TSB
screen printing => Ink and Chemicals => Topic started by: Shanarchy on November 14, 2016, 03:10:07 PM
-
I ordered in a gallon to sample it. Printing on a Roq automatic with 150/48 S mesh
I feel it has the best properties/characteristics of any white I have used. Floods nicely, clears the screen easily (one stroke at a print speed of 10), doesn't climb the squeegee, and priced right.
But I'm not happy with the opacity. I tried a 65/90/65, 70/90/70, and 80 duro. Squeegee Angles of 5, 7, and 10. Speed down to 7. Double stroking. But seem to get the same result regardless. As of now I am only seeing this as a good underbase white. I'm finding I need to do a P-F-P-F-P to get what I consider a good white.
I'm currently using IC Legacy white. 70/90/70, one stroke, speed of 10 and get a real nice white P-F-P. But the Wilflex has much better properties (the IC does climb and needs a little more carding). For those of you using the Wilfelx Lava and are getting good results, any advice on what to do differently? I would really love to be able to make this our new white.
-
You do realize that is a re-branded wilflex ink? I think it's the amazing white from Wilflex
-
Yeah, buy some Quick White instead. The IC Legacy is on par with it but not consistent bucket to bucket.
I feel like each co makes a great white and then all the others are watered down versions for shops that won't invest in their ink.
And yes, every supply ryonet sells is rebranded, they are not a mfg. after all. So long as the pricing and product work, all good with me but can be a little circuitous when troubleshooting.
-
Wait, so Wilflex Lava White is really Wilflex Amazing White? I get Ryonet rebranding but why would Wilflex do that?
I've got a gallon sitting here that we've yet to try out. Gonna give it the old sniff test.
-
I was under the impression that the white was a different white, specifically for Ryonet. I believe Danny said he helped R&D it.
And I am guessing that their lava colors are basically stock colors of the Rio line. But that is a complete guess and I could be completely wrong.
-
Wait, so Wilflex Lava White is really Wilflex Amazing White? I get Ryonet rebranding but why would Wilflex do that?
I've got a gallon sitting here that we've yet to try out. Gonna give it the old sniff test.
Because they are Ryonet! That's what I was told. I was also told that the lava series is just a match of IC stock colors? Who knows?
-
The Lava Low Bleed is what Danny is helping formulate. (Among other products)
Considering my SFLB woe's.... I hope its ready soon!
-
Lava White is not Amazing White. It is a proprietary formula Wilflex is manufacturing exclusively for Ryonet.
From another thread:
...have Mark send you a gallon of the low bleed lava. We helped tweak on this formula for a couple months prior to them finalizing it. We used to run quick white, then switched to legacy as most of the time it performed really well until we had batch issues. But the low bleed lava I feel is a better version of the best batches of legacy with the consistency that wilflex is known for. We've gone through about 40 gallons of low bleed in the last few weeks and its been working really good here. We can run the stroke speed from 8-10(full speed) and the ink drops through the mesh nicely. If you like the good batches of legacy and have had good luck with quick white then the low bleed lava should be a great option for you. I have been getting lots of emails/texts from shops that are really digging it.
-
I ordered in a gallon to sample it. Printing on a Roq automatic with 150/48 S mesh
It feel it has the best properties/characteristics of and white I have used. Floods nicely, clears the screen easily (one stroke at a print speed of 10), doesn't climb the squeegee, and priced right.
But I'm not happy with the opacity. I tried a 65/90/65, 70/90/70, and 80 duro. Squeegee Angles of 5, 7, and 10. Speed down to 7. Double stroking. But seem to get the same result regardless. As of now I am only seeing this as a good underbase white. I'm finding I need to do a P-F-P-F-P to get what I consider a good white.
I'm currently using IC Legacy white. 70/90/70, one stroke, speed of 10 and get a real nice white P-F-P. But the Wilflex has much better properties (the IC does climb and needs a little more carding). For those of you using the Wilfelx Lava and are getting good results, any advice on what to do differently? I would really love to be able to make this our new white.
