TSB
screen printing => Separations => Topic started by: projay on August 22, 2011, 08:26:41 PM
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Any suggestions on printer settings to obtain dark black on films. New to this printer any tips/suggestions would be appreciated.
-Jay
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yeah..
ACCURIP!
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We have the same printer and get pretty black films with just the black cart printing. We also use accurip.
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The K3 ink in the 4800 is weaker than one would wish for screenprint positives. You can get a Wasatch RIP SP which allows you to print at hi-res and lower he ink to about 50%, that should give you a good dense positive.
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The K3 ink in the 4800 is weaker than one would wish for screenprint positives. You can get a Wasatch RIP SP which allows you to print at hi-res and lower he ink to about 50%, that should give you a good dense positive.
Dump the K3 and get Dye.
Then you don't have to use that nasty milky waterproof film and you can use this film for $56 bucks!
http://stuff4print.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=43_28&products_id=156 (http://stuff4print.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=43_28&products_id=156)
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The K3 ink in the 4800 is weaker than one would wish for screenprint positives. You can get a Wasatch RIP SP which allows you to print at hi-res and lower he ink to about 50%, that should give you a good dense positive.
Dump the K3 and get Dye.
Then you don't have to use that nasty milky waterproof film and you can use this film for $56 bucks!
[url]http://stuff4print.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=43_28&products_id=156[/url] ([url]http://stuff4print.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=43_28&products_id=156[/url])
Whats your beef with the waterProof film? I happen to like it very much over nonwaterproof, unless I just have not found the right nonwaterproof film yet. Right now I,m using a WPF from WM Plastics call microjet about $110 a box 13x18.
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I don't like waterproof film either. I am buying the stuff from Brannon at Spot Color Supply and love it. I use a the hybrid ink from inkcarts.us or something like that. It ROCKS!!!!
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I also dislike waterproof films. But I did get some Silkjet in (my old standby) and it sucks. The quest continues...
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Whats your beef with the waterProof film? I happen to like it very much over nonwaterproof, unless I just have not found the right nonwaterproof film yet. Right now I,m using a WPF from WM Plastics call microjet about $110 a box 13x18.
I find it's more expensive for a product that I don't need. Most waterproof coatings are designed for use with pigment based inks (K3 series) that tend to be very thin and flow easy. The coating is designed to gel with the ink on contact so it won't smear. This coating also gives WP film a cloudy haze that requires a longer burn time to fully penetrate the stencil. Once dry the pigment and coating are resistant to water put will always have a stick to the film from your fingers and even your arm when you lay across film for whatever reason.
The Dye inks are thicker and don't need a coating to prevent them from running. This allows you to use a clear film with no coating. Less burn time but if you spill water in it, the dye runs like mascara and you have to re-make the film. I don't get my films wet and If I did, it would just be easier to make a new film.
When my film cost was .94 a foot I had to think about where and how I made film. Now at .43 a foot I don't feel bad when an extra 3" of film is used per image to fit my registration setup.
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I also don't have a use for the waterproof films. I get mine locally for less than $85 per box of 100pcs 13X19.
I do have to say that i got samples of the waterproof...output some dots and sprayed water on both sides to see what happens. After drying, it didn't affect the ink on the film.
Probably needed for some:)
Paul
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Any suggestions on printer settings to obtain dark black on films. New to this printer any tips/suggestions would be appreciated.
-Jay
We use this. Best purchase ever!
http://www.filmdirectonline.com/products/Single-Black-Large-Format-Ink-Kit.html (http://www.filmdirectonline.com/products/Single-Black-Large-Format-Ink-Kit.html)
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Can I chime in? I think what Jay was asking is what setting do you use on the printer itself. I know nothing about printers, much less Epsons, but somewhere there are setting for paper, glossy, film, etc. I think those are what he was asking about.
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Can I chime in? I think what Jay was asking is what setting do you use on the printer itself. I know nothing about printers, much less Epsons, but somewhere there are setting for paper, glossy, film, etc. I think those are what he was asking about.
I don’t think anyone missed that - the unwritten reply was:
Dude, was there and did that, do yourself a favor and get a RIP (forget all of that internet BS about saving money buying some internet article “book”).
The IProof RIP is another good choice.
Also the inks...
Get the dye based or hybrid inks the results will be like white and black, the epson inks are difficult to get up to par and the inks help greatly - not a little bit but shockingly better.
He did not say so but because of the very nature of the question the user likely has a low-powered exposure unit the very unit that demands the best positive you can produce to overcome the slower exposures.
Anyone ever hear about “cascading effects” in production?