company selling to end users and the printers. I mean, do these guys approach you saying something like "we want this art to scream in neon colors using plastisol on rinspun 40/1 cotton Ts, colors need to be "x" or less" ? I ask because if I saw a concept like this I would be so full of questions and focused on locking down all my variables and guiding the client into the right choice for them and for us as printers. A lot could have gone very wrong with a print like that.
POSTED FOR TONY:
I try to pre-engineer all our sim process stuff but this one got away from me. The first picture will show the first attempt. The car on the bottom is unacceptable. So the films are laid out on my huge light table. My first thought is we need to re-sep. Then after some careful study I see what he’s trying to do. The bottom Camaro prints with a fairly solid 80% halftone the highlighted and shadow with yellow, red, and brown. Switched two screens and added a second flash to keep it clean and bam out of the park. They were printing the solid orange over the accent screens hence the mottling. The second picture depicts the fix.
I agree with Ink but what do I know. lol. The bottom pic looks more flat to me though.
Not sure what I am missing but I like the top picture better?
POSTED FOR TONY:
I try to pre-engineer all our sim process stuff but this one got away from me. The first picture will show the first attempt. The car on the bottom is unacceptable. So the films are laid out on my huge light table. My first thought is we need to re-sep. Then after some careful study I see what he’s trying to do. The bottom Camaro prints with a fairly solid 80% halftone the highlighted and shadow with yellow, red, and brown. Switched two screens and added a second flash to keep it clean and bam out of the park. They were printing the solid orange over the accent screens hence the mottling. The second picture depicts the fix.
I agree with Ink but what do I know. lol. The bottom pic looks more flat to me though.
Not sure what I am missing but I like the top picture better?
Very nice work. You seem to do a lot of fun stuff. Good printing.
Thanks for posting.
D
I really dig the art/print work on the Interior Shop T. Great use of a few colors.
Wow you guys! Very impressive!!!!!
So, it was PSALM instead of PSLAM? Damn, I thought that your customers had a sense of humor, being for wrestling and all.
A couple more, I need a camera
Hey Brandt, do you have a full size picture of the first one? That looks like a sweet shirt.
When I grow up I want to be like Brandt! lol
Here it is up close. This is actually probably the 3rd or 4th job I printed about 2 years ago, I was scared of it but PFP on a 230 and it came out pretty good although some of the type I could not expose working with crude equipment out of my garageA couple more, I need a camera
can you post a close up of the art one? that looks cool!
pierre
Solution? Try WF Oasis Maroon and Bright Orange WBPCs. About 70% B Orng and 30% Maroon depending on shade preferences.I shall try that Tony, Thanks!
You will achieve some of the reddest reds ever; some even superior to plastisol.
tp
Solution? Try WF Oasis Maroon and Bright Orange WBPCs. About 70% B Orng and 30% Maroon depending on shade preferences.I shall try that Tony, Thanks!
You will achieve some of the reddest reds ever; some even superior to plastisol.
tp
OUCH!Solution? Try WF Oasis Maroon and Bright Orange WBPCs. About 70% B Orng and 30% Maroon depending on shade preferences.I shall try that Tony, Thanks!
You will achieve some of the reddest reds ever; some even superior to plastisol.
tp
At $133/gal for the maroon and $298/gal for the bright orange that's going to be an expensive red! Tony, I thought you were going to pressure them to sell smaller sizes of their pigments? You're our only hope! :)
Pierre, may I ask why you chose to do that job in 4CP vs. Simprocess?
am I missing anything?
pierre
I like that print Shawn nice to see use of the big half tone dots, tho I do not like the fret board being green ugh!
([url]http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/395797_256022911135946_100001847186378_667701_821865409_n.jpg[/url])
Pierre,
Nice work. The print looks sharper than the poster. I don't know how you are getting 4CP to print on a underbase with out it starting to look muddy after 50 or so shirts. I am sure your using a halftone underbase but still. Are you flashing the underbase?
Jon
You never cease to amaze me, Pierre. I know printers with decades of experience who still don't want to even try this style of printing.
Good job indeed.
Admiral,
The print looks great! How many colors on the gray tones, 3? and a yellow?
Pretty fine dots also. 60?
What mesh?
Very nice.
Thanks
Dan
Very nice print, what shirt was this printed on?
Printing these now, was pretty proud of them.
([url]http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/425738_329014987139539_138282122879494_930315_61566543_n.jpg[/url])
Hey Killer, is that front a left chest? Nice work for a hillbilly :)
I've already watched it Johnny, way ahead of ya. My wife asked me who that guy in the screen printing video was and I told here that was The Killer, and she said that she thought The Killer was an old country music guy who played the piano...true story.
Thanks
Let's keep it nice. I just try to help when and where ever I am. The young ones are the only ones I care much about.
Johnny
Nice to see you over here Johnny. I really liked that first video on Jerry Lee. Shows him as a comfortable, polished, entertainer. A bit like you in your video. Cut offs and all, lol. Hey, I got the Ultraseps too now and find it mighty impressive.
Thanks
Let's keep it nice. I just try to help when and where ever I am. The young ones are the only ones I care much about.
Johnny
No intentions any other way.
I did notice you guys making some out of context comments about my business a few times though. But hey, that's ok.
Thanks
Let's keep it nice. I just try to help when and where ever I am. The young ones are the only ones I care much about.
Johnny
No intentions any other way.
I did notice you guys making some out of context comments about my business a few times though. But hey, that's ok.
Brandt Please understand...when I'm here...there is no there. I miss talking to some of these guys to much.
But you are good enough on your wording that I will say the Only thing I have said and a few times.
Is you are a model for some of these guys to learn from and that on each side of the business you are doing well.
One jacket comment that I hoped helped from past experience.
But don't worry I will not again.
Johnny
Here is a new one. We were sitting on the art for a year. Customer paid to get it done then disappeared. He showed back up 2 weeks ago wanting to get his shirts done....lol
55lpi on 230's and 305's
6 colors- black, 186, 188,2925, yellow c, and cool gray 10 or so.
([url]http://i594.photobucket.com/albums/tt25/Inkwerksspd/Cunado-1.jpg[/url])
face-first in the scanner where it landed with a book stuffed up it's rear.
Jason,
Good looking print. What ink did you use?
they look great, how did you end up printing them?
The chain looks Fing!!! good, to dam good...looks so real impressed with ya dude.
Darryl
Oh what mesh cts and what are you burning screens on to get that great detail...curious!!!
Brandt wow totally wow that is some bad a$$ prints and art wow!
I know you do art, do you do all this your self?
Art and seps by Mitch Different....
Brandt, you should show us some of the stuff you have done.
That would be a great peint for a discharge base. Nice job on the print.
Brandt, you should show us some of the stuff you have done.
:D
Im trying to encourage others to post theirs... So get with it.
Dude thats sick. What Rip do you use?
Really nice work on the shades. They pop.
Graphic- also tight. That looks like very good art/photo you had to work with.
What are details on both these?
Man, those are nice!
Thought this one was pretty good.
([url]http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/orion8377/Tee%20Shots/IMG_1828.jpg[/url])
Sim-Process on black 55LPI
1. 230x(S) wilflex sprint white
2. 255x wilflex so drake red
3. " royal
4. brite blue
5. lt. gold
6. sprint white
squegees 55/90/55 @ 20 degrees
Thought this one was pretty good.
(http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/orion8377/Tee%20Shots/IMG_1828.jpg)
Very Nice.
I never liked the hd meshes. They are more durable though so static stretchers like them so they ship ok and if yer press ops need to lay floods and squeegees on the mesh to setup and tear down it will damage the 30 micron threads on the S. Super delicate stuff, but one of my favorites.
310/30 just dumps ink for a tpi like that though, might be worth the headache of switching. You could likely up the ppi on the square dots too.
Here is one we did recently. 11 colors 55lpi. Super soft hand.
No fight here. :D I can relate and a printer of your calibre is often using the most colors to achieve the best quality print. If allowed and if available, I'd do the same. The thing is, for me and most of my customers, 90% of them have an 8 color or less press. So, I'm accustom to knocking the art down to what will work for them. I'm pretty good at pushing the limits and getting the most out of a press.
Love the TMNT print, it has been years since I have used random dot seps. We first used them back in 1997, I believe. Resolution was around 170 something so that we could print Union plasticharge white through 150x for our underbase and 355x overprint colors.
The cross fit shirt is a cool design, nice looking print. We have been getting quite a few orders for cross fit as of late.No fight here. :D I can relate and a printer of your calibre is often using the most colors to achieve the best quality print. If allowed and if available, I'd do the same. The thing is, for me and most of my customers, 90% of them have an 8 color or less press. So, I'm accustom to knocking the art down to what will work for them. I'm pretty good at pushing the limits and getting the most out of a press.
We are limited to 7 colors max here. The majority of our sim process is 6 colors. I have worked with a twelve color press before and all that I found was that the artist would find a color for every available head, needed or not. :-\ :D
Snatch in the Box? Isn't that redundant?
Here is one we did recently. 11 colors 55lpi. Super soft hand.
nice print CastleKing! what mesh did you use with the 55lpi?
Here is one we did recently. 11 colors 55lpi. Super soft hand.
nice print CastleKing! what mesh did you use with the 55lpi?
We used 355 on all colors and 305 on UL all at 35 newtons.
very nice print! 85lpi? what mesh and brand was used?
may i ask who did the seps or what was used?
Here is another. This one was a 65 lpi that we used to run before we mastered the 85 lpi. 10 colors all 355 mesh
Another Fluid design, he does great work and awesome on pricing.
Printed on 7 different color shirts
5 colors
two whites
black
red
brown
all on 260's 55dpi
([url]http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j35/inkman996/ff_intramurals.jpg[/url])
Very nice! This was printed all wet on wet over a flashed underbase? Clean looking black halftones for the shading.
Five color pigmented discharge no flash no UB
Brandt what is your typical mesh counts and DPI for top colors and shading?
I lied. We currently use Sericol for colors. CCI for White and Base.
The only Yellow I've had issue with is Yellow GS going on black, like in this case. I don't think it's the ink's fault, just the nature of yellow green shade that when you do down on black you get an extra greening effect that makes it look a little 'dirty'.
Brandon, whose Yellow you like?
I lied. We currently use Sericol for colors. CCI for White and Base.
The only Yellow I've had issue with is Yellow GS going on black, like in this case. I don't think it's the ink's fault, just the nature of yellow green shade that when you do down on black you get an extra greening effect that makes it look a little 'dirty'.
Brandon, whose Yellow you like?
Hey Chris, we have our own formulas. But it involves Matsui Yellow PC and CCI Discharge White and Base. And a whole bunch of Voodoo...
DTD that is a sep you did a while back I actually posted the wrong pic for that one. That was a previous job from a while back but none the less it was a cool print.
This is quite possibly the best print to come out of my shop. Skin tones are perfect, shadows and details are spot on. 12 colors, 110 mesh (kidding) All 355 mesh.
damn can you even see a 4% dot at 85lpi with out a loupe?
damn can you even see a 4% dot at 85lpi with out a loupe?
Hi Castle King.
I am interested in what emulsion you are using to be able to hold that percentage if you don't mind sharing. We are losing dots (acceptable amount) anything over 65lpi.
Thanks,
Paul
I need to speak up on all the prints lately, fabulous stuff.
Castle, wow! That's some super fine stuff, I told Rick this morning that it might be the best print I've ever seen from a picture, both of them. We would struggle with something like that for a while but you probably nailed it fairly quickly I assume. What type of exposure unit do you use? Bulb specs specifically?
Dan, thanks for posting that amazing print.. dale would be proud.. lol I couldnt resist..Funny stuff, but he did in fact, teach me almost everything I know about printing . You taught me the rest! ;)
Hey, that process print came out pretty good.
Did we flash that base or do it wet on wet? I forget what we talked about. Colors are awesome. That NEWMAN'S type is awesome.
(four color process on that green type). large consistent areas of the same color tone mixed to get the shade can be trickier than one thinks.
Nice printing.
Nice print Alan. You guys do your own seps?
and one more. sericol red, cci white and grey.
Love all the discharge talk lately - here's a 6 color one we did a little while back
6% on the white, about 80-85% white to 15-20% base, and a bit of binder. the red was sericol straight out of the bucket with a splash of binder and 4.5% activator.
and Thanks! 8)
Sericol colors, CCI white, 230 mesh sepped by Dan.Love all the discharge talk lately - here's a 6 color one we did a little while back
What ink did you use for that?
Ah ha! I thought it looked familiar. I thought maybe I quoted it but forgot I separated it. Man, that's what happends when you get old. I can remember all the women in my life but have a harder time keeping track of the jobs that come in and out my door.
It's know wonder the seps looked great! LOL.
Still tho, it has to have a great printer and all steps involved to balance it out. I'm only as good as you printers are.
I'll keep this one for my printed shirt portfolio.
Thanks
Dan
Yea the photo of the black butcher is really washed out looking. The actual print is much brighter. I did those prints about a year ago but ran across the photos. Dan you seped the butcher designs. Those were my first 4c process designs using the Sericol waterbase process inks. In production I ended up running a discharge underbase with no white..fast flash then all discharge 4 color process inks and a highlight white. That photo of the match book was the samples. The art and print were much improved on the production run. Fluid seped that one.
It worked really good. originally i had a 80/20 white /base mix in and i couldnt keep the process screens clean because of the white. the base was a 230
Running AOP on the Stratus Jumbo this morning. Using 230 mesh, 70 duro squeegee and Nazdar Aquaprint ink.
Heres an all over that we printed last week
4 screens - all 250s - frame size was 36x42 M3 - printed on the 2003 gauntlet, double index, screens in every other head.
Zelko, is your Gauntlet (2 I'm assuming) modified in any way for the longer print stroke?
Most machines can do wider, but longer ain't so easy.
Very cool print and very good art. I'd love to be doing all over printing or wide printing like that.ok.. i love you too danny boy. I was in a pair of levi cord bell bottoms, pointed toe zipper boots and my shirt unbuttoned 4 buttons. oh, with a perm. the photos are hard to look at.
This reminds me of those old 80'S rocker tees. You know Rick, the ones with the big streaks of lightning going all over the background with Ozzy in the forefront. I can see Rick wearing those tees back in the day LOL.
I finally got a chance to try the newman roller frames today. I tried to hol the camera still so if it looks a little blurry, you'll know why.
Looks grrrreat! wow tho. While it's awesome, its a big job for 50 shirts. But hey, if they pay for it, it's a good job.
I finally got a chance to try the newman roller frames today. I tried to hol the camera still so if it looks a little blurry, you'll know why.
Nice big bass and deer Shirtshack. Good detail. Bright whites, good shadows, Looks like you switched up the print order and put the yellow up on top of the red and may ahve come out browner if red was over...and black on top. Just a note. A little yellow, but looks good overall.
Here's another one that we recently printed. I just happened to have a sample laying around but thought this was pretty neat art. This ended up being 8 colors including 2 whites. Base was printed on 225 s mesh, 230/48 for most of the colors with a couple on 305's. Just one stroke on all colors, no revolver mode on this.
Here's another one that we recently printed. I just happened to have a sample laying around but thought this was pretty neat art. This ended up being 8 colors including 2 whites. Base was printed on 225 s mesh, 230/48 for most of the colors with a couple on 305's. Just one stroke on all colors, no revolver mode on this.
Nice print. What LPI?
Another simple use of halftones. (Not sure if we could manage complex ones!)
Matt
Ok I know this is no where near as cool or technical as some of your guys stuff (especially Danny's St. Patrick's Day print!) but we printed this the other day and I think it came out pretty cool!
Nick
this is one of the best two color prints I have seen in a very long time! Awesome design! Hopefully it's yours, but even if it is not, the print looks great!
pierre
That's a nice tall transfer, looks great man. What size is your heat platen? Our hotronix struggles with stuff outside of about 2x4, not sure if it's the platen size or the convex shape or what.
Brendt,
Very cool. Are those printed or is it just art set on shirts in PS?
Brant, Jons questions goes to show how good your printing is getting. Thumbs up.
I have a competitor in town that has a 6 col manual but puts up 10 and 12 color prints on mocked up tee shirts to make people think he's printing that. We can make mock ups look pretty close to an actual print with shirts fold shadows.
Yours is the real deal. Who's the artist? Looks like Scott CamandZ.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/180260_537142466326789_1205013638_n.jpg
I am having a little hard time believing this one is a real print. how does the shirt at the top of the picture fold into the back tire of the car and the tire is not folded at all. Its a great rendering of a printed shirt if it is but if its a real print how did that happen. Not taking anything away from you here I love the style of these prints. Your designer is top notch.
Had a extra, here is Shelly giving you a Thumbs up with said shirt!
Ha Good call Jon. It's forgery for sure. Thats not even Shelly's arm. Shelly had read hair and that arm is obviously from an Italian.
Ha Good call Jon. It's forgery for sure. Thats not even Shelly's arm. Shelly had read hair and that arm is obviously from an Italian.
hahah!....PROFILING!
Love all the new stuff, but does anyone care to give the nuts and bolts of how it was printed? Mesh count, halftone settings, number of strokes, flashes, or revolutions? No big deal really but that kind of info is what I get into. We've printed some sim and 4 color process stuff recently but I don't really like the results we are getting with the inks and techniques we are using. Union's triple strength process inks for the 4cp and various spot colors for the sim. We use a variety of different mesh counts for the UB but stay pretty true to the 280 and 305's for top colors. I could be a little hard on ourselves and we try to print everything with one stroke and one revolution of the press but maybe that's where we are falling short and those jobs simply take more time to print and I am being stubborn.
Static frames btw
TCT,
Great print. A print of old people, you don't see much.
TCT,
Great print. A print of old people, you don't see much.
Don't think of them as "old people" more like the human equivalent of "classic cars"... I feel cooler that way! ;)
Love all the new stuff, but does anyone care to give the nuts and bolts of how it was printed? Mesh count, halftone settings, number of strokes, flashes, or revolutions? No big deal really but that kind of info is what I get into. We've printed some sim and 4 color process stuff recently but I don't really like the results we are getting with the inks and techniques we are using. Union's triple strength process inks for the 4cp and various spot colors for the sim. We use a variety of different mesh counts for the UB but stay pretty true to the 280 and 305's for top colors. I could be a little hard on ourselves and we try to print everything with one stroke and one revolution of the press but maybe that's where we are falling short and those jobs simply take more time to print and I am being stubborn.
Static frames btw
Oh no he didn't! :P
Just messing with ya Brandt, we use probably 85% statics also. The prints are killer, I can see how you can keep your in house artists busy!
one of the main reasons for needing the brighter underbase (as far as I can tell) is that the inks used for simulated process are more translucent so they look duller if the underbase is gray rather than white. Potential way around it would be to use higher opacity inks, but unfortunately, those tend not to be WOW friendly and restrict the color palette that's obtainable.
Most of our sim process prints require two strokes of white which usually does the trick. I don't think we've ever PFPF underbase for sim process, but we've had to do it few times with large areas of light color inks (lemon yellow comes to mind).
pierre
Had a extra, here is Shelly giving you a Thumbs up with said shirt!
Had a extra, here is Shelly giving you a Thumbs up with said shirt!
I'm a little sceptical now as well, that hand doesn't look real :)
Shelly's got some forearms for a girl. :P
Shelly's got some forearms for a girl. :P
That would be James.... Shelly is much better looking, even as a horse.
Ok, this one was SUPER hard..... It is for a liquor store here, called "The Liquor Box" here is their slogan....
([url]http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab14/twincitytees/cc22fbd2-0df9-4d04-96f5-d9430780d3ec_zps905eddb6.jpg[/url]) ([url]http://s845.photobucket.com/user/twincitytees/media/cc22fbd2-0df9-4d04-96f5-d9430780d3ec_zps905eddb6.jpg.html[/url])
OK, so not that complex, but thought some might get a laugh! ;D
No kidding you almost got it back lol
This reminds me of a quote from the movie "Devil in the Blue Dress" with Denzel Washington
hey man! my dead uncle left me that marble you hitting on...yeah! damit he's about to get it back..sorry to get off track
Darryl
LOL.I am glad your down there, your work is real good and having three awesome printers in one area would be just crazy :)
Pierre, I guess your sales guy was too expensive. I'm glad I do not get a lot of requests from that side of the town.
It would be just weird to compete with two of you :)
Looks great Kevin! Send one my way if you have any extras.
Great looking print. Great looking red fish. Is that the entire design or did you have type going down on it on another screen?
I don't think you'd need a 180 on the base. I always suggest a 230 on a base myself for sim process.
Man that's slammin. Manual sim process is no easy feat!
And just like that my fish is poo! :-p
Why didn't you just let the yellow and red make the orange? Just trying to learn.
SWEET!!! Medium
Here's one we were printing today....I thought it was worth of posting since the print looks like it's really coming off the shirt. Very 3 dimensional so it looks pretty cool. Actual shirt in person looks much better then this photo shows. My camera has a weird mind of it's own...