Iv'e been trying different whites and still can't find one to beat legacy in opacity, underbasing with a 225 s mesh, holding 8 colors on top with no lift off, unless one is a very large white open spot, but even that it holds very nice, fiber matt down, flashing, and over all feel. Not to mention, having used it for a while now, old shirts in personal use, seeing how it holds up very very nice over a few years time--- also important. I'd give the lava a test but I've been warned to not expect the same opacity, which rules it out right away, but I'd still have to try for myself in our system to see. It's hard to beat legacy.
-
Yeah, buy some Quick White instead. The IC Legacy is on par with it but not consistent bucket to bucket.
I feel like each co makes a great white and then all the others are watered down versions for shops that won't invest in their ink.
And yes, every supply ryonet sells is rebranded, they are not a mfg. after all. So long as the pricing and product work, all good with me but can be a little circuitous when troubleshooting.
hey Zoo, are you having opacity issues with the quick these days? It just doesnt seem have the super sweet coverage and optical brightness it had 6 months ago.
-
Does anybody else find inconsistencies in ink to be very annoying and counter productive? I had a 5er or onestroke seize up on me and I emailed our rep and they made it right.
I rarely have had a problem with wilflex whites, the last one was about 20 years ago. I expect inks to print the same from bucket to bucket. It's why I pay a premium for ink(not that Wilflex is that premium, but they aren't the cheapest).
-
Yeah, buy some Quick White instead. The IC Legacy is on par with it but not consistent bucket to bucket.
I feel like each co makes a great white and then all the others are watered down versions for shops that won't invest in their ink.
And yes, every supply ryonet sells is rebranded, they are not a mfg. after all. So long as the pricing and product work, all good with me but can be a little circuitous when troubleshooting.
hey Zoo, are you having opacity issues with the quick these days? It just doesnt seem have the super sweet coverage and optical brightness it had 6 months ago.
No major opacity issues or big changes in on press performance. We did have a nasty set of NL 6210's bleed on us though and we have done 10s of thousands of those shirts with quick and no issues. I'm thinking the dye methods have changed as the migration was yellow. Can't tell if it's the shirts or if something changed in the Quick. Wilflex didn't have any other reports on the lot that we used on that run. We have been underbasing with Performance White to play it safe. I love Quick, don't want to give it up, but need a little more security.
And yes, I hate inconsistent ink, especially white and that's why I use Wilflex.
-
Yeah, buy some Quick White instead. The IC Legacy is on par with it but not consistent bucket to bucket.
I feel like each co makes a great white and then all the others are watered down versions for shops that won't invest in their ink.
And yes, every supply ryonet sells is rebranded, they are not a mfg. after all. So long as the pricing and product work, all good with me but can be a little circuitous when troubleshooting.
hey Zoo, are you having opacity issues with the quick these days? It just doesnt seem have the super sweet coverage and optical brightness it had 6 months ago.
Few years straight of Legacy and never have inconsistency. Quick on the other hand, very inconsistent, one of the reasons I got away from it. In fact, I was given a free 5 of quick to give it a try again, no comparison what so ever in under basing, opacity, and dam it seemed to just disappear faster than a 5 of Legacy. I will say, we get our Legacy through Spot Color supply, not sure if how a supplier stores it has anything to do with it, but they get it direct from IC, it's always creamy always the same for us. Got a free 5 of Amazing bright white a couple months ago, not even half way through it, I said screw that, back to Legacy. I guess everyone is different, but for me, I haven't found a white to do what it's done. I will give Lava a try though for personal experience and to know how it does.
-
Distro appears to matter with Legacy. We got a sample bucket that sucked, hard. Next bucket was great, like night and day difference. I like Legacy better than Quick as a UB as the proprietary blowing agent in Quick can tend to make tiny pock marks/craters in your ub if you lay a lot down and flash with a quartz. Danny helped us check it out as a work around when that issue popped up with Quick so we do keep a little bit on hand.
