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General => General Discussion and ??? => Topic started by: ZooCity on May 23, 2018, 01:46:56 PM
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Has anyone with non-concrete floors found a quality solution for the flooring in their reclaim area?
We have wood floors here. Tile is my go to for a situation like this but our lease term is not long enough to justify the roi for tile at the moment. Considering redoing the sub, using a leveling compound and pouring epoxy over that.
Sheet and click flooring options all appear to be to susceptible to our reclaim chems. The last sheeting in the area most certainly was it's practically melted at this point.
Thanks in advance.
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You could use vinyl flooring (call roll goods) or you could use sheets of tile board and seal the seams, both these materials can be replaced when worn out cheaper than going with ceramic tiles.
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Has anyone with non-concrete floors found a quality solution for the flooring in their reclaim area?
We have wood floors here. Tile is my go to for a situation like this but our lease term is not long enough to justify the roi for tile at the moment. Considering redoing the sub, using a leveling compound and pouring epoxy over that.
Sheet and click flooring options all appear to be to susceptible to our reclaim chems. The last sheeting in the area most certainly was it's practically melted at this point.
Thanks in advance.
at our previous location we had wood floors - our pick and pack / shipping department was directly under the reclaim area. we had tons of leaks and lots of issues even with our epoxy floor. i dont think we had a stable enough subfloor to keep the epoxy stable. after a few years with the epoxy floor it cracked and leaked again. our epoxy might have been too think which caused it to separate from the wood. for reference we used a 1/2" plywood over the 100+ year old maple floor and put epoxy on that. i think if you prepared your subfloor better than us you would have better results.
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Good point on the sub. Our floors are the Western version of yours, all absurdly large pine beams and a true 4" of t&g up top. They probably shift a little every year. Did you use a leveling compound over the sub?
I wish I could use something off the roll but the chem drips disintegrate vinyl. I might dig into super tough roll options again though since I'm hitting a wall with ideas to avoid the expense of tile. There might be something out there with a wear layer that could hold up for a few years.
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Good point on the sub. Our floors are the Western version of yours, all absurdly large pine beams and a true 4" of t&g up top. They probably shift a little every year. Did you use a leveling compound over the sub?
I wish I could use something off the roll but the chem drips disintegrate vinyl. I might dig into super tough roll options again though since I'm hitting a wall with ideas to avoid the expense of tile. There might be something out there with a wear layer that could hold up for a few years.
we used a leveling compound over the seams and some low spots.
are you able to put a skim coat of concrete over the subfloor? it might help the epoxy to stick...
i think i had pics of the floor at one point but might have deleted after we moved.
"chem drips disintegrate vinyl" - well our ink is PVC based and our solvents are made to dissolve the inks. maybe there is a flooring made out of polypropylene or something? what do chemical labs use for flooring?
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make the floor out of anything you want, then coat the entire thing and 6" up the walls in roll on bed liner. I swear by this stuff. It fills cracks, it's flexible, durable, chemical resistant, not too expensive, easy to apply and lasts forever. Oh and it's gritty for traction on wet floors..my whole washout sink is wood, covered in bed liner. Harbor freight has it 50/gal I believe.
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Haha, I would love to rhino line the whole joint. Will actually look into that.
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We built a raised wet room and the ugliest linoleum we could find is holding up well into its third year.
We've put some gashes in it moving stuff etc but no noticeable chem damage.
We have a membrane beneath it just in case.
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Maybe the stuff we laid down wasn't ugly enough...
Found these:
https://www.advantaflooring.com/tuff-seal/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8sKQgsOc2wIVg47ICh0xxQ6pEAAYAiAAEgKNT_D_BwE (https://www.advantaflooring.com/tuff-seal/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8sKQgsOc2wIVg47ICh0xxQ6pEAAYAiAAEgKNT_D_BwE)
Maybe do: basic sub, membrane, this stuff.
Comes out to around $6.81/sf plus transitions. Wouldn't need much for a sub. If it lasted we could move it which would probably make it worth it, ordered a samp to see if it'll hold up.
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Yeah, this stuff is like 1984 wood grain at it's finest.
I wonder if linoleum is a mis-nomer like Rollerblade.
At any rate, CitraPaste, GemZyne and Renuit seem to do it little harm. Though it sees little of the last one.
I started looking into the type of flooring you linked, but this was right when we were moving and local availability won out.
Let us know your thoughts on the sample. I kind of can't believe there isn't more available for this type of use.
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To follow up, the advanta floor sample we tested didn't fare well with chem exposure, it basically got "soft" quickly, otherwise nice looking product.
