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screen printing => Equipment => Topic started by: Dochertyscott on January 14, 2014, 05:53:40 AM
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Hello all,
I have been in business for close to 4 years now, and screen printing for 10 or so.
I started on my own and now there are 4 of us working.
Business seems to be growing rapidly and I have a great reputation around town for quality and service.
I am now at a point where if I get anymore work I will be letting down my clients as I can no longer keep up. As well as this I want to grow the business further which is impossible at the mo.
I tend to have to work every weekend and a lot of overtime.
I feel like I am now established enough and confident enough to take the next step into an automatic press.
I'm going to allow myself a budget of $50,000 NZ including flashs install and compressor which is why I think used is the way to go. (Buying new would mean big debt which I don't like the idea of)
There are a couple that are here in New Zealand for sale.
One being a 2007 TAS Compact CX9 and another a Compact CX8 year unknown,
A really old 91 or so 8/10 gauntlet. And a late model Diamondback XL, And the last a TAS ROC 12/14
I have previously ran a Tas hawk 10/12 at a past workplace and loved it but have never worked on anything different to compare it with.
The Manual press's that I have are Workhorse, American M&M and a recently purchased M&R sidewinder.
The sidewinder obviously being the favourite. (What a dream)
Can anyone give me a comparison between M&R diamondback XL and the Tas compact Cx?
Has anyone used a TAS ROC?
As well as opinions on buying second hand and perhaps even insights from those who have imported machinery from the states...? Eg digit smith. Or SP resource?
Thanks in advance,
Scott
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I think it is safe to say you will have much more support with the Diamondback vs. the TAS, especially when buying used. You say importing from the states, where are you located?
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He's in New Zealand, which adds a little weight to a Tas purchase, though M&R's reputation is international.
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I would get in touch with a few local techs and pick their brains. Also, they might know of some good deals out there.
support will be huge for you...i would see what the techs around you can fix, and how easy it is to get parts there.
That being said, the late 90's gauntlets are great little machines. I wouldn't get the early 90's. There are some features you want that you cannot live without once you have them...a big one is air locks on the screens. Squeegee and flood air locks aren't that big of a deal, but the screen one are.
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I've never seen a TAS press, there seems to be less of those around the states, but they look very simple/solid and have a very good rep. I might pick that ROC over the others. You'll need all those heads much sooner than you think.
We run a 90s Gauntlet and they are brick sh!thouses which will last forever provided the install and PM was done correctly. You can replace literally anything but the main shaft assy that goes out on those presses. Downside to some of the 90s Gauntlets are platen and print arm deflection, choppers that don't pull up after the stroke, no stroke adjustment and, depending on what and how you print, the air driven heads which for us are limiting. There's nothing wrong with air heads but they will dictate how you print jobs and you may not care for that whereas I feel like AC heads will allow you to print a job the way you want it done. Some of the later model Gauntlets took care of the above issues and even have AC heads, I would look for a Gauntlet II or an RS if there are any around first.
All that you listed are good presses, check out all of them and see them print if possible. If I was in your shoes I would go with the press that had the most parts/service available (printing slower or having longer setups on a simpler press beats a fancier press being down for too long too often) and then compare setup times.
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Can anyone give me a comparison between M&R diamondback XL and the Tas compact Cx?
For the Tas CX, I think they are all electric print heads.
http://www.tasinternational.com.au/screen_printing_machine.asp?MachineID={0000001D-0000-0000-0000-000000000000} (http://www.tasinternational.com.au/screen_printing_machine.asp?MachineID={0000001D-0000-0000-0000-000000000000})
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After much consideration and advice I have chosen to buy New.
I have decided to go for a Tas compact 8/10 compact.
Dealing with the sales manager has been an absolute dream
Look forward to posting photos and reviewing machine
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TAS are solid machines. Not the most feature-filled, but they are relatively fast, simple to maintain and hold tight registration. (what more do you need?)