-
That was a big issue we had with most too that pin tip sized pot holes, and with Leg we stopped having that. That is one thing the new Rutland Peak has is a very very smooth finish for underbasing, I just didn't think it compared to the Legacy. I think my rep Ginny from Ryo is coming tomorrow, I'll ask her to send us a sample of the Lava to give it an honest try, who knows, we may find it better.
-
That was a big issue we had with most too that pin tip sized pot holes, and with Leg we stopped having that. That is one thing the new Rutland Peak has is a very very smooth finish for underbasing, I just didn't think it compared to the Legacy. I think my rep Ginny from Ryo is coming tomorrow, I'll ask her to send us a sample of the Lava to give it an honest try, who knows, we may find it better.
I'll be interested to hear how you find it works for you being that we are both Legacy users. I will say the Lava has near perfect characteristics, much better than the Legacy. I just don't find it opaque enough for a P-F-P. That said, Danny switched to using Lava and he puts out some pretty amazing work.
-
Swapped over from Legacy to the new Lava stuff and love it. The opacity is a little bit lower, but i'd gladly trade that for the other areas it excels in.
-
I ordered in a gallon to sample it. Printing on a Roq automatic with 150/48 S mesh
It feel it has the best properties/characteristics of and white I have used. Floods nicely, clears the screen easily (one stroke at a print speed of 10), doesn't climb the squeegee, and priced right.
But I'm not happy with the opacity. I tried a 65/90/65, 70/90/70, and 80 duro. Squeegee Angles of 5, 7, and 10. Speed down to 7. Double stroking. But seem to get the same result regardless. As of now I am only seeing this as a good underbase white. I'm finding I need to do a P-F-P-F-P to get what I consider a good white.
I'm currently using IC Legacy white. 70/90/70, one stroke, speed of 10 and get a real nice white P-F-P. But the Wilflex has much better properties (the IC does climb and needs a little more carding). For those of you using the Wilfelx Lava and are getting good results, any advice on what to do differently? I would really love to be able to make this our new white.
From what we know it's not another Wilflex ink, I did a split fountain with Brett and Printed Threads with Quick White and it's about 95% opaque but we were running he squeegee around 5 speed. Danny says he compensates by running the squeegee almost full speed if not at 10 to get the fluid momentum of the LAVA really going. SingleInk Also is getting very good results with one pass. I am asking Danny on his angles.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Just heard from Danny he runs a little lower angle at 12-15 with a fast speed
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I ordered in a gallon to sample it. Printing on a Roq automatic with 150/48 S mesh
It feel it has the best properties/characteristics of and white I have used. Floods nicely, clears the screen easily (one stroke at a print speed of 10), doesn't climb the squeegee, and priced right.
But I'm not happy with the opacity. I tried a 65/90/65, 70/90/70, and 80 duro. Squeegee Angles of 5, 7, and 10. Speed down to 7. Double stroking. But seem to get the same result regardless. As of now I am only seeing this as a good underbase white. I'm finding I need to do a P-F-P-F-P to get what I consider a good white.
I'm currently using IC Legacy white. 70/90/70, one stroke, speed of 10 and get a real nice white P-F-P. But the Wilflex has much better properties (the IC does climb and needs a little more carding). For those of you using the Wilfelx Lava and are getting good results, any advice on what to do differently? I would really love to be able to make this our new white.
From what we know it's not another Wilflex ink, I did a split fountain with Brett and Printed Threads with Quick White and it's about 95% opaque but we were running he squeegee around 5 speed. Danny says he compensates by running the squeegee almost full speed if not at 10 to get the fluid momentum of the LAVA really going. SingleInk Also is getting very good results with one pass. I am asking Danny on his angles.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just heard from Danny he runs a little lower angle at 12-15 with a fast speed
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Just heard from Danny he runs a little lower angle at 12-15 with a fast speed
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks Ryan!
I'm going to try that. I think my parameters are pretty close to Danny's (or at least from some of his posts I read) Roq press, 150S mesh, OC, speed, etc.
