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screen printing => Ink and Chemicals => Topic started by: Prosperi-Tees on May 31, 2014, 01:38:33 AM
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The ones I have used have had a good gloss to them. Any that don't? Also I am going to be printing the new 100% poly Gildans (white on asstd colors), any experience with those?
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No experience with those particular shirts...but I really like the Wilflex Top Score line of poly inks. Seems to have a nicer matte finish than other poly inks.
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The Wilflex Performance White is ace and then we have here a japanese ink brand, ColorMax, their white is pretty matte and opaque.
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Top score does a nice job
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Performance White
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I am assuming you are talking about the gildan poly shirts that "feel" like cotton -we ran a few jobs of them and not one single person liked them that got one...they feel really....weird....
you can always heat press them after and knock the shine out.
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I lagged on this so it looks like I am going to use Rutland Super Poly. What do you guys think? 110 mesh and try a one hit (going on black red and blue 100% poly jersey shirts, the t-shirt feeling type not the smooth drifit) or go with a 160 and PFP? They have a fairly heavy ink coverage on them.
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We use Rut Super Poly as well, Haven't experienced any sheen in about 20 gals of use so far.
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If you don't achieve the one hit you want will you pfp that 110 or will you then burn another screen with a 160 and PFP? We haven't printed these yet with white ink so I don' t know their ability to hold a good ink deposit but if you're confident then do the 110. The 160 PFP will put down about 25% more ink than the 110 with one stroke and the typical 110/81 PFP is bordering on too thick of an ink deposit, ESPECIALLY with the amount of puff in the rutland super poly.
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The Gildan 100% Poly shirts fuzz up through the print like crazy, choose an ink with good fibre matt-down. Gloss likely won't be too much of a problem unless you put on a supper thick coat of ink or post-press/roller them.
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If you don't achieve the one hit you want will you pfp that 110 or will you then burn another screen with a 160 and PFP? We haven't printed these yet with white ink so I don' t know their ability to hold a good ink deposit but if you're confident then do the 110. The 160 PFP will put down about 25% more ink than the 110 with one stroke and the typical 110/81 PFP is bordering on too thick of an ink deposit, ESPECIALLY with the amount of puff in the rutland super poly.
The puff is what I am worried about. If the 110 doesn't cut it and I would have to PFP that would be awful. So I think to be safe the 160 is the way to go and PFP with that.
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Use a halftoned underbase. That always works for me.
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Yeah I'd go with a 160 or even 180S. Good athletic ink should be no problem blocking dye migration on the shirts, so 110 P.F.P. sounds like major overkill on such a light fabric.
Watch for the fibrilation, or whatever it's called.
Also beware poly inks using Hydrogen Peroxide as a bleaching agent. Got very burnt by ghosting and poor migration blocking last year. A little puff isn't all that bad compared to risking a problem.
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Would anyone say that those shirts print anything like the sport tek ST700, 95 poly 5 spandex fuzzballs? I told the sales staff to stop selling them cause they are so terrible to print on and if the new 100% poly gildans are anywhere close to the ST I want to avoid them as well.
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The Gildan 100% Poly shirts fuzz up through the print like crazy, choose an ink with good fibre matt-down. Gloss likely won't be too much of a problem unless you put on a supper thick coat of ink or post-press/roller them.
This is exactly what happened, fuzzness. Im thinking I should drop down to a 130 or 110
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rockers please send me address of colormax
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I am assuming you are talking about the gildan poly shirts that "feel" like cotton -we ran a few jobs of them and not one single person liked them that got one...they feel really....weird....
Printed some for shop shirts. I never wear them, to clingy for me and yes...weird.