This was White base, Grey, Yellow, orange, and red.....
your flag is incorrect on the Vintage shirt. The blue field should always be in the upper left corner. Sorry, that is probably one of my top 10 pet peeves. I don't know why. It's correct on the one 2 below it.
Nice prints though.
SWEET!!! Medium
Wittle guy :) I'll take a 2X or an extra XL.
your flag is incorrect on the Vintage shirt. The blue field should always be in the upper left corner. Sorry, that is probably one of my top 10 pet peeves. I don't know why. It's correct on the one 2 below it.
Nice prints though.
Unfortunately it was how they wanted it, specifically asked for it that way, it was modeled after a vintage poster done that exact way. I made him aware of it, he declined to allow it to be changed. <shrug>
Here's one we were printing today....I thought it was worth of posting since the print looks like it's really coming off the shirt. Very 3 dimensional so it looks pretty cool. Actual shirt in person looks much better then this photo shows. My camera has a weird mind of it's own...
This was White base, Grey, Yellow, orange, and red.....
Thought this one was pretty good.
([url]http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/orion8377/Tee%20Shots/IMG_1828.jpg[/url])
Sim-Process on black 55LPI
1. 230x(S) wilflex sprint white
2. 255x wilflex so drake red
3. " royal
4. brite blue
5. lt. gold
6. sprint white
squegees 55/90/55 @ 20 degrees
Awesome prints! Great looking art as well.your flag is incorrect on the Vintage shirt. The blue field should always be in the upper left corner. Sorry, that is probably one of my top 10 pet peeves. I don't know why. It's correct on the one 2 below it.
Nice prints though.
Unfortunately it was how they wanted it, specifically asked for it that way, it was modeled after a vintage poster done that exact way. I made him aware of it, he declined to allow it to be changed. <shrug>
OK, if we're going to get picky about flag etiquette... the flag isn't supposed to be on the shirt in the first place. It's not supposed to be part of clothing or costume unless it's a uniform and it's not to be printed on anything that will eventually get thrown away (like Fourth of July napkins, for instance). You're not supposed to put anything on or over it, like a signature or logo, either, so the Severed Ties one is a no-no on that level as well.
But hey, we're all guilty of this stuff... I know I am... just poking Brad in the rib a little. These shirts look great, so rock on! 8)
Love love love that Gad pump art. The cars are good too, but that is awesome.
@Mark_Hurricane
Yes, I thought that one was pretty good as well. ') Here I am with my magnifying glass checking out the competition. I had that pic taken cuz I wanted to say to Orion, "Hey, I say your shirt and it was great"! Then I hesitated to post it. Might of been thought of as a poke at him for not getting 1st...but I assure you all, thats far from the case.
Of all the prints on that wall. That one should have placed for sure. I don't remember if it did for sure. I think it did get a 2nd or 3rd place. That was a tough competition right there. I think we got 1st or 2nd and Any Anderson got the other.visa versa... and this one came in 3rd I think. Not sure on that. still tho, All three are members here. :) Andy doesn't pop in that often but he's a lurker. :)
Hard to tell who's on first. Neuck nuck nuck.
Anyone whoever gets in the top three are equally as good in my opinion. Andy's a tough one to beat tho since his every day stuff is just like his award winners. You have to bring something new and phenomenal to beat him and there is just not that much else one can do. At that point, I think it's a personal preference on the judges part if you can beat his submissions.
In this day of screen printing, it gets a lot harder to do an award winner since I think that the vast majority of printers are far more educated than they were 20 yrs ago in comparison. Much of that is due to these forums and trade mags.
That us humungously sweet. I can't see a dot. Like that a lot. Did John dod the seps or did you? nice. intelligent printing.
nice parker1. You got a lot done in two colors, love the continuous tone. How did you get the wispy blue smoky parts out of yellow + white?
Here's one that we printed yesterday. I wouldn't normally post one like this as it's nothing great but I figured it was worth showing since the client was only able to provide a 4"x4" JPEG @ 72 dpi which was cut off on both sides..... This print is about 11" wide so we had to tweak the art and do the best we could for a 4" jpeg. All in all came out pretty nice. This was 6 colors plus 2 whites... White base on 180 s mesh and top colors on 272 newman mesh.
nice parker1. You got a lot done in two colors, love the continuous tone. How did you get the wispy blue smoky parts out of yellow + white?
I attached a close up, the picture for what ever reason makes it look blue.
Printed this last week , Dan did the sepsHey that looks familiar. Here is a misprint. Can anyone find the defect in my print?
Darryl
a registration mark in the middle of the print?Bingo!!! I cant believe I missed that lol.
a few thousand sounds like a fun weekend around our house...You can melt 365 in to a tire and call it a good year!
Here's one that we printed yesterday.... Just had my tester/sample shirt laying around so figured I'd snap a pic..... In person this shirt looks awesome compared to this photo..... This is a navy blue shirt with 8 color print....This was a pretty easy one for us, double stroke the base and single stroke rest of colors..... 180 base and 272 mesh for top colors.
Here's one that we printed yesterday.... Just had my tester/sample shirt laying around so figured I'd snap a pic..... In person this shirt looks awesome compared to this photo..... This is a navy blue shirt with 8 color print....This was a pretty easy one for us, double stroke the base and single stroke rest of colors..... 180 base and 272 mesh for top colors.
Nice print. Where were the flashes set up?
looking good!yeah split fountain first try at it. Most the art was either customer art that i had to recreate or purchased clip art prices pulled from various places, art books and such.
some of the designs are pretty cool, any of them yours?
is that a split fountain for your shirt?
pierre
3rd
Couple recent ones.
Don't tell me there is a dove on the next screen.
If they wanted to go back that far, wouldn't it be a two part flocking ink?
Can you say what comes next? Curiosity is getting the better of me.
Putting a real horse on a shirt is not screen printing. ;)
That is unbelievable. Is that discharge?
two designs we printed last wednesday. i hope you like them :)
two designs we printed last wednesday. i hope you like them :)
Ummm, wife wants to know where she can order one.
two designs we printed last wednesday. i hope you like them :)
Ummm, wife wants to know where she can order one.
Here's one we designed/printed for our hometeam the Denver Broncos! An in your face style gameday shirt using the denver colors... Since we are real close to the stadium we print some of this stuff for people that sell around town/bars.
Here's one we designed/printed for our hometeam the Denver Broncos! An in your face style gameday shirt using the denver colors... Since we are real close to the stadium we print some of this stuff for people that sell around town/bars.
Your stuff just gets better and better. IM closing down shop, flying my people out to your shop and you can teach them to be next level. LOL THX IN ADVANCE.
Here's one we designed/printed for our hometeam the Denver Broncos! An in your face style gameday shirt using the denver colors... Since we are real close to the stadium we print some of this stuff for people that sell around town/bars.
Your stuff just gets better and better. IM closing down shop, flying my people out to your shop and you can teach them to be next level. LOL THX IN ADVANCE.
LOL, if you want send the crew out in the nice lil' pickup you got yourself and I'll teach them everything I know and you can just leave that ride here in exchange!!! hahahaha... I'll get your invoice ready! lol
I feel like I'm the only one posting to this thread, yall need to start posting some prints!!! LOL
Here's one we printed today. This is a 9 color job(needs the colors for the fades to look really good) printed on 272 mesh @ 65 lpi......
Couple from this morning. Already on Job 3, just 9:30 here.
I wish we had something worth showing off. Most of what we do is very boring and just spot color stuff. The quality is great but visually it's nothing to look at unless you're judging it in person.
I wish we had something worth showing off. Most of what we do is very boring and just spot color stuff. The quality is great but visually it's nothing to look at unless you're judging it in person.
Honestly for me the multiple spot color stuff is probably the most challenging printing...... When you have an 8 color spot going on black shirts where every color touches the one next to it, imo those are the most challenging prints to do. We print some fashion clothing line stuff where we have prints that are 6-7 neon colors going on black and I dread printing that each time we get an order. I would prefer to print sim process all day long so if you have some nice quality spot prints I say post them up with some details. I would love to learn how other shops are tackling these multiple spot color jobs, how many flashes are used, etc. When I dig through my strike off pictures I will post some of the designs I'm talking about that I dread printing.
Brandt, thanks for the kind words man. Regarding the comment Dirk made I for sure have to give credit to my artist. I will say though my printing just a couple years ago was no match to what it is today. I still have a long ways to go as far as quality goes but looking at my prints from a couple years ago they are nowhere near where they are now. Same artist, same seps and my print quality now is far better then what it was so I would say the printing is very important compared to having just good art. I have shirts we printed a couple years back that we have recently done reprints for using the same seps and our quality now is far better then what it was so I'd say it's a complete package with good art, good seps and good printing.
I totally dig the distressing on the dwn tym design, is this a pattern overlay or do you guys hand distress in photoshop using brushes to achieve that effect? Love that style!
Brandt, thanks for the kind words man. Regarding the comment Dirk made I for sure have to give credit to my artist. I will say though my printing just a couple years ago was no match to what it is today. I still have a long ways to go as far as quality goes but looking at my prints from a couple years ago they are nowhere near where they are now. Same artist, same seps and my print quality now is far better then what it was so I would say the printing is very important compared to having just good art. I have shirts we printed a couple years back that we have recently done reprints for using the same seps and our quality now is far better then what it was so I'd say it's a complete package with good art, good seps and good printing.
I totally dig the distressing on the dwn tym design, is this a pattern overlay or do you guys hand distress in photoshop using brushes to achieve that effect? Love that style!
Your printing rocks. Love everything you post.
Alan you should still post your work. Doing spot color stuff is challenging at times.
Danny that shirt was several layers some hand distressed, some just overlays with patterns/etc. Most of our stuff we dont rely on one effect to pull something off. Who's doing your art? Your art guy rocks. Period. If he isn't in house do you mind sharing his info with me privately? If he is in house, any interest in us using you for some art? Let me know.
Brandt, thanks for the kind words man. Regarding the comment Dirk made I for sure have to give credit to my artist. I will say though my printing just a couple years ago was no match to what it is today. I still have a long ways to go as far as quality goes but looking at my prints from a couple years ago they are nowhere near where they are now. Same artist, same seps and my print quality now is far better then what it was so I would say the printing is very important compared to having just good art. I have shirts we printed a couple years back that we have recently done reprints for using the same seps and our quality now is far better then what it was so I'd say it's a complete package with good art, good seps and good printing.
I totally dig the distressing on the dwn tym design, is this a pattern overlay or do you guys hand distress in photoshop using brushes to achieve that effect? Love that style!
Your printing rocks. Love everything you post.
Alan you should still post your work. Doing spot color stuff is challenging at times.
Danny that shirt was several layers some hand distressed, some just overlays with patterns/etc. Most of our stuff we dont rely on one effect to pull something off. Who's doing your art? Your art guy rocks. Period. If he isn't in house do you mind sharing his info with me privately? If he is in house, any interest in us using you for some art? Let me know.
Brandt, our artist is Jeremy Duncan. Many guys around the industry have known of him. He currently is a "contracted artist" for my company but is a full time deal..... Meaning he works full time for us 40 hours a week or more but does it out of his house. He still does some freelancing for other people on the forum but his full time "job" is working for us..... If your ever needing something done just let me know and I can have him work it up for you as he certainly is one of the best artists out there. It took me 4 years to get him on board and turn it into a full time deal instead of freelance. Right now him and I are working on some retail clothing lines that we are going to launch here pretty soon with some really awesome artwork but we can certainly do art for other you if your needing it.
Danny
Brandt, thanks for the kind words man. Regarding the comment Dirk made I for sure have to give credit to my artist. I will say though my printing just a couple years ago was no match to what it is today. I still have a long ways to go as far as quality goes but looking at my prints from a couple years ago they are nowhere near where they are now. Same artist, same seps and my print quality now is far better then what it was so I would say the printing is very important compared to having just good art. I have shirts we printed a couple years back that we have recently done reprints for using the same seps and our quality now is far better then what it was so I'd say it's a complete package with good art, good seps and good printing.
I totally dig the distressing on the dwn tym design, is this a pattern overlay or do you guys hand distress in photoshop using brushes to achieve that effect? Love that style!
Your printing rocks. Love everything you post.
Alan you should still post your work. Doing spot color stuff is challenging at times.
Danny that shirt was several layers some hand distressed, some just overlays with patterns/etc. Most of our stuff we dont rely on one effect to pull something off. Who's doing your art? Your art guy rocks. Period. If he isn't in house do you mind sharing his info with me privately? If he is in house, any interest in us using you for some art? Let me know.
Brandt, our artist is Jeremy Duncan. Many guys around the industry have known of him. He currently is a "contracted artist" for my company but is a full time deal..... Meaning he works full time for us 40 hours a week or more but does it out of his house. He still does some freelancing for other people on the forum but his full time "job" is working for us..... If your ever needing something done just let me know and I can have him work it up for you as he certainly is one of the best artists out there. It took me 4 years to get him on board and turn it into a full time deal instead of freelance. Right now him and I are working on some retail clothing lines that we are going to launch here pretty soon with some really awesome artwork but we can certainly do art for other you if your needing it.
Danny
always love checkin in here and seeing the stuff Danny and Brandt are printing. Always makes me wish I was doing more of that kind of work too! Awesome stuff all around in here. Inspiring.
always love checkin in here and seeing the stuff Danny and Brandt are printing. Always makes me wish I was doing more of that kind of work too! Awesome stuff all around in here. Inspiring.
Wow, we are no where near as good as Danny I am sure of that. We do get to design and print some cool art at times. We are improving all of the time on printing though. Thanks for the compliment though!
Cool stuff Brandt.......seems like you're doing it on a regular basis!
Danny; the prints excecuted at HNG, Oats, Winterland, Habitat, etc in the 80's were extroadinary and most used statics and homemade ink formulas and printed on presses that may seem laughable to some. I was involved in a lot of this. Sometimes I'd be running night shifts with eight or more autos, others it was R&D. We had almost zero outside help but folks like Greaves, Geoff Baxter, and MC were there to help get it to where it was. Imagesetters had a lot to do with the print quality but it was all about the people. It would be awesome to post some of those shirts I'm sure it would spark a long thread.Now that's is dam good the detail is so F'ing good...I really would like to attend some classes and get better, but hey I print what paids the bills...Awesome Print Tony
Heres one from a couple of ys ago (not printed here) where a DC/UB helped achieve continuous tone
This is nowhere near as spectacular as the prints I see posted here, but I thought I'd post one I printed today. Forgive the fuzzy iphone pics. This was 8 colors including a discharge underbase and plastisol top colors.
This is nowhere near as spectacular as the prints I see posted here, but I thought I'd post one I printed today. Forgive the fuzzy iphone pics. This was 8 colors including a discharge underbase and plastisol top colors.
Are you kidding? Visually that just blew me back a few feet, that is great work. The closeup looks like the print quality can't get any better. Personally, that doesn't take a backseat to anything that I've seen posted. It may not have been technically as hard as some I've seen but that's a homerun. I wish I had one to show off at the workshops I do.
This is nowhere near as spectacular as the prints I see posted here, but I thought I'd post one I printed today. Forgive the fuzzy iphone pics. This was 8 colors including a discharge underbase and plastisol top colors.
Are you kidding? Visually that just blew me back a few feet, that is great work. The closeup looks like the print quality can't get any better. Personally, that doesn't take a backseat to anything that I've seen posted. It may not have been technically as hard as some I've seen but that's a homerun. I wish I had one to show off at the workshops I do.
Just realized that I haven't posted anything in here since I've been with the new company....haven't really been in the back much so it's not as easy for me to grab pics of the prints....
Anyway we are currently printing this one so I thought I'd share....
Nick
I can't compete with you guys, but here's what pays my bills....
Looking good, Jay...
John
haha..thanks guys - spandex, man I'm never going to live that down huh...haha...
My printer has been dying to print some gel and foil.man I wish I had time to play, that's very cool
So I finally let the wife order him some supplies for it.
I must say, he did a great job with it.
I know it's copyright, he just did it for himself to play with.
My printer has been dying to print some gel and foil.man I wish I had time to play, that's very cool
So I finally let the wife order him some supplies for it.
I must say, he did a great job with it.
I know it's copyright, he just did it for himself to play with.
Roger
RT screen designs
[url=http://Www.rtscreendesigns]Www.rtscreendesigns[/url] ([url]http://Www.rtscreendesigns[/url]). Com
How many greys were used on the tupac?
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
Not really cool art work but to see your work in a MLB Pittsburgh Pirates locker room worn by the players and coach is cool.....
([url]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/Studog79/Pirates.jpg[/url]) ([url]http://s14.photobucket.com/user/Studog79/media/Pirates.jpg.html[/url])
LOL.... At first I thought.... Why did he take a photo of a magazine?. I did not realise it was a print.
I can stare at these prints for hours.
Not really cool art work but to see your work in a MLB Pittsburgh Pirates locker room worn by the players and coach is cool.....
([url]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/Studog79/Pirates.jpg[/url]) ([url]http://s14.photobucket.com/user/Studog79/media/Pirates.jpg.html[/url])
Danny I swear I am coming to your shop and your teaching me all you know..
DEAL WITH IT.
Danny I swear I am coming to your shop and your teaching me all you know..
DEAL WITH IT.
LOL, you aren't going to learn very much..... that's the truth! haha.....
For Giligan- "Like" :)
Here's another one we are printing today...... Came out pretty nice, this one is customer supplied artwork. Ended up pulling a color out of the sep on this so this is 8 colors total including 2 whites and a black. Had to print on both white and black shirts so we needed the black in there..... The orange color is just red/yellow blends on this one, no orange color printed.
Here's another one we are printing today...... Came out pretty nice, this one is customer supplied artwork. Ended up pulling a color out of the sep on this so this is 8 colors total including 2 whites and a black. Had to print on both white and black shirts so we needed the black in there..... The orange color is just red/yellow blends on this one, no orange color printed.
Did you have any issues getting that orange right or did it look right from the start? Years ago before any of us knew what we were doing we struggled on a job where yellow and red we're mixing to create orange and we fought that job for more than a few hours. We had the 8 color centurian at the time and had one empty print head and just made the orange a spot color. Only recently have we tried creating orange without the spot color and the last job came out great but the job before that did not. Similar setup and same guy doing the seps but completely different results.
I still think flesh tones are tough and oranges as well, but I remember the days 5 years ago where everything was difficult. Some of the stuff that we don't even think about nowadays would have taken up half a day of shop time to just set up 5 years ago.
Here's another one we are printing today...... Came out pretty nice, this one is customer supplied artwork. Ended up pulling a color out of the sep on this so this is 8 colors total including 2 whites and a black. Had to print on both white and black shirts so we needed the black in there..... The orange color is just red/yellow blends on this one, no orange color printed.
Did you have any issues getting that orange right or did it look right from the start? Years ago before any of us knew what we were doing we struggled on a job where yellow and red we're mixing to create orange and we fought that job for more than a few hours. We had the 8 color centurian at the time and had one empty print head and just made the orange a spot color. Only recently have we tried creating orange without the spot color and the last job came out great but the job before that did not. Similar setup and same guy doing the seps but completely different results.
I still think flesh tones are tough and oranges as well, but I remember the days 5 years ago where everything was difficult. Some of the stuff that we don't even think about nowadays would have taken up half a day of shop time to just set up 5 years ago.
Alan, for this print and most we are doing now we setup on press, do a couple test prints to dial in registration/let ink start flowing then print. Rarely are we making many changes these days but a few years ago we would be burning new screens, mixing new colors, you name it LOL..... I can totally relate to your last comment as that's where I was not too long ago! Learning curve has been cut down just from testing it seems, but a couple basic things that have helped me with the blends to get a good orange. Most always we print yellow after red(even on this sep artist wanted red after yellow if I remember correctly but I'm almost always setting on press red then yellow), and the yellow ink gets roughly 10% more halftone base added to the ink to help the transition of the blends. The biggest factor for us in getting great blends has been the actual ink we are using, high tension mesh, and very sharp blades but typically we print the dark color of the fade first and let the lighter color transition on top of it. Right now I have an ink deal with WM plastics and contractually we are only allowed to print their inks so thats what we are using and I've been happy with their inks for sim process combined with a couple bases they offer in order to get decent blends like that orange above. Ink is probably the biggest key though getting the transparency of it correct, as you already knew. No magic here, just mixing inks right and having your stuff on press dialed in to get those results.
Danny I swear I am coming to your shop and your teaching me all you know..
DEAL WITH IT.
Here's a job we are printing today for a high school basketball team. Pretty straight forward 5 color print on this one all on 272n mesh........ Will post a some more end of week or early next week as we have some more sim process to knock out.....
Thanks guys much appreciated...correct all screens were 272 and double stroke the base white then single stroke top colors after that.
Nice, you're killin' it Mon!
Nice work Brant. Can't deny. Not that I'd want to, but say'n there's nothing wrong with those to point out.
NIce Jblue.
Let's get this thread going again, anyone have anything to share?
Let's get this thread going again, anyone have anything to share?
Not when you're posting prints like that :-)
Let's get this thread going again, anyone have anything to share?
