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Heat Seal - Heat Press - Whatever you want to call it! => General Heat Seal => Topic started by: aauusa on May 13, 2015, 09:28:51 AM
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hey just wanted to give a shout out to One Stroke ink, I have been using the old traditional crystals, and hot split paper for my transfers. always had to be careful about them getting to hot either in flash or dryer. we all know that drill.
but with One Strokes new powder you use cold peel paper, normal ink, and who cares if it cures on the paper. it will work brilliant. print like you would on a tee shirt, the press for 12-15sec at 310 and your done.
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They have a kit that presses at 275 for even easier poly garments.
Love the stuff!
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Not to knock the One Stroke ink and adhesive, but that's a cold peel, giving a very different result from the hot splits which leave less ink and less hand.
That said, most of my plastisol transfers are/were of this type.
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The one stroke kit that I'm speaking of is more so geared towards athletic stuff. Super awesome for that, because you full cure in your dryer then heat press the adhesive to the garment.
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Full cure in the dryer, really? Then it just transfers easy peasy?
Steve
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I'm sure this method works as advertised, but I'll remain skeptical until someone can provide wash test results.
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Well, we haven't had a call back yet.
It works as advertised!
Think about it... when you use adhesive powder you really aren't sticking the ink to the shirt you are sticking the powder to the shirt and the powder to the ink. So their powder just melts the powder which adheres it all down.
You have to let it cool because if not the powder is still "gooey" and will peel off the shirt. Once cooled, the paper pulls of the ink "easy peasy". :)
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Think of fully cured plastisol as a heat seal film, and the powder as your adhesive.
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yes it is that easy... just did a mess load of team shirts using this method and no one issue. even did multiple washing.
another added plus was that my old way I had to hit the white flash then white and flash again then powder down the dryer. I need the double white to get a solid color on the shirts, well the new way just one hit and you are good to go.
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It's the full cure that made me take notice... how about multi color Gill? Color down first, flash, One Stroke white, powder, down the dryer, onto the shirt? We've done multi-color before with the white blocking ink on ladies tops that had the shelf bras inside, mostly good results, this sounds much better...
Steve
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Steve, I haven't tried it, but I can't imagine what would change that.
If you think about your layers, you have white then powder then shirt... why would what you put on top your white change any of that?
This is the white that comes with their transfer kit (that I used)... I don't think we've ever tried using a color with that powder... though, I'm certain Robert would be glad to answer any of those questions.
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with one strokes way I did not need any underbase for my numbers. usually I would either have a white under base or double hit the color (print,flash,print, flash)
but all of these numbers are vegas first, flash then white, then powder and then dryer normal.
you can see on the number 1 which is very stretched and out of shape. I pulled picked and all other things to get to to start to fail and nothing happened. the shirts is an Augusta 1020
the ink was one stroke colormax white and regular 480 vegas
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That is the other benefit. With the low temps 275 for the heat pressing you aren't going to get any bleeding... so bleed blockers aren't really needed if the ink is opaque enough.
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Steve, I haven't tried it, but I can't imagine what would change that.
If you think about your layers, you have white then powder then shirt... why would what you put on top your white change any of that?
This is the white that comes with their transfer kit (that I used)... I don't think we've ever tried using a color with that powder... though, I'm certain Robert would be glad to answer any of those questions.
Let's say I had a red square with a white outline; the red prints, flashed, then the white, the powder and so on. When heat pressed, I end up with a red square with a white outline. I wouldn't put a color on top of the white; maybe I misstated. Anyway, it sounds very cool, I told the guys in the shop about it.
Steve
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Yeah, should work.
I thought you meant as an underbase.
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If doing multi-color, you flash in between colors and the last color remains wet, then the powder is applied. How does the adhesive stick to the ink that was flashed on press? Traditionally when processing multi-color transfers the last color down would cover previous colors, not be flashed and powder applied.
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If doing multi-color, you flash in between colors and the last color remains wet, then the powder is applied. How does the adhesive stick to the ink that was flashed on press? Traditionally when processing multi-color transfers the last color down would cover previous colors, not be flashed and powder applied.
That is a question I've always had myself.
