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screen printing => General Screen Printing => Topic started by: inkman996 on June 04, 2014, 09:03:12 AM
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So I am going to give the S threads a shot and buy three from KMS in NC. What i want to know what is your best recommendation to get for testing purposes, mesh count/tensions etc. Is it worth trying a 110 for those simple one color white screens? Or go for higher mesh counts, basically where does one see the most advantages with these screens.
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I was told by the man him self that the most common two are 150s & 225s. I am pretty sure that the 100 is T not S. I was told its just as good but a bit stronger.
Murphy37
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I purchased one of each 110S, 150S, 225S & 330S for testing. My normal thread counts are 125, 158, 200, 225, & 305.
Chris
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Definitely get a 150. I use the 110/71's a good bit but have moved most of our white designs on darks to the 120/54. It might not seem like it but the 110/71 puts down a noticeably thinner deposit than the 110 that most are accustomed to. PFP through a 150/48 on most dark garments will give you 99-100% opacity with the right squeegee blade, angle and pressure. On the 110/71, it's a no doubt 100% opaque print PFP on any type of garment. On 100% poly we will use the 150 or 180 to underbase with but we've been using the 180/48 more and more for underbasing on those tighter weaved garments. We have more 150 and 180 screens than any other mesh counts, they are our workhorses. A black print on any color usually goes on a 180 and we print with little pressure and at 25"/sec for a perfectly smooth print with very little risk of fibrillation happening down the road. If we're printing a wow print then we'll step up to the 225's for those colors getting stepped on. One color jobs regardless of color shirt or ink can be done on the 150 and 180 so I'd say get those at the very least and depending on how many you get maybe a few 225's and one or two 110's.
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150s and 225s account for probably 80% of our screens with the 225s being top dog. We also have say 15% 180d and 5% 310s.
We do use the 135s for our tag printer.
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OK from what I gather here I will ditch the 110 for now and look at it again in the future, especially for mettalics etc. In our shop 160's and 190's are our work horses so i will get 2 160's 2 180's and 2 225's, turns out they have a 6 minimum.
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I may need to try some of these, where you guys buying them?
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I get mine from Kevin at River City Graphics Supply in Austin. He will ship to anywhere and get's his straight from Murakami. I don't know if the other suppliers are having the mesh stretched somewhere else or if they get them direct from Murakami, but I'd find out. I know the Murakami screens are of great quality. Not saying the others aren't, I just don't know.
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Same as Alan.
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Thanks guys!
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Or get ahold of Alan @ Murakami. He is on this board & is a big help.
abuffington
Murphy37
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I may need to try some of these, where you guys buying them?
http://www.kmssllc.com/ (http://www.kmssllc.com/)
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We have them stocked and do free shipping on all supply orders over $100.00. You can call us or order online.
Thanks!
Kevin
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I mainly use 150s and 200s. I have a couple of 160s and 225s as well. My next order will be for more 150s and a bunch of 180s.
I purchased mine from Westar Solutions in Washington. Tension is not great on them, but they are still better than any statics I've ever used before. I'm going to order more soon from River City.
Anyone have any reclaiming advice? I'm pretty careful with them, but my 150s seem to get very mild tears in the weave. It hasn't effected any of my prints, but I imagine it will only get worse with time.
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Dont use an abrasive brush on s mesh, that is probably where those tears have come from. Also invest in strong chemicals so they do a good jobs breaking down ink and emulsion so you are not required to scrub so hard. Dip tanks are a popular option for these.
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Anyone have any reclaiming advice? I'm pretty careful with them, but my 150s seem to get very mild tears in the weave. It hasn't effected any of my prints, but I imagine it will only get worse with time.
We use to use the brush for reclaiming. But it gave us scratch marks. The sponge just breaks down. So we roll up some small rags for reclaiming. Once used/dried, we throw them away because dried emulsion can scratch the mesh.
Also invest in strong chemicals so they do a good jobs breaking down ink and emulsion so you are not required to scrub so hard. Dip tanks are a popular option for these.
I might do that.
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Dont use an abrasive brush on s mesh, that is probably where those tears have come from. Also invest in strong chemicals so they do a good jobs breaking down ink and emulsion so you are not required to scrub so hard. Dip tanks are a popular option for these.
You nailed it. I'll ditch the scrub pads. Any recommendation on how to apply the dehazer chemical after the emulsion is washed off?
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I am guessing you are using a paste haze remover applied with a brush? Switching to a liquid would be the easy fix. You shouldnt have to use such a caustic haze remover on every screen though. Proper exposure time, not using screen opener, strong emulsion remover, and a stain remover degreaser should work on most your frames.
If you have to use a brush for the HR you could use a sponge instead of a pad.
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MacDermid chemical brushes. They are expensive but worth every penny. You won't regret the purchase.
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I mainly use 150s and 200s. I have a couple of 160s and 225s as well.
I didn't know Murakami made 160s and 200s. Are you sure those are the "S" mesh? I could DEFINITELY be wrong, but I thought I looked pretty hard for 200s before.
Anyone in the Midwest, Northwest Graphic(in Minnesota) stretches them. You can probably order them from anyone there but I usually talk to Ben....
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I mainly use 150s and 200s. I have a couple of 160s and 225s as well.
I didn't know Murakami made 160s and 200s. Are you sure those are the "S" mesh? I could DEFINITELY be wrong, but I thought I looked pretty hard for 200s before.
Anyone in the Midwest, Northwest Graphic(in Minnesota) stretches them. You can probably order them from anyone there but I usually talk to Ben....
According to Westar Solutions, they only stretch their screens with S-Thread. I've used similar mesh sizes that were non-murakami and these have to be S-Thread because they clear so much easier.
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We have them stocked and do free shipping on all supply orders over $100.00. You can call us or order online.
Thanks!
Kevin
Just ordered 3!
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We have them stocked and do free shipping on all supply orders over $100.00. You can call us or order online.
Thanks!
Kevin
Just ordered 3!
I would like to hear your thoughts on those!
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I will report back.
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So where can I order these close to colorado? Must be true murakami screens though, not just mesh. Any ideas anyone?
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So where can I order these close to colorado? Must be true murakami screens though, not just mesh. Any ideas anyone?
I think River City is the closest dealer to CO. Murakami is out of CA so I think its the same ship time though
Murphy37