Not when you're posting prints like that :-)
Really nice prints everyone. Danny your stuff is another level if you ask me. Something for me to shoot for for sure. I'm moving in your shop soon, you can't stop me.
Yeah Brandt- I'll be hiding in the back of your truck bed... ;)
His artist is worth his/her weight in gold.
Imo it's more challenging doing a 8 color butt registration spot color job on black shirts then any sim process printing, but just my opinion there. My shop could really use some help when it comes to those type of projects as everything I know that works for sim process doesn't work for big area/lots of color solid printing so we have some room for improvement there for sure.
Imo it's more challenging doing a 8 color butt registration spot color job on black shirts then any sim process printing, but just my opinion there. My shop could really use some help when it comes to those type of projects as everything I know that works for sim process doesn't work for big area/lots of color solid printing so we have some room for improvement there for sure.
Hear hear!
Large solid swatches of color, especially when they butt up with other colors, is probably the most difficult kind of job we face.
One recommendation I can make is to use a discharge underbase whenever possible.
Straight DC Flos=piece of cake no prob
I have to admit that the job Alan posted with all those colors butting up against each other wet on wet 1 revolution around the press is damn impressive. I know 100% in my shop that job would go around the press twice so I have to give major props to him for that. Imo it's more challenging doing a 8 color butt registration spot color job on black shirts then any sim process printing, but just my opinion there.
Agreed. What print order did you use. Not that you want to give away your secrets, but Im always sending jobs similar to that around twice.
I have to admit that the job Alan posted with all those colors butting up against each other wet on wet 1 revolution around the press is damn impressive. I know 100% in my shop that job would go around the press twice so I have to give major props to him for that. Imo it's more challenging doing a 8 color butt registration spot color job on black shirts then any sim process printing, but just my opinion there.
Agreed. What print order did you use. Not that you want to give away your secrets, but Im always sending jobs similar to that around twice.
Let me pull the job file and get you the print settings/info, I'll find it in a bit. Normally we go from smallest image area to largest (after the underbase obviously), with a large image area in a design like that right before the second flash unit, then back to smallest to largest after every flash unit you have. By doing it that way you can actually print directly after flash units most of the time if the print area is small. There were halftones in the original but we changed up the art and added a spot color with the darker red in the flag shadows. Another technique we use often is if there was a color that wasn't on top of the underbase (think black ink on a royal shirt) we will print that color right before the underbase screen and give us another color to print wet on wet somewhere else in the print sequence. So we'd print black, underbase, then flash, then other top colors. With the right inks and mesh count selection, you can do 3 colors wet on wet easily, and sometimes up to 5 if you've got really good inks.
I really like doing the process jobs over the spot color jobs, not because one is really that much harder than the other but because I feel like you have a little more freedom and room for error with print sequence with the process jobs than an 8 color, all spots. I agree with Danny in that the artwork is very important but if you've got the art right, and you know what you're doing on press, you can hit homeruns like Danny has on all of his prints. There have been many jobs where we got the screens to press and the art was bad, you have to go backwards and fix whatever the problem was and most likely there is nothing or nobody that can fix a big art problem on press. We have been able to make up for weak art with on-press techniques but it's not easy. Those artists that can get it right the first time paired with printers who understand all those parameters make for a great team. It's like the old saying, "work harder, not smarter", look what you can do if you work hard and smart.
And I got my new phone figured out so I can shoot pics straight to photobucket now and post pics within minutes of taking them. I think I'm gonna make it without the iphone after all. The android stuff is pretty robust.
And I got my new phone figured out so I can shoot pics straight to photobucket now and post pics within minutes of taking them. I think I'm gonna make it without the iphone after all. The android stuff is pretty robust.
I just got the Note 3. Love it in some ways, total trash in others. One app or another crashes nearly daily for me. It's fast though, ill give it that.
And I got my new phone figured out so I can shoot pics straight to photobucket now and post pics within minutes of taking them. I think I'm gonna make it without the iphone after all. The android stuff is pretty robust.
I just got the Note 3. Love it in some ways, total trash in others. One app or another crashes nearly daily for me. It's fast though, ill give it that.
Galaxy S4. No complaints on anything other than just not being able to figure things out since I've only known the iphone for 4 years or so. It's fast, but it's not quite as user friendly for me but it can do a lot of stuff. I think once I learn it all I will like it more.
Danny is that WM system RFU or PC?
Straight DC Flos=piece of cake no prob
360 degrees different.
360 degrees different.
Wouldn't that be full circle and end up being the same? ;D
Lizard, awesome prints. The 2nd one down with the greenish/yellow fish looks like one of the best prints I've ever seen. It looks perfect from what I can tell. Glad to see some new prints floating in here, wish we had more contributions rather then people saying they have the jams but cannot post them >:( >:( >:( LOL
Been lurking all the great prints for a while...very nice work displayed.
Here are a couple from this summer.
Six color sim process 50 lpi @ 22.5 deg.
230 white base - flash
300 mesh top colors - wet on wet
If you can, can you elaborate on how you're separating your art Danny? All of your stuff looks fantastic when it comes to detail and color balance etc.
I am still hand separating in photoshop, and while it works fine for most jobs, I have started getting some more complex art and want to start pushing the limits of my new press. I assume a rip is the next logical step, but I tried Accurip a while back and was mostly unimpressed...
This textile screen printing thing would be a breeze if we could all flash after every color. Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't turn down a 16 color press and if we could justify buying one I would, but you should know enough about screen printing to be able to print wet on wet a little bit. I know all the spot color stuff would be so much easier if we flashed after every color but it's just not feasible and we all can't go out and buy 22 station ovals so we can do an 8 color job in one revolution. I wouldn't mind getting a 12/14 to alleviate some of the "creativity" we have to implement with all the 6-8 color jobs on a 10 color auto but a 14 color I think would be excessive and with 3 flash units I think we'd get soft and lose some of our ability (only half-joking on that). I've always thought that a 12/16 would be the perfect configuration for a shop like ours. I know when we first started we had that 8/12 Centurian with 2 flashes and it was way better than the typical 8/10 press and when I first started looking at new autos, I couldn't believe that 10/14, 12/16 and even 8/12's weren't the norm. Looking back I see how green I was but in reality, I still believe the 4 station-to-color gap to be optimum. The argument has always been that you can pay just a little bit more for a 12/14 than you would a 10/14 and get two additional print heads but it always seems like no matter what you end up filling up those extra two heads with screens and you need additional cool down stations. Oh well, there's a good reason why my idea of the perfect press configuration is rarely ever sold.
I am pretty sure I had mentioned it in the thread about how they were printing in Portugal, but standard press configuration was 3 pallets per print head(like 30 station 10 color). That was probably just as standard as 2 pallets short of your print head count here(like a 10/12) is...
QuoteI am pretty sure I had mentioned it in the thread about how they were printing in Portugal, but standard press configuration was 3 pallets per print head(like 30 station 10 color). That was probably just as standard as 2 pallets short of your print head count here(like a 10/12) is...
That makes a lot of sense for plastisols or the HSA inks that may need a flash after each color but would actually be problematic for WOW discharge/WB as you would have dry time between the heads, even double indexing. Makes for the dreaded "zombie skin" buildup issues.
I see a huge market for the digotex ovals for those applications that need a flash+cool after each color. I believe those free moving platens can index willy nilly and "hang out" or index slower. They could be set to print - flash - half index/hang for cool down then back onto print. Could reduce the monster footprint of a 30 station.
Here are a couple of new prints for trade shows this year. Sorry the pictures are a little blurry.love it
([url]http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z222/n8ivkjun/image-1.jpg[/url]) ([url]http://s193.photobucket.com/user/n8ivkjun/media/image-1.jpg.html[/url])
([url]http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z222/n8ivkjun/image.jpg[/url]) ([url]http://s193.photobucket.com/user/n8ivkjun/media/image.jpg.html[/url])
Thread seems dead again, lol...... Figured I would post this one up as it might not look like much but this one I'm pretty proud of considering it's some very solid colors(with tiny strings of detail beads on the bottom of design) that we printed with 1 revolution, 1 pass on all colors. These are the projects that I dread doing but I finally said screw it and wanted to go with a discharge base and was real happy with how it turned out. I know if I printed this with plastisol it would be minimum 3-4 flashes so pretty happy this was 1 revolution w/ 1 pass on each squeegee....
I'll post up some sim process stuff later or tomorrow for you guys
Alan, yeah the bottom of that print is super detailed. Tiny little strands of "beads" with several different colors. I think the job all together was 9 or 10 colors all spots.
Here's a pretty funny print we are printing today for an internal clothing line we are getting ready to launch. With marijuana becoming legal in colorado here there's tons of "weed shirts" popping up so we have around 8 that we've done. This is the first one I'll post as we have some classic style designs, some funny stuff like this, just a variety of different styles so I'll post more but thought some of you guys might find this one funny! LOL ..... 7 colors on this one, 272 mesh all around
Will start posting some more here tonight/tomorrow for you guys to check out
The details on the grass is unbelievable.
How many colours is that print?
Nice work Jeremiah!
You are one of the few to post sim/process WB prints and I bet many would love to hear what inks/screens you were running on that job. That many includes me, we do occasional full color work with discharge and WB, looking at implementing HSA inks more this year.
Thanks man! well this may sound a little crazy but I first have to give thanks to God for giving us plenty of humidity down here in florida..haha it really does help a ton with the inks in the screen not drying in. This particular job was run with sericol inks on 225's. 7 color job and we used a process black. Dan did the seps on this job and did a killer job!
Nice work Jeremiah!
You are one of the few to post sim/process WB prints and I bet many would love to hear what inks/screens you were running on that job. That many includes me, we do occasional full color work with discharge and WB, looking at implementing HSA inks more this year.
Thanks man! well this may sound a little crazy but I first have to give thanks to God for giving us plenty of humidity down here in florida..haha it really does help a ton with the inks in the screen not drying in. This particular job was run with sericol inks on 225's. 7 color job and we used a process black. Dan did the seps on this job and did a killer job!
Right on, nice work with the DC inks. Sericol DC always does super well with the process stuff. That Dan is getting pretty good with the discharge seps eh? We get treated to a few Dan seps every year and they always come out brilliantly.
Here in MT it is drier than all get out for most of the year. Swamp cooler in summer helps a lot. With a little penetrant/retarder in the mix we don't see dry in problems as high as 330 tpi with textile inks, they have all been very nice in terms of not drying in.
Danny I don't know how many ways you can say incredible but your prints are freakaligiously awesome. Did you notice a great deal of detail improvement with the dts? Just curious.
Nice work Jeremiah!
You are one of the few to post sim/process WB prints and I bet many would love to hear what inks/screens you were running on that job. That many includes me, we do occasional full color work with discharge and WB, looking at implementing HSA inks more this year.
Danny, what the hell man? I cannot believe how you and your artist got that smoke to render. You guys must have had to carefully study that smoke in real life for awhile. ;) I'm impressed, inspired and humbled to see this level of tightness from a shop day in and day out. Some of us get there once in a while but you're doing it all the time.
I wish we could do some cool stuff like these instead of the boring spot color we get. It pays the bills but we have to create things to challenge ourselves and there is only so much you can do with 3-5 spot colors on top of an underbase. You guys are lucky, keep up the great work and don't take it for granted.
I wish we could do some cool stuff like these instead of the boring spot color we get. It pays the bills but we have to create things to challenge ourselves and there is only so much you can do with 3-5 spot colors on top of an underbase. You guys are lucky, keep up the great work and don't take it for granted.Pretty much the same story here though Brian finally pitched a client on doing some higher end stuff and they are really excited at the new possibilities. Our first go at this kind of job turned out better than I was expecting and let us know that our "process refinement" has definitely helped out in the quality department! Art by John Sullivan (sullyman on TSB).
And another one from today..... This is probably one of my favorite looking prints we've ever done.... 8 screens total on this one is what it was I believe which included underbase white and top white..... 55 lpi, all done 272n mesh.......
I with Brandt , but it's a good hate LOLAnd another one from today..... This is probably one of my favorite looking prints we've ever done.... 8 screens total on this one is what it was I believe which included underbase white and top white..... 55 lpi, all done 272n mesh.......
I hate you.
And another one from today..... This is probably one of my favorite looking prints we've ever done.... 8 screens total on this one is what it was I believe which included underbase white and top white..... 55 lpi, all done 272n mesh.......
One of the few this month. Surprised we pulled it off. Its not great but the customers were very happy.
Really?One of the few this month. Surprised we pulled it off. Its not great but the customers were very happy.
That design has been available since 2012
Sent using Tapatalk
Danny I swear to you I am bringing my whole shop to yours to see how your doing this amazing printing.
You've been warned.
Danny I swear to you I am bringing my whole shop to yours to see how your doing this amazing printing.
You've been warned.
LOL, you'll have a hard time making it all fit..... People dont realize how small my shop is until they see it, we do a ton of stuff for 2 autos and the space that we have.... No screen room, nothing like that here..... All these prints are done with us walking screens around the shop under regular lighting :P
I am coming to your shop to see the ch3d though, that way I can show your ass how to load shirts 125 doz/hr LOL
Danny, you guys do some really good work over there!
Other than it being such a beast of a cool machine, how do your guys like, or you for that matter, loading jobs like these on the C3 vs the Diamond Back. How's your CTS pre-reg between the two presses, do you see a faster set up and more accurate set up on the C3? How does your team fare when running a job, say the same design on both one of your DB's and the C3, say they run both machines at say 40 doz per hour, does it beat up the DB team more than the C3 team, or is it equal. Loggin all of my homework for the near future, =)
Thanks Danny
Mike
Here's another sim process one from today...... Pretty crazy deal on this one, client came in this morning(yes today) and said he has an out of state event this weekend that we would need to print and ship shirts today in order to hit their deadline. He supplied the art(a crappy flat jpeg) and I did the seps on it real quick just to get the guy something..... All in all though came out pretty dang nice for us having to turn the job the same day getting it. This was 65 lpi on this one, 6 colors all on 272 mesh
Danny, you guys do some really good work over there!
Other than it being such a beast of a cool machine, how do your guys like, or you for that matter, loading jobs like these on the C3 vs the Diamond Back. How's your CTS pre-reg between the two presses, do you see a faster set up and more accurate set up on the C3? How does your team fare when running a job, say the same design on both one of your DB's and the C3, say they run both machines at say 40 doz per hour, does it beat up the DB team more than the C3 team, or is it equal. Loggin all of my homework for the near future, =)
Thanks Danny
Mike
Thanks Mike! Glad to see you back around here, for a while you were MIA..... Everything about the CH3 has made things "easier" around the shop here. Loading shirts is MUCH nicer then loading on a press with the table going up and down. We have about equal registration between the two presses but I feel like with rear clamp we have less of a chance with the screen walking when it gets clamped. Like the job I posted today(hawaii shirt) I locked the screens and was off to printing. No micro adjustment needed so I would say we get slightly better results on the ch3 then the dback as far as registration w/ triloc. When I was printing the afc bronco shirts I had the exact same job on both presses so it was a good test to see which press was more productive. For the first hour we printed 655 shirts on the dback, and in the same time we printed 984 shirts on the ch3. The 2nd hour I had my guys switch presses so I would know if it was the press guys or the press itself giving me the higher production....So with the crews swapped the 2nd hour our dback did 620 shirts and the ch3 did 960 shirts..... All my guys say running 50 doz/hr on the dback they can switch to the ch3 and run 75+ doz/hr and they feel like they are running the same speed. The ch3 makes things much much much easier and will really increase production. There's quite a few jobs that we double stroke in our shop and we can double stroke on the ch3 and still run 65 doz/hr. There's so many reasons why the ch3 indexing system is far better then the other options but I'd have to write a book on why. Let's just put it this way, I cannot replace my dback soon enough because myself and all my guys have been spoiled with the ch3.
Cool. Any discharge UB? Just curious what your general process is. I'm always impressed by your work.
Video of the trip around our press for the last design we posted:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=666785920046123&set=vb.458685870856130&type=2&theater (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=666785920046123&set=vb.458685870856130&type=2&theater)
Close up of revised design
Video of the trip around our press for the last design we posted:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=666785920046123&set=vb.458685870856130&type=2&theater (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=666785920046123&set=vb.458685870856130&type=2&theater)
So were you guys printing two underbase screens? Discharge then white? Also a top white as well? Or was that just a lint screen in head 1?
This is off topic, and I don't want anything more than a quick answer, but I was just thinking about auto configurations a little after watching your video and was wondering if I have this right...
It seems like the minimum number of heads you would want to output 6 color prints in an ideal situation would be 12:
1. Lint screen
2. Underbase
3. Flash
4. Roller/Cooldown
5. Color 1
6. Color 2
7. Color 3
8. Flash
9. Cooldown
10. Color 4
11. Color 5
12. Color 6
I get that on plenty of designs you wouldn't need the second flash, but it would be ideal to have those two heads if necessary vs adding another rotation. I also know the lint and roller screens are somewhat of a luxury.
Danny, jesus I hate you. Your prints all look insane.
Danny, jesus I hate you. Your prints all look insane.
Don't hate the playa, hate the game..... ;D
I really can't wait until we get our i image ste.... Print quality is going to be better then our lawson dts for sure......
Danny, jesus I hate you. Your prints all look insane.
Don't hate the playa, hate the game..... ;D
I really can't wait until we get our i image ste.... Print quality is going to be better then our lawson dts for sure......
Im gonna fly out to your shop, seriously and im going to plant my ass in all your processes, im going to buy you a crap ton of beer until I know everything you know. Then I will leave.
Danny, jesus I hate you. Your prints all look insane.
Don't hate the playa, hate the game..... ;D
I really can't wait until we get our i image ste.... Print quality is going to be better then our lawson dts for sure......
Im gonna fly out to your shop, seriously and im going to plant my ass in all your processes, im going to buy you a crap ton of beer until I know everything you know. Then I will leave.
I'll be drunk after the first 6 pack actually more like 4 pack then nobody will learn anything but what a lightweight I am..... ;) Once we get the i image ste and uni kote our shop will be 100% blue so wait to come out for that..... I'll let you test drive them as dts and coating might be your next purchase LOL
Brandt I want to come along for the ride. Danny you post some seriously awesome stuff, I'm always amazed at the quality you are putting out!I'll second that, very very nice prints, I would love to print some your stuff after you set it all up on your press ;D
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Nice prints Alan. What in the world is that shirt for...
Nice job Alan but what happen to the hole in throat on the last head it's missing..
Darryl
Nice prints Alan. What in the world is that shirt for...
Some video game. I've never heard of it but I think it's fairly successful. LOADOUT is the name.Nice job Alan but what happen to the hole in throat on the last head it's missing..
Darryl
You got me D, there are other inconsistencies in the art that I would have thought would have been more of a concern but the artwork is from the initial concept sketches. We're just printing what they provided and they do have a pretty good grasp of the processes, much more so than most customers but it's still not perfect art by any means.
DUUUDE!!!! You have a co-axial Seamaster!!!!! Holy crap! That is one serious piece of horological hardware! I am jealous now!
pierre
Thanks guys, believe me when I say our stuff used to look horrible.... It really did, sometimes I look back at some of our older prints and think holy cow how did we think this is good LOL.....
What is impressive here is setup and tear down..... So here's a photo of a hoodie that we printed with the same design but much smaller artwork. We timed ourself from tearing down the t-shirt job, loading up the new hoodie screens, inks, doing test print etc....... Total time from start to finish(time we unloaded the last t-shirt to the time we printed the first hoodie) was only 10 minutes 47 seconds.......Me and 1 other guy doing it all.... I'm more impressed with the fact that we did that then how this print looks!
^^^
That little shop speed and chassis shirt design is badass! Sweet art on that..... Nice printing son
^^^
That little shop speed and chassis shirt design is badass! Sweet art on that..... Nice printing son
Danny's stuff is crazy, as usual, but Brandt doesn't give himself near enough credit. His stuff is also top notch.
did you mean to mis-spell imaging?
It's definitely happened to me before. Once on a 200 piece order. Never a good feeling.
Other than that, damn good. What if anything did you do around the zipper area? We bought a zipper pallet from Action 18 months ago and have yet to print one job with it. I knew it was a bad idea but we had one salesperson who thought she'd sell a ton of them if we just had that pallet...
how many flashes/cool downs for you on something like this?