No matter which transfer system/powder you use it's the same thing.
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If doing multi-color, you flash in between colors and the last color remains wet, then the powder is applied. How does the adhesive stick to the ink that was flashed on press? Traditionally when processing multi-color transfers the last color down would cover previous colors, not be flashed and powder applied.
it sticks to it just fine. I am printing some transfers this morning so I will do a video of the process.
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If doing multi-color, you flash in between colors and the last color remains wet, then the powder is applied. How does the adhesive stick to the ink that was flashed on press? Traditionally when processing multi-color transfers the last color down would cover previous colors, not be flashed and powder applied.
That is a question I've always had myself.
No matter which transfer system/powder you use it's the same thing.
If you send it to the dryer set for full cure, ink will bond with adhesive. Just as with T-shirts. Flashed and wet ink bond with fabric.
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This adhesive powder and technique was developed to allow transfer printers to make successful transfers for 100% polyester garments. The newly designed transfer powder that we call our "Transfer System Powder" (we do sell regular adhesive powder so be precise if wanting to try!!) is the key to this technique. Other types of transfer powders will not have the correct melt temp, bleed resistance or the holding power to withstand multiple washing/drying cycles. This technique does work with most ink series we sell, but if you are printing on heavily textured or mesh type polyester material and want LONG TERM BLEED RESISTANCE, a true poly ink like our Bravo Flex series will give the best results. We also sell paper specifically designed to be dimensionally stable if running multi-color designs. A design printed with our Bravo Flex series on this paper,,, coated with our Transfer System Powder,,, fully cured in dryer,,, heat pressed@ 275F for 13 seconds yields a very supple, bleed resistant, durable transfer.
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Does anyone besides me have difficulty in getting the excess adhesive powder off the non printed parts of the transfer?
I called a little while ago and Rocky relayed through my sales rep some possible fixes for this problem: Making sure the paper is dry (and shrunk) with a trip through the dryer prior to printing, Vertically tapping the paper on some hard surface, or Compressed air.
That excess adhesive WILL spoil shirts the way I do it.
It may well be a humidity or static electricity problem. I have not tried the air nozzle, but I NEED to fix this issue.
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I have had some of the same issue and what we have done is tap the paper vertically oir air hose both work. But if you do have some of the powder left and it does get that shie effect on the shirt where there should have been none the we have found by reheating the finished shirt under the press without the transfer paper and just using a teflon sheet the glue/powder will disappear most time. you can also use a little letter off to get the remaining out very easily.
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We have the same problem with using transfer powder as well and what I've started doing was taken my finger and rubbing the spot's where the unwanted powder is, takes a little longer but it saves the garment.
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Darryl, do you mean rubbing the GARMENT after heat pressing? Or rubbing the powder off the paper with your finger.
@ aauusa, I've not heard the term "letter off" before today. Do you mean spot cleaning solution through a spot cleaning gun...like Methylene Chloride or Tex Out?
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@ Crooked rubbing the extra powder off the paper, you can feel it and know that spot will be a problem
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@ Crooked rubbing the extra powder off the paper, you can feel it and know that spot will be a problem
a soft paint or make-up brush is good for this, and also less likely to mess up the ink if the powder is close.
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we get ours from sun belt lettering just dab a little on a cloth a rub Methylene Chloride
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@ Crooked rubbing the extra powder off the paper, you can feel it and know that spot will be a problem
a soft paint or make-up brush is good for this, and also less likely to mess up the ink if the powder is close.
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Frog, do you use the soft brush you are describing before the oven? I think the powder is kinda hard to remove AFTER the curing process.
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@ Crooked rubbing the extra powder off the paper, you can feel it and know that spot will be a problem
a soft paint or make-up brush is good for this, and also less likely to mess up the ink if the powder is close.
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Frog, do you use the soft brush you are describing before the oven? I think the powder is kinda hard to remove AFTER the curing process.
Yeah you're right, it sort of bakes on so when I have done it it was before curing that's after a shake after a blow and all that stuff. It's that damn static electricity sometimes that just makes it stick even before it's baked on.
I guess 3deeps technique catches the stuff that's still there
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