TSB
screen printing => Ink and Chemicals => Topic started by: tonypep on October 23, 2014, 02:36:40 PM
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There was an old post on this but heres how we do it
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No REALLY tell us how you do that?
We do this job quite often (south louisiana) and wouldn't mind a pointer or two.
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I hate that blank....
No matter what we printed on it... the camo would bleed right through it. Even with black ink we would get an irridescent shimmer coming through within 2-24 hours.
We ended up printing barrier grey (Rutland) and ink colors on top. That was the ONLY way to stop any migration.
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Do I detect some possible Plasssttisol on that garment? ???
Noooo...
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Camo, meet hi-density print, hi-density print, meet camo :D
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I guess when tony uses plastisol he reeeeeeaaaaaalllly uses plastisol :D
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Sorry; not HD
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I'm guessing...
barrier gray
flash
white
flash
flo orange
white highlight
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i did it once before a year ago:
Barrier Grey
Flash
white (can't recall if it was just a regular plastisol or a white barrier)
flash
4 hits of flo orange (flashing in between each one)...That flo orange is really thin...it took 4 hits to make it look right (to me anyway)
The orange pops more than what you see in the pic.
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I'm guessing...
barrier gray
flash
white
flash
flo orange
white highlight
I make our own "Barrier Gray" and high gloss flo orange. No white. Its a high gloss finish. What you're seeing is the reflection from the camera flash.
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I'm guessing...
barrier gray
flash
white
flash
flo orange
white highlight
I make our own "Barrier Gray" and high gloss flo orange. No white. Its a high gloss finish. What you're seeing is the reflection from the camera flash.
Is it a thick orange or runny/thin? One hit of the orange or multiple?
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Sorry; not HD
I meant hi density in the general sense, not specific print style sense. Overcome the bleeding with thickness of deposit.
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We used to print extra thick with 4XX mesh, high density without the sharp edges. Bulletproof too!
Steve