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General Screen Printing / Re: Auto reg systems and training
« Last post by whitewater on Today at 10:44:37 AM »
We still use films, so we have thin reg marks so the staff can line up more easily. If they do end up washing out, we just tape them. 2 pcs of tape. We only use reg marks at top and bottom.
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General Screen Printing / Re: Auto reg systems and training
« Last post by prozyan on Yesterday at 08:23:24 PM »
Tri loc every job.  Very rarely use registration marks, especially since I'm semi-retired now and am a one man show.  Registration marks were used more often when I had employees doing the setup, but even then they were more for a comfort factor than a requirement.
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General Screen Printing / Re: Auto reg systems and training
« Last post by CBCB on Yesterday at 07:40:15 PM »
In theory it should make even a one-colour job faster to set up. We set the print location too so we can load shirts to the same spot on every job.

Hard to make the operator care about it sometimes, they seem content to twiddle the knobs and load more test shirts.
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Newbie / Re: Discharge ink ->more ink or more heat?
« Last post by Rockers on March 16, 2024, 08:52:04 AM »
thanks for the great tips..

-> Main take-away: finally! being over 90kg is a plus

-> i pull most of the time because of squeegee durometer, but admit, after trying pulling white plastisol, i pushed it. (learned quickly not to combine these two)

-> i am shocked that discharge is waterbase.. i really thought its a kind of plastisol. reading the label helps.

-> after reading the label: this discharge ink is Formaldehyd-free.. it still stinks toxic ;-) maybe that is the difference?*

*in my limited-understading.. Zinc-Formaldehyde-Sulfoxylate (ZFS) was the active ingredient, now its Aminoiminomethansulfinsäure (Thiourea Dioxide)
 
-> with the dryer i am stuck, but maybe i try to: pre-flash to get the moisture out, print (low mesh, lots of ink), let it go through the tunnel two times.

:what i discharged stayed the same in the washing, only the red shirt changed its appearance the next morning   
We tried the non-ZSF discharge from Magna many years ago. It didn`t work as well as the ZSF discharge inks. At least back then, maybe they have changed the formula now but try using ZSF discharge and see if you notice a difference.
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Newbie / Re: Discharge ink ->more ink or more heat?
« Last post by OhNoPrinting on March 16, 2024, 07:24:53 AM »
thanks for the great tips..

-> Main take-away: finally! being over 90kg is a plus

-> i pull most of the time because of squeegee durometer, but admit, after trying pulling white plastisol, i pushed it. (learned quickly not to combine these two)

-> i am shocked that discharge is waterbase.. i really thought its a kind of plastisol. reading the label helps.

-> after reading the label: this discharge ink is Formaldehyd-free.. it still stinks toxic ;-) maybe that is the difference?*

*in my limited-understading.. Zinc-Formaldehyde-Sulfoxylate (ZFS) was the active ingredient, now its Aminoiminomethansulfinsäure (Thiourea Dioxide)
 
-> with the dryer i am stuck, but maybe i try to: pre-flash to get the moisture out, print (low mesh, lots of ink), let it go through the tunnel two times.

:what i discharged stayed the same in the washing, only the red shirt changed its appearance the next morning   
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Newbie / Re: Discharge ink ->more ink or more heat?
« Last post by Evo on March 15, 2024, 05:50:43 PM »


That dryer should be on turtle mode.

Agreed. And even with that, not really enough uninterrupted tunnel time. Turtle mode to make it activate, and maybe a fixer additive to insure the colors remain somewhat washfast.

And/or send them all through again to heat set.

Also - Test test test. Put em in the washer on harsh settings (with Tide).
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General Screen Printing / Re: Auto reg systems and training
« Last post by bimmridder on March 15, 2024, 03:49:07 PM »
The only time we MAY use reggies is on true 4CP. Otherwise too much time wasted taping and removing tape for something we don't need. We do have an information box on each screen, but that's one, 3'' piece of tape
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Newbie / Re: Discharge ink ->more ink or more heat?
« Last post by zanegun08 on March 15, 2024, 03:39:20 PM »
Nobody's said the main issue, you aren't curing long enough.  80 seconds on a small electric dryer isn't enough time to evaporate all the moisture from the print.

Also discharge just doesn't work like it used to, not sure what changed but basically ink manufacturer wide discharge just isn't as bright white anymore in my opinion.

Discharge under base, and high solid whites if you want a consistent soft, white print.  Add in all the variables of different tees being hit or miss, it's the safer bet.

But you aren't curing long enough, and I would make sure you really drive the ink into the garment.

That dryer should be on turtle mode.
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Newbie / Re: Discharge ink ->more ink or more heat?
« Last post by 3Deep on March 15, 2024, 03:15:57 PM »
I pushed for a long time but for some reason whenever I get on the manual now I pull stroke can't tell you why...@ Evo, never thought about it way of fighting a thick flood of ink, really makes sense now that I think a bout it....Thanks
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Newbie / Re: Discharge ink ->more ink or more heat?
« Last post by Evo on March 15, 2024, 02:06:35 PM »
On the subject of manual printing.
Are you a puller or a pusher?
I pulled for fifteen or more years before I became a push convert. Really helped clear the screen.

I pull print. Generously thin the ink (keep it wet!) and do a push flood, NEVER a pull flood unless you are walking away from the press for a minute. Sharp angle. Shear the ink to a very thin layer, just enough to fill the image at EOM thickness. Keep your screens tight and off contact as low as possible. Print strokes are WAY easier this way and the screen clears completely.

With thick floods you are fighting a pile of ink on the print stroke and risking smeared details.
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