I'm going to try the lower angle and see if that makes a difference for me and will report back here.
Ideally I run everything at 10 with a single stroke, but I'll also try a print speed of 5, it is slower than I'd rather print but in reality probably won't make much of a difference. Any idea what squeegee duro and angle Brett is using?
-
Just heard from Danny he runs a little lower angle at 12-15 with a fast speed
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What's up Ryan! Do we know what duro squeegees Danny runs this with to get that opacity? Ginny and Mark are supposed to pop by some time tomorrow, maaaaybe they will have a sample for us to try. ;D
-
I ordered in a gallon to sample it. Printing on a Roq automatic with 150/48 S mesh
It feel it has the best properties/characteristics of and white I have used. Floods nicely, clears the screen easily (one stroke at a print speed of 10), doesn't climb the squeegee, and priced right.
But I'm not happy with the opacity. I tried a 65/90/65, 70/90/70, and 80 duro. Squeegee Angles of 5, 7, and 10. Speed down to 7. Double stroking. But seem to get the same result regardless. As of now I am only seeing this as a good underbase white. I'm finding I need to do a P-F-P-F-P to get what I consider a good white.
I'm currently using IC Legacy white. 70/90/70, one stroke, speed of 10 and get a real nice white P-F-P. But the Wilflex has much better properties (the IC does climb and needs a little more carding). For those of you using the Wilfelx Lava and are getting good results, any advice on what to do differently? I would really love to be able to make this our new white.
Iv'e been trying different whites and still can't find one to beat legacy in opacity, underbasing with a 225 s mesh, holding 8 colors on top with no lift off, unless one is a very large white open spot, but even that it holds very nice, fiber matt down, flashing, and over all feel. Not to mention, having used it for a while now, old shirts in personal use, seeing how it holds up very very nice over a few years time--- also important. I'd give the lava a test but I've been warned to not expect the same opacity, which rules it out right away, but I'd still have to try for myself in our system to see. It's hard to beat legacy.
Did you try the Epic Bright Tiger White? Apparently that ink is very opaque and very bright white. Wondering how it holds up compared to the Quick White.
-
Just heard from Danny he runs a little lower angle at 12-15 with a fast speed
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks Ryan!
I'm going to try that. I think my parameters are pretty close to Danny's (or at least from some of his posts I read) Roq press, 150S mesh, OC, speed, etc.
I'm going to try the lower angle and see if that makes a difference for me and will report back here.
Ideally I run everything at 10 with a single stroke, but I'll also try a print speed of 5, it is slower than I'd rather print but in reality probably won't make much of a difference. Any idea what squeegee duro and angle Brett is using?
He also said, The lava needs a lot less squeegee pressure and a harder flood fill to work properly. 30-35 psi at Brett's we used a triple and about a 7 angle . The way Danny runs completely makes sense to me getting the ink flowing faster and the fluid momentum transferring through the screen mesh quicker allows for more opacity at higher speeds
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Just heard from Danny he runs a little lower angle at 12-15 with a fast speed
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What's up Ryan! Do we know what duro squeegees Danny runs this with to get that opacity? Ginny and Mark are supposed to pop by some time tomorrow, maaaaybe they will have a sample for us to try. ;D
What up Mostly 70 but some triple
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Quick insta I took as I walking through the shop this morning..... Single stroke max speed, super opaque print. Probably too much squeegee pressure according to some but the print looks perfect and it will run 1000 pcs an hr all day.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BM4UEd6AokZ/?taken-by=denverprinthouse (https://www.instagram.com/p/BM4UEd6AokZ/?taken-by=denverprinthouse)
-
Quick insta I took as I walking through the shop this morning..... Single stroke max speed, super opaque print. Probably too much squeegee pressure according to some but the print looks perfect and it will run 1000 pcs an hr all day.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BM4UEd6AokZ/?taken-by=denverprinthouse (https://www.instagram.com/p/BM4UEd6AokZ/?taken-by=denverprinthouse)
Super hard flood on that, which I like. No issues with damage to mesh?
