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screen printing => Equipment => Topic started by: screenprintguy on June 08, 2014, 09:59:08 PM
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We started hearing one of our bearings ticking and making noise on and off the last week. So I ordered replacement bearings and figured I'd pop in today and swap it out. Maaaaaan, forget about poppin in and out. 3 hrs dkin around with it, 3 different sized pullers and still couldn't get the bad one off. I should have started earlier in the day, all stores are closed. I think I need a low profile 2 arm puller. I'm too dam into it now to hold off and have production to get done tomorrow. Hope I can conquer this early.
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Are you talking about the bearings or the pulley? If its the bearing that won't budge try heating up the shaft a bit.
Murphy37
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Are you talking about the bearings or the pulley? If its the bearing that won't budge try heating up the shaft a bit.
Murphy37
Pulley came off quick, this bearing is on there good.
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Try heating up the shaft a bit it should contract a bit, also make sure the inner bearing is not twisted I have had the most trouble with these when this happens. M&R has a heat sling that helps with heat transference to the bearings & is supper easy to put on & I think is about $60 but I can't remember.
Murphy37
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I do feel your pain. I have had bearings take as little as a few hours to as long as a whole day depending on how warped the inner bearing is on the shaft.
Murphy37
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Damit man. I'm really hoping to pop it off in the morning or I'm in a bad spot.
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One time the person that did the work previously used Loctite on the pulley>:( when they put it back on, I damn near had to break the thing to get it off.
Murphy37
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Autozone use to rent pullers for people working on their cars, and some of them are open 24 hours. Just ab idea.
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Make sure the replacement parts include what you are going to cut. Get some 4" cutoff or zip wheels to go in a grinder. Cut the cast housing in two places across from each other. Do not cut into the shaft. You do not have to cut all the way through, maybe half or three quarters. Then use a big chisel in the place you cut to split it and pull it off. Now you will be left with the bearing. Split the outer race in two places then use the chisel, pick up all the balls when they fall out. The inner race only needs to be split in one place then drive the chisel into the slot and it should slide off. Sometime the outer will come off with one cut. You may have to cut it diagonally to get the zip wheel deep enough. I don't even get a puller with those types of bearing, just a grinder or a torch and split them.
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Ok, so I finally found a low profile puller, I'll try that first, see how this goes. If not, I'll go Brian's route. Could probably save some time just going Brian's route, but I have a bad habit of breaking something bad if I go destructive mode lol.
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ugh, I need to replace both of my on my 1989 Vortex dryer. They have been whiny since I bought it and I have been pumping grease in them more than I should. How to you support the shaft while removing the bearing? Just unbolt and let it rest on the airbox frame? I was thinking I'd have to crawl inside the dang thing and brace it.
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This sux big time man. I hope you have better luck. Looks like I'm going in Binkspot style. no luck with the low profile puller and heat from the torch. Time to break out the highspeed cutter
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Everything is brittle so a good blow with a heavy hammer and chisel once cut it will fall apart.
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Everything is brittle so a good blow with a heavy hammer and chisel once cut it will fall apart.
Ok, Got it off!! Thanks Brian!, Now, how the hell do I get the new one on, seems pretty snug and I don't want to get half way in and not be able to push it all the way. Is there a trick?
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First make sure the end of the shaft is not mushroomed or any burs, clean and smooth. It should fit snugly and need a little heat to expand it. I know you all think I'm nuts but. I would cool the shaft with a ice pack and heat the bearing up. I know you don't have an induction heater so put it in a oven or toaster oven heat until your spit boils and rolls off (200-250) then slide it on. Make sure it goes on straight, smooth and one shot. In a pinch you can rapid cool the shaft with a CO2 fire extinguisher
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I know you all think I'm nuts but. I would cool the shaft with a ice pack and heat the bearing up.
pretty standard practice, nothing nuts about it!!!
pierre
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Am I doing it wrong when I just greased the shaft and the inside of the bearing, pushed on enough so it sat there and then hit with a hammer with a piece of wood covering it? Seriously? Its worked twice for me so far. I tried the whole heat thing and got no where the first time. I'm just curious if its being over thought. Again what I did was probably wrong but i've replaced my bearings twice so far on my heatwave this way.
