screen printing > Ink and Chemicals
Ultra Smooth print
LuxInks:
Right on Clark, I'll lower it down to around 30-35 and see if that helps.
I appreciate the input!
Paul
ebscreen:
I'd switch the order of those mesh counts too.
230 UB, sharp hard squeegee, decent pressure, steep angle
156 top, softer squeegee, less pressure
That's what we do for the best white I've seen.
JBLUE:
Give yourself a little more angle when you back the pressure off. Too much pressure can push the ink past the fibers and allow them to stick up. Then when you go over it with that 230 its not enough to bury what is now sticking up. I never had good luck with either of those whites. I use Wilflex Quick White for the base and it does a pretty nice job through a 156. I just got 5 gallons of the Xenon from Sonny and this stuff makes an underbase like you would not believe. Super soft and it holds down the fibers extremely well on high mesh. Good stuff so far.
Colin:
Until you find a white you are happy with, here's a trick you can use.
This assumes you have a cooldown station right after your flash:
1) Grab a high tension high mesh screen. Expose it without an image. Put this in the open head right after your flash.
2) Use a hard 70/90/70, 80 or 90 durometer blade (I find 80 works best). Add a small amount of clear or scrap ink to your screen as a lubricant.
3) Now when your white comes out from under the flash unit, do a hard print stroke. This will help to smooth out any imperfections in your print. If you find the white is a bit tacky, use a lubricant/silicone spray of choice on the bottom of the screen. If you are using a good "fast flashing" white, a lubricant spray should not be necessary.
We are essentially "heat pressing" the base white. Done correctly you will not loose any of the brightness or detail in the print. I have seen many side by side examples of both multicolor spot prints and high end sim-process done this way. These result in a far superior print.
Good luck with your search!
blue moon:
--- Quote from: Colin on May 16, 2011, 01:56:09 PM ---Until you find a white you are happy with, here's a trick you can use.
This assumes you have a cooldown station right after your flash:
1) Grab a high tension high mesh screen. Expose it without an image. Put this in the open head right after your flash.
2) Use a hard 70/90/70, 80 or 90 durometer blade (I find 80 works best). Add a small amount of clear or scrap ink to your screen as a lubricant.
3) Now when your white comes out from under the flash unit, do a hard print stroke. This will help to smooth out any imperfections in your print. If you find the white is a bit tacky, use a lubricant/silicone spray of choice on the bottom of the screen. If you are using a good "fast flashing" white, a lubricant spray should not be necessary.
We are essentially "heat pressing" the base white. Done correctly you will not loose any of the brightness or detail in the print. I have seen many side by side examples of both multicolor spot prints and high end sim-process done this way. These result in a far superior print.
Good luck with your search!
--- End quote ---
thanx Colin!
where's a Karma button when you need one?
pierre
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