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screen printing => Waterbase and Discharge => Topic started by: Logoman on January 21, 2014, 02:56:34 PM
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I do not do Discharge printing but I think I would like to stick my toe in the water. I have heard some use Union, some use Rutland and so on. Throw your two cents in for me.
Thanks,
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We have used Union, Matsui, CCI and Rutland(but only their white). Out of those 3 for us CCI has been the best. Matsui and CCI have "beginner kits" also... The colors seem to be the easiest to get accurate and it seems to discharge faster than the Matsui. The Union stuff was crap and I have nothing against Union, they are actually what we use for plasticol. Matsui's "bright discharge base" is awesome stuff, but you can just add some white to the clear base for pretty much the same effect. If you do go with CCI DO NOT use their mixing white it chunks up, toss it and just use their D-White for any recipe that calls for white. I think someone else on the boards here had the same reaction/issue also with the mixing white.
Somewhat on the same topic, I am really excited to try the VIRUS line of inks. They were at the Long Beach show and have a nice product. It was heavily used in the shops that I saw in Portugal and they all seemed to like it very much.
My vote for for easy, good results, readily available would be for CCI.
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CCI gets my vote. I've tried Matsui, Rutland, Suricol, and Oasis. CCI is the most user friendly and has the brightest white.
Chris
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If you do go with CCI DO NOT use their mixing white it chunks up, toss it and just use their D-White for any recipe that calls for white. I think someone else on the boards here had the same reaction/issue also with the mixing white.
Agreed, when I first started with the CCI, I had a container of white pigment. I opened it and it was clumped up so I tossed it and ordered another and found the same thing. That's when I started ordering the premixed white.
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I do not do Discharge printing but I think I would like to stick my toe in the water. I have heard some use Union, some use Rutland and so on. Throw your two cents in for me.
Thanks,
A couple of comments - One you need to have the ability to fully evacuate all the water for the discharge to cure. 330 for 2 minutes or longer is generally recommended. The discharge action will take place prior to full cure, so you must check for wash fastness.
Second, if your goal is to simply get soft hand on dark garments, you might want to explore using a discharge under base - Magna Plascharge or Union Plasticharge - and then overprinting with soft plastisols through fine mesh (305). Additionally, both of these products can be used as "hybrids" - that is mixed with plastisol. On shirts that do not discharge very well -- a soft white discharge (Magna Blending White for instance) can be used. Avoid the use of a high opacity discharge white as an underbase.
This method means just babysitting one h20 screen. It is a great way to become acclimated to discharge printing.
Just some random thoughts.....
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If you do go with CCI DO NOT use their mixing white it chunks up, toss it and just use their D-White for any recipe that calls for white. I think someone else on the boards here had the same reaction/issue also with the mixing white.
Agreed, when I first started with the CCI, I had a container of white pigment. I opened it and it was clumped up so I tossed it and ordered another and found the same thing. That's when I started ordering the premixed white.
Does the d-white weigh out correct with the formulas you have done. I did a few and they didn't. Are you mixing d-base and d-white? (if you don't want to share on the forum you can IM me. I really would like to know.)
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If you do go with CCI DO NOT use their mixing white it chunks up, toss it and just use their D-White for any recipe that calls for white. I think someone else on the boards here had the same reaction/issue also with the mixing white.
Agreed, when I first started with the CCI, I had a container of white pigment. I opened it and it was clumped up so I tossed it and ordered another and found the same thing. That's when I started ordering the premixed white.
Does the d-white weigh out correct with the formulas you have done. I did a few and they didn't. Are you mixing d-base and d-white? (if you don't want to share on the forum you can IM me. I really would like to know.)
We are using the "Premium" D-Base and D-White, yes. There has maybe been a couple that are a bit off(yellows), but for the most part it is spot on. We end up just mixing per the recipe and replacing the white pigment with D-White same weights that are called out for on the recipe.
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What about magna super white? Anobody try against cci.
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What about magna super white? Anobody try against cci.
Some people seem to really like their white, I just haven't gotten around to ordering it yet.
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the ZFS rocks!
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Has anybody tried the CCI U-Base White under base, supposed to have a white pigment in it to lay plastisol or WB on top?
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I'd like to second Binkspot:
http://www.ccidom.com/products.php?product=U%252dBASE-WHITE-UNDER%252dBASE-DISCHARGE-INK (http://www.ccidom.com/products.php?product=U%252dBASE-WHITE-UNDER%252dBASE-DISCHARGE-INK)
Come on peeps -- info, info!!! I know one of you had to've field tested it :-).
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I almost got some a while back. The only real use of it, i see, is for nondischarging colors like royal. On discharging colors its really a step backwards in my opinion. I do know they were having issues with cracking so that is one reason it took so long for them to start selling it. Only benefit I see is a white underbase that will not be sticky.
Why use it on colors that discharge well?
Is this a ink you can PFP on poly?
Anything else I am missing?
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The "u-base" is a mix of 80% D-Base Premium and 20% D-White from what Tad told me. Just a premix of what many use for DC UB. Intended use would be as a UB with plastisol or WB top colors.
There's no reason to use a DC UB in an all DC run.
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Thats more or less correct. We've been making it here for more than 15 ys. I just shared it with a few ink companies and thats what they went back and produced. You can simply make your own.
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Has anyone here or any one care to comment about doing 20% white mixed in with 80% base for top plastisol colors? Has anyone ever ever, using that much white, got the cracking issue, or some other deleterious result?
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Works fine for us with both plastisol and HSA type WB whites over top. The end result has been wash durable and looks good.
I'm not 100% sold on DC UB, production wise, but getting there as we get better at running it on press.
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Has anybody tried the CCI U-Base White under base, supposed to have a white pigment in it to lay plastisol or WB on top?
I use an 80/20 mix daily Works great. I was also told the New DCU white was a mix of base and D-White. We also picked up CCI new WR block out, Ran it on 5 DC WB jobs and so for so good.
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Whoa, I am going to stock their blockout, glad they made one what's water resistant!
We ordered a gallon of the kiwo blue but it's all messed up and stringy, totally unusable. Likely not Kiwo's fault, the supplier we bought from seems to always be a problem somehow. Might try to power drill some distilled water into it and get it working.
Been looking for a good water resistant blockout for awhile, one more step on the quest to eliminate post exposures.
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Whoa, I am going to stock their blockout, glad they made one what's water resistant!
We ordered a gallon of the kiwo blue but it's all messed up and stringy, totally unusable. Likely not Kiwo's fault, the supplier we bought from seems to always be a problem somehow. Might try to power drill some distilled water into it and get it working.
Been looking for a good water resistant blockout for awhile, one more step on the quest to eliminate post exposures.
Kiwo, works good as well, the only problem is it turns thick and pasty. SAATI also makes one haven't had the chance to test it.