TSB
screen printing => Screen Making => Topic started by: 3Deep on October 04, 2018, 11:38:32 AM
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Ok, I know some you have said that S mesh is the jam!!! so I jumped on them too, ordered them from a few different companies, nothing wrong with the screens it's all me I've popped just about everyone I've got LOL. I think I'll stick with Spotcolor Supply and there saati screens, they are nice and tight and I can be a little rougher on them than those s mesh, print wise I don't really see that much of a difference except for the 135 S when printing white ink. just my rant for today. ;)
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We are in the opposite boat here. I wish I had the cash to switch out my 50 qty 160 mesh I got from Spot color to 150 s mesh. I have popped a lot of them too, but honestly its the nature of the business I feel.
Its why I charge a screen fee. That screen fee partially pays for my reorder of the next batch of screens. 150 s mesh has changed the way we print here.
To each their own.
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you def. have to be more delicate with them.
Is anyone else having issues with spot color? We've been getting less and less tight screens, and overall have just had pretty lackluster service.
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It's the best when you get a screen tech from another company that didn't use S mesh. They cannot wrap their head around the extra care required.
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you def. have to be more delicate with them.
Is anyone else having issues with spot color? We've been getting less and less tight screens, and overall have just had pretty lackluster service.
Have you brought your disappointment to their attention? Up to this, it's all been thumbs up from our members.
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I've reached out to 3Deep with specific instructions. Contact me if any of you are having issues with Murakami S Mesh so I can help. Each shop is different, some universal screen handling procedures of fine mesh need to be followed.
Al - 323.697.4334 Anytime
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you def. have to be more delicate with them.
Is anyone else having issues with spot color? We've been getting less and less tight screens, and overall have just had pretty lackluster service.
Have you brought your disappointment to their attention? Up to this, it's all been thumbs up from our members.
yep, sure have. wondering if it's just us though.
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With as much as it's talked about, makes me wonder if maybe I'm doing something wrong. I've only ever popped a few screens (flood stroke hit buttons on polos). Have been using s-mesh since day one on the auto.
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Eric, I'll let you know, I should be getting a box in soon. Maybe tomorrow?
I plan on testing them all as we are a bit slow.
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Oh and Darryl... I haven't replaced a screen yet because it lost tension.
They never last that long. LOL
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I just dropped off 3 cases of screens there the other day. They were QCing the completed screens with a tension meter. I have not had a single problem from them.
I had a problem I created and they tossed in a free restretch on one frame for me.
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We stretch smesh in Newman's took a little different softening technique but we have no issues.
Think you are using statics but definitely thinking it might be your handling. They do require some careful handling.
mooseman
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We stretch smesh in Newman's took a little different softening technique but we have no issues.
Think you are using statics but definitely thinking it might be your handling. They do require some careful handling.
mooseman
As I've said several times, I'm not a very active printer and have only converted about 6 Newmans frames to S-mesh and have not ripped one...yet. And I'm stretching (ala Mooseman's method) and getting to an easy 25-28 Newtons.
I guess this post is primarily for issues on static frames so my comment may be irrelevant.
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you def. have to be more delicate with them.
Is anyone else having issues with spot color? We've been getting less and less tight screens, and overall have just had pretty lackluster service.
Have you brought your disappointment to their attention? Up to this, it's all been thumbs up from our members.
yep, sure have. wondering if it's just us though.
I am sorry for any issues you had please contact me on my cell to talk more 4045834903. We would like to fix any problems you might have.
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I like Shurloc S mesh panels for Newmans since the mesh never enters the channel, it rests on a plastic strip instead of wrapped around a thin edge which can have nicks and dents in older frames. If anyone is stretching S mesh manually, here is a good trick. Tear off a piece of 1/2" masking tape the length of the channel. Place 1/2 the width along the edge of the channel, the inside edge, and leave half over the channel. Then use a credit card and wrap it underneath and around the sharp inside edge smoothly. It can be done in one continual motion to wrap it around and get no folds. This acts as a shock absorb-er and softens the edge so it doesn't chew away at the S mesh. On some newmans there is also a sharp corner at the end of the roller. I will place a small bit of tape over this as well. Above all soften the corners properly before adding too much tension. Smartmesh reaches tension quick due to low elongation properties, quicker than any other mesh.
If you use an auto stretch table do not just flip the air switch on. This can take mesh up to fast and past a good tension sometimes depending on how the mesh was captured. On S mesh use the air valves and watch your tension gauge and measure in both directions constantly. Tap the mesh surface to make sure the meter is reading correctly, it can be +/- 2n and be important to tap mesh towards the end of the stretching. One other trick is to drop tension in the narrow direction of the screen by 1-2 newtons. This helps absorb the momentary higher tension caused by off contact and squeegee pressure between the corner and the frame.
