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Heat Seal - Heat Press - Whatever you want to call it! => General Heat Seal => Topic started by: Frog on September 13, 2022, 02:55:45 PM
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My vote is Rayon, and its variant Modal.
So much so, that I warn clients insisting on these fabrics beforehand.
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Same question, I just press a 100% poly shirt with dye sub inks for my wife and the press mark looks real bad, didn't someone have an answer for this? I know it has something to do with crushing the fabric, we are still pretty green when it comes to sublimation.
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Use one of those pillow cushions they sell for this. Give sit some room to get compressed but not leave the pressure marks.
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Same question, I just press a 100% poly shirt with dye sub inks for my wife and the press mark looks real bad, didn't someone have an answer for this? I know it has something to do with crushing the fabric, we are still pretty green when it comes to sublimation.
just so you know sublimation is not really about pressure but time and heat. when we press shirts with a sublimation print we use 22lbs(very light) and 386 degrees at 35 secs. your time and temp may vary but your paper should just be a very small tint of brown to much and to much time still white and not all the ink has dyed; when you peel it off
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Use one of those pillow cushions they sell for this. Give sit some room to get compressed but not leave the pressure marks.
I have 5 or 6 of those in assorted sizes, but they don't seem to really help me with the heat platen marks, especially on Rayon. Use them mostly to even out and reduce the increased pressure and resulting effect of raised seams and such.
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Same question, I just press a 100% poly shirt with dye sub inks for my wife and the press mark looks real bad, didn't someone have an answer for this? I know it has something to do with crushing the fabric, we are still pretty green when it comes to sublimation.
just so you know sublimation is not really about pressure but time and heat. when we press shirts with a sublimation print we use 22lbs(very light) and 386 degrees at 35 secs. your time and temp may vary but your paper should just be a very small tint of brown to much and to much time still white and not all the ink has dyed; when you peel it off
Thanks, we still have the old style heat press's, getting a digital press most likely would help on pressure to get it dial in right.
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I had a recommendation of using a scrap of pique golf shirt material, 100% poly as an overlay. Using one of the Perfect Print Pads (yeah right) load the shirt over the pad, put the piece of material on it after that, pre-press for 6 seconds (at least that is working for me) then lay the transfer down, and cover that with the piece of material, and press for the recommended time. Much, much better results than I was getting before. This is purely anecdotal evidence, but worth sharing...
Steve
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I had a recommendation of using a scrap of pique golf shirt material, 100% poly as an overlay. Using one of the Perfect Print Pads (yeah right) load the shirt over the pad, put the piece of material on it after that, pre-press for 6 seconds (at least that is working for me) then lay the transfer down, and cover that with the piece of material, and press for the recommended time. Much, much better results than I was getting before. This is purely anecdotal evidence, but worth sharing...
Steve
I re-press vinyl and especially DTF with a pique piece draped over, and besides adding a pleasing texture to the print, it does reduce the press marks a bit. However, RAYON IS STILL THE WORST!