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screen printing => Ink and Chemicals => Topic started by: Mark @ Hurricane Printing on November 25, 2013, 12:38:12 PM
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Just landed a contract job..70 camouflage shirts ..one color front and back..."hunter orange" ink is the color of ink. I have never printed on camo before or have "hunter orange" ink.
Five questions:
1) Would this require an underbase?
2) The camouflage shirts are 100% but is there anything special i need to know about printing on a camouflage shirt?
3) Who sells the best "hunter orange" ink?
4) What mesh count is good for hunter orange ink? 110?...156?...
5) Would you consider hunter orange a "specialty ink" like a metallic ink or a puff ink? The reason I ask is I charge 35 cents per "specialty ink"...and right now all I consider specialty ink is metallic or puff....I'm thinking hunter orange is not in the specialty ink category.
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"Hunter" orange may mean neon or safety
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And it's THIN as far as opacity goes.
We print a few of these from time to time on the Russle's camo stuff. UB and sometimes still needs to PFP the orange on top of that... usually my guy gets tired of that and figures out the right flood/stroke to get it done in one. ;)
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And camo's will bleed like you stabbed them over and over.
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I would suggest using Wilflex Performance Underbase Grey or something with some serious bleed resistance unless you want that camo pattern showing up in your print. And test to make sure before you start running shirts through the dryer as all camo shirts (unlike people) are not created equal.
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Is there a wilflex maxopake neon/safety/hunter orange? That I could P/F/P?
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I just printed 300 grey/white/black camos with orange last week. I underbased the orange with Wilflex Epic Performance white. QCM orange over the top. No bleeding at all and it was a pretty soft print. Not too bulletproof surprisingly. I was sort of shocked it worked.
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I just printed 300 grey/white/black camos with orange last week. I underbased the orange with Wilflex Epic Performance white. QCM orange over the top. No bleeding at all and it was a pretty soft print. Not too bulletproof surprisingly. I was sort of shocked it worked.
I have the wilflex epic performance white....but these camos are the traditional hunter green-ish camo design/colors.
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You will absolutely want to use an underbase grey to block migration. Since I would take "hunter orange" to mean a blaze orange, like Tony said, you may want to add a layer of white before the orange also. UB Grey/F/White/F/Flo Orange.
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Is there a wilflex maxopake neon/safety/hunter orange? That I could P/F/P?
No, there is not.
Underbase with the best dye blocking ink you have and I would also recommend a dye-blocking, low cure temp orange for the top. You are going to have to sync up with your client's perception of 'hunter orange' before running.
In here this runs:
WFX Performance mix of UB Grey and White
FLASH
WFX Performance PMS mix of whatever goes on top.
Some jobs will need a PFP or second hit of the Grey/White combo.
Cure under 310˚F and keep your fingers crossed.
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Technically speaking most camo patterns are printed rather than dyed and use cheab WB ink that is not bleed resistant.
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You will absolutely want to use an underbase grey to block migration. Since I would take "hunter orange" to mean a blaze orange, like Tony said, you may want to add a layer of white before the orange also. UB Grey/F/White/F/Flo Orange.
wow..a grey underbase and a white underbase?!?!....wow.....the print will be bullet proof!!!
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the performance grey underbase is not a regular grey ink but a specialty underbase that is used for its superior bleed resistance...we use it for the notorious bad bleeders and have used it straight or mixed with our standard lo-bleed white depending on the garments it is being printed on. In the case of camo I would second Zoo but probably use the grey underbase straight.
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I only recommend a mix of Performance UB Gray and Perf white b/c the grey is a little dark and apparently made of half cured caulking. Cutting in the White and 1-2% viscosity buster as needed makes it far more printable. The Perf white has a lot of dye blocking muscle, I really only put the UB Gray in there when extra insurance is desired.
The print won't necessarily be bulletproof, that is up to you and you mesh selection and printing technique but yes, it will be on the thicker side as will most prints going down onto gnarly bleeder fabrics like this. And it won't be anywhere near as thick and nasty as trying to PFPFPFPFPFPFPFPF a low bleed orange onto it which will eventually bleed anyhow.
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You will absolutely want to use an underbase grey to block migration. Since I would take "hunter orange" to mean a blaze orange, like Tony said, you may want to add a layer of white before the orange also. UB Grey/F/White/F/Flo Orange.
Absolutely what ^ said!
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Also Code V are the worse. The dyna grey won't clear the screen and stick to the medium brown color in the shirt. Without the gray blocking ink you will see the pattern through the ink. Low bleed ink does nothing for hiding the camo pattern.
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Another solution would be Wilflex Russell Grey on a 196 or higher FLASH White on a 156 or 196 FLASH Orange on a 196.
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Just did some UA camo with Dyno grey backer and 2 hits of yellow pantone 116 on top turned out really well, with the dyno grey I add a little curable reducer it helps a lot. No bleed showed up.
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A quick follow up....im going to print these this week...and I will do either the two underbases (grey/flash/white/flash/florescent orange)
If I do that, should I made the grey underbase a 2 point choke...and the white a 1 point choke?...I should make the grey underbase smaller than the white one correct?
Of course if i decide to go with ONE underbase and just mix the grey and white together I will simply make a 1 point choke underbase.
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...we recently did a load of these p/f/p using Union Maxopake neon orange...and it worked REALLY well. No bleeding to speak of really. I was surprised at how opaque it really was. I think we used either a 110 or 125, but the hand wasn't really any worse than the multiple underbases you are describing. Might want to chack a gallon out!
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...we recently did a load of these p/f/p using Union Maxopake neon orange...and it worked REALLY well. No bleeding to speak of really. I was surprised at how opaque it really was. I think we used either a 110 or 125, but the hand wasn't really any worse than the multiple underbases you are describing. Might want to chack a gallon out!
I already bought the grey underbase ink and the florecent orange...so im committed to the underbasing.
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This wasn't the order from J. Q. Moose, was it?
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...we recently did a load of these p/f/p using Union Maxopake neon orange...and it worked REALLY well. No bleeding to speak of really. I was surprised at how opaque it really was. I think we used either a 110 or 125, but the hand wasn't really any worse than the multiple underbases you are describing. Might want to chack a gallon out!
I'm surprised that worked well. Way back in the day I printed some maxopaque golden yellow on a black 50/50 and yes...we ate that job since the ink turned a terrible pooh yellowish green. I ran out of the underbase grey a while back and have been using the rutland super poly for camo and it's working fine. I think the newer poly white ink work for camos when a few years ago the UB grey was by far the best option and camos would bleed through the best poly whites. Not so much any more. I want to get a gallon of the UB grey though and mix me up a special no bleed ink that's easy to print but works great to block even the worst bleeders like camo.