TSB
screen printing => Ink and Chemicals => Topic started by: IntegrityShirts on August 19, 2014, 11:08:26 AM
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I have never used an underbase grey. When is it appropriate and which grey do you all use?
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First to clarify, not a poly block grey question...
Use a light grey 422ish...
When printing on gray or most any color shirts....
When you are concerned about which screen to move with a white HL..
When you need something that flashes faster than a HO white....
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Wilflex under base gray mixed 30% with 70% our normal white to make a light gray.
Whenever we are not using the base for a white.
Gives a nice smooth base and good coverage to lay other colors on top.
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Rutland Barrier Gray
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Wilflex under base gray mixed 30% with 70% our normal white to make a light gray.
Whenever we are not using the base for a white.
Gives a nice smooth base and good coverage to lay other colors on top.
You mean this one that's $141 per gallon? http://www.sourceoneonline.com/item.asp?categoryID=0§ionID=0&subSectionID=0&subSection2ID=0&subSection3ID=0&attrCatID=0&attrIDs=0&searchtext=underbase&catID=13&catTab=&productID=1817 (http://www.sourceoneonline.com/item.asp?categoryID=0§ionID=0&subSectionID=0&subSection2ID=0&subSection3ID=0&attrCatID=0&attrIDs=0&searchtext=underbase&catID=13&catTab=&productID=1817)
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Yup and $141 is why it's cut and too thick to print out of bucket
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Yup and $141 is why it's cut and too thick to print out of bucket
Gotcha, that makes sense! What's your white of choice to cut with? I'm on a miami superior and smooth kick right now.
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Wilflex quick or IC legacy but that could change at a moments notice.
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I look at it more from an art perspective and color limitations.
The color of gray for me, would depend on the content of the art.
Art with a lot of light gray can be great. Provides a good bright underbase....and, you can use that as one of your colors. In cases where the gray color is actually being used in the art, I go up a Pantone number, knowing that it's going to darken more on the shirt.
Art that has a lot of darker shadow tones can be under based by what's considered a darker gray. Not too dark, but a middle of the road gray or slightly darker.
This makes it much more easier to hold deep shadow tones.
Most often, I prefer to use a medium gray that leans on the light side.
For this, I can split the art in the middle. For example, I can use the top white and even colors to make lighter colors and pastel whites. I can use a dark blue or black or even red to lay over the medium gray to make good shadows. Here in this case, I would be using more black than I would if using a dark gray.
It's always best to try and use as little black in your art as possible. I tend to mix color with darker color predominantly and add in a bit of black to beef those dark areas up more.
It's rare, but there are times when I might even set the art up to have a black ink flashed and print under some other grays, if possible. Wet on wet. That makes a more rich and soft grayscale look.
Gray inks like that on gray tees can be awesome.
These are just different ways to skin a cat.
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I used underbase/blocker grey once so far when I printed on camo....then hit it with a white blocker...then laid the florescent orange on top..(took 4 hits of the orange to get that vibrant florescent pop...the florescent orange is a thin ink)
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Is there any white blocker.? Whats the brand name?
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Is there any white blocker.? Whats the brand name?
i think i might have miss spoke... i just may have used a typical white plastisol on top of the grey blocker....i printed these last year ..i will look in my ink line up to see if i have a white blocker....but i think i had faith in just the grey blocker only then laid regular inks (white on top of grey but was also the underbase for the florecent orange) on top of it.