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screen printing => 4 Color and Simulated Process Printing => Topic started by: coopersdesign on April 07, 2011, 04:27:52 PM
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1.) Discharge Underbase (No Flash)
2.) PMS 136 Golden Yellow
3.) PMS 179 Red Orange
4.) Burgandy
5.) Black
All colors printed wet on wet.
(http://www.coopersdesign.com/forums/chesapeake_print.jpg)
(P.S. Sorry about quality of print pic, took with a cell phone. The other is the pre-press proof with halftones.)
(http://www.coopersdesign.com/forums/sunset-art.jpg)
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Hey, looky at that. Great stuff. WET ON WET? WOW that makes me....happy. We don't need no stink'n FLASHES.
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According to Union Ink's destructions, flashing the "Plasticharge" will stop the discharge process (or slow it down) I wanted to get as much white as I could. Printing wet on wet inks allowed more time for the discharge to work, as well as help the halftones blend better! I'm extremely happy with it.
1 drawback: The EXTREMELY long exposure time for the special discharge emulsion. 10 minutes. Ugh!
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Very cool!
quick question, why discharge and which emulsion did you use?
pierre
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Nice!
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Very cool!
quick question, why discharge and which emulsion did you use?
pierre
To answer Pierre's question:
I wanted to use discharge in order to avoid the top ink colors acting like skaters on an ice rink.
Also, customer wanted a vintage/destroyed look, as well as a softer finish.
I used Chromaline emulsion.
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Here's a better image of the final print. By the way, I washed the shirt. Forgive the wrinkly-ness. :)
(http://www.coopersdesign.com/forums/chesapeake-sim-print-large.jpg)
And for those of you who are wondering what I started out with...here's the customer provided cell phone art.
(http://www.coopersdesign.com/forums/chesapeake-customerprovided-art.jpg)
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That looks great, nice job on the art.
Are those plastisol inks on a discharge base or all discharge colors?
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Ann, the stuff looks great! Do you have any more you could share?
pierre
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1 drawback: The EXTREMELY long exposure time for the special discharge emulsion. 10 minutes. Ugh!
EGAD!
What exposure source are you using? I have a 1200w metal halide and I'm at much less than 2 minutes for any screen. I use Ulano 925WR and some newer CCI stuff, WR-25.
Nice print by the way. Is it straight plastisol on top of the discharge?
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That looks great, nice job on the art.
Are those plastisol inks on a discharge base or all discharge colors?
Hey Sqeegee,
Yes, I used discharge only for the underbase, and regular plastisol for the colors. Worked beautifully.
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Ann, the stuff looks great! Do you have any more you could share?
pierre
Pierre,
I'll see what I can round up. I'm sure I do, SOMEWHERE.
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1 drawback: The EXTREMELY long exposure time for the special discharge emulsion. 10 minutes. Ugh!
EGAD!
What exposure source are you using? I have a 1200w metal halide and I'm at much less than 2 minutes for any screen. I use Ulano 925WR and some newer CCI stuff, WR-25.
Nice print by the way. Is it straight plastisol on top of the discharge?
Evo,
White Light Desktop Exposure Unit. I'm upgrading soon :)
Thanks!
Ann
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Hmm. I could see doing that print with no underbase at all, just 3-4 colors of overlapping w-o-w discharge.
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You'll be amazed at the difference a really good exposure unit will make. If and when you go to a good Metal Halide Single Point unit, not only will it expose your screens in a shorter time period, you'll get crisper (sharper) stencils as well. You'll need to make sure the positives on the film are as dense (light blocking) as possible though, as the more intense light will go thru a weaker stencil.
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I know it's expensive if your just starting out but i think our Nuarc 3140 is some of the best money we've spend on our business.
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Actually I do have a nice metal halide exposure unit, but I'm in the process of trying to find somewhere to put it. Not to mention, I have to get a new bulb(s) for it...