-
Also with hard flood like that we have found screen touches shirt and ghosting slightly on second flood...
Tension on Newmans 25-30 here and still happens with 1/8th off contact sometimes.
Not any of this on the second flood with your s-mesh?
-
Also with hard flood like that we have found screen touches shirt and ghosting slightly on second flood...
Tension on Newmans 25-30 here and still happens with 1/8th off contact sometimes.
Not any of this on the second flood with your s-mesh?
He's doing 1 pass per shirt.
If you are in fact doing 2 then you would have to do it so the table is down on the flood or on a press where the screen raises back up for sequential strokes.
If it's still an issue after that then perhaps you don't have much of a gasket on the garment side of the screen with the emulsion.
-
Also with hard flood like that we have found screen touches shirt and ghosting slightly on second flood...
Tension on Newmans 25-30 here and still happens with 1/8th off contact sometimes.
Not any of this on the second flood with your s-mesh?
I have seen that with the presses that have stationary heads as well - like ours. Not all the time, but enough that I watch ink rheology and flood pressure to avoid it.
Getting in some today and I am looking forward to trying it out!
Fyi - pleeeeenty of gasket with our screens. Its a screen deflection issue due to the flood stroke.
-
Quick insta I took as I walking through the shop this morning..... Single stroke max speed, super opaque print. Probably too much squeegee pressure according to some but the print looks perfect and it will run 1000 pcs an hr all day.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BM4UEd6AokZ/?taken-by=denverprinthouse (https://www.instagram.com/p/BM4UEd6AokZ/?taken-by=denverprinthouse)
I'm noticing you have your flood speed at 3. I have mine at 10 and I'm definitely not flooding as deep. I popped a screen a couple weeks ago and may have backed off the flood depth too much. That white looks real good on the video. 150/48 S mesh?
I'd like to try to mimic your settings. What is the OC, pressure, squeegeeflood depth at on that?
-
Yeah when we run spot color stuff we use a hard flood. Typically we run a speed of 3 on the flood until we are close to 100 shirts in on larger orders. Then the flood speed can go up to around 8 but on those images we take advantage of the flood to fill the stencil. Sometimes we run a squeegee on the flood area side which is a rad aspect with roq. Having a solid eom giving you that shirt side gasket allows this and proper off contact.. When we print sim process through very high mesh bases we cannot print near this fast. I treat our sim process and halftone work like an entire different animal though. You will not see us flooding like this when we are doing almost anything other then spot work like I posted. 150/48 saati mesh on that print run.
-
I've been tempted to throw a squeegee in on the flood since I saw the Roq hybrid video, then I noticed you also did it on a couple of you videos. I know Joe Clarke suggested this a while back with his squeegees too.
-
I just ordered a gallon to test out. I am always looking for a better white ink.
-
Just heard from Danny he runs a little lower angle at 12-15 with a fast speed
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks Ryan!
I'm going to try that. I think my parameters are pretty close to Danny's (or at least from some of his posts I read) Roq press, 150S mesh, OC, speed, etc.
I'm going to try the lower angle and see if that makes a difference for me and will report back here.
Ideally I run everything at 10 with a single stroke, but I'll also try a print speed of 5, it is slower than I'd rather print but in reality probably won't make much of a difference. Any idea what squeegee duro and angle Brett is using?
He also said, The lava needs a lot less squeegee pressure and a harder flood fill to work properly. 30-35 psi at Brett's we used a triple and about a 7 angle . The way Danny runs completely makes sense to me getting the ink flowing faster and the fluid momentum transferring through the screen mesh quicker allows for more opacity at higher speeds
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Seems to me there was some guy at SGIA that did a presentation on this.....he might have even had a slide show to show how this works....wonder who that was??? ;)
Is there a difference between the newer Roq's and my older generation in regards to the scissor cylinder and air lines? The new ones have to be generating a greater CFM as there is absolutely, positively now way we can run 30-35 psi with any ink. For our machine 45 is almost unachievable and most times 50 is the lowest we can go. I've felt that it's not a true reading.