Here's a quick little cell phone video of us printing the shirt I posted above...... 2 days of printing down and only 800 shirts to finish.... Sorry for the crap videoNice! Dryer is an issue. What you are missing in production speeds would more than pay twice for a larger dryer. Sure you know this but sooner is better than later in this case.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZKCrCt5rno (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZKCrCt5rno)
Here's a quick little cell phone video of us printing the shirt I posted above...... 2 days of printing down and only 800 shirts to finish.... Sorry for the crap videoNice! Dryer is an issue. What you are missing in production speeds would more than pay twice for a larger dryer. Sure you know this but sooner is better than later in this case.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZKCrCt5rno (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZKCrCt5rno)
thanks. When does the I-image get installed?Here's a quick little cell phone video of us printing the shirt I posted above...... 2 days of printing down and only 800 shirts to finish.... Sorry for the crap videoNice! Dryer is an issue. What you are missing in production speeds would more than pay twice for a larger dryer. Sure you know this but sooner is better than later in this case.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZKCrCt5rno (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZKCrCt5rno)
Yeah our dryer is the biggest bottle neck in our shop now when we run these type of jobs. I figured just yesterday alone we could have printed 2200 more shirts if we had a sprint 2000 compared to our mini. I have two contractors coming to do bids on expanding our walls early next week so depending on how that goes we might put an order in for the dryer immediately after finalizing the plans to expand our space this week I'm hoping. I'll be in touch regarding the dryer asap. BTW, our uni-kote is kicking major ass for us. This past week was our first week coating screens with it and we've seen a HUGE improvement with our screens. I never realized how crappy our screens were until we started using the uni kote. You guys hit a home run with it, I could not be more thrilled with how it works.
Here's a print we are running today..... Scott did the seps on this one and it ended up being 6 colors plus 2 whites including the base. Have 14,000 of these badboys to start printing today, going to be green around here for a bit..... LOL
Pierre that looks awesome! Is this a single underbase print or combination with discharge? Looks really good everywhere imo. Edit- after looking at the print further this is one of if not the best print I've seen on this thread as far as I'm concerned. The faint script, helmet details, continous tones.... yeah it's extemely well sepped and printed everyone involved did amazing. Post more!!! ;)
Those look awesome! Were those sepped in SepStudio? What lpi were the films and what mesh counts?
This is slightly off topic, but how do you get the random dot pattern instead of the uniform pattern?
Some good stuff, I have always liked the beach/surf designs.
One we are running this morning. 6 colors 230-330 mesh @ 55lpi
14 colors, 280 & 355 mesh, 55lpi\
Wait, are you printing plastisol on top of a straight out of the can white discharge base? Have you wash tested?
Wait, are you printing plastisol on top of a straight out of the can white discharge base? Have you wash tested?
NO, Mix of DBase and DWhite, sorry should have been more specific. Been doing it over a year now with no issues. Now that I think of it 90% of our jobs we run a DC under base.
Chris
14 colors, 280 & 355 mesh, 55lpi
Some good stuff, I have always liked the beach/surf designs.
One we are running this morning. 6 colors 230-330 mesh @ 55lpi
Nothing as elaborate as what I've seen here but here is one we are printing tomorrow. Just ran off a sample I've just ran noticed the topic of sep studio and that's the program I used for this. It's kind of hard to adjust channels by just what you see on screen. I thought I was borderline over saturating the red and yellow but to me it looks like it could've used a touch more of both of those. Anyway this was six colors
Great first try Alan. If I were going for perfection I would use two blues for the sky
Thought I would put something up for what I think someone petitioned for to be national screen printing day. Not sure if this went anywhere.
Murphy37
Thought I would put something up for what I think someone petitioned for to be national screen printing day. Not sure if this went anywhere.
Murphy37
I got a print from another shop to recreate a few months back and the image was a lot like that one in that it had a lot of black coverage with finer line images in between and I swear to you the black was at least 2 layers thick if not 3. I think it was pfpfp and it was the closest thing I've ever seen to a shirt that might actually slow down a bullet. It for sure would stop a pellet or BB gun. We gave the shirt back to the customer but I wish I had it back so we could send it from shop to shop so you guys could experience that shirt, it was simply amazing to think someone got paid to print that thing.
Yeah Alan I hate those big blotchy underbases to lay colors on top of. It makes it pretty tough to get by with 1 rotation. I had a similar job the other day. Still you done a nice job on that.
Binkspot that looks good for such a small elephant. Looks like great registration from where I'm sitting.
The first, 600th, and 1100th prints of this run.
([url]http://i485.photobucket.com/albums/rr211/alan802/Tshirt%20Pics/2014-04-16%2014.03.30_zpsswlrmk0x.jpg[/url]) ([url]http://s485.photobucket.com/user/alan802/media/Tshirt%20Pics/2014-04-16%2014.03.30_zpsswlrmk0x.jpg.html[/url])
Not one micro was touched from putting the screens on press to the final print. We did one test print, changed out the red to a better one, then ran it. 7 color sim process. Base, flash, flesh tone 1, flesh tone 2, 185 red, 102 yellow, black, top white. You can see some detail loss from the test print to the last shirt but we were on a bit of time crunch on this one and literally didn't have a minute to spare.
([url]http://i485.photobucket.com/albums/rr211/alan802/Tshirt%20Pics/IMG_20140416_16253_edit_1397683577840_zpscnouazln.jpg[/url]) ([url]http://s485.photobucket.com/user/alan802/media/Tshirt%20Pics/IMG_20140416_16253_edit_1397683577840_zpscnouazln.jpg.html[/url])
Alan, I\m usually not one to question spelling and grammar :0 and I know this was customer provided art, but shouldn't it say "I Survived instead of "I Survive" ? Good seps and good printing.The first, 600th, and 1100th prints of this run.
([url]http://i485.photobucket.com/albums/rr211/alan802/Tshirt%20Pics/2014-04-16%2014.03.30_zpsswlrmk0x.jpg[/url]) ([url]http://s485.photobucket.com/user/alan802/media/Tshirt%20Pics/2014-04-16%2014.03.30_zpsswlrmk0x.jpg.html[/url])
Not one micro was touched from putting the screens on press to the final print. We did one test print, changed out the red to a better one, then ran it. 7 color sim process. Base, flash, flesh tone 1, flesh tone 2, 185 red, 102 yellow, black, top white. You can see some detail loss from the test print to the last shirt but we were on a bit of time crunch on this one and literally didn't have a minute to spare.
([url]http://i485.photobucket.com/albums/rr211/alan802/Tshirt%20Pics/IMG_20140416_16253_edit_1397683577840_zpscnouazln.jpg[/url]) ([url]http://s485.photobucket.com/user/alan802/media/Tshirt%20Pics/IMG_20140416_16253_edit_1397683577840_zpscnouazln.jpg.html[/url])
We don't get to post to much of the stuff we do but was extremely happy with how this one came out considering it was on a Augusta reversible jersey.
Danny your like a set of big hooters you just keep popping up with eye catching stuff ;D nice work and you other cats don't sell yourself short, y'all posting some nice prints as well, keepum coming..
Darryl
I keep posting but my posts don't show up.... I guess I should stop posting prints, lol.
Here's a couple we ran today, the sam's job is 8 color going on multiple garments. I just tweaked the blue slightly for the different color shirts so they look a bit different. This was printed on 1 revolution, double stroke the base and single stroke the rest. Just 1 flash after base.
The lobster job is only 5 colors total - White, blue, yellow, red and black. This was 1 strokes 1 revolution to get this print. Came out real nice for limited colors
Hey Danny, wanted to let you know that I visited with my friends at Andy's T's last week, and when I bitched to my buddy Ron, their head art honcho, about not seeing him here on the board much, he brought up your name as the guy who impresses him with the prints that you display here.
Good praise because they do pretty well at Andy's as well.
Printed 600 of these today, from about the 3rd print onwards, every one was perfect... gotta love it when a plan comes together.
Seps were done by Scott from myseps.com
Print order:
6 color, 55lpi
White Base, lt Gray, Yellow, Red, White, Black
I've never done black last before... but in this case it really worked and made the print look awesome.
Printed 600 of these today, from about the 3rd print onwards, every one was perfect... gotta love it when a plan comes together.
Seps were done by Scott from myseps.com
Print order:
6 color, 55lpi
White Base, lt Gray, Yellow, Red, White, Black
I've never done black last before... but in this case it really worked and made the print look awesome.
([url]http://www.oaknet.com/gallery/var/resizes/Screen-Printing/Samples/IMG_6783-3.jpg?m=1403396144[/url])
Alan you got me, what is the trough method? By the way your print looked much cleaner and better.
Alan you got me, what is the trough method? By the way your print looked much cleaner and better.
It looks like those are gutters that were too wide and ended up looking like strokes that changed the look and feel of the design. Austin Pride.. but separate.. is the problem with Alan's design.
I think the problem, Alan, is you are looking at this from a professional point of view whereas your customer sees nothing but the black outline around the letters that he doesn't want there.
I think in his mind (like most simple, average customers) doesn't recognize things like slightly better opacity, smoother prints, and such things. All the customer could see was an outline that wasn't supposed to be there and to hell with everything else.
Alan, did you put a trough around the letters too?
The reason why we started using gutters is so that we can do jobs like this in one revolution. Buildup was there but it wasn't bad enough for us to stop and clean screens. The gutter is around the text but it's more noticeable because on the highlight white we don't use any trap/choke and it sits directly on top of the underbase. That is a 9 color job on a 10 color press, spot colors, and it was done in one revolution. We could have tried to have printed it without gutters and multiple revolutions and staggered the colors so that the colors printing after did not touch the previous, then we'd flash them, then the remaining colors would have been printed. I'm thinking that doing that in 2 revolutions would be tough. I think that to do that job with no gutter we're talking 3, maybe 4 revolutions with only one flash on the press.
The reason why we started using gutters is so that we can do jobs like this in one revolution. Buildup was there but it wasn't bad enough for us to stop and clean screens. The gutter is around the text but it's more noticeable because on the highlight white we don't use any trap/choke and it sits directly on top of the underbase. That is a 9 color job on a 10 color press, spot colors, and it was done in one revolution. We could have tried to have printed it without gutters and multiple revolutions and staggered the colors so that the colors printing after did not touch the previous, then we'd flash them, then the remaining colors would have been printed. I'm thinking that doing that in 2 revolutions would be tough. I think that to do that job with no gutter we're talking 3, maybe 4 revolutions with only one flash on the press.
halftone underbase!!! It flexes and breaths better so you sell the customer on the benefits. I think it's been several years since we spun the press around twice on a multicolor job and even that was due to bad films rather than screen issues. We do spin the under 40 pcs, white only, around twice to save burning, registering and cleanup associated with an extra screen.
pierre
Yep, missed it. That kind of design on 50/50? I'd insist on changing something...
Disorder. You always have great textures, that leather look is nice.
Brandt, what kind of LPI and screen mesh are you running? Those halftones look amazing.
i love this post so much! that oklahoma print is awesome!
Disorder. You always have great textures, that leather look is nice.
Thanks!Brandt, what kind of LPI and screen mesh are you running? Those halftones look amazing.
Thank you! 230 screens, 60lpi
i love this post so much! that oklahoma print is awesome!
Rocfrog. That half tone in the metal on nice & clean.
i love this post so much! that oklahoma print is awesome!
X2
Disorder. You always have great textures, that leather look is nice.
Thanks!Brandt, what kind of LPI and screen mesh are you running? Those halftones look amazing.
Thank you! 230 screens, 60lpi
Drop the line screen down to 55 and it will look even better (in some tiny areas).
You're gonna say, "We already do great prints". Yes, they look great. But they can be better if you hold the tiniest dots also. You can't see it in prints...as we have nothing to visually compare to, so they look great...but if you compare the printed results (printed color to film) on the seps, you will find that you are losing your smaller dots (on press). That has to do with the fact that (even using S thread), your smallest printable dot you have (should be covering 2 mesh threads and one opening) as a gauge. S thread helps this because of the more open area...but only decreases the number of blocked dots...It does not eliminate the chance, and still blocks dots somewhere because the smaller dots on a 60lpi are just too small for the 230 to hold them (or not block them). 55 gives you a slightly bigger dot, increasing your changes a little more of not having those 4% and under dots from getting blocked out. THe visual differences between 60 and 55 are non-consequential.
All in all, still looks great, just not (best it can be). You of course don't have to do squat. LOL.
Danny, man that print is cool all around. That 3d look with the lettering is what's up. Hopefully, I'll have a couple to post at the end of this week. One is a pocket emblem sim process so I'm kind of nervous about that one. I'm still not sure what lpi to use on such a small print to hold the details.
We are on our sixth day of nonstop poly uniforms and poly bags. Nothing spectacular about this print, 3 color all Top Score. Not the retail price tag of $65 or the fact it's custom with min orders and six weeks delivery form Germany. It's the printing between the ribbing that sucks, reaks havock on the screens.
That looks AMAZING P!
Specs?
After Pierre posting that print, should we just close this thread?? ;D
Amazing work!
Thanks Brian.
Pierre that is a very nice print, can you share specifics, screens, colors, run order?
Chris
this one was rough. Misunderstanding from the start so we went off in teh wrong direction. Took a day to get back to where we were heading. I think this is the longest we've ever sampled a job.
pierre
here's a bigger version. Did not want to clog up the bandwidth, but it's worth a look. . .
pierre
damn hell P, that chit is bananas...you better get it right or he bust you one in the face.waay too long due to miscommunications. If that time was taken out, still probably 5-6 hours, if not more. We are sampling after hours, so it (again) normally would not be an issue. In this case, we had to sample during the day and it cost us a bunch of money to do it. This was a first time customer and we were not expecting the level of print they were after. 99.9999% would have been happy with the first proof, but they wanted more and I misunderstood what they wanted. Spent two days chasing the impossible to finally get an answer of what really needs to be done. Chalk it all up to new customer. We know now what their expectations are. If the first print was taken, I think we sampled that about an hour or two.
truly amazing P, great seps...
sampling time?
here's a bigger version. Did not want to clog up the bandwidth, but it's worth a look. . .
pierre
Pretty good for a beginner. ;) LOL. I taught him everything he knows and he still don't know nutt'n. :)
It would be interesting, educational and fun to provide my version and compare results of ( the same printer), it would be a good indication of obvious great results using auto sep program combined with printer skill adjustments compared to mine combined with printer skills.
I'm sure mine would be different, and for salability, not even necessarily better or worse. Just different. As you can see, both options (can) produce excellent sellable/ approvable results.
In this case, if you were to only see this one, we might think THIS is tops and can't get much better...yet, when you (only) look at mine), you might say, THIS is tops. Can't get much better. Set them side by side, you can then see the subtle difference. Again tho, from a customers perspective either will be fantastic.
This is a good example of the tweaking involved and adjustments needed later on press from a skilled printer. I think it's and EXCELLENT job well done Pierre.
Do you have a pic of the first sample?
the plot thickens.
they were not real happy with the print, so we had to decline to produce it for them. I thought the unpredictability was too much of a liability if they were having issues with that. . . Rick from Mirror Image is gonna try to please them. Good luck Rick!
pierre
DUB
Discharge under simulated top.Very cool!
Unimatch union, less color shifting than rutlands C3 or M3 mixing systems and overall cheaper and easier to work with.
I"m going to post a bunch of crazy print close ups if my internet would stop acting slow.
Discharge under simulated top.
Discharge under simulated top.
Extreme - those are awesome. I know of the company the Ernest shirt belongs to. Have you been printing for them for a while?
Ah, ok, I got it. I think I know the deal now. I used the same company before I started printing my own stuff so there's even a chance you've printed some of my shirts. That's why I was curious. =)
Here's a shirt that we printed as part of our own clothing line...... The print was really nice so we ended up submitting one of these into impressions contest as we had about 2 dozen extra shirts on this run. The guys that said they wanted a promo shirt from us, this is what I sent out so enjoy it when you get it! Pretty straight forward sim process style print on this using 8 colors plus base. We setup, changed out 1 color and ran them.
BTW, this was printed 100% on static frames ;D
very, very nice work!
can we see some more?
who is doing the seps and how many colors are you using to print?
pierre
Thanks guys, anyone that wants a shirt let me know.... I still have some left over that I'll send to board members if they want..... I actually think the print looks as vibrant or more in person then the photo shows but the guys that get their shirts can be the judge on that..... Would be cool for us to start sharing some actual shirts so we can all compare.I'd love one, mostly just to see one of your prints in person since everything you post is super impressive. I'll shoot you a PM.
Here's a shirt that we printed as part of our own clothing line...... The print was really nice so we ended up submitting one of these into impressions contest as we had about 2 dozen extra shirts on this run. The guys that said they wanted a promo shirt from us, this is what I sent out so enjoy it when you get it! Pretty straight forward sim process style print on this using 8 colors plus base. We setup, changed out 1 color and ran them.
BTW, this was printed 100% on static frames ;D
Nice work brandt!
How many colors was the Southern Hospitality grayscale print? That is one sick looking print.
Flames are some of the hardest images to reproduce with SP on fabric. Nice work Brandt.
Nice work brandt!
How many colors was the Southern Hospitality grayscale print? That is one sick looking print.
3 colors, 2 whites and a grey.
Thought this was a cool one, was discharge under through a 305 and all 305 tops screens, 10 total. Highlight was ran right after the base and flash wet on wet all the way.
Nice work brandt!
How many colors was the Southern Hospitality grayscale print? That is one sick looking print.
3 colors, 2 whites and a grey.
I really need to learn how to properly separate for stuff like that...
you should see a quality increase on halftones with the i-image. it's not a magic bullet, but our blends are much better and we are getting less moire on higher line counts as well.
That last one is really nice looking! Out of curiosity, why DC base and plastisol top instead of just DC colors?
It helps that Danny is able to post most of his stuff to! Wish I was able to post what we do here.. about 1-100 we are allowed to post lol.
Great printing and seps as always Danny!
Nice work Brandt...
how many hits of white did you have under the yellow in the middle pic? Did Have to run it in Revolver or did you add an extra flash in there?
Yellow on black always is such a challenge for us here.. usually have to have 2 layers of white underneath it to make it pop.
nice work brandt, you or your artist is top notch!
Alan...what mesh gave you the one hit? Looks good.
Nice work all.
Alan, that's some big chunks of one hit white. Wow, and on a maroon shirt , nice going. How thick of micron stencil?
Murphy37
It's amazing that we're busting at the seams because it seems like almost daily two of our six sales people try to sabotage the entire process by accepting stuff like this and it's like they are TRYING to make things as difficult as possible.
It's amazing that we're busting at the seams because it seems like almost daily two of our six sales people try to sabotage the entire process by accepting stuff like this and it's like they are TRYING to make things as difficult as possible.
that's easy.. they make more money on the large colors jobs, they don't care what it does to your production.
I'd love for them to work in production for a few days and even then I wonder if they'd learn anything.
Distress patterns are a great tool that everyone should try to use for those large open area designs.
I'd like to have more stuff like Danny and Brandt post. The designs Brandt posts are a great example of breaking up the images so that it's not a huge slab of ink going down. That makes a huge difference in printability and breaking up the art with the distressed patterns and halftones helps a ton with opacity. Distress patterns are a great tool that everyone should try to use for those large open area designs.
And if Brandt and Danny printed that stuff with DC well....that would be something
It could be arranged you can PM me. True enough most car shirts athletic merch does not need to be DC but change is in the air.
Tony, figured I'd let you know that I'm now running over 75% of my sim process jobs with a discharge underbase!!! I will come right out and say that our printing is BETTER with the discharge underbase and a big reason I have been pushing myself to do discharge is you..... Slowly I'm doing more and more with discharge/waterbase products and thats probably mostly because of you so thanks for that! LOL
I'm a firm believer that discharge base gives us a better print then plastisol base 100%
Tony, figured I'd let you know that I'm now running over 75% of my sim process jobs with a discharge underbase!!! I will come right out and say that our printing is BETTER with the discharge underbase and a big reason I have been pushing myself to do discharge is you..... Slowly I'm doing more and more with discharge/waterbase products and thats probably mostly because of you so thanks for that! LOL
I'm a firm believer that discharge base gives us a better print then plastisol base 100%
Same here...
While not quite as good as pure DC color, the DC Base is an excellent consideration. The yield is crisper definition, resolution, and hand of course. That said once you master pure DC color, well...most never look back. Look at what The Mountain does.
Tony, figured I'd let you know that I'm now running over 75% of my sim process jobs with a discharge underbase!!! I will come right out and say that our printing is BETTER with the discharge underbase and a big reason I have been pushing myself to do discharge is you..... Slowly I'm doing more and more with discharge/waterbase products and thats probably mostly because of you so thanks for that! LOL
I'm a firm believer that discharge base gives us a better print then plastisol base 100%
Same here...
While not quite as good as pure DC color, the DC Base is an excellent consideration. The yield is crisper definition, resolution, and hand of course. That said once you master pure DC color, well...most never look back. Look at what The Mountain does.
I really wish they would make a 250-280S :(
Printed using MagnaPrint® Discharge AB AW System 120T MeshGreat stuff.
I'd be interested in hearing how to keep the DC base from drying in the screen with those higher mesh counts. I'm having trouble keeping the mesh open above 225's with underbasing with DC and plastisol on top...sim process stuff. I've done a few DC base plastisol top sim process but if I go higher on the mesh counts it dries in badly.I have to say for us it really depends on the dc base we use. The Matsui base is pretty much a no go for us on higher mesh counts, even with retarder at 4-5%. I have to say though the Matsui DC base available in Japan is different to the one in the States.
