TSB
screen printing => General Screen Printing => Topic started by: Shawn (EIP) on February 17, 2012, 12:28:20 PM
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(http://s16.postimage.org/58jq4055x/Nasty_logo_purple_and_yellow_small.jpg)
actual file is 300 res
thinking white under , solid yellow , 1/2 tone pink , white high light
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Halftone the underbase as well, depending on qty i would use two whites.
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Halftone the underbase as well, depending on qty i would use two whites.
probably a measly 25 shirts
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Shawn
am I understanding you are quoting a job without a ballpark of how many shirt they are going to do...
sam
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What type of reg marks are you using? I used to use a fat mark and had alot of trouble registering jobs. I went to small centerlines and bullseyes in the corners and line up each screen to a film positive and bam I cut my setup times by more than half. Sometimes a small change can make a big difference.
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Shawn
am I understanding you are quoting a job without a ballpark of how many shirt they are going to do...
sam
They want 25 to 50 depending on price...
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([url]http://s16.postimage.org/58jq4055x/Nasty_logo_purple_and_yellow_small.jpg[/url])
actual file is 300 res
thinking white under , solid yellow , 1/2 tone pink , white high light
On my manual I would P/F/P the white using it as the underbase and the showing white. Then depending how accurate your press and you are at printing, print the yellow and pink meeting each other. (the seps have to be dead on and you have to hold the dots.) I wouldn't do this at a really high LPI. I think a little larger dot would look better with this design (it is a seventy’s or eighty’s looking design). Maybe a 40 LPI. If you want to make sure your ok. I would print a full yellow flash then the pink on top or the other way around if you have a really sticky yellow on that much coverage.
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Your yellow should fade out at the top where the pink gets solid... keeps the color clean and the hand soft.
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1/2 tone setting and recomedations? Using 255's for everything on this one.
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The best thing about using the hilite white would be that it would step on the wet pink and blend it nicely, and yep just like scott said you have to fade out the yellow as well.
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If you want those killer seamless fades pigmented discharge would yield a superior print with amazing color and hand.
You asked!
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...just wanted to say that I really dig this design, the retro early 80s' feel speaks to me. simple too. Is that a font?
8)
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For 25-50 of this I'd sub it out to someone with a DTG. This kind of design tends to look better when printed digitally...
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pfp underbase with halftones due to the light burst things, yellow with half tones, pink with half tones, maybe a high white. underbase 156,the rest with 230's. how are you going to sep it?
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For 25-50 of this I'd sub it out to someone with a DTG. This kind of design tends to look better when printed digitally...
bump that junk....make you money endless. just charge accordingly and you will be good.
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BASE WHT-230
LT GOLD-280
186 RED-280
PMS #513 or LT. Violet-280
H.L. WHT-280
at 55 lpi
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For 25-50 of this I'd sub it out to someone with a DTG. This kind of design tends to look better when printed digitally...
bump that junk....make you money endless. just charge accordingly and you will be good.
That's what I meant...I'd rather spend my time printing a couple hundred spot color shirts and make five or six hundred bucks, plus farm out this job for another hundred or so in profit. Also, no matter how meticulous you are with the halftones and the seps, it won't look like the image on the customer's monitor...I don't do DTG but this would be a perfect job for it...You'd be done printing in the amount of time it took to mess around with the seps and screens and registration. The customer would be happier with the finished product, and you'd make money.
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50 minimum, discharge purple, yellow, white, all 280 mesh, 51.272654245 lpi.
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50 minimum, discharge purple, yellow, white, all 280 mesh, 51.272654245 lpi.
You really know your stuff. I usually go with a little higher line screen something like 51.272654246 LPI, I know, you don't think you would see a differance but it shows. LOL
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I get real bad moire at that count, unless the moon is in the seventh house and the chair is against the wall.
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I get real bad moire at that count, unless the moon is in the seventh house and the chair is against the wall.
I hear you. I used to take my LPI to 10 decimal places but it was too hard to keep my pulse under 35 beats a min and print at decent pace. I guess you have to let quality suffer sometimes to get good production.
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Ok, here it is, Hoodies "of course" 10 color sporty w/ 2 quartz. 6 color w/ flash. So figure flash,cool,yellow,green,orange,flash,blue,pink - Whats the best way to keep from ink sticking to screens, lighten pressure on floods,(silicone). ::) ::)
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([url]http://s16.postimage.org/58jq4055x/Nasty_logo_purple_and_yellow_small.jpg[/url])
actual file is 300 res
thinking white under , solid yellow , 1/2 tone pink , white high light
On my manual I would P/F/P the white using it as the underbase and the showing white. Then depending how accurate your press and you are at printing, print the yellow and pink meeting each other. (the seps have to be dead on and you have to hold the dots.) I wouldn't do this at a really high LPI. I think a little larger dot would look better with this design (it is a seventy’s or eighty’s looking design). Maybe a 40 LPI. If you want to make sure your ok. I would print a full yellow flash then the pink on top or the other way around if you have a really sticky yellow on that much coverage.
Why oh MHM owner would you put this on your manual???????
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([url]http://s16.postimage.org/58jq4055x/Nasty_logo_purple_and_yellow_small.jpg[/url])
actual file is 300 res
thinking white under , solid yellow , 1/2 tone pink , white high light
On my manual I would P/F/P the white using it as the underbase and the showing white. Then depending how accurate your press and you are at printing, print the yellow and pink meeting each other. (the seps have to be dead on and you have to hold the dots.) I wouldn't do this at a really high LPI. I think a little larger dot would look better with this design (it is a seventy’s or eighty’s looking design). Maybe a 40 LPI. If you want to make sure your ok. I would print a full yellow flash then the pink on top or the other way around if you have a really sticky yellow on that much coverage.
Why oh MHM owner would you put this on your manual???????
Shawn has the same manual as I do. So I wanted to tell him how I would run it on my manual. I still run all my jobs under 50 on my manual. I like printing manually. I am slowly putting more and more small jobs on the auto.
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our manual collects dust, unless I can run it faster on the manual, it goes auto.
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our manual collects dust, unless I can run it faster on the manual, it goes auto.
I hear you. I will get there.
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our manual collects dust, unless I can run it faster on the manual, it goes auto.
Why keep it then?
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For 25-50 of this I'd sub it out to someone with a DTG. This kind of design tends to look better when printed digitally...
bump that junk....make you money endless. just charge accordingly and you will be good.
That's what I meant...I'd rather spend my time printing a couple hundred spot color shirts and make five or six hundred bucks, plus farm out this job for another hundred or so in profit. Also, no matter how meticulous you are with the halftones and the seps, it won't look like the image on the customer's monitor...I don't do DTG but this would be a perfect job for it...You'd be done printing in the amount of time it took to mess around with the seps and screens and registration. The customer would be happier with the finished product, and you'd make money.
We have manual and auto. We would print this on our Brother GT782 It will come out much better than screenprinting for that many shirts and design. If you can sub it out, you would be better off.
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I use it for sleeve prints and long leg prints. I actually use it once or twice a month. I am actually going to downsize it to probably a 4/1 or 1/1. I don't need a 6/4. It's a cheapo press though. I could maybe get $100 for it.