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screen printing => General Screen Printing => Topic started by: rusty on June 05, 2018, 12:23:24 PM
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Just curious to see what people think the best way for me print inside labels and then another print right on the back neck opposite of the inside label. I know heat transfers would probe be easiest/fastest.
its 400 pieces and the shirts are white. the customer is worried about the image showing through the other side. The inside print is red and outside pink. I have an auto so if I printed I could put a white underbase.to block any bleeding.
The shirts are port authority
I don't have a hat heat press but it looks like I should get one anyway.
Any suggestions for speed and profitability are greatly appreciated.
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We do transfers for neck labels for precisely that reason, we never have to think about it bleeding through. It is considerably slower than printing though, so weigh the variables...
Steve
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agreed on the heat transfer labels. they look the best.
But you can also do high mesh (330/355), or add a clear base.
The key is quick strokes, with NO pressure.
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400 pieces, we would print. Heat pressing that many shirt would be a pain. . .
do some testing, i'd run high mesh, light pressure and see if you can make it work, otherwise the white ubase is a good idea.
pierre
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Thanks for all the input. I think we will test and print them.
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We print them on our label printer (ASPE). Transfers look nice but we are relabeling 500-1000 units a day for different customers. So we print everything.
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We print them on our label printer (ASPE). Transfers look nice but we are relabeling 500-1000 units a day for different customers. So we print everything.
our tag printer just collects dust. we never do volume anymore to where it's actually worth tinkering with it.
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We print them on our label printer (ASPE). Transfers look nice but we are relabeling 500-1000 units a day for different customers. So we print everything.
our tag printer just collects dust. we never do volume anymore to where it's actually worth tinkering with it.
I've been curious about this. Those press look great but they seem to come up on the market a lot. Is it people just not getting the volume they expected?
I know another shop that has a pad printer just for neck labels
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We use ours on smaller orders. Its just as fast to setup as a manual if not faster. We use it for discharge sleeve hits too when the auto is backed up. We have printed Koozies with it and socks. The newer ones with the hoodie arms are nice. I dont want to deal with transfers at all anymore so we print everything or sew in labels.
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We sold our ASPE here, moving all of our inside tag prints to inkcups pad printing.
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We use ours on smaller orders. Its just as fast to setup as a manual if not faster. We use it for discharge sleeve hits too when the auto is backed up. We have printed Koozies with it and socks. The newer ones with the hoodie arms are nice. I dont want to deal with transfers at all anymore so we print everything or sew in labels.
Doing discharge on this press seems insane to me.
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We use our RapidTag almost everyday. Transfers have their place but if we are relabeling in the hundreds we are printing them. 230 screens, one pass, low temp additive. Beauty.
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I don't do it much anymore but we pad print too. I find that it is way easier/faster. Even black ink is light enough to not show through a white tee.
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We print them on our label printer (ASPE). Transfers look nice but we are relabeling 500-1000 units a day for different customers. So we print everything.
our tag printer just collects dust. we never do volume anymore to where it's actually worth tinkering with it.
Wanna sell it cheap? :D
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Digging up another old thread.
For those of you doing transfer tags what transfer paper are you using and what temp are you pressing at? I have a Stahls hat press I would like to use and I’ve done some testing using Arjo Wiggins X90 paper and One Stroke transfer ink but only poly/cotton and tri-blends I’m getting a heat press mark that is making the shirt shiny where I did the transfer. I’ve tried less heat and I don’t get a full transfer. Same with less pressure.
We only have one auto so I would really like to get this off the press and into someone else’s hands so we can free up the press to print more work while neck tags are being applied.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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We sold our ASPE here, moving all of our inside tag prints to inkcups pad printing.
Danny why would you make that switch? I have ran the ink cups unit doing neck prints and i don't think the efficiency is there vs. the rapid tag. just curious
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Digging up another old thread.
For those of you doing transfer tags what transfer paper are you using and what temp are you pressing at? I have a Stahls hat press I would like to use and I’ve done some testing using Arjo Wiggins X90 paper and One Stroke transfer ink but only poly/cotton and tri-blends I’m getting a heat press mark that is making the shirt shiny where I did the transfer. I’ve tried less heat and I don’t get a full transfer. Same with less pressure.
We only have one auto so I would really like to get this off the press and into someone else’s hands so we can free up the press to print more work while neck tags are being applied.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
what time/temp/pressure are you using?
