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screen printing => Ink and Chemicals => Topic started by: screenprintguy on September 29, 2014, 01:17:20 PM
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Any of you guys ever print this stuff? Just got some in, the rep recommended a 25 mesh count. The glitter didn't look that heavy, just wondering if you guys have ever done any of this stuff and what mesh counts you used.
Thanks!
Mike
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It blows first timers away, but all glitters are printed with mesh that looks like window screens.
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It blows first timers away, but all glitters are printed with mesh that looks like window screens.
We've done lot's of shimmers, but he swore since it's glitter we need the bigger holes. I have like 5- 35meshed newmans from when I bought a bunch of used ones, just never used them. I wondered on the coating of such big open holes. Frog, what would you recommend, a 2 over 2 or just a good 2 over 1? I'm using chroma blue 50% solids
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It blows first timers away, but all glitters are printed with mesh that looks like window screens.
We've done lot's of shimmers, but he swore since it's glitter we need the bigger holes. I have like 5- 35meshed newmans from when I bought a bunch of used ones, just never used them. I wondered on the coating of such big open holes. Frog, what would you recommend, a 2 over 2 or just a good 2 over 1? I'm using chroma blue 50% solids
To tell you the truth, I haven't used glitter since learning about EOM.
What does One Stroke say in their tech sheet?
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This is what works for me. I'm not saying it's the right way, or the best way. Just hat we found works for us.
We use a 26 mesh for glitters. We make our own glitter with flakes and base. We found if you don't have enough EOM, the mesh acts more like a sieve, straining the flakes. So we use an emulsion for building BIG EOM. Kiwo XXL is what comes to mind without going in back and looking. I think we coat 2 back 4 front to get a thick enough stencil. We like to be a day or two ahead of print day to make and dry the stencil. If you try to coat heavy with a regular emulsion on this mesh.....well good luck.
Also, we use Newman frames and I hate the idea of inserting a coarse mesh like this in the channels. This might be a time to try a Shur-Loc panel or two if you haven't yet.
Again, this in our shop.
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We just printed some wilflex silver glitter over the weekend.
a few notes...
we used 24mesh screens.
roughly 550 microns of EOM (total thickness - mesh thickness).
(2x6 coating on Aquasol HS)
printed at roughly 15 psi.
prints turned out great.
be real careful with cleanup and spillage.. the ink we used almost had the consistency of waterbased ink... and if you get it on your hands/self during cleanup, you WILL look like you spent the afternoon at the strip club.
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Glitter /shimmer inks are a pain to reclaim I do an extra washing and rinse for those inks...on mesh cts I've used 25 all the way up to 86 mesh, 86 to whole more detail work and still get the glitter to show up.
darryl
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Yeah, I forgot to mention that. If you have a woman in your life, announce as soon as you walk in the door, "We were printing glitter today"
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be real careful with cleanup and spillage.. the ink we used almost had the consistency of waterbased ink... and if you get it on your hands/self during cleanup, you WILL look like you spent the afternoon at the strip club.
Hahahhahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
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Thanks for the help guys, I looked at the heavy mesh I had on a rack in the back I have two 24 mesh screens, and three 45 mesh. I'm going to clean and coat 2 of each just in case, see how this gunk comes out. ;D
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WHOAAA those 25 mesh counts have bigger holes than the screens in my screen enclosed doors here. that's nuts lol
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WHOAAA those 25 mesh counts have bigger holes than the screens in my screen enclosed doors here. that's nuts lol
What did I tell you? ;)
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my wife said man, looks like you can toss gravel through that dam thing hahahaha
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I remember trying to stretch some of that years ago. Trying to get the lock strip in, I slipped and gashed my finger open on the mesh. Nasty stuff all the way around.
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I remember trying to stretch some of that years ago. Trying to get the lock strip in, I slipped and gashed my finger open on the mesh. Nasty stuff all the way around.
Thankfully these were panels. I put them on the newman table took the to 35. Man, coating these is weeeeird. Felt like dragging the coatter against asphault.