Registering from the side clamp takes some getting used to though...
:o
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Was a little surprised to not see them represented at ISS Long Beach this year.
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Was a little surprised to not see them represented at ISS Long Beach this year.
I thought the same thing...
Do you mind if I ask, was your decision heavily based on your location and the close proximity to TAS?
I am looking forward to see pics and your reviews!
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You will be pleased with TAS I spoke with one shop owner at ISS that is running them now with 1 million + impressions and no major issues. Keep us posted.
Chris
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My only problem with Tas is no flood angle adjustment you have to purchase angled flood bars
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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My only problem with Tas is no flood angle adjustment you have to purchase angled flood bars
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That is "different" but aside from maybe trying to squeeze a extra half inch of length for a print on our first press, we never adjust our flood angle anyway...
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I have owned 3 Tas machines over 15 years and only need tech help 2 times and 1 fix was a graingers plug and play part. These units are amazingly simple and strong , the only reason I went MHM is that Tas is way behind in features specifically fpu and frame loading like mhm pin system. Although they do not have much presence here in the states they are very popular in other countries. They have what is referred to as a masters frame for registration which I found to be extremely easy and precise.
Google luck with the purchase
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TAS is very solid machine. US rep is an awesome person. The main drawback is that it sets up as slowly as an M&R.
As for Gauntlets, while M&R's are built better than some presses, saying it is built like "a brick shithouse" seems a bit exaggerated. They have all mechanical registration and in a way you can say that they shake themselves to bits and definitely things wear out. To do really good work you have to level them constantly.
We had an MHM that was the first SP3000 in the United States. Until we sold it, it ran for 20 years every day and we never had to level the platens. They set up faster than any press because the platens are always level, parallel and flat, the screens are always level. The screens are what I call locked and super locked, not unlocked and lock. This means that while registering you do not screw up what you just registered by locking the screens (which is what happens on just about any press.) Not only are the platens level, but we can change our whole 16/18 press from adult to youth platens in under 2 minutes (not each arm, the whole press.) The MHM doesn't wear out as fast because the basic design has it register electronically and the registration blocks are more like a guarantee than what pushes it into place, unlike almost every other type of press.
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TAS is very solid machine. US rep is an awesome person. The main drawback is that it sets up as slowly as an M&R.
As for Gauntlets, while M&R's are built better than some presses, saying it is built like "a brick shithouse" seems a bit exaggerated. They have all mechanical registration and in a way you can say that they shake themselves to bits and definitely things wear out. To do really good work you have to level them constantly.
We had an MHM that was the first SP3000 in the United States. Until we sold it, it ran for 20 years every day and we never had to level the platens. They set up faster than any press because the platens are always level, parallel and flat, the screens are always level. The screens are what I call locked and super locked, not unlocked and lock. This means that while registering you do not screw up what you just registered by locking the screens (which is what happens on just about any press.) Not only are the platens level, but we can change our whole 16/18 press from adult to youth platens in under 2 minutes (not each arm, the whole press.) The MHM doesn't wear out as fast because the basic design has it register electronically and the registration blocks are more like a guarantee than what pushes it into place, unlike almost every other type of press.
Rick Roth
Mirror Image Inc
Pawtucket RI
check out new screen printer blog I'm doing with Tom Davenport of Motion Textile - [url=http://www.theinkkitchen.com]www.theinkkitchen.com[/url] ([url]http://www.theinkkitchen.com[/url]) twitter@TheInkKitchen
I guess everyone is entitled to their opinion so I will state mine. Yes our presses are overbuilt and the standard of the industry. The majority of printers use M&R for some very good reasons. They last forever ,yield the highest output, and set up very fast. They are even built strong enough to run solid pallets at very high speeds with ease! They are so good we are the ONLY manufacturer that will offer a 100% money back guarantee in writing. But that is just my opinion. Might just be 85% of the markets opinion as well.