~Ryan
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I read on an auto repair forum last night where a guy working on the same dryer, same issue had to do the same thing, bake the bearing and freeze the shaft. Whoda thunk it right! Man. Everyone here is staying clear of me right now for sure though lol
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I know you all think I'm nuts but. I would cool the shaft with a ice pack and heat the bearing up.
pretty standard practice, nothing nuts about it!!!
pierre
I always cool my nuts and shaft with ice packs when they heat up too...wait, maybe I read that wrong :o
Cool your nuts Mike, cool your nuts...if all else fails, get a bigger hammer ;D
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My post was based on the assumption the beat it on method was already tried. I just always heated and or cooled so it would literally fall together. Why work harder when you have physics.
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Thanks for the comedy Homer, I needed that!!!
I'll give it all a try and see how it goes.
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Everyone thinks I'm crazy now for sure, put an ice pack on the shaft and had somone put the toaster oven next to the dryer and put the bearing in there, they are like, dude, you sure you didn't inhale any of that smoke before
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First make sure the end of the shaft is not mushroomed or any burs, clean and smooth. It should fit snugly and need a little heat to expand it. I know you all think I'm nuts but. I would cool the shaft with a ice pack and heat the bearing up. I know you don't have an induction heater so put it in a oven or toaster oven heat until your spit boils and rolls off (200-250) then slide it on. Make sure it goes on straight, smooth and one shot. In a pinch you can rapid cool the shaft with a CO2 fire extinguisher
No one should think you are crazy, Metal or anything for that matter expands when heated. Cooling the shaft will contract the metal (shrink) allowing the bearing to slide on easier.
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Am I doing it wrong when I just greased the shaft and the inside of the bearing, pushed on enough so it sat there and then hit with a hammer with a piece of wood covering it? Seriously? Its worked twice for me so far. I tried the whole heat thing and got no where the first time. I'm just curious if its being over thought. Again what I did was probably wrong but i've replaced my bearings twice so far on my heatwave this way.
~Ryan
Nothing wrong with doing a bearing that way except you take a chance of damaging a brand new bearing if it is not going on correctly and you are forcing it on.
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Am I doing it wrong when I just greased the shaft and the inside of the bearing, pushed on enough so it sat there and then hit with a hammer with a piece of wood covering it? Seriously? Its worked twice for me so far. I tried the whole heat thing and got no where the first time. I'm just curious if its being over thought. Again what I did was probably wrong but i've replaced my bearings twice so far on my heatwave this way.
~Ryan
I thought that any percussive action on a bearing during installation runs the risk of damage, with indentations in the race.
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As long as your beating on the part of the race that's dragging like the inner race on a shat or outer in a bore. That being said I have split or cracked (ruined) my fare share of bearing beating them onto a shaft.
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When I worked for a large cemetery we replaced bearings on all the equipment all the time. After damaging so damn many we bought a bearing fitting kit. Simply an assortment of sleeves that you used to tap the bearing on to the shaft. Like Brian said you need to be only tapping on the stationary part nothing else, also a good trick is use a heavy mallet but do not strike hard. Light taps repeatedly will get it done hitting to hard can cause damage.
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UP and running, and praying that it's holding!!!! Sounds good though, no more harsh sound. I was able to get it halfway on with the heating freezing technique, then I put the pulley on, tapped a piece of wood against the pulley's body, pulled the pulley back off and used the bolts to pull it in the rest of the way, then put the pulley back on. What a freakin pain in the arse. now I know though, it's not even worth messing with, just cut that sucker off from the get go.
Thanks for the help guys!!!
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If you used the bolts to pull it on give the shaft a sharp blow on the end to seat the bearing. If there is a thrust load on the bearing it won't last or the housing will crack. This will seat everything including the bearing on the other end.
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Now that you have it all done, imagine the fun I had replacing the main blower shaft and bearings on an old 72" SuperSprint. THAT was fun. Almost killed a smart a$$ sales rep that came in on a cold call and thought it would be fun to laugh about what I was doing.
Glad you got it done.
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I can only imagine Dave, I'da told him, either get in here and help me, or find your way out into the alley, FAST, lol. It seems to be running smooth.
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I just looked up at him and said, "This would be a very good time for you to leave." next time I looked up he was gone. Good for a 12 Pack on his next arranged visit though ;D