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So we learned some lessons with this stuff. First off, the shirts looked awesome! We did two different set ups, one on compression/drifit dance tank tops, and the other on raglan shirts. First, from now on I will know any "glitter" ink really should only be printed on wide open designs, or if there is distress or anything it needs to be large, fine details hurt the use of the ink. One of the set ups, I underbased with Onestroke Versamax white, which was probably the creamest white plastisol I have ever seen. It's super expensive, but a PFP of that stuff gives a 100% solid white through a 156 mesh with no puffing at curing, also that white, they say can go on anything, nylon, poly, ect no additives needed. It also prints without the need of stretch additive. I think did a double stroke of the Onestroke SuperOrange Glitter, very runny and weird knowing it was printing through a 25 mesh, but the 25 is the ticket. That stuff looks awesome after curing!!! I tried a couple without the white ub, doing a PFP of the glitter ink, still looked good, but the white ub makes it pop way more. The glitter ink also stretches awesome with no cracking. Then I tried someones recommendation of an 81 mesh for the raglan design since it had all kinds of small distress. The final came out nice, but the mesh filters out a lot of the glitter so it's a 25 mesh count all the way for that ink or you end up losing 80% of your glitter in the screen. I don't think the detail of that design could have been done on a lower count like 45 or 25 so in the end it still looked really nice, but if the order was 1,000 or more, time would be waisted on the 81 mesh blowing out the stuck glitter. At any rate, very interesting to work with 25 mesh, I have no idea how anyone gets a smooth gloss eom, unless coating new coats of wet emulsion over dried previous coats. Chromablue with 50% solids got a little messy at the bottom of the screen from a 4 coats on the shirt side, 2 coats on the squegee side, and dried with the texture of the mesh still showing. Crazy mesh for sure. coating those screens was like coating asphalt, lol. The dance coach that ordered was super happy and in the end that is all that matters to us right ;D
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Pics!
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That is what face coats are used to accomplish.
I know nothing of any of this but everything I've read in the past seems to lean towards Capillary Film for uber low mesh counts like this. I could see how it would be worth it vs futzing with that.
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After using nearly 1/2 a gallon of Aquasol HS to coat 5 - 24 mesh screens a week or so back, the cost of thick capillary film doesn't seem to be that great, and I'm sure not only a LOT more consistent, but most likely 'dries/is ready' for use a lot faster.
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I don't believe face coats are the best answer. At least not here, but that's just my opinion.
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Hate face coating. Have tried it numerous times and it makes nothing but a mess and unless you're doing really high end stuff I doubt you'd ever notice it helped anything.
I really like the One Stroke products and the guys there. They've got so many versions of ink that it's almost too much but they know their product and will steer you in the right direction when you tell them what you need. I haven't tried the Versamax white but I've used their Bravo Flex which works on all the same type of substrate that the Versamax does but it has some puff in it. I really wish it was more reasonably priced because it's an awesome ink. I have been keeping a gallon of the Bravo around for special occasions but my printer likes it so much he uses it for random jobs that don't need to have the super expensive ink. I have hidden the ink but if I don't take it away immediately after the job is over he's using it on the next one. We're going to start using some of their other colors when we run out of our standards but I'm a big believer in their WOW Black and I have some of the Production Cherry Red that is made for printing directly on poly without the need for an underbase and it worked great. It's not super creamy and easy to print, especially through higher mesh counts but for what it is used for, athletic type prints without underbasing on bleeders...it's awesome. I should probably start my own thread to profess my love of One Stroke but I don't feel like it so deal with it suckers.
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Yeah, I wasn't suggesting that anyone SHOULD face coat... just that is the purpose of such a thing. :)
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My samples from One Stoke came in and man o man I am liking them! I got 4 or 5 whites, their glitter, shimmer, and metallic (to compare the 3), and 3 yellows from different lines to compare opacity etc. Honestly I like everything they sent. Oh, and their flo neon I ordered is fantastic as well. Great opacity without having to p/f/p and no white added so it retains that rich vibrancy.
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I miss them.
20 years ago, I tried the One Stroke inks sold at a now defunct area shirt supplier, California Shirt Sales.
That, back then, was what got me into shimmers rather than the problematic actual metallics from Union. (Union's whites were like chalk and pretty poor then too)
That was the only place out here that sold them, and apparently, One Stroke does not much care about this side of the country and presently has no distribution here!
Unless I really need to, I don't order from the other side of the country.
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Unless I really need to, I don't order from the other side of the country.
Hater! That's ok, anything north of I-10 is Yankee! (you hear that Tance, I'm looking at you!)
Which flourescent did you get? We just picked up a maxopake orange that I'm not thrilled with and we use a traffic green from Union but it has to be underbased and even then it's SO transparent... but it does look good.
We are happy with our Aurora Pink in Maxopaque that we get.
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I have to order from them directly. I believe they only self distribute. It took about 7 days to get my samples, which sucks, but the inks are really nice. I probably will only buy gallons and only for jobs where time isnt an issue. I might stock some standard colors and white depending on how further testing goes.
I REALLY wish they would distribute more widely though.
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I believe it was the EZ Flo Green: http://www.onestrokeinks.com/essentials-ez-flo-color-chart.html (http://www.onestrokeinks.com/essentials-ez-flo-color-chart.html)