Author Topic: Printing on black poly shirts?  (Read 944 times)

Offline broadway

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Printing on black poly shirts?
« on: January 31, 2014, 03:46:14 PM »
I have an order to print a 3 color logo on some  black poly shirts using an automatic press. I already have IC low cure additive for the non poly inks. It is a simple logo and it will be about 8 inches wide. My only experience with dark poly shirts have been 1 color, white ink prints. I have printed many light colored poly shirts in the past with traditional plastisol inks. I am am going to print the underbase with Union lb poly white #1070, flash, purple and the hl white last. Should i use a the poly white for the hl white or should i use the epic quick white? Not a big fan of the poly white and it is very thick. I have brought the poly white in my house to help it warm up. My only concern is about dye migration.
Thanks, Peter

Offline Dottonedan

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Re: Printing on black poly shirts?
« Reply #1 on: January 31, 2014, 05:18:09 PM »

No halftones, so you (could) use that Poly on the top white as well. For the most part, I don't see many people using Poly on top white. It's not always needed especially for a job like this where you can really use a low mesh on that base that will assist in the blocking, but make sure to also be positive that you are also curing the ink.

The Poly factor and the bleed factor contribute to people under curing these. They feel (too much heat) makes the dyes migrate, so many are prone to back off the heat a little and also the idea of too much heat can scorch or melt these poly shirts. I would make sure that each shirt is truly cured. A cured shirt also helps prevent migration. I've seen orders for 500 and a1000 sweat shirts look to be a cured shirt, go out the door, only to see them in the stores with the whites pink or navy tinged. A little more time and care, to assure a proper block and curing can save tons of money in the end.

It's a fine line.  I know, I sound like I know what I'm talk'n about, but I don't really keep looking for more answers and weigh out the best from those who continue or consistently to provide smart answers.  I'm not sure if mine is totally correct. It's all based on what I read and remember from the shops I worked at.

This print seems small and not a lot of ink coverage. So I might make sure to use Poly blocker on that top white also. Maybe just not lay it down (as heavy) on the top white.

Also,  that purple can tend to be thin. People think to use a higher mesh on that purple so as to not get the ink to stack and make it too heavy. This print is already going to be heavy due to the poly blocker and the mesh required for that. So, I would also use a medium mesh. but coated well, so that it presents a nice clean heavy application of purple ink that will have a good wall. Otherwise, if too thin, it will skate around on that sheet of plastic white underbase.
Artist & Sim Process separator, Co owner of The Shirt Board, Past M&R Digital tech installer for I-Image machines. Over 28 yrs in the apparel industry. Apparel sales,  e-mail 615-821-7850

Offline GaryG

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Re: Printing on black poly shirts?
« Reply #2 on: January 31, 2014, 11:35:06 PM »
Mentioned before using Quick or Extreme (very similar ((prefer Extreme))
156-2 hits / FLASH / 156-2hits  --  then Purple.
Two whites "first" means a brighter purple.

Key is curing at the right temp- not too hot, but long enough,
very durable and good to go. Test a couple and have confidence.

Offline whitewater

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Re: Printing on black poly shirts?
« Reply #3 on: February 01, 2014, 03:22:44 PM »
we have done 156 white 2 hits, flash, White again - 1 hit flash, then purple 1 hit. I usually put a fan right on the head after flash, for us it really helps.

The 2 hit then 1 hit works well for us. The 2 hits clears the screen, then the 1 hit makes so ink not so thick.