TSB
screen printing => Screen Making => Topic started by: 3Deep on October 30, 2012, 02:13:47 PM
-
I seen that some shops tape thier screens front and back, I only tape my screens on the squeege side only with 2" or 3" tape never really had a problem with ink getting pass. When I first started printing I would tape back and front, but for some reason just started doing the front only, any of you tape both sides and why. I think I know some reasons but I'll see what you guys say.
Darryl
-
i do it because it protects the mesh on the back...and for ink seepage.
-
I do it when I am printing a design close to the edge of the board with a full sized squeegee to reduce risk of breakthough and ink leaks.
-
Which is why I always suggest purchasing a 19" scoop coater for std auto screens. We use very little tape even for WB screens.
-
3" on squeegee side and scotch tape for pinholes on the shirt side.
-
Tape on shirt sideand we just do not have Newman pop issues.
Tape on well makes cleanup easier. Tape cheaper than labor.
-
I only tape the squeegee side now mostly due to when you run waterbase inks, the tape on the print side acts like a speed bump and will cause emulsion break down along the edge of the tape on longerish runs.
-
Tape on the squeegee only here for most jobs.
-
3" on squeegee side and scotch tape for pinholes on the shirt side.
same here
-
19" coater works amazingly well for us, tape only makes an appearance for pinholes and wb because we tend to get messy. however that is changing since we are moving away from the M3's.
-
What are you going to use now Jay? I know had some of those panelframes
Darryl
-
Hey guys and gals,
We use 3" tape on the inside as well. But we ditched the scotch tape a long time ago. And it has the tendency to clog things up if your not using a dip tank. (We do use a dip tank) But instead of taking care of any pinholes or potential pinholes with scotch tape we just use a small dab of emulsion applied with a plastic card. Since we do the screens in advance they are ready to go by the time we need them.
And of course we should ask "Why do we have pinholes?" and track down the real problems instead reaching for the quick fix but yes, from time to time I believe every shop gets them. At least I would like to think so!
-
M3s. 3" tape, squeegee side only.
Emulsion blockout for WB screens. Blockout pen and/or blue painters tape for plastisol.
Going to 4" tape soon, 3 just isn't quite enough with the roller frames and wb for us. You are limited with the wide coater with roller frames as you get that wretched puddling in the softened corners. I don't like dealing with that in reclaim. If we used statics I'd use the widest coater you could fit in there comfortably, which is what I do on the big diamond chase frames we have for flatstock.
-
19" coater works amazingly well for us, tape only makes an appearance for pinholes and wb because we tend to get messy. however that is changing since we are moving away from the M3's.
What are you changing to? What you gonna do with them M3's?
-
Sell them to me...... ;D
-
they don't fit my system. honestly, they are more hassle than they are worth. I get the tension thing but 40 newtons, hell 30 newtons, is overkill if you ask me. they are too hard to coat, handle, rack, tape, clean with dip tank etc. . just a waste to us. I only have around 20 of them, all bought brand new. they are sitting in a pile with ripped mesh. I have no clue what they are worth, lightly used.
ever since we messed with squeegie duro's and angles, we are getting better prints out of our panelframes. they are not ideal, I would rather have the shurloc system, but the panels actually work.
ok - flame away.
-
I agree with you Homer I tension up some frames a few weeks ago and while I was doing something else I heard the screens ripping kinda sucked, so 20 to 25 newtons is fine with me, if I could get and keep 40n I would but hey I use a lot of statics.
Darryl
-
To each their own Homer. No flaming from me. Some don't get the results for whatever reason. I could go on and on about what they've done for us and why/how others don't get the same results but I think we've beat that horse enough and should probably wait a few months before we have another discussion about tension. My thoughts are purely disappointment that a good shop didn't have success with newmans, nothing to flame about. I'm sure the reasons for lack of results goes pretty deep and would take an in depth visit to uncover why.
You'll have no problems selling those frames. Post some pics of their condition and I can tell you what you can get for them. If they are virtually spotless then you can get good money for them and don't let someone beat you down on price. They are worth more than the typical $15-20 you see for used frames, especially if they are clean and well kept. On the same note, I have quite a few shurloc EZ frames that are sitting in a corner collecting dust that might be a good swap for your newmans. The shurlocs that are busting aren't being replaced right now, I'm focusing on stretching newmans first then when I'm done with them I'll work on getting the shurlocs back into production.
I just took our panel frames out of the corner and had some panels sent here by accident last week so I installed 3 of them. 1 busted but the other 2 are hovering around 25 newtons on a 195/55 mesh count. I've got newmans with the same mesh count at 35 newtons so I could do some direct comparison testing if I get the time.
-
19" coater works amazingly well for us, tape only makes an appearance for pinholes and wb because we tend to get messy. however that is changing since we are moving away from the M3's.
What are you changing to? What you gonna do with them M3's?
Alan, if you get any more M3's in your shop, I'm going to come over there and vomit on all of them.
-
BTW I'm sitting on a few hundred newmans meshed up (25x 36) Not really interested in piecing it out but if any one is interested in 50 or more make me an offer.