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Was a little surprised to not see them (TAS) represented at ISS Long Beach this year.
The reason why TAS didn't exhibit at this years Long Beach ISS might have been impacted by some information that I heard this week that the owners of TAS America the California based distributor for TAS equipment, are establishing a distribution and service relationship for the Anatol equipment line. I have a high degree of confidence that this information is accurate and we'll have to wait and see how these developments will impact distribution, service and support for TAS equipment in the US Market
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Was a little surprised to not see them (TAS) represented at ISS Long Beach this year.
The reason why TAS didn't exhibit at this years Long Beach ISS might have been impacted by some information that I heard this week that the owners of TAS America the California based distributor for TAS equipment, are establishing a distribution and service relationship for the Anatol equipment line. I have a high degree of confidence that this information is accurate and we'll have to wait and see how these developments will impact distribution, service and support for TAS equipment in the US Market
Sounds like TAS America had a death wish...
My apologies to the OP for getting your thread so de railed. Originally you had mentioned you were thinking of a used auto, it kinda sounds like you have changed that, yes? Sorry if it seems like I am "prying" into your business, I am intrigued by the buying options and process in outside the states. I had the wonderful opportunity to meet some great people from Australia(I know you are in New Zealand) at ISS Long Beach. One couple ended up buying a auto, and both couples were great to talk to. Different than how we do it in the states, and I love that!
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No worries at all in terms of the thread going off topic.
I love reading through these forums. Especially when on my post.
I'd much rather have off topic replies than refresh the browser to see none.
So I looked at what was available as second hand units through the supply reps here in New Zealand and also through the grapevine.
I missed out on a used diamondback but in my opinion was overpriced anyhow for what they are especially when use.
The Tas 9e which was the original compact machine I was stared off by a previous boss and also the Tas tech. I was told these are not the machines that Tas are proud of. So much so that I did hear that one of workers actually left the company when these were brought out as a cheaper model to compete with the diamondback.
The Tas ROC was 15 years old. Although the control panels had been upgradede and the machine was apparently in great order, the print heads were all pneumatic. As well as this the size of the machine would of had me pushing it for space. It was a 12 colour but we just don't get the demand for that amount of colours over here... I've done one 6 colour job in the 4 years in business. People are usually scared off by the setup charges. Using spot, or process, a full colour job can be done nicely as a 7 colour max in my opinion.
I talked to the distributor of the Tas machines here in nz looking for second hand in my price range and he sent me through the details for a new option being an anatol Titan 5 colour.
It looked rubbishy.
At this stage the TAS ROC was my best option for the budget.
I called Tas in Australia to ask for an honest opinion on the machine...and to poke for a demo model or direct sale... As you do.
Colin was just the man I had been looking for. He spared no time in talking me through the options. Gave honest advice. Asked me my ideal solution. Worked as close as possible to my budget, And weeks later after talking almost daily, sold me a brand new Tas CX 8/10 with full AC heads, and 2 optional flashes a set of sleeve boards chucked in for good measure. He assured me that these machines are very bit as good as the Tas machines they are known for. Uses the same components as the hawks and 2000x models and will literally last a lifetime. So much so that he would like to have the name of the machine changed to escape the compact predecessor reputation. (Which isn't that bad, just comparatively not great with the rest of Tas machines)
The team at Tas are looking after everything from shipping to customs clearance and inboard freight to my door with the tech installing on arrival.
So Tas being my final decision was based on firstly the fact that I have ran a couple at previous workshops and found them a dream.
The fact that replacement parts are very easily sourced.
Further add ons can be bought from across the ditch (Australia) with less freight cost.
Full AC heads.
The Tas reputation.
And lastly the way I was treated by the team at Tas. I can't sing Colin's praises enough.
The cost of buying used was going to be not much less that buying new. With all the dramas that could have gone with the used machine. My auto should be here in less than 2 months.