Tony, figured I'd let you know that I'm now running over 75% of my sim process jobs with a discharge underbase!!! I will come right out and say that our printing is BETTER with the discharge underbase and a big reason I have been pushing myself to do discharge is you..... Slowly I'm doing more and more with discharge/waterbase products and thats probably mostly because of you so thanks for that! LOL
I'm a firm believer that discharge base gives us a better print then plastisol base 100%
Same here...
While not quite as good as pure DC color, the DC Base is an excellent consideration. The yield is crisper definition, resolution, and hand of course. That said once you master pure DC color, well...most never look back. Look at what The Mountain does.
Danny (and Tony),
So... we run our sim process jobs on 330-S mesh (and some times 270-T) mesh. From a recent post by you, Danny, it seems your runs that you're posting are somewhere in the 500-1,000 piece range? I would enjoy running DC base and plastisol top on our sim process jobs, as I even think you can get away with more colors because of possible needing less cool downs (because ink isn't on top of a plastisol white), but a few questions:
(1) While on smaller runs of 500 pieces I don't see this posing an issue, my biggest concern for us on longer runs (for us, like 6k pieces), is the halftones clogging up. And, well, you won't know until WELL after you're screwed at the end of the dryer. So, what's the safeguard for this? Also, getting through 6k pieces in one day for 2 guys on 20" tall prints isn't going to happen here. So there's also the cleaning out the screen and hope you got all the small dots cleaned out aspect for the next day's run of printing.
(2) Danny, have you noticed any difference in build up on the bottom of screens with a plastisol base and a dc base on your sim process jobs?
(3) What about vibrance in print? At the end of a 6 color sim process job that we ran with a plastisol base, I did a test print with a DC base and the colors were a bit more more muted and the hand was not so noticeably different (so we would've lost a lot more in vibrancy than we would've gained in "hand") -- but we're also running our plastisol base through 330. Do you find your artist needs to accommodate for the top color seps when you're running DC base as opposed to plastisol base?
(4) Top Colors: Do you notice a difference in speed of running the squeegee? We're running our top plastisol colors at 14"-25" per second on top of a plastisol white base. Do you find any need to slow down your squeegees to improve opacity, since you're effectively printing on the shirt itself with the DC base?
(5) Base Print: What's the speed of your squeegee for your base with plastisol in comparison to that of discharge? Are you double stroking the discharge base screen like you've mentioned you do sometimes on your base with plastisol? That would kill our speed in getting the job done if we had to double stroke on our press for 6k pieces.
Thanks for your input.
Really informative post Danny! I have a handful of questions, mostly general due to admiring you as a printer and wanting to learn from your experience:
Are you using solid pallets or honeycomb pallets? I was wondering if you saw issues with heat related to pallet choice or if that is something you have already optimized.
Do you think the buildup you experience when using a discharge base vs a plastisol base is due to the double flash and the resulting extra heat retention or something to do with the difference in the ink itself?
You mention using a 225S base screen, but I believe I've seen you mention using 65lpi for most of your sim process work. I was wondering if you are using that same LPI for your base and if you have experienced any issues with the lower mesh count?
Is there a particular reason you only switch blades for single stroking your base in some situations vs making that switch all the time?
I know these may be simple/dumb questions. but I always look forward to your prints and would love to know more about your process. Seeing the Take er Slow print in person was mind blowing...
We have to doublestroke most of our underbases here...
Awesome info Danny, thanks for taking the time to post all of this.
Don't think I've really posted here, mainly because we don't do that much sim process work. Well we got one, even had 2 separators turn us down on doing the seps. Needless to say that really freaked me out, after all was said and done 9 colors is what we have below. Critiques and comments are welcome and appreciated. Personally I think I'm going to try to bump up the underbase on the shield part of it and pull back on the final black.
Don't think I've really posted here, mainly because we don't do that much sim process work. Well we got one, even had 2 separators turn us down on doing the seps. Needless to say that really freaked me out, after all was said and done 9 colors is what we have below. Critiques and comments are welcome and appreciated. Personally I think I'm going to try to bump up the underbase on the shield part of it and pull back on the final black.
Don't think I've really posted here, mainly because we don't do that much sim process work. Well we got one, even had 2 separators turn us down on doing the seps. Needless to say that really freaked me out, after all was said and done 9 colors is what we have below. Critiques and comments are welcome and appreciated. Personally I think I'm going to try to bump up the underbase on the shield part of it and pull back on the final black.
On the subject of double stroking on sim process, I think it's fairly "par for the course" as even the self-proclaimed hater of the double stroke (myself) does it more times than not on navy and black garments with sim process jobs. I think the key is to always TRY to do the job with the least amount of work but don't spend an hour trying to get things just right (unless the time spent doing so will outweigh the time it spends to double stroke, larger quantity jobs apply) and instead work in new blades, ink, additives and mesh in a little at a time until you find the most successful combinations. Let's not forget the real reason for the double stroke on sim process is not that someone is failing at something but rather it's the nature of the beast when using higher mesh counts...it's an opacity thing. Higher mesh counts don't usually allow enough ink through to give you the opacity needed for the top colors to pop. I know it can come off as a failure type of issue, especially with the comments I make a lot about double stroking, but I want to be clear that if you're double stroking your bases through lower mesh counts then you're likely doing something wrong in the process, but that's not my thoughts on doing it with higher mesh counts. So in closing, double stroking sim process=not bad, double stroking the base on a 3 spot color on darks with no detail=you can do better :).
P and Alan, thanks for making my point LOL....... Sometimes I'm not that great with words HAHA
We just printed the green energy engine print today(reorder) and it was 1 pass all the way around on all colors..... No double stroking needed at all
here was a pic of the old print but always look the same
P and Alan, thanks for making my point LOL....... Sometimes I'm not that great with words HAHA
We just printed the green energy engine print today(reorder) and it was 1 pass all the way around on all colors..... No double stroking needed at all
here was a pic of the old print but always look the same
Can I buy one of those, its that cool.
here was a pic of the old print but always look the same
Don't think I've really posted here, mainly because we don't do that much sim process work. Well we got one, even had 2 separators turn us down on doing the seps. Needless to say that really freaked me out, after all was said and done 9 colors is what we have below. Critiques and comments are welcome and appreciated. Personally I think I'm going to try to bump up the underbase on the shield part of it and pull back on the final black.
for anybody reading, most of that art was done with 4/1000th of an inch lines. I understand why separators would turn it down! Who did you get to separate it and did you manage to keep the small lines or was the art changed? That would be technically most difficult print I have ever seen (yes, counting in all the crazy SGIA winning stuff).
pierre
Keep in mind, the size of the art also. Bigger is better. Many people print images at 40-45lpi on large prints cuz you can easily and the print still looks great. Take the same 14-16" wide print and print it at 8" across and at 55lpi and the visual quality (and the smooth gradation windows) are reduced. You almost have to treat a smaller print differently than a very large print. I like to ask my sep customers to take my sim process left chest prints up to 65lpi if I can and I adjust the seps accordingly.
I didn't end up changing anything, same file I sent you. Dan handled it. The customer is super happy with it as-is and gave the green light, but I feel we can do a bit better. Nothing like being thrown into the deep end and forced to learn how to swim!
Here is a new pic from a better phone, criticism still welcomed!
What colors? Where? Did I send you the original file? Am I going crazy? Pretty sure I am way too concerned about this print. It is a DC UB and PC top colors, part of me wanted to try WB top colors but I didn't want to add another thing to the mix. I really want to add to the UB screen just on the shield, make it a touch brighter.I didn't end up changing anything, same file I sent you. Dan handled it. The customer is super happy with it as-is and gave the green light, but I feel we can do a bit better. Nothing like being thrown into the deep end and forced to learn how to swim!
Here is a new pic from a better phone, criticism still welcomed!
Looks like some of the color was lost in translation from the original, but other than that it looks solid to me. Not to mention probably the most brutal hip-hop album cover of all time.
Meanwhile, I was just about to post a two color halftone print we did the other day. After the last few posts, I think I'll just go back to being a spectator.
Do you have any closeups of that skull one?Here is a larger fragment
Here is a larger fragment
Fantastic detail~I think you need 90 X 2,54 . I'm from Russia and more I can't say. I use emulsion Ulano QLT , it allows you to print high Lpi. Sorry for my English.
Correct math here?:
120.34cm X 2.54" = 305 mesh
Approx. needed mesh to hold 90dpi/lpi =
90 X say 4.0 = 360 mesh
90 X say 4.5 = 405 mesh
How such clean images without moire or dots being blocked?
Thanks,
Here is a larger fragment
Here is a larger fragment
I use expiree device with 5kW metalhalide lamp Film making on the EPSON printer, emulsion, apply 1+1 and quite a bit of magic :)
eff it, i quit.No doubt.
This Russian TOP secret. But I'm ready to share it ;)
I use Static frames, saati mesh, tension 25 Use chameleon printing machine
What colors? Where? Did I send you the original file? Am I going crazy? Pretty sure I am way too concerned about this print. It is a DC UB and PC top colors, part of me wanted to try WB top colors but I didn't want to add another thing to the mix. I really want to add to the UB screen just on the shield, make it a touch brighter.
To expand on this idea a little, basically we would all start with the same artwork, something technically challenging yet simple enough that it could be printed on any setup and in a variety of methods. That skull print is a great example: 3 or 4 screens, lots of detail, fades, etc. We then each complete the project, but note the variables at each general step of the way. Finally we have a thread for each general step, like seps and film output, exposure and emulsion choice/coating method/mesh, printing and ink choice/press/print variables. In each thread we discuss how that step affected the final results, compare pros and cons related to choices made during that step. Eventually I feel like there would be some interesting conclusions and outliers (like the 90lpi manual print here) that made everyone a better printer.
I use Static frames, saati mesh, tension 25 Use chameleon printing machine
OHHH but this can't be done with statics ...pfft.. ::)
I think you just won the internet.
Gets my vote
The more I think about this print when it comes to illustrating just how many variables go into making a phenomenal print, the more I wish we could set up some kind of system where we could test eachother and narrow down problems or areas that could be optimized. I realize there are a ton of different equipment setups and isolating a specific part of the process would be difficult, but I think it would help a ton.
To expand on this idea a little, basically we would all start with the same artwork, something technically challenging yet simple enough that it could be printed on any setup and in a variety of methods. That skull print is a great example: 3 or 4 screens, lots of detail, fades, etc. We then each complete the project, but note the variables at each general step of the way. Finally we have a thread for each general step, like seps and film output, exposure and emulsion choice/coating method/mesh, printing and ink choice/press/print variables. In each thread we discuss how that step affected the final results, compare pros and cons related to choices made during that step. Eventually I feel like there would be some interesting conclusions and outliers (like the 90lpi manual print here) that made everyone a better printer.
Just a thought...
edit: I fully understand not everyone would want to participate or be able to participate. Someone like Danny who is printing balls to the wall all the time may not have the time, or some of us might have little competitive edge type knowledge that we wouldn't share, but really any info and discussion where we can isolate differences and compare results based on a common starting point would be informative.
Does the magic you mentioned involve copious amounts of vodka? :DVodka is not relevant, only Jack Daniel's ;D
I do not understand that won the Internet?I use Static frames, saati mesh, tension 25 Use chameleon printing machine
OHHH but this can't be done with statics ...pfft.. ::)
I think you just won the internet.
Welcome to Moscow! :)This Russian TOP secret. But I'm ready to share it ;)
Haha please share! I can keep a secret! Promise.
SERJ, I take it this is done again all with Magna discharge?
Send me a message if you feel like spilling the beans;)
What brand/style of shirt are these being printed on?These t-shirts are manufactured in Russia
Awesome, that is "From Russia with style" :)Welcome, may someday I'll be in USA :)
I have uncle in Moscow, if I ever end up there, I will definitely come up for some training
Great work
Your killing it SERJ.I use 90 LPI for images of high quality, higher LPI did not try
Do you use 85 lpi for all this kind of work? Or do you go higher if needed?
Murphy37
Try Jack Single Barrel. If they don't carry it there let me know and I will load up Andrew at the show. Nice prints? Very nice!Does the magic you mentioned involve copious amounts of vodka? :DVodka is not relevant, only Jack Daniel's ;D
I do not know Jack Single BarrelTry Jack Single Barrel. If they don't carry it there let me know and I will load up Andrew at the show. Nice prints? Very nice!Does the magic you mentioned involve copious amounts of vodka? :DVodka is not relevant, only Jack Daniel's ;D
You will. Tell Andrew to bring an extra bag.I do not know Jack Single BarrelTry Jack Single Barrel. If they don't carry it there let me know and I will load up Andrew at the show. Nice prints? Very nice!Does the magic you mentioned involve copious amounts of vodka? :DVodka is not relevant, only Jack Daniel's ;D
Printing on nylon
Color №1 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 90, Y
MagnaPrint® Underbase Grey SL
Color №2 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 90, Y
MagnaPrint® AquaPlussFF
Color №3 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 120.34, Y
MagnaPrint® HB Yellow
Color №3 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 120.34, Y
MagnaPrint® HB Cyan
Color №3 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 120.34, Y
MagnaPrint® HB Magenta
Color №3 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 120.34, Y
MagnaPrint® HB Black
Printing on nylon
Color №1 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 90, Y
MagnaPrint® Underbase Grey SL
Color №2 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 90, Y
MagnaPrint® AquaPlussFF
Color №3 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 120.34, Y
MagnaPrint® HB Yellow
Color №3 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 120.34, Y
MagnaPrint® HB Cyan
Color №3 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 120.34, Y
MagnaPrint® HB Magenta
Color №3 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 120.34, Y
MagnaPrint® HB Black
That's it. I quit.
Are these numbers standard numbers or in German metric or something, I get the 90lpi angle 82.5 I think but mesh ct 90.. 120.34 y whats that in USA standard
Printing on nylon
Color №1 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 90, Y
MagnaPrint® Underbase Grey SL
Color №2 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 90, Y
MagnaPrint® AquaPlussFF
Color №3 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 120.34, Y
MagnaPrint® HB Yellow
Color №3 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 120.34, Y
MagnaPrint® HB Cyan
Color №3 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 120.34, Y
MagnaPrint® HB Magenta
Color №3 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 120.34, Y
MagnaPrint® HB Black
Yes inkjet printer epsonPrinting on nylon
Color №1 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 90, Y
MagnaPrint® Underbase Grey SL
Color №2 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 90, Y
MagnaPrint® AquaPlussFF
Color №3 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 120.34, Y
MagnaPrint® HB Yellow
Color №3 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 120.34, Y
MagnaPrint® HB Cyan
Color №3 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 120.34, Y
MagnaPrint® HB Magenta
Color №3 Elliptical dot, 90 lpi, angle 82.5 degrees, mesh count 120.34, Y
MagnaPrint® HB Black
Are you doing this with inkjet film? I just don't see how the average shop (or above average shop) could pull that off with inkjet.
SERJ,My Range can vary from 2 to 95%, I think I understand your correctament or questions
I would be interest in the minimum dot % that you can hold at 90 lpi.
Are you compressing your tonal range? For example, have you intentionally cut your smallest printable dot to a minimum of 10% as your smallest dot and 90% in the shadow tones?
Have you opened up your middle tones (50% range) at all?
I take it they are metric. 90 mesh count = 225, 120.34 mesh=305-T. Y=yellow I guess.
A sim 7 color we are printing now. While I am not the best separator, I am getting better.
You guys just blew my art post right out the water, nice jobs guys,, really nice print on the lego Al
darryl
Danny, you might be seeing smoother halftone blends with the DC base. Have you tried a side by side?
For my sim process I'm finding everything prints better and easier with dc base.... Right now I'm frickin loving discharge base on our sim process
water base...
In Russia it is very popular :)water base...
Nice Serg. Reminds me of some of the work we did at Harlequin where we had the dye house discharge dye black shirts; incorporating our ink colors and matching to dyestuffs. Print would fade into dye treatment just as you have done. Mirror Image picked up on it. Sadly the days of Stalking Jaguar and Red Eyed Tree Frogs have long since past. Good to see the technique is still alive.
tp
Ok I've seen some awesome prints, but I'm having a problem with that monkey print it looks dam good to good and IMHO it looks photoshop on the shirt. I will apologize in advance if I'm wrong and my unprofessional eyes are seeing wrong, but dude if that's the real mccoy my hats off to you big time.
Just throw up a video with you wearing the shirt and everyone can shut up. :)
We are starting to do a ton of prints with dye treatment shirts where the shirt itself "becomes part of the artwork"........ The guys over at [url=http://www.themountain.me]www.themountain.me[/url] ([url]http://www.themountain.me[/url]) pretty much have that market cornered with dyed shirts/animal prints but we are doing our stuff a bit different with name drops, text, etc...... Looking at the russian's print I would 100% say that it's real because we do stuff like that all the time.... I just haven't been able to post that stuff YET..... For anyone interested in dyed washed garments like this we will be offering it to other shops by this coming summer(we have our own dye operation now to do this)
Fellers I don't want to bash this guy, but I thinking he is using a style of printing I've never seen or done which is not hard for me, Tonypep seems to know about it. I looked at Danny's bear print and compare the two seems like the same style of printing both are killer prints now I'll :-X it and say nice prints.
Fellers I don't want to bash this guy, but I thinking he is using a style of printing I've never seen or done which is not hard for me, Tonypep seems to know about it. I looked at Danny's bear print and compare the two seems like the same style of printing both are killer prints now I'll :-X it and say nice prints.
So you've never seen The Mountain prints?
[url]http://shop.themountain.me/t-shirts-adult/?sort=bestselling[/url] ([url]http://shop.themountain.me/t-shirts-adult/?sort=bestselling[/url])
Bingo!
We did a side by side on a job a year ago and I honestly preferred the plastisol base due to the vibrancy of the print. The colors popped more. Here is today's print (with a slightly blurry picture now that I am looking at it on my computer and not my phone which took it):
225 S underbase
7 colors on 330S
Shimmer Gold on 180S
We wanted to adjust the separations but there was no time so we ran with it. Could be much better but far better than what what we were producing two years ago.
Fellers I don't want to bash this guy, but I thinking he is using a style of printing I've never seen or done which is not hard for me, Tonypep seems to know about it. I looked at Danny's bear print and compare the two seems like the same style of printing both are killer prints now I'll :-X it and say nice prints.
So you've never seen The Mountain prints?
[url]http://shop.themountain.me/t-shirts-adult/?sort=bestselling[/url] ([url]http://shop.themountain.me/t-shirts-adult/?sort=bestselling[/url])
I've seen those prints but just a glance and never thought about it, but no I've never seen there site until yesterday, I would love to see how they print those and take a closer look...I need to get out more :-[
darryl
Fellers I don't want to bash this guy, but I thinking he is using a style of printing I've never seen or done which is not hard for me, Tonypep seems to know about it. I looked at Danny's bear print and compare the two seems like the same style of printing both are killer prints now I'll :-X it and say nice prints.
So you've never seen The Mountain prints?
[url]http://shop.themountain.me/t-shirts-adult/?sort=bestselling[/url] ([url]http://shop.themountain.me/t-shirts-adult/?sort=bestselling[/url])
I've seen those prints but just a glance and never thought about it, but no I've never seen there site until yesterday, I would love to see how they print those and take a closer look...I need to get out more :-[
darryl
I'll tell ya, Daryl, ya gotta hold one in your hand, the work is fantastic.
Steve
ScreenPrinter123 ([url]http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php?action=profile;u=663[/url]),
That is a nice design. Very colorful and vibrant on the black tee. Did you all design that as well as print it?
We did a side by side on a job a year ago and I honestly preferred the plastisol base due to the vibrancy of the print. The colors popped more. Here is today's print (with a slightly blurry picture now that I am looking at it on my computer and not my phone which took it):
225 S underbase
7 colors on 330S
Shimmer Gold on 180S
We wanted to adjust the separations but there was no time so we ran with it. Could be much better but far better than what what we were producing two years ago.
Fellers I don't want to bash this guy, but I thinking he is using a style of printing I've never seen or done which is not hard for me, Tonypep seems to know about it. I looked at Danny's bear print and compare the two seems like the same style of printing both are killer prints now I'll :-X it and say nice prints.
So you've never seen The Mountain prints?
[url]http://shop.themountain.me/t-shirts-adult/?sort=bestselling[/url] ([url]http://shop.themountain.me/t-shirts-adult/?sort=bestselling[/url])
I've seen those prints but just a glance and never thought about it, but no I've never seen there site until yesterday, I would love to see how they print those and take a closer look...I need to get out more :-[
darryl
I'll tell ya, Daryl, ya gotta hold one in your hand, the work is fantastic.
Steve
I'll check around here, but heck this is South Alabama I live in all we get here is Roll tide Shirts and Auburn Shirts..SEC!!!!! LOL
quote author=screenxpress link=topic=73.msg128542#msg128542 date=1415468561]This print in three colors 90 lpi
Man, is that the print or the artwork? Awesome. Colors?
Have not seen the specs on the iImage, and was not aware that it could output at such high resolution(90 lpi)...interesting.