We laid down a specialty t&g sub over sleepers to level and I rolled epoxy on the whole thing, ending with a coat with some "sharkbite" traction in it. We used an sw product called "Armorseal", 2 part. Bathtubbed the epoxy/paint up the wall a bit. Glued up quality, commercial grade frp on the backwall and finished with pvc trim.
So far, surprisingly good. Chem standing on the surface (and how best to clean this up without simply spreading it....mopping isn't ideal) appears to be the only thing that could ruin the party. Using lots of floor drip trays and need to add a few more but the epoxied sub panels have shrugged off a ton of foot and cart traffic. Traction is nice and safe.
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Use spill containment pallets from unline and cover the entire floor with them.
Eric from Night Owl has them. Eric pictures?
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Use spill containment pallets from unline and cover the entire floor with them.
Eric from Night Owl has them. Eric pictures?
yep...let me see what i can find...i know i have some pics somewhere, as well as a video on IG.
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Wood floors here as well. I have a crappy peel and stick tile job at the moment. If something over flows it still leaks water to the ground level so my short term solution is just a sheet of plastic covering the tile at the moment lol. I think my next plan is to redo the peel and stick tile a little better then cover it with Flex Seal honestly.
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Here you go! we vacuum these every week.
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In our old shop, we put down a plastic sheet, with thin sub-flooring particle board on top of that, and used vinyl peel and stick tiles, caulked around the edges. It held up for 15 to 20 years, until we moved last year.
Steve
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The spill pallets look excellent. We need our space for cart traffic though and it's super narrow.
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Have any of you guys ever looked at vinyl plank? Unlike peel & stick squares, it's made so that each plank overlaps the next & they stick to each other, instead of the floor. It creates a floating floor, with no need for underlayment (under normal use.) No idea how resistant it is to chemicals, but it's got to be at least as sturdy as peel stick.
https://www.homedepot.com/s/allure%2520vinyl%2520plank%2520flooring?NCNI-5 (https://www.homedepot.com/s/allure%2520vinyl%2520plank%2520flooring?NCNI-5)
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We have wooden floors. I covered the area with linoleum (from a roll).
This protects the floor very well. However, it becomes EXTREMELY slippery when wet. We put over the linoleum the grid style rubber mats wherever we would be standing/walking.
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Have any of you guys ever looked at vinyl plank? Unlike peel & stick squares, it's made so that each plank overlaps the next & they stick to each other, instead of the floor. It creates a floating floor, with no need for underlayment (under normal use.) No idea how resistant it is to chemicals, but it's got to be at least as sturdy as peel stick.
https://www.homedepot.com/s/allure%2520vinyl%2520plank%2520flooring?NCNI-5 (https://www.homedepot.com/s/allure%2520vinyl%2520plank%2520flooring?NCNI-5)
There is some waterproof click flooring product out there now. A sales guy from the local flooring outfit couldn't get much for confirmation on chemical resistance though.
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You shouldn't have chemicals on the floor. Mainly water and possibly very diluted chemical.
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You shouldn't have chemicals on the floor. Mainly water and possibly very diluted chemical.
You also shouldn't pee on the toilet seat...but I do it anyway sometimes. Just clean it up when it happens and you're all good.
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Have any of you guys ever looked at vinyl plank? Unlike peel & stick squares, it's made so that each plank overlaps the next & they stick to each other, instead of the floor. It creates a floating floor, with no need for underlayment (under normal use.) No idea how resistant it is to chemicals, but it's got to be at least as sturdy as peel stick.
https://www.homedepot.com/s/allure%2520vinyl%2520plank%2520flooring?NCNI-5 (https://www.homedepot.com/s/allure%2520vinyl%2520plank%2520flooring?NCNI-5)
There is some waterproof click flooring product out there now. A sales guy from the local flooring outfit couldn't get much for confirmation on chemical resistance though.
I tried installing a vinyl click floor a few years ago, and it literally would not stay together. The flexibility of planks + a weak click system made it an assembly nightmare. I returned it. If that's the material, I hope the product has improved. And even if it's a waterproof rigid laminate, I'd investigate the click system. I've put two different brands in my home - one has stayed perfectly locked, another has a tendency for planks to come loose & slide. Not something I'd trust around water! But the overlapping adhesive vinyl has been great for bath use - definitely waterproof. (Not resistant to purple PVC primer though - ask me how I know! >:( But then, it is vinyl.)
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We put NuCore in our basement and it's going in our office soon. It comes from Floor&Decor. Last time I bought some the guy helping load said "nobody ever returns this stuff."