As I asked The team at Tas are going to send me photos and updates of the build of my new machine as it happens. All made in Australia.
If you guys are interested ill post the photos of the build up here to give you an insight as it happens.
One very excited first time auto buyer. ;D
http://www.tasinternational.com.au/screen_printing_machine.asp?MachineID={0000001F-0000-0000-0000-000000000000} (http://www.tasinternational.com.au/screen_printing_machine.asp?MachineID={0000001F-0000-0000-0000-000000000000})
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Sounds like a super good outcome for you! You will love the AC heads! I for sure want you to post the pics!!
Congratulations!
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Thanks, yeah a super outcome im sure.
The next thing i need to think about is a compressor.
The machine requirements are 7.5cfm @100 psi (which i was told is a negligible amount of air and not to be oversold)
Should i go with a used rotary screw? or a new piston.
I want it to be quite enough and not be struggling.
Any advice on brands to look at, tank size and so on?
I was asked if the air supply would be constant from someone i talked to... as in would it be running at full requirements all of the time... would it?
I figure it would be to turn the carousel but then be on a break for between 5-10 secs when printing??
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Typically the air requirements are for running the press full speed and all heads, which rarely happens. 7.5cfm is practicality nothing, but don't skimp or get a cheep compressor. If the compressor goes down you are not going to be printing.
Screw type will be quieter, but the smallest one will almost be overkill for what you need....
I can recommend a great company I have had very good luck with, but it is in the states here so that may not help you much. :(
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Do not buy a piston compressor unless you have to. Buy a screw type compressor and with more capacity and a bigger tank than you need. Consider buying from the start a compressor that would handle a second machine.
The CFM requirements are for running full bore, but also figure at some point you will have air leaks. You should fix them, but you don't want to stop printing because you have them.
You also need to buy a chiller (conditioner) to take the water out of the air.
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Firstly congrates on the purchase. Good choice, because spare parts is less than 3 hours by plane across the Tasman.
If you get a compressor, you better find a good local shop, because when I bought my compressor for my knitting machine I went for a German brand, when it broke down, it was difficult for me to get spare parts.
Congrats again. and yes we want pics.
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As for Gauntlets, while M&R's are built better than some presses, saying it is built like "a brick shithouse" seems a bit exaggerated. They have all mechanical registration and in a way you can say that they shake themselves to bits and definitely things wear out. To do really good work you have to level them constantly.
Agreed all around on that. I'll take a press with an MHM type design any old day over the M&R/Anatol/RPM/Tas/etc. design model. Honestly, the two don't even compare. The latter category tends to need to be overbuilt in the wrong places due to a less than ideal overall design in my humble opinion.
Our Gauntlet is leveled every week, sometimes twice and most other users will report similar schedules. It shakes and rattles. The masonry outhouse reference was to the overall build on these old machines. I think the fact that the main components are overbuilt makes an old Gauntlet more useable after 20+ years as all the other parts that got rattled to death can be swapped out for not too much cost but the main components will still perform. The fact that these parts are readily available makes these old presses viable for a used purchase, the ROI can still be very good despite the setups and leveling and all the other detractors. So I think the phrase is accurate in that sense. We purchased our '92 for a song, dropped it into the shop with minimal disassembly and, for all it's design failures, has performed admirably. New purchase would be a whole different set of considerations. Gotta take it all in context.
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Rick, I like the blog, btw! Looking forward to reading through it later.
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As for Gauntlets, while M&R's are built better than some presses, saying it is built like "a brick shithouse" seems a bit exaggerated. They have all mechanical registration and in a way you can say that they shake themselves to bits and definitely things wear out. To do really good work you have to level them constantly.
Agreed all around on that. I'll take a press with an MHM type design any old day over the M&R/Anatol/RPM/Tas/etc. design model. Honestly, the two don't even compare. The latter category tends to need to be overbuilt in the wrong places due to a less than ideal overall design in my humble opinion.