After 2-3 re-tensions you will have a good work hardened screen at excellent print tensions. (which is mesh count specific) The amount of tension your screens can handle in the tension range of the mesh printing on press depends on how well it is tuned up. Perfectly level pallets on all arms? Perfect equal off contact on all heads, often at 2-3mm? Proper duro squeegee, angle? = higher tension is possible: 35-40 on Newmans using only T or HD mesh. (Thicker threads) Statics top out at 30 without warping or bending the side bar radically. If you run your presses hard, pallets could be tweaked out of level slightly, off contact may vary? then 22-25n may be easier to print and accommodate a less than well tuned press, Smartmesh holds register anywhere in the tension range and avoids accumulated elongation caused by mesh warming up to the squeegee stroke forces in one direction constantly.
Call me if anyone has any issues
Al 323.697.4334
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PS Spot Color is one of our best restretchers of S mesh. His statics are as good if not better than what we stretch here on the west coast. Thanks Scott for all your efforts. He is a good source for restretching Murakami S mesh.
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As I mention it's all on me from my rough handling of screens, plus I have a mix of screens and sometimes I just grab one and go to work, yes if I had all s mesh then it might be different, and NO knock on Spot Color they do a great job. The saati mesh frames to me work well and I can be just a little rough with them, and they are tension just and nice as they do the S mesh frames, trying to teach an old dog new tricks here ;D
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come on D, you got to treat them like a lady...don't be in a hurry, take your time..........can't be smacking them all around, banging against the wall...............well....unless that's your thing ;D :P
proper tensioned S mesh and DTS = I'd quit before giving up either.
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I find that the difference between a print from a 28 newton 135 and a 20 newton 135 is not enough of a difference to risk it popping in a rack. it is significantly more prone to damage if the tension is higher. Unlike when I used to push the limits on a 110 T mesh, ( I would get up to 60 newtons on those babies) I don't see the benefit of higher mesh s mesh.
With the proper tension, I don't think we would ever switch as a bit of extra handling means far far superior printing. Automatics were built for s mesh especially if you have a press that can do fast strokes.
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you def. have to be more delicate with them.
Is anyone else having issues with spot color? We've been getting less and less tight screens, and overall have just had pretty lackluster service.
Agreed. And I DID bring it up to their attention multiple times and didn’t get anywhere.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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We get our screens stretched by Murakami. They are perfect. We tell them what tension we want and they come back as requested. If we don`t request a certain tension level then they come back stretched to the upper limit for that particular mesh count. Not sure though if Murakami offers that service in the US.
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you def. have to be more delicate with them.
Is anyone else having issues with spot color? We've been getting less and less tight screens, and overall have just had pretty lackluster service.
No complaints about the screen quality. On a side note: We have started getting Sefar SE mesh and have been very happy with it so far.
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NBC mesh seems to be very much underrated. It`s cheaper and equally good as Murakami S mesh.
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Spot Color is great I email them I need labels for there boxes, Scott sends them right away I include what mesh counts I would like and what I would like them custom stretched to. And don't have to worry about them again. Great company.
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Hello this is Scott With Spot Color Supply. I wanted to thank you all for your post the good and the bad. While Brannon takes care of making sure you get some of the best screens in the industry. I need to make sure you get the best customer service possible. I want to apologize to anyone here that I have not taken care of with speed and clarity. Going forward I will make sure we are better at commutation with our customers. We will be moving Emily up to customer service to make sure your emails get responded to with quick and updated information. You are still more than welcome to contact me or Brannon any time.
If anyone has any issues they would like to talk to me about call or email me sales@spotcolorsupply.com. I would like to offer anyone that has had any problems with us 15% off of our re-stretch services. Please PM me with your issues and I will get you a coupon code sent on over.
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Ok, I know some you have said that S mesh is the jam!!! so I jumped on them too, ordered them from a few different companies, nothing wrong with the screens it's all me I've popped just about everyone I've got LOL. I think I'll stick with Spotcolor Supply and there saati screens, they are nice and tight and I can be a little rougher on them than those s mesh, print wise I don't really see that much of a difference except for the 135 S when printing white ink. just my rant for today. ;)
Are you running the thin thread with the same pressure as your regular mesh? If you back off the pressure a bit you should see a pretty big difference between a 150/48 then say a regular old 155, or even a 110 for that matter. Since you can print with less pressure you can lay the ink right on top of the shirt easier, giving you more opacity.