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Digging up another old thread.
For those of you doing transfer tags what transfer paper are you using and what temp are you pressing at? I have a Stahls hat press I would like to use and I’ve done some testing using Arjo Wiggins X90 paper and One Stroke transfer ink but only poly/cotton and tri-blends I’m getting a heat press mark that is making the shirt shiny where I did the transfer. I’ve tried less heat and I don’t get a full transfer. Same with less pressure.
We only have one auto so I would really like to get this off the press and into someone else’s hands so we can free up the press to print more work while neck tags are being applied.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
what time/temp/pressure are you using?
I have tried dozens of combinations. Stahls hat press doesn’t have pressure settings, just a knob to turn to adjust pressure bit I’ve tried everything from 270-340 temps, quick hits to longer times, little pressure to full pressure. And every combo possible. I think it’s something with my setup vs the time/temp/pressure. Not sure if it’s my cover sheet, the paper I’m using (tried two different types) or what. Really has me stumped. I don’t have a pillow on my hat press but maybe that would help. What is your setup?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Digging up another old thread.
For those of you doing transfer tags what transfer paper are you using and what temp are you pressing at? I have a Stahls hat press I would like to use and I’ve done some testing using Arjo Wiggins X90 paper and One Stroke transfer ink but only poly/cotton and tri-blends I’m getting a heat press mark that is making the shirt shiny where I did the transfer. I’ve tried less heat and I don’t get a full transfer. Same with less pressure.
We only have one auto so I would really like to get this off the press and into someone else’s hands so we can free up the press to print more work while neck tags are being applied.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
what time/temp/pressure are you using?
I have tried dozens of combinations. Stahls hat press doesn’t have pressure settings, just a knob to turn to adjust pressure bit I’ve tried everything from 270-340 temps, quick hits to longer times, little pressure to full pressure. And every combo possible. I think it’s something with my setup vs the time/temp/pressure. Not sure if it’s my cover sheet, the paper I’m using (tried two different types) or what. Really has me stumped. I don’t have a pillow on my hat press but maybe that would help. What is your setup?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
There is a used rapid tag on digitsmith for 3k ..great buy
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I'll have to second or third the ASPE RapidTag LP-1
It's absolutely killer for simple tags AND one color koozie prints.
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Is it leaving a mark only where the transfer paper is? Or the whole heating element leaves a mark?
I've got the black maxx hat press and regret buying everytime I use it. No pressure sensor and no auto open. Wish I just got the hotronix...
You could try putting a piece of fleece material on the bottom platten to give it some more cushion like a pillow. Or some other paper on the top covers the whole platen area. maybe even some shirt material ontop
We do our transfers with low cure inks if possible.
We use ace transfer supply for our paper and powder
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
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Is it leaving a mark only where the transfer paper is? Or the whole heating element leaves a mark?
I've got the black maxx hat press and regret buying everytime I use it. No pressure sensor and no auto open. Wish I just got the hotronix...
You could try putting a piece of fleece material on the bottom platten to give it some more cushion like a pillow. Or some other paper on the top covers the whole platen area. maybe even some shirt material ontop
We do our transfers with low cure inks if possible.
We use ace transfer supply for our paper and powder
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
It’s where the heating element is. Good idea on the fleece material underneath and shirt material on top. I’m going to give that a shot and see what comes of it.
Yea, the auto open is super nice. Definitely worth the extra money.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I had a rapid tag and found it to be “less” of a machine than I’m used to. Sold it and got the all electric anatol prodigy which is working great.
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Livingston system has a new tag along pallet.
www.livingstonsystems.com (http://www.livingstonsystems.com)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YAa04EATfdY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YAa04EATfdY)
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I had a rapid tag and found it to be “less” of a machine than I’m used to. Sold it and got the all electric anatol prodigy which is working great.
how much are those compared to the rapid tag?
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Rick, They are $400 each.
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I had a rapid tag and found it to be “less” of a machine than I’m used to. Sold it and got the all electric anatol prodigy which is working great.
how much are those compared to the rapid tag?
I had the very first "all electric" version in the US and I've found through the Anatol tech support that the design was been updated several times since my purchase. think I paid $12k for it. luckily, I got $6k for my rapid tag so it was an easy upgrade.