Our Gauntlet is leveled every week, sometimes twice and most other users will report similar schedules. It shakes and rattles. The masonry outhouse reference was to the overall build on these old machines. I think the fact that the main components are overbuilt makes an old Gauntlet more useable after 20+ years as all the other parts that got rattled to death can be swapped out for not too much cost but the main components will still perform. The fact that these parts are readily available makes these old presses viable for a used purchase, the ROI can still be very good despite the setups and leveling and all the other detractors. So I think the phrase is accurate in that sense. We purchased our '92 for a song, dropped it into the shop with minimal disassembly and, for all it's design failures, has performed admirably. New purchase would be a whole different set of considerations. Gotta take it all in context.
Really? Have u worked on or owned the stated models?
Are mhm the best built automatics?
I have never seen or even heard much about them.
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Are you asking me?
I've printed on M&R/Anatol/American. I don't have wide experience with all the press brands listed, they are grouped together in this discussion as their registration and basic functions are identical. MHM, and other brands such S.roque, have different concepts for reg and basic functions.
Yes, some would argue the MHM style of press design is superior. Other would argue the M&R/Anatol/RPM/Tas/etc. model is best.
All the press brands listed make good to excellent presses, this is a reply to a comment on design. Design is just one facet of a good machine but it's a critical one for sure. Any discussion on the matter will inevitably go back to service and support. Talking purely design, I prefer the MHM concept. Ask me purely about service and support and I'll tell you I wish that M&R made everything I wanted. Ask 10 other printers those two questions and you'll get 20-30 different answers.
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Ask me purely about service and support and I'll tell you I wish that M&R made everything I wanted.
Why not tell M&R?
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Ask me purely about service and support and I'll tell you I wish that M&R made everything I wanted.
Why not tell M&R?
I have. That's why our 20x24 Chili flash has an intensity control, I didn't want to buy another brand but needed the control that wasn't an option then. Rich set it in motion and we've been happily quartz flashing tri-blends ever since, if there is such a thing as happily flashing that fabric.
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happily quartz flashing tri-blends ever since, if there is such a thing as happily flashing that fabric.
WHAAAAATTTT??!?
:o
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in regards to this compressor I still need to get...
There is a dental one for sale here in nz which are nice and quite but I'm struggling with the maths.
Would this one run ok?
http://www.somamedikal.com.tr/en/equipment/compressors/metasys/metasys-scirocco.htm (http://www.somamedikal.com.tr/en/equipment/compressors/metasys/metasys-scirocco.htm)
The used one has a air dryer and filter action unit.
Machine requirements are 7.5 cfm @ 100 psi (3.5 l/sec)
Here is the actual compressor for sale link
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=693266434 (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=693266434)
Can anyone with the brains to do the calcs correctly help me out?
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7.5 cfm = 212 l/m
100 psi= 6.8 bar
8 gal=30l
Unit only puts out a little more half the cfm required.
Tank size small for a piston type pump. IMO go at least 60 gal tank.
Best to check with the sales rep or mfg on best set up for your press.
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As the guys at Tas said they have sent me a wee pic to show that the build is underway!
Very exciting!
Untill then late boxes and boxes of tees to pump out manually.
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i don't care what press it is, when they are new and clean they are sexy...fast forward one month when the dust starts to settle on parts and minor scratches start showing up...
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What great input.
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Whats the price of used tas in newzealand?
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There were only a couple available when I was looking.
One being and old 12/14 Roc @ maybe 37k plus gst (15%) but would be a further 7 or 8 for shipping and install.
And another old model compact E for about the same.
The Tas machines seem to not really change too much in price regardless of age over here in nz.
Likewise with M&R tend to not really drop below 35,000 nzd even the really old ones.
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Wow! it's all happening! Cant wait! No wonder my forearms are like Popeye's.
Love getting snap shots from Tas of how my new machine is coming along!
Cheers Colin!
