TSB
screen printing => General Screen Printing => Topic started by: ericheartsu on January 23, 2014, 11:05:17 AM
-
We've tried printing on burn outs a couple of times, but i've never been super crazy with the results. A long time client emailed me and asked if we would print them some, even though i tried persuading them not to go that route.
So, what should i be doing to print on burn outs? It's a darker colored burn out with a white imprint. Should i be using waterbased? should i use poly plastisol? I planned on using 156 screens, but i'm wondering if i should go lower?
-
Sending you an e-mail
-
A few threads on this here.
Here's the one I started some time back.
http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php/topic,4250.msg47012.html#msg47012 (http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php/topic,4250.msg47012.html#msg47012)
-
thank you tony and frog!
-
our problem, is that the client wants a bold image. not a burned out image.
would a transfer work?
-
Most likely
-
I thought posted something here, but see it's gone :o, but anyway last time we did burn outs I used regular plastisol ink with a little reducer and the print was somewhat bold, my only problem was not burning holes in them using our quartz flash and getting ink on the pallets.
Darryl
-
We just printed these this morning... Pretty bold image, client didn't want to see any "burnout" through the ink...... Must have a good dye blocking ink, and we have good luck using a roller squeegee on these to keep the print real smooth and flat.... If you need help send me a pm with the design
-
We run a couple hundred of these a week using plastisol. I do prefer discharge but this client has to have it bright as well. I am not a fan of low mesh but on these it is a given. We use a 135 for the underprint and 180 for the highlight white. The 135 is enough to fill in the voids and the 180 highlight over the top smooths it out nicely. Now the biggest thing on these is to use a smoothing screen. Gel it just enough to not stick and your end result will be as smooth as a transfer without any voids in the fabric. Done right you will get very little ink left on the pallets.
We are printing about 300 of these this afternoon or first thing in the morning. I will post a pic when done.
-
Eric for the Alt App stuff a DC?ub should. When I worked there we R&Dd them and the did very well
-
If it is one color, I would run these as a transfer simply for cleanliness, but that would just be my preference.
-
We used our heat press to smooth them down, Crossfitters must love these things that's who we print them for also.
Darryl
-
We just printed these this morning... Pretty bold image, client didn't want to see any "burnout" through the ink...... Must have a good dye blocking ink, and we have good luck using a roller squeegee on these to keep the print real smooth and flat.... If you need help send me a pm with the design
We need a "Like" Button.
Great to hear another useful application of the roller squeegee. Thank you for sharing Danny.
-
If it is one color, I would run these as a transfer simply for cleanliness, but that would just be my preference.
The proper use of a smoothing screen yields the same results. The Cool thing is that you can even do it on a manual press.
-
anyone have a link to a video or tutorial explaining the smoothing screen?
-
Not a tute, but simple explanation.
Especially on an auto, we sometimes use a screen with a solid, blank stencil in the first head with a little adhesive as a lint remover.
In a position after a flash, it ca act as a smoothing screen.
Action engineering has gone one better and made a roller that fits in the squeegee holder. Also eliminates the need for a clear base lubricant.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
That much I understood, but are there specific details related to making it produce noticeable different results? I tried it a few times as an after flash, simply coating both sides of an exposed screen with no stencil with spray silicon, and running my squeegee across the print with a good amount of pressure. Honestly, it was a lot of extra work/time for nothing. My bases are already pretty smooth, so I wasn't seeing some kind of smoother print, and I've been increasingly using 280 mesh top colors, so the prints are already pretty soft/thin. I love the idea of the adhesive screen for lint, but for manual printing this really is a lot of extra time for not much benefit. It takes maybe 10 seconds to pull a piece of lint out of a stencil every few dozen shirts.
-
We dubbed it a crush screen and use it for different reasons.