We might pop 1 screen per month. And every single time it is our fault. It gets nicked in the dip tank, or a corner of a screen will run into the mesh of another if everything isn't racked properly. Screen guy got too close with the pressure washer and caused a micro hole that went unnoticed, or on the stretching table we thought that 32N was "close enough" and it'll hold (it has before...).
The zippers will do it too. Foam taped to the back of the screen or a sweatshirt sleeve doubled or tripled over and taped will fix that. But you should still use a notched squeegee or a 4"er.
Don't give up on the thin thread! You can print faster with less pressure which means higher opacity. With the right art, pressure / speed settings, EOM, you can get one hit whites a lot of the time. We do it regularly with 135/55. This means more production! Better to spend the time on screen making, proper handling etc than extra time on press. We use newmans so if we pop one we can stretch another one up, I would probably cry if we were popping statics so I feel your frustration there.
NBC mesh seems to be very much underrated. It`s cheaper and equally good as Murakami S mesh.
Agreed. NBC rules. Specs are very comparable to Murakami. They hook it up for us and I find their pricing is awesome. 135/55, 150/48, 230/40, 280/35 is what we run at the moment. Have used both the beta and alpha series with much success. The one area where I think Murakami might have a leg up is with the LX mesh (fused knuckles I think), but I have not compared.
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Ok, I know some you have said that S mesh is the jam!!! so I jumped on them too, ordered them from a few different companies, nothing wrong with the screens it's all me I've popped just about everyone I've got LOL. I think I'll stick with Spotcolor Supply and there saati screens, they are nice and tight and I can be a little rougher on them than those s mesh, print wise I don't really see that much of a difference except for the 135 S when printing white ink. just my rant for today. ;)
Dave at Bimm Ridder is going to lose some sleep over this. He lives for screen tension the thin mesh and Newmann Rollers. I would keep a lookout for a email..
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Spot Color is great I email them I need labels for there boxes, Scott sends them right away I include what mesh counts I would like and what I would like them custom stretched to. And don't have to worry about them again. Great company.
Labels??? Scott sends you UPS label?
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Spot Color is great I email them I need labels for there boxes, Scott sends them right away I include what mesh counts I would like and what I would like them custom stretched to. And don't have to worry about them again. Great company.
Labels??? Scott sends you UPS label?
Yes some customers like to use our ups account to ship frames to us. Then we bill them one way in shipping. Our discount is sometimes better per box.
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Spot Color is great I email them I need labels for there boxes, Scott sends them right away I include what mesh counts I would like and what I would like them custom stretched to. And don't have to worry about them again. Great company.
Labels??? Scott sends you UPS label?
Yes some customers like to use our ups account to ship frames to us. Then we bill them one way in shipping. Our discount is sometimes better per box.
No, just use your account but dont bill me! ;)
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We have been popping a ton of them. Shipping from the west coast sucks. Wishing there was a stretching service nearby.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Lol no ! We only give one way free shipping next time you need to send in frames I can quote you what it would be to ship them on our ups account. Sorry I was logged into Brannon account when I responded. I
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Lol no ! We only give one way free shipping it next time you need to send in frames I can quote you what it would be to ship them on our ups account. Sorry I was logged into Brannon account when I responded. I
You know I am just forking with ya! Yall are the best, we go through tons of screens and they hold up well, if people are popping them, more than likely its carelessness, from my experience anyway.
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For years I used regular Saati T mesh and got pretty good results with not too many screens popping.
Over the last year I've been switching to S type mesh, I use NBC because that's whats available here. At first I stretched 150 to about 28n, had them popping all the time.
(We stretch in house), I now stretch to 22n and get a good result and they last a lot longer.
I haven't done this long enough to see how fast the tension will drop. I replace screens when they get to 15n.
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I washed out 2 screens yesterday and let them rest on each other, and my pressman came in this morning and they dried on themselves. So instead of just reclaiming them and burning 2 new screens, he tried to pry them apart. Popped both of them. They were brand new and hadnt even put ink in the frame once.
Im a little miffed.
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I've not had one pop on press yet (knock on wood) but I've had them pop during reclaim and once I had laid one down getting ready to remove the ink and zip!! it went, could have had a pinhole or laid it on top of something....maybe I will get a few more since I'm trying to faze out all my old woods frames.
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Eric, I'll let you know, I should be getting a box in soon. Maybe tomorrow?
I plan on testing them all as we are a bit slow.
Clearly, I overestimated how fast these were coming back to me... totally my fault.
I just measured all 11 screens (135, 150, and 225's).
From 21-26 with the majority of that bell curve on 24 and some change. The 21 was on a 135 and the 26+ was on a 150, I also had another 225 at 26 but just about everything else was a solid 24 and some change.
I'm happy.