-
I don't think psi on the print head is a good metric to compare between shops. Off contact, angle of the blade, location of choppers, method of using chopper depth settings v. pressure as depth, etc. all changes what that number means.
For instance, I watched us printing at about 30psi the other day and it was deflecting the arms of the press up significantly. Seems like a too low a pressure to do that but we couldn't clear a screen with less and the print head was printing "perfectly" at high speed with a great shear. So our shop's 30psi might be something like 50psi relative to another's.
-
Just heard from Danny he runs a little lower angle at 12-15 with a fast speed
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks Ryan!
I'm going to try that. I think my parameters are pretty close to Danny's (or at least from some of his posts I read) Roq press, 150S mesh, OC, speed, etc.
I'm going to try the lower angle and see if that makes a difference for me and will report back here.
Ideally I run everything at 10 with a single stroke, but I'll also try a print speed of 5, it is slower than I'd rather print but in reality probably won't make much of a difference. Any idea what squeegee duro and angle Brett is using?
He also said, The lava needs a lot less squeegee pressure and a harder flood fill to work properly. 30-35 psi at Brett's we used a triple and about a 7 angle . The way Danny runs completely makes sense to me getting the ink flowing faster and the fluid momentum transferring through the screen mesh quicker allows for more opacity at higher speeds
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Seems to me there was some guy at SGIA that did a presentation on this.....he might have even had a slide show to show how this works....wonder who that was??? ;)
Is there a difference between the newer Roq's and my older generation in regards to the scissor cylinder and air lines? The new ones have to be generating a greater CFM as there is absolutely, positively now way we can run 30-35 psi with any ink. For our machine 45 is almost unachievable and most times 50 is the lowest we can go. I've felt that it's not a true reading.
Between Joe Clarke and Richard Greeves I have been convinced to always print at 10!
Good question on the PSI. Mine is also an older generation one and when I drop the pressure to 35-40 it's just not happening. 50-60 seems to be where I need to be. I've been trying to figure out why others are printing with much lower pressure.
Off topic, how are you combating pressure marks from the squeegee on the shirt?
-
Just heard from Danny he runs a little lower angle at 12-15 with a fast speed
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks Ryan!
I'm going to try that. I think my parameters are pretty close to Danny's (or at least from some of his posts I read) Roq press, 150S mesh, OC, speed, etc.
I'm going to try the lower angle and see if that makes a difference for me and will report back here.
Ideally I run everything at 10 with a single stroke, but I'll also try a print speed of 5, it is slower than I'd rather print but in reality probably won't make much of a difference. Any idea what squeegee duro and angle Brett is using?
He also said, The lava needs a lot less squeegee pressure and a harder flood fill to work properly. 30-35 psi at Brett's we used a triple and about a 7 angle . The way Danny runs completely makes sense to me getting the ink flowing faster and the fluid momentum transferring through the screen mesh quicker allows for more opacity at higher speeds
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Seems to me there was some guy at SGIA that did a presentation on this.....he might have even had a slide show to show how this works....wonder who that was??? ;)
Is there a difference between the newer Roq's and my older generation in regards to the scissor cylinder and air lines? The new ones have to be generating a greater CFM as there is absolutely, positively now way we can run 30-35 psi with any ink. For our machine 45 is almost unachievable and most times 50 is the lowest we can go. I've felt that it's not a true reading.
Between Joe Clarke and Richard Greeves I have been convinced to always print at 10!
Good question on the PSI. Mine is also an older generation one and when I drop the pressure to 35-40 it's just not happening. 50-60 seems to be where I need to be. I've been trying to figure out why others are printing with much lower pressure.
Off topic, how are you combating pressure marks from the squeegee on the shirt?
I really only notice it on certain shirts and even then, they come out of the dryer and I don't really notice them. Once it goes through a wash it is fine anyways.
-
Normal tees aren't that bad and do seem to come out in the dryer. But it seems like tri-blends they like to stick around on. I'm guessing this is a byproduct of not having rubber coated pallets.