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A few more photos from Colin. Few weeks and she should be all go!
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One more
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Very cool! Looks like it is done for the most part you should be seeing it soon, you must be excited!
I wonder what the advantage of the 2 piece support for the pallet arm is?
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Seems everyone is getting new toys..... Christmas was 3 months ago.
How are the pallets attached to the arms?
Chris
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Hey Scott. Your machine will be leaving here on Friday buddy!
Alex, the 2 piece support for the pallet arms produces virtually zero pallet deflection, resulting in sharp, clear images and perfect dot-to-dot registration.
Chris, for the purpose of simple, rapid pallet change, the pallets are located at the rear by means of a 2 point pin system and attached at the front with a spring clip mechanism. No re-levelling required and each pallet can be changed in literally seconds. You should also notice on the attached pictures that all surfaces are ground perfectly flat, again, allowing for an extremely precise print and uniform ink coverage.
I hope the above is helpful.
Colin Goode
Sales Manager - TAS International
www.tasinternational.com.au (http://www.tasinternational.com.au)
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Colin,
really good to see you here. TAS is making fine machinery and I love seeing you present at this fine place.
Of all machinery in and out in 20 years of running screenprint shop, TAS has really lowest cost of maintenance and greatest reliability. For over 10 mil prints my two TAS machines did, we had technician visiting us once! All other repairs were minor and done by us. Lacks some fancy features, but never ever did we need to say to customer: We didn't manage to print your order due to press breakdown.
Boris
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Hi Boris, it's great to hear from you, it's been a long time!
Thanks for the kind words of endorsement. Yes, we are very proud of our reputation for reliability. Probably the best illustration of this is that in various parts of the world, our servicing people now look after several different brands of machinery in order to keep busy, not just TAS, otherwise their technical staff would be redundant due to a lack of breakdowns! :)
Your point about the 10 million prints got me thinking, I wonder how many prints all of you TAS users out there have clocked up on your machines? With this in mind (and without wanting to hijack this thread...sorry Scott) I will open a new thread and ask this question. I'm sure any responses will be very interesting.
Best of luck with everything Boris and I hope to see you soon.
Colin Goode
Sales Manager - TAS International
www.tasinternational.com.au (http://www.tasinternational.com.au)
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Is that a digital readout on the print head control? If so, what? Print and flood speed maybe, or pressure and print speed? Inquiring mind/minds want to know...at least I do.
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On closer examination I can see that it is flood and print speed. That's cool. What else does it have on the print head, function/feature wise? What are those kip levers on the top for? Sorry for all the questions but I'm sure you guys know that the TAS website (as well as every other automatic press manufacturer) is lacking in detailed info. Even the best websites leave me with more questions than answers.
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Alan, yes you're correct. Digital display of print and flood speeds, along with lift up/down and pneumatic screen lock. Basically everything you need to perform a sample print from the head.
The kip handles are for micro-registration. Very simple to operate and allow precise adjustment of the screen.
Trust this helps.
Colin.
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Nice, that's unique for the micros. Maybe Scott can do some Auto Wars videos when he gets his, I want to learn more.
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Scotty, if you don't mind giving your true, valued opinion of these matters when you receive your machine, that would be terrific, unbiased information.
Cheers,
Colin.
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Yeah no worries, the micro reg from experience with Tas in previous workshops is brill.
On the fly can confidently tweak.
I can put some vids up for sure.
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Last photo of machine before it's sent and setup in my shop.
Business has come along way since setting up... this veiw from my original workspace a couple of years ago. Gotta make you envious. (apartment lounge)
Since then its been crazy hectic.
This machine is going to bring back the main reason i went into business... For Fun!...Lifestyle choice!
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That is one nice clean printing shop. If I had a view like that, I won't be doing any work.
Can't wait for you to post up some videos.
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Great looking shop Scott and a view to match. I sincerely hope there's a kettle in there as well mate, in time for my visit!
Cheers.