Hoping to see some tones like that shooting out of our new ST next week after install.
Time to sample New England for next year
You print it sideways on the boards right
Nice stuff as usual. I've got a few pics but the jobs are so boring and mostly simple but I'll post them later anyway. Nothing but multi-colored spot jobs on darks. Right now we've got more screen printing jobs in the system than we did all last December, and last year was our best year by a huge margin that we're having a hard time beating last years numbers year to date. We're only up by single % over last year, I guess I didn't realize how good it was last year until I compare this year to it. That's the good and bad about having a record year by a huge margin, the next year can be slightly better but it feels like it was somewhat of a failure.
We are re-visiting 4CP on DC under base...sorry, crappy phone picture.
We are re-visiting 4CP on DC under base...sorry, crappy phone picture.
Orion, YOU CAN"T DO THAT. You can't do 4 color process on black tees. It's not possible....or so I'm told. ;)
To me, thats one of the best prints in this thread this year, (unless someone else has posted 4 color process on black tees) this year. Yes, in deed no doubt about it, achieving great prints with discharge underbase and 6 or more spot colors can be outstanding also, but only 4 colors on top using cmyk, is awesome.
I guess my all time focus is, what can you do with just a few colors? This is what. Very good. Now, I would venture to say that not all designs can make use of this. Each job is going to dictate how it needs to be done.
I guess you can say, for you artist and printers, the design should speak to you. ;)
Very nice Orion.
What kind of press and other equipment?
no where near as good as others, but this is a 7 color print with a DCUB. Seps done in house!
Nice as always Danny. BTW we discharge Delta blacks with no problem. Did you have other problem colors?
Racer nice job dude, but what really counts is what your customers like and what you do to keep them coming back, and yes always trying to improve on your printing is a good thing. I don't think I would ever be on the same ground as Danny and a few other's here, but long as I keep my custy's happy and not let them see these other guys print's I'm fine LOL.
darryl
Very nice.... Jeremy Duncan Art?
Not earth shaking or award winning but the print looks very nice in person.
Nice~They are worth it. Just trying to make up for some late nights.
Lot of work for a couple of girls.
Must be a great dad!! :)
Thanks, Murph - love that heart print you did - looks great.Its not really difficult. As much as it is time consuming ( one more step & all ).
Is foil difficult? I resist change every chance i get, but am looking into new ink systems currently for some special clientele.
I can see why the black looks glossy is because they printed the black on top of that base white... Ink never post a full pic of someone else's print they might be on this board and take offense to that, and no I didn't print that ;D, and know you mean no harm but just not cool.
darryl
we have Dundie awards around here...mine is printing platens.
Hoodies... set up print. 6 colors, 305's, 230 highlight white and 110 underbase.
Art profile, very good tone on the grayscale photo. Good depth.
Hoodies... set up print. 6 colors, 305's, 230 highlight white and 110 underbase.Nice man, I see some of the guys on street outlaws wearing these shirts LOL...... I used to race pro stock a few years back so I know a lot of the drag racing folks out there....Do you guys race? I'm assuming based on the t-shirt above LOL
HA! I LOVE LOVE LOVE that kinda work Artprofile. Great job!
Any of those (campfire) for sale?
Nice work! Danny did you use DC underbase on the black, just curious as to why it was double stroked.
Do you have any issues with the base gaining or acting weird with a double hit? I know we are worlds apart when it comes to setup/process, but I can't for the life of me double hit a tonal base without it gaining all to hell and looking like trash.
Suggesting Rutland white plus. Side by side its noticeably better for us. Has a slight blue shade. You'll see just by looking at the wet ink.
tear it apart
This epic thread could intimidate even a great printshop, which we CLEARLY are not.
tear it apart
Tear what apart? That looks clean.
Murphy37
thank you - first simulated on our new press...i need to work on my sep skills....
Danny that looks fantastic for HSA. 8 screens is impressive for that art and ink. 2x hsa underbase or DC ub? How many flashes and where? From our experience with HSA I think we would need a 14 head press and 3 flashes at a bare minimum to print something like that all hsa.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Danny that looks fantastic for HSA. 8 screens is impressive for that art and ink. 2x hsa underbase or DC ub? How many flashes and where? From our experience with HSA I think we would need a 14 head press and 3 flashes at a bare minimum to print something like that all hsa.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
On this one with hsa I printed a double base and no highlight.... If it was plastic it would have been single base plus top white but I eliminated the top white in exchange for two bases... I revolved the base and my production was right around 300 pcs per hour which I felt for HSA on a design like this was acceptable
1. Comet White base
Flash
2. Comet White base
Cool
Dark Blue
Light Blue
Green
Red
All the above colors are wet on wet - no issues...... Pallet temp was key for me along with pressure/speed
Flash
Yellow
Black
7 screens total w/ technically 3 flashes but really 2...... I could have setup 2 base screens but I didn't have a big enough run of these to justify that. If I had 3 flashes that were available I could have printed this job with 1 rotation and done. It would have ran approx 600 pcs/hr if I had 3 flashes on the machine but I only have 2. With my new oval I will have 4-5 flashes on that press so I feel we can do work like this all day long 600 pcs/hr at a minimum which I feel is acceptable
tear it apart
This epic thread could intimidate even a great printshop, which we CLEARLY are not.
But we make good money on these during the season, and NOW is the season! We've got a Shocker Fanwear Room in the front of the store where we do limited edition runs. Lots of foily, blingy, wimmen's kinda stuff. Heck! I'm the only man in my shop, period.
So here goes. One of my amateurish, spot color wonders.
We have trouble with our Wichita State Gold Discharge looking greenish, so I mix 20 parts CCI D-Flo Yellow to 5 parts D-Flo Tangerine and 3%ZFS, 3% Mastui Penetrant, spritz a little water if the run is long. The rest is easy, all CCI DC WB. Wilflex HD Clear PFP for the foil adhesive. Gold Crown Foil, 60#, 10 seconds, 350, peel cold. Manual Front, Auto Back (not shown).
Sorry for all the abbreviations, I'm in a hurry this morning.
I've not printed a single thing in 7 years that matches up to the best stuff on here, but I buy my own groceries.
So. (Wow, this thumbnail looks blurry, but if you click on it you can see better. Weird)
we have been doing nothing but crazy complicated DC and WB sim process jobs, with awful artwork. This one is a dumb/fun one. Two color WB. as usual nothing as complex as most.
we have been doing nothing but crazy complicated DC and WB sim process jobs, with awful artwork. This one is a dumb/fun one. Two color WB. as usual nothing as complex as most.
we have been doing nothing but crazy complicated DC and WB sim process jobs, with awful artwork. This one is a dumb/fun one. Two color WB. as usual nothing as complex as most.
Looks like someone flicked a boogie on the shirt! ;D
we have been doing nothing but crazy complicated DC and WB sim process jobs, with awful artwork. This one is a dumb/fun one. Two color WB. as usual nothing as complex as most.
This looks great!
How did that other one go?
Looks really, really nice.
I'm always amazed how so many colors 'appear' to be there in sim process with just 3 top colors. Green and other colors appear to be in the print but are not.
A 5 colors simulated process
A 5 colors simulated process
Looks good. These types of dark pastel muted jobs can be tricky.
Is that a Base white, Yellow, Ice Blue, Red, Top white ?
Real nice!225-S on base and top white. 305 top colors.
What mesh counts?
6 colors on a manual. This is the first one that I have done the art, seps and print myself. Also first shot at a discharge underbase. Can't believe how light the print is!
These look great Racer! Can you say a bit more about your setup? Are you using a rip (and which one)? What printer/ink/film? What ink brand/system? Emulsion and exposure setup?
I also a manual printer and these look fantastic. Would love to be able to compare my setup and see how I might improve...
Super simple print we just did, but i'm STOKED on it. Really bright White HSA WB prints on a couple of different Next Level Burnouts. They are so soft and looks good!
Also, i'd really like to thank Chris/Zoo, Brandon, and Kevin from River City for all the HSA WB help! Also everyone that posted in that thread i made, made it possible to do these like this!
Super simple prints, nothing crazy. Just every time we run water base metallics I just love it. Three color water base on charcoal. Black water base down first, metallic silver next, quick flash, and gold metallic last. The prints are beyond soft and out sparkle any metallic plastisol I have ever seen or used. And clean up is a breeze!
Super simple prints, nothing crazy. Just every time we run water base metallics I just love it. Three color water base on charcoal. Black water base down first, metallic silver next, quick flash, and gold metallic last. The prints are beyond soft and out sparkle any metallic plastisol I have ever seen or used. And clean up is a breeze!
Waterbased metallic are awesome. Way better than pls IMO and you can tint silver with PCs
Another 6 color simproc- DC ubase, red, royal, grey, gold, proc white...
Super simple prints, nothing crazy. Just every time we run water base metallics I just love it. Three color water base on charcoal. Black water base down first, metallic silver next, quick flash, and gold metallic last. The prints are beyond soft and out sparkle any metallic plastisol I have ever seen or used. And clean up is a breeze!
Waterbased metallic are awesome. Way better than pls IMO and you can tint silver with PCs
Which metallic (rfu or are you tinting?) and what print specs brandon (mesh, etc). Looks great!
Looks really, really nice.
I'm always amazed how so many colors 'appear' to be there in sim process with just 3 top colors. Green and other colors appear to be in the print but are not.
As am I. Even when I was doing the seps I was a little hesitant about believing what I was seeing on screen, but I just trusted the seps, and it came out pretty slick!
Looks really, really nice.
I'm always amazed how so many colors 'appear' to be there in sim process with just 3 top colors. Green and other colors appear to be in the print but are not.
As am I. Even when I was doing the seps I was a little hesitant about believing what I was seeing on screen, but I just trusted the seps, and it came out pretty slick!
Quick question if you don't mind: when separating did you set your background to a blue color (to represent the garment color)? I'm trying to figure how else you were able to build those green colors? Thanks!
Very nice job Wolf!!, I'd wear that T-shirt in a heart beat....
darryl
Great print. Is that one blue going to the shirt color? Good underbase if it is.[/font][/size][/color]
Here is a recent print of ours... turned out pretty nice I think!
Here is a recent print of ours... turned out pretty nice I think!
7 color sim process we printed today. Only our second process print on our sroque.
7 color sim process we printed today. Only our second process print on our sroque.
Not to be an azz the top lettering throws me off some..kinda blending in or maybe it's just the pic, but far as printing and art very nice job 8)
Very nice Sergey, we met quickly at Fespa, you are a master 8)Hi, was glad to meet you thank you!
Damn good work Serj, you never cease to amaze!Thank you!
as always SERJ: Great work... I strive to print as nice as your work comes out.Hi, I'm doing all the work on the manual Chameleon 6x6
I know in the past some of your stuff was on a manual, which makes it that much more impressive? Is any of your latest work on an auto?
WOW.. Very nice work !thank you
Jvanik also verrrry nice. Do tell. 3 colors?
Dam!!!! those are some very nice prints, I would love to take a class from you Serj hands on printing from art to burn screens whole nine yards.OK! I'm ready :)
darryl
Dam!!!! those are some very nice prints, I would love to take a class from you Serj hands on printing from art to burn screens whole nine yards.
Me too... I would love to apprentice with you.. always amazed at your prints SERJ.
Dam!!!! those are some very nice prints, I would love to take a class from you Serj hands on printing from art to burn screens whole nine yards.Are you ready to come to Russia?
Me too... I would love to apprentice with you.. always amazed at your prints SERJ.
Dam!!!! those are some very nice prints, I would love to take a class from you Serj hands on printing from art to burn screens whole nine yards.Are you ready to come to Russia?
Me too... I would love to apprentice with you.. always amazed at your prints SERJ.
Serj... I hear you have really Hot Women, Great Vodka and exceptional Fly Fishing in Russia a field trip might be in order.
Serj... I hear you have really Hot Women, Great Vodka and exceptional Fly Fishing in Russia a field trip might be in order.
hot women in a northern country? I have not seen ...Dam!!!! those are some very nice prints, I would love to take a class from you Serj hands on printing from art to burn screens whole nine yards.Are you ready to come to Russia?
Me too... I would love to apprentice with you.. always amazed at your prints SERJ.
Serj... I hear you have really Hot Women, Great Vodka and exceptional Fly Fishing in Russia a field trip might be in order.
hot women in a northern country? I have not seen ...
translayte normalhot women in a northern country? I have not seen ...
HA! Either a great sense of humor or something lost in translation.
Brandt, is that the best you can do? You should quit!
Serj, do you do any work that is not outstanding? ;D
Brandt nice bright, clean looking prints as usual. Do y'all ever use dc ubase?
Racer T, looks like you don't need Dan anymore. Nice print! Discharge?
Serj, do you do any work that is not outstanding? ;DSometimes, when customers do not pay ... this is a joke ;D
Brandt nice bright, clean looking prints as usual. Do y'all ever use dc ubase?
Here is another recent one of ours... this is one of the first set up prints.
Nice color on this one... Simproc seven color, printed on white sport grey and black garments.great job!
You all do such great work. I'm proud to be a part of this group. It is truly different than any other group on Facebook or another screen orint forum. The quality level is up there for most everyone and for those not there yet, it's been proven that you will.Completely agree, love stalking this place. So much info from way better printers than I am. I hope some day to be as good as most of yall. Thanks for help along the way!
I remember when some if you were just trying your first difficult multi color sim process job and look at you now. Seriously, stop and take a look back at where you were just 3-5 yrs ago and what you have learned and what your capable of now. Feels good right?
Raise your glass high!
this is another fun one we did, REALLY last minute. We had a booth at the Houston Pride Festival.
These were printing at 6:30pm on Friday, 7 color Waterbased Split Fountain. All the fanny packs and hats were digital transfers that we did live at the event.
this is another fun one we did, REALLY last minute. We had a booth at the Houston Pride Festival.
These were printing at 6:30pm on Friday, 7 color Waterbased Split Fountain. All the fanny packs and hats were digital transfers that we did live at the event.
this is another fun one we did, REALLY last minute. We had a booth at the Houston Pride Festival.We couldn't print enough of these! We were sold out within the first 4 hrs. each day! Sold close to 500 of them over 2 days, got a taste of selling retail and now I want more:P
These were printing at 6:30pm on Friday, 7 color Waterbased Split Fountain. All the fanny packs and hats were digital transfers that we did live at the event.
probably halftoned the states.
Some fun stuff we did the other day. Nothing crazy just set up and print. HSA on the raglan and discharge on the Gildans. I have been having some serious family medical emergencies for awhile now so I am lucky every week we always have some fun and cool artwork to print. Just gives that extra bit of fun to the process for myself.
Hey Eric,
we just started actually. We are doing a packaged tour with them and a few other bands soon and our sales guy knows them. One of those kind of things
Hey Eric,
we just started actually. We are doing a packaged tour with them and a few other bands soon and our sales guy knows them. One of those kind of things
they've always been a little weird to us! But i'm happy friends are doing it, and not jerks in town!
6 color simproc, no dc underbase, printed on gildan 50/50...
Re-did my neighbors logo. Overall pretty happy. First DC underbase.
For this print, he originally deemed it as 4 color simulated process (but customer needed black in the print for other shirt colors) I guess. So, The fact that he was using halftones may not signify true "sim" process, but it is multi color with halftone work and a pretty good job at printing it.
brandon do you work with tinman merch?
we are the only one's in town that print them or nutty enough to fool with them LOL.
????????
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6 color simproc, all plasti ink...Cool. I like that a lot.
SELF CRACK + CMYK
SERJ - your stuff is absolutely amazing...And he makes it sound so easy too. "four colors, waterbased" piece of cake:)
stupid question... are these handouts for Magna? Just curious as most of them say 'printed using Magnacolors' at the bottom?
Pretty slick and much faster than earlier versions. Downside. Foil will tarnish a titch in the dryer. Most end users may not care hover. Takes some of the bling out of it and sometimes that's a good thing
That in-line foiling setup is dope. I wasn't aware that those actually worked!
On press foiling with our roq oval. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAEhQFz-39M&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAEhQFz-39M&feature=youtu.be)
On press foiling with our roq oval. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAEhQFz-39M&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAEhQFz-39M&feature=youtu.be)
That is pretty slick, but once you run the foil through the dryer doesn't it dull it way down? I mean with a dark blue it wouldn't be that bad, but when you are doing large Gold Foils?
Today we ran bright silver, gold, pink and blue foil with no change from before the dryer to after the dryer....... I think it all depends on the brand of foil
SERJ What magna products were in each screen and did you add any additives?I used Magnaprint HB
Sorry if it's been asked already but Serj what emulsion are you using?Emulsion ULANO QLT
three colors, Magnaprint Discharge AB AW
Nothing too difficult, but it came out very clean and the client loved it.
Nothing too difficult, but it came out very clean and the client loved it.
Love that one. yes, it is clean. I like the easy read of it and well printed.
ОК 8)three colors, Magnaprint Discharge AB AW
Ok, SERJ, These are too easy for you. We challenge you to challenge yourself. To do this quality printing... and also add in a PUFF ink, with the inks printed over top the puff, then also add in some foil, or Glitter and/or, some HIGH DENSITY inks scattered into the design on your manual. ;) Everyone should be stretched, even the best of us.
ОК 8)three colors, Magnaprint Discharge AB AW
Ok, SERJ, These are too easy for you. We challenge you to challenge yourself. To do this quality printing... and also add in a PUFF ink, with the inks printed over top the puff, then also add in some foil, or Glitter and/or, some HIGH DENSITY inks scattered into the design on your manual. ;) Everyone should be stretched, even the best of us.
Scott is the EBAD shirt all DC or just the underbase?
Danny that is so awesome to foil inline, 450 prhr one man is off the hook must be grossing better than $1300 per hr
I was visiting Dan at Forward last week his foil application head is sitting in the corner getting dusty guess they struggle a bit getting it working as smooth as you.
Danny the rendering on that duct tape is superb! In house artist doing these seps? If so, color me jealous.
Here's a sim process one from today. Thought it was pretty cool, tape looks real on the shirt. All the rips and everything are just white/black halftones so we can print on multiple color shirts.... 8 screens total on this one with the underbase and top white
Great flatstock print.
That paper is crazy, does it print ok?
Interesting. I figured the surface would be difficult to put ink on to. 5500 series?
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Here's one off the press from today, pretty neat artwork..... Just a real basic greyscale sep with a couple screens on this one - 73 lpi...... 270 mesh
Photo does not do the print justice as it looks wayyyyyy cleaner in person
Another one for this client.......The place is a strip joint so we are printing lots of sexy women LOL.......... We just print for trade 8) ;D :P.... Just playin LOL
8 screens on this one, 55 lpi... We had to print multiple color shirts, doesn't look quite as good on this weird color shirt as it does on heather black I'll try to get a pic of that before they ship
([url]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/20/3b33fa562fd5d0cb78c4bc7a6698db43.jpg[/url])
([url]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/20/a452c8990ad3dffff919475e4281a401.jpg[/url])
3 Dimensional Twill Appliqué....
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Well don AA! Especially at that LPI and few colors used!
Shirtsshack,
That's a pretty nice print. Good color differences.
Funny thibg about sharpening squeegees. I was in a pretty big shop a few month back and happened to ask the mgr. How often he retentions his screens. He says "after every print order." I say oh, that great. So how often do you sharpen your squeegees? He says "after every print order". Really? Yup. But his orders average about 1000 + so yes he does more, but dang, every order? Must go through a lot of rubber. They do however, produce Steller work every day.
Printing in four colors ,plastizol.
Serj... what kind of mesh counts are you using to support the 90lpi... asking because we've been doing some shockingly nice 85pi work on 225S screens knowing that we'll lose the lowest and highest percentages and compensating in the screen prep.
Oh come now, you know we can't do 85-90 Lpi in a tee shirt.Why?
;)
Oh come now, you know we can't do 85-90 Lpi in a tee shirt.Why?
;)
Is 120 cm mesh like our 305 mеsh?
Yes.
I know this is pretty amateur compared to the other things posted here, but I'm proud of it anyway lol. First Seps job I've printed on my auto, 5 colors, flash between every color, PFP on the base
I just wanted to point out that the tag line at the bottom of the print is prolly incorrectly spelled in this case.Heck! If your correct you should at least get a free t-shirt out of the deal.
I haven't seen anything like that in awhile very nice. What is the ink? Plastisol or discharge
Hopefully we have the spelling good on this one lmao!!!
Just got done testing this one here in the shop tonight, we have a new collection of these we are debuting here in a couple weeks at trade show. 8 color sim process on this with discharge base. 55 lpi on this one but thought it came out really nice, all the colors are custom mix using flo pigments. I'll be sampling 6 more of these this weekend which have different looks(not all neons) that I will post up as I thought this style was pretty sweet.
Hopefully we have the spelling good on this one lmao!!!
Just got done testing this one here in the shop tonight, we have a new collection of these we are debuting here in a couple weeks at trade show. 8 color sim process on this with discharge base. 55 lpi on this one but thought it came out really nice, all the colors are custom mix using flo pigments. I'll be sampling 6 more of these this weekend which have different looks(not all neons) that I will post up as I thought this style was pretty sweet.
