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screen printing => Equipment => Topic started by: Appstro on March 05, 2014, 07:51:18 PM
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I was going to go down tonight and pick up a lil' buddy conveyor dryer, but I need help with the voltage... The lady that is selling it has no idea if its 110 volt or 220 volt. The dryer is 40 miles away and I dont want to waste all that time driving down there only to find out its a 220 volt when I need 110/120. Is there something I can ask her that she will be able to see easily on the dryer that indicates that its a 110 or 220? I thought about telling her to look at the plug and see if its got rounded prongs, but having never seen a 220 volt conveyor I dont know if that will cause more confusion..Any idea what I can do here? Anyone know an easy way to see the difference? keep in mind (not to sound sexiist) its a woman that has no idea what to look for really. Her husband has passed and she is selling some of the screen printing stuff off.
Also...Do you think $1000.00 is a fair price for a used lil' buddy conveyor dryer?
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If she could plug it into any wall socket like she would a lamp, its 110 (actually 120 by today's standard lol).
Otherwise, I'd put money on 220.
Out of curiosity, which do you want it to be?
Price wise, I think, depending on age and condition, that price is close to fair. $750 sounds better to me, sight unseen.
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I'm guessing that there may be a boilerplate on the panel that should list specs.
A cellphone pic of the plug may also be a good start.
As for price, small dryers, especially 110's, seem to command a premium (for their size)as they are so popular with small startups and often are kept as spares or portables for on-site printing.
If you have the room and the juice, a ten to twelve footer could go for similar money. They tend to be in the way when shops upgrade.
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I was going to go down tonight and pick up a lil' buddy conveyor dryer, but I need help with the voltage... The lady that is selling it has no idea if its 110 volt or 220 volt. The dryer is 40 miles away and I dont want to waste all that time driving down there only to find out its a 220 volt when I need 110/120. Is there something I can ask her that she will be able to see easily on the dryer that indicates that its a 110 or 220? I thought about telling her to look at the plug and see if its got rounded prongs, but having never seen a 220 volt conveyor I don't know if that will cause more confusion..Any idea what I can do here? Anyone know an easy way to see the difference? keep in mind (not to sound sexiist) its a woman that has no idea what to look for really. Her husband has passed and she is selling some of the screen printing stuff off.
Also...Do you think $1000.00 is a fair price for a used lil' buddy conveyor dryer?
(not to sound sexiist) but you don't know what to look for either...(your a guy right?)
110 will have a normal plug like a grounded drill or lamp.
220 is usually hard wired or will have a plug like your dryer or stove. It really depends on if it was wired for commercial or residential. I had a ponyXpress dryer that used 2 regular house plugs. There is tons of way it could be set up.
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OK thanks everyone. I called her and talked her through it. Man I love this board!!! Everyone here is so helpful!
Its a 115 volt which is exactly what I need. Now I need to find someone to help me move it!
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its a NEMA 6-20R plug. Its for a 20 amp service. Most house hold plugs are only 15 if you have an older house. Your Washer plug should be a NEMA 6-20R.
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OK thanks everyone. I called her and talked her through it. Man I love this board!!! Everyone here is so helpful!
Its a 115 volt which is exactly what I need. Now I need to find someone to help me move it!
That should fit in a car or suv
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http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php/topic,10165.0.html (http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php/topic,10165.0.html)
still have this if your deal doesnt work out, was asking 500$
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Dangit!!! that always happens to me :( I saw your post a few weeks back but couldnt find it again and figured it sold. Ah well the new conveyor is safely back home and seems to be in almost unused condition. :)
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Congrats...........so...........
110 or 220?
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115 :)
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Keep in mind, once you get going, that 220 (another dryer down the line) will save on electricity cost, which is going to be big, compared to a normal bill without that dryer running. So don't be too cheap on your prices.
Steve
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115 :)
Understood. Actually i believe your electric supply is rated at 120. Just keep an eye on the Amp Draw so you don't overload a circuit.
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115 :)
Understood. Actually i believe your electric supply is rated at 120. Just keep an eye on the Amp Draw so you don't overload a circuit.
115v, 120v, 110v etc are often used interchangeably in regards to standard socket voltage in the US. 110v is old school. 115v is how appliances are designed - they are made to run on 115 volt power give or take about 10% voltage difference.
Supply in a single leg of of the two phases in typical residential electricity is spec'd to be 120v. Not always metered at that voltage, line loss etc can make it drop plus other variables. I may measure anywhere from 108v to 125v or more.
The two phases together make 240v. This is what is supplied to most houses in two phases (legs). Residential dryer outlets are often labeled as 220v, 230v etc but it's spec'd as 240v.
This is completely different from 3-phase power, where two combined phases produce 208v and all three produce 240v.
As you were.
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Annnd....
A handy formula to figure out how big the circuit should be (roughly) is to follow Ohm's law.
Take the listed wattage, divide by the listed voltage to get the amperage. Conversely, you can take the listed amperage and multiply by the voltage to get the amperage, etc.
There are variables (resistance, line loss, efficiency, etc) but this gets you in the ballpark.
Important, if it's a 20 amp heating appliance, give it a DEDICATED 20 amp circuit with a dedicated, properly installed receptacle and plug.
You can go with a NEMA twist lock, (L5-20R and L5-20P) which is nice to have if a small dryer or flash is on wheels and getting toted around the shop, or at the least use a 5-20R and 5-20P set up:
(http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/52/52a94315-a52e-430a-a8f7-8c4064e585d7_400.jpg)
DO NOT do some stupid s!@# like I've seen before where someone takes a pair of pliers and twists a prong on a 15 amp cord to fit a 20 amp circuit. Especially with heating equipment. Electrical fires are dumb.
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I have a dedicated 20 amp curcuit so we are good. Actually did 50 shirts today. Makes life SO much easier than the old flash. Didnt even use the flash today :) Now I need a decent heat temp gun. My ryobi jumps all over the place. I have the motor running at about 40 and the shirts are smoking a little. Passed the stretch test. The temp at the gun is anywhere from 285 to 360 :o
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The temp at the gun is anywhere from 285 to 360 :o
They will do that. Temp guns are meant to read temps AT the surface, not the ACTUAL surface. They are fantastic for diagnosing air leaks around doors and windows, not so great for ink.
You'll get in the ball park then you need to wash test.