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Great looking shop Scott and a view to match. I sincerely hope there's a kettle in there as well mate, in time for my visit!
Cheers.
It's just as well I moved into a bigger workshop about a year or so ago otherwise we'd be pushing it for space, and trying to get an auto upstairs can't be easy...That was where I started out.
Yeah mate there's a kettle in the new workshop and more importantly a fridge.
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'More importantly a fridge' Quite possibly my favourite four words! :)
Cheers.
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Well things are well and truely setup and running now.
Goldie is now sweet with the sound of the compressor and has found her spot under the flash.
I'll try get some vids for Autowars in the very near future.
Question for you all...
In past shops we never printed fleece on the auto.
And being in Queenstown (a ski town) I have some big fleece orders.
I'm not gonna go printing hundreds of hoods manually when my new toy is sitting there.
I had to spray tak every round for these... A real pain in the ass.
From memory textak aint great for fleece. correct?
Whats everyone else doing?
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Well things are well and truely setup and running now.
Goldie is now sweet with the sound of the compressor and has found her spot under the flash.
I'll try get some vids for Autowars in the very near future.
Question for you all...
In past shops we never printed fleece on the auto.
And being in Queenstown (a ski town) I have some big fleece orders.
I'm not gonna go printing hundreds of hoods manually when my new toy is sitting there.
I had to spray tak every round for these... A real pain in the ass.
From memory textak aint great for fleece. correct?
Whats everyone else doing?
Spraying after pulling each fleece! LOL Wish I had a better answer but in my shop 90% of the time we spray before each hoodie... We can run 55 doz/hr this way
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From memory textak aint great for fleece. correct?
Whats everyone else doing?
"Web" type spray adhesive is the way to go for fleece. Its the only spray we use in my shop, and we only use it for fleece and nylon bags. For everything else we use waterbased adhesive.
Make sure the web dries a bit before loading or it will leave residue on the garment. If we're in a rush (as usual), we'll spray and quickly wipe the pallet down with a cloth before loading to minimize residue transfer.
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yeah i use a web spray... ah well.
Is there such thing as a grip tape type product similar to pallete tape?
i wonder whether that could work like a skateboard grip tape to hold her in place... am i dreamin.
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yeah i use a web spray... ah well.
Is there such thing as a grip tape type product similar to pallete tape?
i wonder whether that could work like a skateboard grip tape to hold her in place... am i dreamin.
Look at the Dri Tack product to which I linked. It's like the "hooks" of velcro with the fleece providing the "loops"
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Look at the Dri Tack product to which I linked. It's like the "hooks" of velcro with the fleece providing the "loops"
I remember someone telling me how much they absolutely loved that stuff! I never got around to getting some myself though. Anyone here try that stuff?
We still use web also. To be safe spray every garment until you get a good feel for how they are going to run on the auto. We usually spray every 2-3 revolutions. Maybe more if there is a lot going on in the design.
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Look at the Dri Tack product to which I linked. It's like the "hooks" of velcro with the fleece providing the "loops"
I remember someone telling me how much they absolutely loved that stuff! I never got around to getting some myself though. Anyone here try that stuff?
We still use web also. To be safe spray every garment until you get a good feel for how they are going to run on the auto. We usually spray every 2-3 revolutions. Maybe more if there is a lot going on in the design.
I ordered one sheet, tried it, had pretty good luck and got a set, and even a set for youth boards. Then, something happened and I had some spoilage a couple of times and put 'em away.
Like I said, I have to try them again.
The Dri Tack sheet is a sheet of sheet metal, covered with slightly angled little barbs, which grip the fleece as you pull or push the squeegee towards them. You place the fleece on the board, smoothing it into the "teeth", and remove it in the opposite direction.
Ah, now I see that just above I mentioned my link, but it was in a thread about water based adhesive.
here it is again
http://dri-tack.com/index.php (http://dri-tack.com/index.php)