One question I have is, what camera do you use and under what light do you take your pics , they always look really vibrant
I'm surprised nobody saw that I had a mis spelling on that design.... LOL..... Thought it would be funny but maybe nobody noticed this time ;D
You get to do all the fun stuff man.....
Nice work!
You get to do all the fun stuff man.....
Nice work!
We CHOOSE to do the fun stuff LOL
Thanks guys, there's surely a lot of not so nice/cool stuff that comes out of here like everywhere else LOL...... We try to put out good stuff but we have our struggles like most people.
Here's a couple more part of this same collection of prints
The eagle is just 5 color - white, grey, red, yellow, white
The horse is 7 color total - white, teal, yellow, red, blue, white, black
Just a new style of artwork that we are releasing for our resort market, thought it was pretty cool.
Honestly there's a lot of guys here and not here that can out do what we do..... They just keep their stuff under wraps and dont like sharing I guess LOL..... But we still have a long ways to get to where I want to be, sure are trying though.
@underpressureSP these are great!Yep we are in Austin.
are you in Austin?
@underpressureSP these are great!Yep we are in Austin.
are you in Austin?
I wish we had a need for that ink but currently we just run TW for our clients. I would post on gigposters.com and I bet someone will take that ink off your hands.@underpressureSP these are great!Yep we are in Austin.
are you in Austin?
we have a WALL full of speedball and UV ink. would you guys want it for cheap?
Serj that looks as if it could jump right off the T-shirt or whatever it's printed on, I would love to see a vid of you all doing some of those amazing prints, I got a strong feeling I would play hell trying to burn your film's and get what your getting >:( ;DHere's what happened https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_NKiBvuw4s&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_NKiBvuw4s&feature=youtu.be)
darryl
Serg,Will be later :)
Thanks for the Video.
More please.
Here is a couple of 7 color jobs including ub and highlight whites that we printed today. You have to love printing comfort colors lol. I bet I stopped every 50 shirts to apply more adhesive. By the way zane, that is a killer one color print.
Here is a couple of 7 color jobs including ub and highlight whites that we printed today. You have to love printing comfort colors lol. I bet I stopped every 50 shirts to apply more adhesive. By the way zane, that is a killer one color print.
Nice, what are you using for your base white on those?
Here is a couple of 7 color jobs including ub and highlight whites that we printed today. You have to love printing comfort colors lol. I bet I stopped every 50 shirts to apply more adhesive. By the way zane, that is a killer one color print.
Nice, what are you using for your base white on those?
Thanks! I'm using Legacy white with 5% process clear additive.
You're lucky if you make it 50 shirts before needing to re-apply glue, or scrub the back of screens from all the extra fuzz those damn things have on 'em.
Few prints:
Few prints:
That artist of yours is probably tired of doing cars and trucks all the time. How about expanding your market and go after the National Floral Society or something. Im sure he would like to do flowers. ;)
Nice work as expected.
ClevePrint,
Just ok? Those look fantastic! Love that.
Three colors,Magnaprint HB Opaque
Just thought I'd share. Nothing crazy, but here is a 4 color print ran on our new Workhorse Cutlass. 300 ran in 2 ish hours. Really loving this new press.
Just thought I'd share. Nothing crazy, but here is a 4 color print ran on our new Workhorse Cutlass. 300 ran in 2 ish hours. Really loving this new press.
Nothing at all wrong with that. Nice!
Just thought I'd share. Nothing crazy, but here is a 4 color print ran on our new Workhorse Cutlass. 300 ran in 2 ish hours. Really loving this new press.
Alan do you hold a license for that fraternity stuff?
Colege
I hold the LICENSE! I pay royalties every month! YOU CAN NOT PRINT IF YOU DONT HOLD THE LICENSE, NOT YOUR CLIENT HOLDING IT! Pisses me off to see shops doing it ILLEGALLY because I PAY EVERY MONTH! They will sue your ass if you do it illegally.
I really don't think you need a license if you are printing for a license holder. I know of four license holders here in Austin for Greek life and they "print" the vast majority of that work. None of them are printers, just brokers. I can think of a dozen shops that have printed for them though, and none of them also hold licenses that I know of...
To be clear, the shops are not dealing with the end clients, and affinity is getting their cut on the goods (as far as I know). I know this kind of relationship applies to lots of other licenses...
I do know if a sorority member walked into my shop and asked for something to be printed I would tell them no...
Finished this project this week. 4 color poster for flying lotus at 24x16. Black Light ink is TW Clear mixes with Nazdar flo pigments and black tw ink key layer. Also I printed and designed this napalm death poster I made last week on fisheye mirror lens squares 30x20. Same inks.
Fantastic Alex! How did that job run regarding dry-in and what lpi and such?Haha! Let's see, I'll chalk it up to ignorance and luck! We keep spray bottles with water and retarder in them and spray a lot! Changing of seasons here the humidity on press(well the gauge we have on the press) when we were printing these was 25% one day, and 42% the very next day.
We've found that DC does ok on our finer mesh at 55lpi+ but WB likes to clog out too rapidly and we lose low % range dots. Our humidity situation being the presumable culprit. It's led me to go with DC UB + plasti on art like this v. straight WB/DC which would often be preferred.
Fantastic Alex! How did that job run regarding dry-in and what lpi and such?Haha! Let's see, I'll chalk it up to ignorance and luck! We keep spray bottles with water and retarder in them and spray a lot! Changing of seasons here the humidity on press(well the gauge we have on the press) when we were printing these was 25% one day, and 42% the very next day.
We've found that DC does ok on our finer mesh at 55lpi+ but WB likes to clog out too rapidly and we lose low % range dots. Our humidity situation being the presumable culprit. It's led me to go with DC UB + plasti on art like this v. straight WB/DC which would often be preferred.
Screens were all 200s, except the white which was a 180s.
Have 2 other really cool designs from the same artist coming up this week. I'll post them if we don't botch them! ;)
Thanks guys!
Finished this project this week. 4 color poster for flying lotus at 24x16. Black Light ink is TW Clear mixes with Nazdar flo pigments and black tw ink key layer. Also I printed and designed this napalm death poster I made last week on fisheye mirror lens squares 30x20. Same inks.
These are crazy, love them! Would kill to be at that Napalm Death/Melvins/Melt Banana show.
Also love the larger format, can't help but always want flatstock to print super big. That must be nice to scratch that itch.
What press are you running these on out of curiosity? I never had much success at larger print size with the old American clamshells I used with TW inks, it was dicey work at best and required careful tuning of the ink rheology. I determined that a 4 post or parallel lift would be ideal for the larger stuff.
Nice Jason, just out of curiosity, what line count? It looks really smooth.
Brandt, you are definitely the vehicle printing king. Very nice. I remember riding around in an old dodge with the vinyl wood grain down the side. lol
Brandt, you are definitely the vehicle printing king. Very nice. I remember riding around in an old dodge with the vinyl wood grain down the side. lol
I dunno that we are the king but I think we are pretty good at it ;)
Quick little 3 color done this morning...
8 color simulation on black tees
Happy Hooker, surrender your booty? Love it, nice job Anthony.
I really like the pups in the ammo box. Sim process?
Here's a few fun ones I did recently.
([url]http://i.imgur.com/do4qO56h.jpg[/url])
([url]http://i.imgur.com/9UQbTQoh.jpg[/url])
([url]http://i.imgur.com/jYEKqKuh.jpg[/url])
([url]http://i.imgur.com/nQV12MGh.jpg[/url])
These look great! do you print up in college station?
Here's a few fun ones I did recently.
([url]http://i.imgur.com/do4qO56h.jpg[/url])
([url]http://i.imgur.com/9UQbTQoh.jpg[/url])
([url]http://i.imgur.com/jYEKqKuh.jpg[/url])
([url]http://i.imgur.com/nQV12MGh.jpg[/url])
These look great! do you print up in college station?
([url]http://i.imgur.com/nQV12MGh.jpg[/url])
How did you print the pocket. On an auto? If so how?
Shane
Do you do pocket in board or ? My sleeve boards are 6" across.
Shane
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A few more we did for this client. Again, not sim process, but I just love the artwork this guy comes with!([url]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160425/d6d70375e737c8bf5185b97a737fdc33.jpg[/url])([url]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160425/342b01145f0d06d1137435f73a8989e2.jpg[/url])([url]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160425/38b84d1e6df7211e108c985f538f22b1.jpg[/url])
A few more we did for this client. Again, not sim process, but I just love the artwork this guy comes with!([url]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160425/d6d70375e737c8bf5185b97a737fdc33.jpg[/url])([url]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160425/342b01145f0d06d1137435f73a8989e2.jpg[/url])([url]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160425/38b84d1e6df7211e108c985f538f22b1.jpg[/url])
You are always printing for the artists I like most.
Nice printing Serj! I saw that a lot of your images were used in an article on water based inks in the June 2016 issue of Printwear magazine. You're world famous dude! 8)Thank you Dale, I'm not the world-famous,it's a Magna ;D
I've got to say, that's awesome. What brand of process ink do you use?Wilflex.
Who's rear end is that?Ha.ha....some girl he knows.
Another one from today...I Friggin' love this print! Did you guys make the art?
Serj, How are you getting a 90DPI screen? I-Image and MH bulb?I hope correctly understood the question :)I use 120 mesh, emulsion ULANO QLT, How bad do not know the English language ... :)
Serj, How are you getting a 90DPI screen? I-Image and MH bulb?I hope correctly understood the question :)I use 120 mesh, emulsion ULANO QLT, How bad do not know the English language ... :)
Another one from today...I Friggin' love this print! Did you guys make the art?
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Serj, How are you getting a 90DPI screen? I-Image and MH bulb?I hope correctly understood the question :)I use 120 mesh, emulsion ULANO QLT, How bad do not know the English language ... :)
SERJ -- what's your film output device? Epson?
How do you know everything? :D
How do you know everything? :D
One of two ways, you decide. When in the Navy I spied on Mother Russia, old habits are hard to break. :o The other way...we are friends on Facebook. ;D
Some transfers we did for hats that turned out pretty damn good, literally got lucky with some transparency type stuff happening between the white / black.
Big ass transfers with metallic gold, on Otto 39-165, turned out much better than we expected for how small the details are. Opened up the chains for production but I don't have a photo of the hats after we made them look more dialed.
Printing on synthetics,Magnaprint Underbase Grey + Magnaprint High Build
Underbase Grey mesh 62,Magnaprint High Build mesh 43 stencil 100 micronsPrinting on synthetics,Magnaprint Underbase Grey + Magnaprint High Build
Can you share information on profile and mesh selection for this job?
Very nice. Love the grays.
Awesome print Orion!
Just curious are these high schools huge?
I can't imagine the high schools around me going for elaborate high color prints... they always want the cheapest route.
Brandon, did you use a grey underbase for the " Neobliviscaris" job?
Full Spectrum,
I think you should post this into another section all by it'self. It will get lost here quickly and your post is more educational rather than jsut showing off your latest good print witch is what this thread is about.
If you want, we can move it for you. Probably should go under the Screen Printing (separations category). It will stay up at the top longer and in a category where people will find it easier.
Magnaprint HB 6 colors
in the grand scheme of things, we all have generally the same equipment and products...How are you getting that kind of detail to transfer to the knit of a shirt? amazing....
Lesson time with SERJ, maybe some youtube vids, I'd be happy to pay for some of that knowledge. hold a small online class somehow...has to be in the seps or something, that is insane detail..
in the grand scheme of things, we all have generally the same equipment and products...How are you getting that kind of detail to transfer to the knit of a shirt? amazing....
Lesson time with SERJ, maybe some youtube vids, I'd be happy to pay for some of that knowledge. hold a small online class somehow...has to be in the seps or something, that is insane detail..
in the grand scheme of things, we all have generally the same equipment and products...How are you getting that kind of detail to transfer to the knit of a shirt? amazing....
Lesson time with SERJ, maybe some youtube vids, I'd be happy to pay for some of that knowledge. hold a small online class somehow...has to be in the seps or something, that is insane detail..
It is above and beyond that does make you question your own abilities and knowledge, but can be used in a positive manner to step up your own game. I've got a set of films here (somewhere under a pile of junk) that is going to test our abilities and hopefully it will be somewhere close to SERJ's work. It was done by one of the best artists in the industry and the film is from an OYO Techstyler. I've also got some tricks to get our screens in top form (cap film w/ direct emulsion). Our problem this time last year when we started this project was our expo unit, art/artist and our screens were good, but not great and now that we've straightened those issues out I need to find that film and give it another go. When Joe came to visit last summer we were going to do this project to submit a shirt for the next ISS competition but we ran into the previously mentioned problems (they aren't problems unless you're trying to reach a level of print quality like SERJ and other competition winners and competitors are doing) and had to put the project on hold. I started looking for the film this morning and so far I haven't turned them up, which is freaking me out a little bit.
Where in the hell would I have put the most important set of film we have ever had? I've looked in all of my usual spots...
in the grand scheme of things, we all have generally the same equipment and products...How are you getting that kind of detail to transfer to the knit of a shirt? amazing....Here are some https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_NKiBvuw4s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_NKiBvuw4s)
Lesson time with SERJ, maybe some youtube vids, I'd be happy to pay for some of that knowledge. hold a small online class somehow...has to be in the seps or something, that is insane detail..
in the grand scheme of things, we all have generally the same equipment and products...How are you getting that kind of detail to transfer to the knit of a shirt? amazing....
Lesson time with SERJ, maybe some youtube vids, I'd be happy to pay for some of that knowledge. hold a small online class somehow...has to be in the seps or something, that is insane detail..
It is above and beyond that does make you question your own abilities and knowledge, but can be used in a positive manner to step up your own game. I've got a set of films here (somewhere under a pile of junk) that is going to test our abilities and hopefully it will be somewhere close to SERJ's work. It was done by one of the best artists in the industry and the film is from an OYO Techstyler. I've also got some tricks to get our screens in top form (cap film w/ direct emulsion). Our problem this time last year when we started this project was our expo unit, art/artist and our screens were good, but not great and now that we've straightened those issues out I need to find that film and give it another go. When Joe came to visit last summer we were going to do this project to submit a shirt for the next ISS competition but we ran into the previously mentioned problems (they aren't problems unless you're trying to reach a level of print quality like SERJ and other competition winners and competitors are doing) and had to put the project on hold. I started looking for the film this morning and so far I haven't turned them up, which is freaking me out a little bit.
Where in the hell would I have put the most important set of film we have ever had? I've looked in all of my usual spots...
It is like trying to hunt down all the worker bees when you should focus on the queen. You gotta see the forest for the trees.... the screenprint for the halftones.
You can spend countless hours testing all these other variables, and then change only one thing about how you separate and create your halftones and suddenly it has more impact than all the other variables combined. Have you tested this variable?
Simple discharge and HSA on triblends. Gray Discharge (can't tell in photo), black water base, white HSA, quick flash and the yellow HSA. The shirt is way better in person. And so thin I could not imagine printing plastisol on these.What brand of HSA do you use?
Serj is a genius, look at those results printing by hand on statics.
Amazing art, amazing technique. Bravo.
Simple discharge and HSA on triblends. Gray Discharge (can't tell in photo), black water base, white HSA, quick flash and the yellow HSA. The shirt is way better in person. And so thin I could not imagine printing plastisol on these.What brand of HSA do you use?
We had to work with very marginal photos so you can only polish a turd so much.
We had to work with very marginal photos so you can only polish a turd so much.
Hahaha. We get a lot of files like that here. Some are just impossible.
Oh, we used to use Permaset Supercover back in 2007. Great inks, even harder to get here though.Simple discharge and HSA on triblends. Gray Discharge (can't tell in photo), black water base, white HSA, quick flash and the yellow HSA. The shirt is way better in person. And so thin I could not imagine printing plastisol on these.What brand of HSA do you use?
Permaset SuperCover line. Great inks but hard to get in the States. We will see what happens
I haven't seen any or many getting results like this.Tension screenns 25 N
We keep hearing about the necessity to use extreme high tension on retentionable frames to get the detail Serj gets.
Serj what tension are your screens?
Very Nicely done Danny!
How many times did you need to go back for re-seps? 65+lpi?
Brandon: Wish we had more call for water base man - You're killin it as always!
do you do all the sizzle pie prints? their stuff is great!
Also, that pocket print is so cool. how'd you do that?
Nothing too wild. 5-color sim process on a nasty Crimson comfort colors tee.
([url]http://i.imgur.com/A2IRf33m.jpg[/url])
Nothing too wild. 5-color sim process on a nasty Crimson comfort colors tee.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/A2IRf33m.jpg[img]
Really nice job considering the color count on this! You guys do the seps in-house?
Nothing too wild. 5-color sim process on a nasty Crimson comfort colors tee.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/A2IRf33m.jpg[img]
Really nice job considering the color count on this! You guys do the seps in-house?
Sure did. Started in sep-studio, then into PS for tweaking and color adjustments.
Nothing too wild. 5-color sim process on a nasty Crimson comfort colors tee.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/A2IRf33m.jpg[img]
Really nice job considering the color count on this! You guys do the seps in-house?
Sure did. Started in sep-studio, then into PS for tweaking and color adjustments.
I don't understand why you would have to still use PS after using another separation program that works outside of PS. Why would you have to "tweak" and make "color adjustments" in another program after using a dedicated color-separation program? Also, you realize you can get the separations directly in photoshop using defaults right? So if you are using photoshop anyway, why are you using this other program to generate the color separations which can easily be done directly in photoshop and more accurately with the selective-color tool? Just make your seps right in photoshop, or go with a more professional separation solution. Does the program you're using even generate the halftones or leave it up to you or another program you have to buy??
Nothing too wild. 5-color sim process on a nasty Crimson comfort colors tee.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/A2IRf33m.jpg[img]
Really nice job considering the color count on this! You guys do the seps in-house?
Sure did. Started in sep-studio, then into PS for tweaking and color adjustments.
I don't understand why you would have to still use PS after using another separation program that works outside of PS. Why would you have to "tweak" and make "color adjustments" in another program after using a dedicated color-separation program? Also, you realize you can get the separations directly in photoshop using defaults right? So if you are using photoshop anyway, why are you using this other program to generate the color separations which can easily be done directly in photoshop and more accurately with the selective-color tool? Just make your seps right in photoshop, or go with a more professional separation solution. Does the program you're using even generate the halftones or leave it up to you or another program you have to buy??
That's just the way I did it,how I like to do it, and it turned out pretty damn good. Don't really care to hear your ramblings when I'm doing what works for me.
Murphy,I'll do my best. This is with my phone and a loupe. This was done with all your guy's equipment. BTW.
My hays one odd looking horse but it's certainly a fantastic print. Great detail. Can you take a blow up image under a loop to see how the dots are blending?
Murphy- wow, that looks almost stochastic under magnification.Yes. I-Image.
Is this CTS imaging I presume, given the ultra high lpi?
Nothing really grand, just my first attempt at Image Star silicon ink. This stuff is amazing. Prints great wet on wet and the feel is...like...silicon. Soft and stretchy. Not a bit of dye migration from those ugly Sport Tec Sublimated Camo's.
I have to say, I have never seen a print here that isn't worthy. I am in awe of some of the prints I see here. I hope some day I have something deserving of being viewed here. You all are killing it.We could always set up an opposite thread of dodgy prints? I would be able to contribute to that a fair bit...
Serj, I'm willing to bet if you where in the states here you'd be highly sought after if your not all ready, great job once again 8)I can be regarded as an invitation? :D
NICE. I love that kind of art/printing.
Absolutely nothing special about the print itself. But I thought I'd throw it out here because of the placement. If you think, as I did when I said yes to it, "sure, no big deal, just throw it on a pocket pallet or a sleeve pallet"... you might be surprised! The print had to be the lower right corner, and the shape of the pocket made the fabric pull & twist on those pallets. And when I researched, I couldn't find info on how (or if) anyone else does this location. Now I know why. After some trial & error, I created a pallet shape that worked. (I'll let you puzzle on that, if you're so inclined.) :-X ::)
Transfer.. BadaBing!
Transfer.. BadaBing!
How did I know someone would say that? :) Not a big fan of them compared to printing, in general. And this job included a 14.5"w x 8"h print across the chest that the pocket needed to match.
Very nice print Orion.
Are you guys creating the designs for these school bands? Or is the art provided?
Cuz these bands are getting the hook-ups.
Murphy
What we do when we aren't printing simprocess....FML.Love the name on that attachment! ;D
And here was the special version we did on these....... The hair is all sewn down using our sewing machines here LOLNice!
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLHQSeGgPJK/?taken-by=denverprinthouse (https://www.instagram.com/p/BLHQSeGgPJK/?taken-by=denverprinthouse)
That print is amazing, looks like a photograph, the colors are perfect.
A DTG wouldn't give you that quality.
and on a black ...
