TSB
screen printing => General Screen Printing => Topic started by: Printhouse on August 12, 2011, 03:35:30 PM
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OK... I have made a good run at printing pretty much simple spot color designs for the past year. Today I had a customer contact me with a design that includes some simple fades. The file was sent to me as a jpeg and a eps. This design is going on black shirts and figured it would basically be a white underbase and then a simple one color print with the lime green. In the artwork the lime green is a pantone solid color but all the shading is cmyk. I usually use corel to output my color seps to my epson 1400 via Accurip. I cannot figure out the best way to get this entire design to print out at once to allow for it to be printed with just the lime green. I can make this happen if I am the one doing the initial design and just use a gradient fill fading from my pantone to another color. Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated!
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I would do a white base 160 mesh -or 230 depending on the garments, solid lime green print -flash- and a 3rd screen for the darker green (or is it black?) in all the shaded areas like the top of the bars and bottom of the tire. making it a 3 color.
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They said that it was the black of the tee showing through.
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in that case, a 230 mesh, opaque lime green and p/f/p. no base needed.
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I don't know Corel, But in Illustrator you would just replace the CMYk areas with a spot pantone color to get the films you need. this would be in the gradients pallet.
You could just print the Yellow of the CMYK for the green and maybe the Blue would make a nice choked back white plate....!
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Simple answer, you weren't asking about mesh, you were asking how to output it from the Corel file.
And there's a couple proper answers for this, but they depend on the file being created properly in the first place,
or, you going in and fixing things.
If you know bitmaps, get it to scale, and make the seps out of greyscale bitmaps.
If you absolutely need vector and it's fubar, make a bitmap out of it ( high res, no aliasing ) , but posterize it hardcore ( limit colors )
Then trace and color as you will. Corny, but it works to a degree.
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Streeter, did the file work?
Elf, the problem with gradients was that whoever did the design, expanded the gradient and the file had million small pieces instead of few gradients.
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ah poop, your right - i wasn't paying attention again.
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ah poop, your right - i wasn't paying attention again.
Homer, forgetting that your answer being a little off from what was asked, can you really get a successful in-your-face lime green on black with a simple p-f-p through a 230?
I know that with a true glow or neon I would have real trouble.
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Been there before, deleting a bazillion rectangles..... I'd definitely just print the Yellow from CMYK and use it, maybe for both white and green, maybe put some acetate n the screen to choke it for the white.....
Get er done!
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yes I have before -I used an ink from One Stroke, I forget the series, versamax or colormax maybe? it had really fine details I couldn't hold with a base. . it wasn't as bright as we are seeing on screen here - but it was bright lime green. laying the ink on top of the shirt was key, too much pressure dulled the print way down.
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This is just one of those colors which which I have a little trouble, sometimes two different problems. One is how some folks use the names, Lime Green and Fluorescent Green almost interchangeably, and the other is actual coverage, especially with the inherent opacity problems of true fluorescent inks.
I don't know which color Printhouse and Too Bad are really looking for.
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I hear ya frog! I have about 5 versions of this color in the shop. They reange from a very opaque rutland to a very thin ICC. Each very on the actual color very little. I was hoping that once I got the actual art figured out and on screen I would run a few samples for them to choose from. Dan and Dennis have both been a HUGE help and I think I have it nailed down. I am working a 24 hour shift today then I wil try and burn the test screen in the morning and see how it goes.
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Best way to print this is with a halftone base of the fade then a solid print of the lime green, Blending will be perfect. Mow as for a s printing halftones with Corel through your epson you will need a rip of some sort. If this is the real question then let us know.
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Printhouse, I'd like to see the file(s). I had a idea (probably stupid) and would like to see if it would work.
Wayne -
screenxpress@yahoo.com
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One Stroke ink...PFP no base
Get the ink that requires no base. I just got some of thier Hybrid white and it cost a little more but it is sweet. You know the problems with finding a good all around white :( Like ya'll I have tried them all. By the way I have 2 gall. of Xenon white I got from Sonny I can sell to anyone at a good price if ya interested.
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I didn't care for the hybrid white at all. It has blowing agent in it. I HATE that they do that. If I wanted it, I would add it myself. I effing hate blowing agent in my ink.
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I will post up soe of the results when I get to the shop today. Thanks to Dan and Dennis I was able to get some samples out on the short norice dealine I had. As you will see.... when I did just the lime green on the black it was just not covering they way I would have liked. I tried a white underfbase but it muddied up the design a little. Now white ink on the black tees and lime ink on white tees turned out perfect. The client wants to redo the art a little from scratch so I should be able to use corel and redo the fades pretty easily. I really have to learn photoshop and illustrator a little better...
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I will post up soe of the results when I get to the shop today. Thanks to Dan and Dennis I was able to get some samples out on the short norice dealine I had. As you will see.... when I did just the lime green on the black it was just not covering they way I would have liked. I tried a white underfbase but it muddied up the design a little. Now white ink on the black tees and lime ink on white tees turned out perfect. The client wants to redo the art a little from scratch so I should be able to use corel and redo the fades pretty easily. I really have to learn photoshop and illustrator a little better...
You are welcome.
I have to stop by one day too :) I'll give you a call as soon as it slows down
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I tried a white under base but it muddied up the design a little.
That sounds odd. A white under base would do everything (except muddy it up). As George Carlin once said, "Something has gone a foul inside of the tomato, it just doesn't look right".
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I would normally agree 100% Dan, but I've used some flouro inks that pretty much suck.
They just don't play well with others, heh.
Likely the low mesh I'm driving them, and the base, through.