-
Quick insta I took as I walking through the shop this morning..... Single stroke max speed, super opaque print. Probably too much squeegee pressure according to some but the print looks perfect and it will run 1000 pcs an hr all day.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BM4UEd6AokZ/?taken-by=denverprinthouse (https://www.instagram.com/p/BM4UEd6AokZ/?taken-by=denverprinthouse)
Are all of your flood bars at 15 degrees or just the UB?
-
Update:
(Roq You press) I slowed my flood down to 3, increased our squeegee angle to 13, and lowered the flood bar for a harder flood as suggested by Danny. The results were much much better. I feel the IC is still offering better opacity, but only slightly. Like maybe 5% more.
We did 25 shirts, but sent it around twice. So 50 prints, and didn't have to card the ink at all. And it looked like it could print a lot more before we needed to. For us that is big and worth a 3-5% drop in opacity. With the IC Legacy we were printing and flooding both at 10, single stroke, and getting beautiful opacity. However it seemed we had to card between every 10-20 prints. Something I wasn't a fan of. It slows us down and gets ink on my fingers (small shop so we are either 1 or 2 people on the press).
We still have some adjustments I feel we can make here and I am going to play around with my squeegee angle and pressure a little. I'd also like to see if we can work the flood speed back up. We brought it up to 5 and it didn't seem to effect anything. All in all I'm feeling really good about it and there is a very good chance this will replace the IC in our shop. But still need to see it perform in more than one small print run and would also like to make sure the bleed resistance is up to par.
Thanks for the tips!
-
Just got this ink on my Workhorse, and all I can say is this is the best white I have ever used. Ryonet hasnt been my go to for many years due to some issues, but they won me back with this white ink. It really is impressive.
-
Just got this ink on my Workhorse, and all I can say is this is the best white I have ever used. Ryonet hasnt been my go to for many years due to some issues, but they won me back with this white ink. It really is impressive.
Yes the Lave LB is great and only outdone by the Epic Bright Tiger White.
-
Lava LB is awesome so far. One of my favorite whites I've used. Messed around with Ryocharge and the LB white today and got pretty awesome results.
-
So did you print strait out of the gallon, what mesh count. Please tell me more details on your experience. What other whites have you used or using before Lava.
-
So did you print strait out of the gallon, what mesh count. Please tell me more details on your experience. What other whites have you used or using before Lava.
The photo I posted was a plasticharge mix , but 9 times out of 10 I use it straight out of the bucket. Most common mesh I use is 150-S and 135-S but I've printed it through a 180-S just fine.
Prior to this white I was using the cotton and poly version of the Synergy White. I also use One Stroke Versamax, Triangle Phoenix, IC Legacy, Rutland Street Fighter, QCM Glacier.
Compared to those whites, I feel like the Lava mattes fibers better and overall is easy to print with. I print manually and our shop is pretty cold this time of the year, so even though all of our inks get pretty stiff, the Lava seems to loosen up fairly easy once I get a few prints going. Clears the screens very easily, granted, everything clears easily on a 135-S.
-
I have gotten samples of S- mesh and popped them when trying for more newtons. What is it about S-mesh that you like and what is a general newton number you get for printing. What about White ink? Just curious. Thanks for your feedback.
-
Don't stretch them too high. I use static frames. Most of which are in the 18-22 newton range. The thread diameter is lower then traditional mesh so there is more open area and it results in an easier transfer of the ink to the shirt. Lava LB white is going to be my standard for a while now. I just ordered more of it.
-
I have gotten samples of S- mesh and popped them when trying for more newtons. What is it about S-mesh that you like and what is a general newton number you get for printing. What about White ink? Just curious. Thanks for your feedback.
Here is a link to the S-mesh guide from Murakami, gives you all the recommended tension levels
http://www.murakamiscreen.com/documents/MeshGuidefromCatalogweb.pdf (http://www.murakamiscreen.com/documents/MeshGuidefromCatalogweb.pdf)