Very nice Sergey!Thank you Dale
Nice print in the Cleveland job P.Do not understand...
nice and vibrant 4cp. Which brand?
Nice. How many screens went into that one?
We don't get the chance to print cool stuff very often, but, here is one that I am happy with, art and seps done in house, all 225 "S" screen, 56LPIDid you do the art, or someone else?
Nice!!No,it is snowman
Slepibabu?
Blind Grandma??
LOL. I guess I need to brush up my Russian :)Nice!!No,it is snowman
Slepibabu?
Blind Grandma??
That's nice- sep program or sepped manually?
How many colors?
Here is a piece we just ran today. The client changed the shirt to white at the last minute. It turned out pretty good, if I do say so myself.
Looks fantastic! I think I remember you posting about this before. Did you end up sticking with 4CP? The colors look on point! What LPI?Yeah, the customer wanted it on a grey shirt at first, and we were going to try and print on a base, but they decided to go with a white shirt.
Nice! I like it a lot. That's what CMYK is good for, and you did a great job.Thank you!
I love clean prints.[/url]
Im not 100% sure why, but these went on 6 different colored shirts. Maybe to have it stand out more on the dark shirts.?I love clean prints.[/url]
Looks nice, but why did they do the white inside the registered marks??
Looking at the stuff Serj prints you'd say he's from another planet. Amazing graphics and water based printing.Thank you Maxie :-)
I met him at ISS Long Beach and I can vouch for the fact that he is human. Great guy.
Serj, regards to the ladies who were at the TSB dinner with you.
All plastisol. Union Process inks. Legacy Base. No highlight. Separated in-house.
All plastisol. Union Process inks. Legacy Base. No highlight. Separated in-house.
Cool. What mesh do you use, especially for UB? Do you double stroke the UB? (We've recently started CMYK on black, with reasonably good results; but we haven't done an image like this.)
All plastisol. Union Process inks. Legacy Base. No highlight. Separated in-house.
Cool. What mesh do you use, especially for UB? Do you double stroke the UB? (We've recently started CMYK on black, with reasonably good results; but we haven't done an image like this.)
200 White. 305 Process. Double stroke White, flash, YMCK wow.
Tom,
That turned out sweet! Love the look. Great printing.
Same here wow, Serj the prints you post should win you awards and contract printing jobs from all over the world, the detail in that print especially the scarf around his neck and the hair WOW!!!:DIt is a pity that this is not so ...
Serj, like bimm said WOW. Beautiful. Still a manual print. What ink?Rutland ink
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RUFRICKENKIDDINGMEThank you
The motorhead print is mind boggling for sure... so amazed with your work Serj
What is the print order? Mesh counts? How many screens?3 colors, mesh 43 The separation was not done for 3D. It was an experiment
You have some curved edges (contours) to your stacking of the HD inks that are very impressive. The separations were very finely controlled to accomplish that. Impressive!
cool stuff SERJOk, I get it. ; :)
SERJ, just to confirm- you just printed halftones, on top of HD halftones....with water based ink...on a manual press.
I too suspect wizardry is at play.
SERJ, just to confirm- you just printed halftones, on top of HD halftones....with water based ink...on a manual press.It's not water ink, it's plastisol, no magic
I too suspect wizardry is at play.
I never use a mesh, I paint on T-shirts :DSERJ, just to confirm- you just printed halftones, on top of HD halftones....with water based ink...on a manual press.
I too suspect wizardry is at play.
I heard he's using hand stretched mesh with staple tape too. ;)
DC/tie-dye.
This is something we did a few months back. Tony's post in his other thread reminded me of it and I wanted to share it without intruding on his post.
It came.out ok, needs some work, but this has been a thing around here for a long time.
Happy Tie-Dye Fri-Dye everyone.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170519/f963ed700bd13125106334ff5e3155a9.jpg)
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i would so wear that, nice work
I would like to add one more design
([url]http://media02.hongkiat.com/creative-tshirts-to-buy/1-no-king-t-shirt.jpg[/url])
I would like to add one more design
([url]http://media02.hongkiat.com/creative-tshirts-to-buy/1-no-king-t-shirt.jpg[/url])
did you print this?
pierre
Fun one from today
([url]http://i.imgur.com/dSOxcWN.jpg[/url])
Fun one from today
[img]http://i.imgur.com/dSOxcWN.jpg[img]
love the car. was there a base under the black in the background city or did you drop it out. VERY NICE MAN.
Love doing racing prints. This one is on the simpler side, especially since the customer wanted the same thing on the front minus the sponsors. Tape off and go, can't beat that with a stick. Tomorrow or early next week we do the design with the sprint car. Looking forward to that one.
Oddly, I just finished XXL oversized transfers for a TQ / Midget. I did it more to see if I could do it, turns out I can. Didn't come out terrible, some slight miss-rego that annoyed me but my own fault for leaving it till the last minute. 9 colours, 640X480mm sheet size.
Good looking stuff!
I have a question on the transfer image. There is a very distinct section of "dirt" in yellow around/behind the front tire. In the picture of the mounted transfer, the yellow "dirt" is gone.
On your stock car print, the "dirt" area is a red/orange color and is clearly visible in the final print.
Was the order of print incorrect on your transfers so that it was blocked out by what was to be an under print of some other color?
As stated, good looking stuff, just something I noticed.
Thanks for the clarification.
Again, nice work! Good looking stuff.
Edit: I just realized that the two images I was comparing were not posted by the same person...oops.
Danny:
Waterbase plus Virus CMYK?
Nice to see how that one turned out. The beige looks a little abrupt maybe, could probably have been curved a little differently to blend, but just barely. Great print for so few screens!
Nice to see how that one turned out. The beige looks a little abrupt maybe, could probably have been curved a little differently to blend, but just barely. Great print for so few screens!
That is SICK!
I would have passed on even trying that, lol.
Dan:
Just wanting to make sure I read correctly, discharge base and plastisol top colors?
Beautiful work to both Dan and Tony!
Great seps and printing!
Are the "B" logos that should be on the caps and helmets and the "RED SOX" logo that should be on the jerseys omitted from the art by the client to avoid any copyright issues?
looks like there is a gray unless that is black with top white mixed
I like Motorhead
Water based
index over a halftoned underbase?
What resolution for index, what lpi and how small was the design?
Looks decent for a mass production shop...
I'm typically using something as light as I can on a base. For sim process, People typically use your top white for getting the bright whites (over topof your base) that typically is semi whiteish and shirt color. The base really only needs to support the colors and make use of fading more softly to the shirt and allowing some shirt show thu in some areas. For me, I like a 230 mesh on base and 305's on top colors. In some unique situations, I've used a 305 as a base.
55Lpi,5 colors, Magna inksWater based
nice and clean! what are the details, how many screens? is this with Virus inks?
Dan, I've done what you your talking about because it makes printing wet on wet easy, but what I've notice on some stuff my base needs to be thicker to brighten up the top color.
Love the art! Who did it?
Give yourself more credit Dan...you really know how to blend colors in your seps
Really cool stuff - love the rich colors on the back. Nicely done.
nice print and sep Serj! wow 90 lpi on a 120mesh? that's impressive!I am pretty sure he is using the european mesh numbers so a euro 120 would be equivalent to a 305. Unless he's a wizard, and after seeing some of his prints he may well be.
Of course European. I'm not a magician.I don't quite believe that.
Amazing to say the least Serj. To add to the question by ffokazak, what light source and emulsion?
:D to create a screen I use an emulsion of Ulano QLT, a metal halide lamp of 5 kw and a little magicMagic and a lot of fine tuning. Whatever it is, you have it down. Always great work.
Water based, 6 colors, 120(cm) mesh, 90 LPI
Plastisol Sim Process on Discharge Base on a Blend. Not water base soft, but still a nice hand
Quick question to understand your process sequence:
Discharge Base
Flash
WOW on the plastisol layers
That sound about right?
It's no surprise at all. QLT with the added sensitizer works perfectly well with water-based inks. But once you have the sensitizer added, you should consider longer exposure time. In terms of resolition I find QLT the best of the best.
For a local tattoo shop. Art and seps done by us.
For a local tattoo shop. Art and seps done by us.
Real nice! May I ask how many screens, etc. ?
Roller after underbase? two yellows, a black and grey and green?
super impressive skull.
For a local tattoo shop. Art and seps done by us.
Real nice! May I ask how many screens, etc. ?
Roller after underbase? two yellows, a black and grey and green?
super impressive skull.
White, Light Grey, Vegas Gold, Old Gold, spice brown, Top white. 6 screens, we do NOT use a roller.
Looks great dirk!
Nice colors there, how many screens what that?
Nice print! I’m going to have to read up so I’ll even know what index printing is and when to use it.An index separation just separates out the pixels of each individual color. So each channel is 100%K, no halftones other than in the base. This image was very grainy to start with so I think if we went sim process some of the colors would have probably muddied up and been difficult to control. Index has always been pretty accurate for us, but you do usually need a decent # of screens to get there. Although a one color index can be interesting as well! Just don't ever resize them!
The Nascar tutorial was on Jimiyo.com, but the site is no longer up. The Wayback Machine has the site archived at
[url]https://web.archive.org/web/20080210182425/http://www.jimiyo.com:80/indexseps.htm[/url] ([url]https://web.archive.org/web/20080210182425/http://www.jimiyo.com:80/indexseps.htm[/url])
Mr. Peabody! Such a cool and Wayback reference.
i dont have any final photos, but here is a quick 25 sec. video of us printing a WOW HSA print!are the 3 flashes running? what brand hsa?
https://www.instagram.com/p/BhuXxXVnEJI/?taken-by=nightowlsprint (https://www.instagram.com/p/BhuXxXVnEJI/?taken-by=nightowlsprint)
i dont have any final photos, but here is a quick 25 sec. video of us printing a WOW HSA print!are the 3 flashes running? what brand hsa?
https://www.instagram.com/p/BhuXxXVnEJI/?taken-by=nightowlsprint (https://www.instagram.com/p/BhuXxXVnEJI/?taken-by=nightowlsprint)
shane
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That looks great. Did you use three whites?
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That looks great. Did you use three whites?
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2 bases (one clear/one white), and a highlight white.
That looks great. Did you use three whites?
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2 bases (one clear/one white), and a highlight white.
with WOW high solid acrylic ink, the trick is building your inks transparent, and letting your dual underbases cover the opacity. We just started using the clear ink as the first underbase, as it make registration a little easier. It also helps let the other inks, sit on top of an ink, instead of sitting on top of the garment. Sort of in the same thinking of printing plastisol. At least that's how i understand it. Sometimes you have to use the dual white bases, or opacity can suffer.
that run was 288pcs.
looks great! what's the reason for the clear underbase? just about all of the waterbase that i've done here has been for one or two clients and they really like the vintage thing so i haven't ever underbased for them
That looks great. Did you use three whites?
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2 bases (one clear/one white), and a highlight white.
with WOW high solid acrylic ink, the trick is building your inks transparent, and letting your dual underbases cover the opacity. We just started using the clear ink as the first underbase, as it make registration a little easier. It also helps let the other inks, sit on top of an ink, instead of sitting on top of the garment. Sort of in the same thinking of printing plastisol. At least that's how i understand it. Sometimes you have to use the dual white bases, or opacity can suffer.
that run was 288pcs.
looks great! what's the reason for the clear underbase? just about all of the waterbase that i've done here has been for one or two clients and they really like the vintage thing so i haven't ever underbased for them
Can’t remember if I posted this or not. I could use your advice. I’ve done a couple of sim process jobs - and both were for my personal use, as I practice.
230 mesh, 45 lpi
Manual press
Green Galaxy waterbase inks
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Not bad at all 8), but just me thinking I would have like to get more of that blue where all the black is and make blend better in that area.Thanks, I’m a hobbyist - but like to produce good work. I agree, the Black was too heavy. These are giveaways for the poker runs we do.
Can’t remember if I posted this or not. I could use your advice. I’ve done a couple of sim process jobs - and both were for my personal use, as I practice.
230 mesh, 45 lpi
Manual press
Green Galaxy waterbase inks
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You have a good grasp on the halftones. Those look pretty good. The blend between the black and the blue, that blue needs to run further under the black for a smooth transition. There seems to be a gap of missing blue dots (white shirt show thu) right there. This, is where some people are talking about the "interlocked halftones". I don't like the idea of those myself. In my opinion, as I see it, interlocking requires exact reg. Even when you are thinking you are dead on, you are off a hair, and then there can be some shift during production. With interlocking, you can get the same thing we see here, but maybe not (as much). Therefore, the best option (IMO) in seps is to run the color under further. Doesn't have to be much.
What I like to do, is to select the black, add to a new channel and select the blue, and add that to same channel. There, you can see if you are overlapping your blue enough.
If in vector, well, this is why Photoshop is just a much better tool for separations, but it can be done in vector also. Just use overprint in Illustrator to that fade. You can do the same thing in Corel I'm sure, I just don't remember how t tell you.
I hope that was helpful. Again, you have a good grasp o the halftone % to create good shades. It's just that blend is off a little.
Thanks
Dan
PERFECT use of process printing. Nice. I'm curious tho, why the Cyan after Yellow? I typically go YMCK out of habit, but there are no rules.
Nice work Dan. We are starting to play with the same thing to see if we can get away for 8&9 sim process. What was your LPI?
All in all this was a successful test. Dan can respond to the image specifics but the DC/UB enhances the graduated tones nicely. Could have played with it a bit more (anyone remember doctoring up process inks with flourescents)? But we took away what we needed from it. So yes, better print/hand and two less screens
Nice work Dan. We are starting to play with the same thing to see if we can get away for 8&9 sim process. What was your LPI?
65 lpi. 305 mesh and a couple 350 mesh.
Yeah nice Chris...... Anyone that is doing any sort of process work with WB inks I give mad props to. We are slowly converting everything we print to WB here so I've been doing some development on high end WB process printing lately..... My findings are if you want the dots to "go away" with WB you need to be at minimum 81 LPI........ 55-65 lpi IMO is almost the same visual results, I didn't start seeing any noticeable changes until above 73 lpi
Really nice work on that, dont you wish every garment would discharge LOL
Yeah nice Chris...... Anyone that is doing any sort of process work with WB inks I give mad props to. We are slowly converting everything we print to WB here so I've been doing some development on high end WB process printing lately..... My findings are if you want the dots to "go away" with WB you need to be at minimum 81 LPI........ 55-65 lpi IMO is almost the same visual results, I didn't start seeing any noticeable changes until above 73 lpi
Really nice work on that, dont you wish every garment would discharge LOL
Yes. Yes I do. Just finished up formulas for cyan, magenta, yellow wb/dc inks yesterday in fact. RS Cyan and BS Cyan. YS Magenta and BS Magenta. Dan and I talked about developing a sample image and halftone grids to get relatively scientific results
Here's my first try at four color process.
Printed manually with water based inks, 305 mesh @ 55LPI. I'm hoping to upgrade from my ancient Atlas 4 color to a more modern 6 color and play around with discharge under basing soon.
10 Clr Dino.Wow. Amazing.
Discharge base white. Inks, screens, Production overseen by TonyP and Will Booth.230 discharge base. 305's and 355's on top colors.
With only flashing the base mind ya. ;)
Dan,Yes, In areas that are to be Grey or if I want to go from a solid black to a bright white with grey in the middle tones, I make those up using a smidgen of Y, R and B Then some black and then some top white or top white and then some black. Like "simulated" process. Check the color content in the chrome/silver looking tear parts of the shirt. (The original art has that looking like silverish grey chrome. Most people I guess would stick with Base white black and top white in there, but to me, that area has a tint of color. You pull those from the Y, R and B. It makes for a more rich color of grey.
The only panel that is a bit confusing to me is the Red. I can see touches of Red in top breast feathers, but a lot of Red all the way down which is overlaid with Blue. Unless it's a secret, is there something about the technique that has a lot more Red than I would expect for a sim print?
Obviously it works, just that I'm a bit puzzled.
7 colours, water based, Discharg + CMYK+ Panton, 90 Lpi,120 (cm) Mesh
Not a good pic, but here's some 7-color samples (and 1 color) we ran yesterday for a customer needing them the next day for an apparel show.
Not a good pic, but here's some 7-color samples (and 1 color) we ran yesterday for a customer needing them the next day for an apparel show.
These look amazing - but gotta ask, what’s the going rate on those samples with a next-day turnaround?
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Thanks!! Wish we got to do more of this type of work.Us too, 95% of ours is super boring.
6 colors ,plastisol High density, 45 Lpi
6 colors, WaterBased
Awesome print Danny!
btw- Congrats to DPH for the recent, multiple, Impressions Awards!
Awesome print!
Here's the first sim process job of the year for me. Wouldn't mind doing another one haha. Seps by Dan. 45lpi.
Cool 9 screen simulation a customer of mine sent. This file was suuuuuuper low resolution. Turned out better than expected.
([url]http://www.seps.ink/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/50210697_1806632206115211_5051092339888432850_n-1024x1024.jpg[/url])
Awesome print!
Here's the first sim process job of the year for me. Wouldn't mind doing another one haha. Seps by Dan. 45lpi.
Nation03,
You might want to mention this one was 3 clrs Yellow, Red, Blue + a base and I think it had a top white. 5 total?
Here's a poster print I finished up recently. 3 colors, 20"x30"What size screen are you using for that print?
https://youtu.be/_x3XfWvwT8s (https://youtu.be/_x3XfWvwT8s)
I agree nice job! what I want to know is who in the world is still buying screenprinted poster, your good my man!!!! 8)There is such a huge market for screen printed posters. Especially in the music / concert scene still.
I agree nice job! what I want to know is who in the world is still buying screenprinted poster, your good my man!!!! 8)There is such a huge market for screen printed posters. Especially in the music / concert scene still.
Plus there are companies like Mondo, Grey Matter Art, Bottleneck Gallery, and the likes that produce licensed limited edition screen printed posters. I have seriously thought of adding it as a service here.
Here's a poster print I finished up recently. 3 colors, 20"x30"
https://youtu.be/_x3XfWvwT8s (https://youtu.be/_x3XfWvwT8s)
Eric,
You've come a long way baby! Looks great. I remember when you were first dabbling in halftone printing. :)
Pangea,
What kind of press are you using to print that? Is that direct screen print?
1964GN
Looks very good. Can't complain about that one. As the separator, you may see some things where it could be better, but at the end of the day, you still have the next and the next to get done, so we do what we can on it and let it go. Deadlines ya know. ;) . Looks great tho as is.
A 6 color from yesterday...
A 6 color from yesterday...
The ole 6 color Sim on black! Looks perfect!
What mesh, lpi and inks?
We are using a hodgepodge here and get varying results. They all come out sellable with no issues, but (I know) ;).
We use 230base, 305 on top, Mostly Wilflex but modified. We are using these double duro squeegees. Not sure what duro they are, but I'm told maybe 60 on one side, 70 on the other.
I agree nice job! what I want to know is who in the world is still buying screenprinted poster, your good my man!!!! 8)I got plenty of screen printed posters framed and hanging in my house.
Looks good Dan!
From memory I believe 230 has one of the lowest percentage of open area of almost all mesh counts, so maybe that is causing moire issues. Have you considered switching to 225 S for underbase? Other than that investigate halftone angles that are more compatible with what you currently employ.
Water based , 90 Lpi
Nice colors Dan, but hey you the man with seps and you make the printing easy!!!!
Here is another one we did just last week 3 color print Base white, Grey, Black
Thanks Dan! There is nothing like great seps and rollers with s mesh.
How did you manage to end up with Chinese mesh. My experience with any thing screen print related from China is rather of the negative side of things. As a matter of fact I would almost say don`t buy anything of Alibaba especially not without trade assurance. I can`t recall a single order where things arrived either as described, not damaged or of such low quality that it didn`t even last for a year before breaking down.Thanks Dan! There is nothing like great seps and rollers with s mesh.
I like great sep's with Statics and regular chinese mesh. That's what we run
For a guy that is color blind you can blend color very good ;D, nice printStop. Hold up. You’re saying Dan is color blind? Is that serious or just a joke? If I find out he’s color blind and still manages to give me good seps every time I’ll have a whole new level of respect. The seps already work out with few minor or no tweaks which I can highly appreciate.
For a guy that is color blind you can blend color very good ;D, nice print
How did you manage to end up with Chinese mesh. My experience with any thing screen print related from China is rather of the negative side of things. As a matter of fact I would almost say don`t buy anything of Alibaba especially not without trade assurance. I can`t recall a single order where things arrived either as described, not damaged or of such low quality that it didn`t even last for a year before breaking down.Thanks Dan! There is nothing like great seps and rollers with s mesh.
I like great sep's with Statics and regular chinese mesh. That's what we run
At this point, my intent was to achieve a glossy metal look, but the mesh tracks (even from the flattening screen) were leaving mesh tracks in it.
That flattening screen is on a old 110. We are going to bump that up to a 305 to achieve a smoother result there but I think the mesh coating needs to be thicker also.
Band season has begun...
Love y'alls stuff Brandt, that is why I follow your FB and IG.