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screen printing => Ink and Chemicals => Topic started by: Itsa Little CrOoked on November 30, 2014, 01:02:53 AM
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I've tried Kerosene, Low Odor Mineral Spirits, Water-Based Good Off, Citrus Based Adhesive Removers, Ickee Stickee Unstuck, CCI HR-30 Ink degradent, and basically either they didn't work AT ALL, or they were removing a little M&R Blue Paint along with the spray adhesive.
A few years ago I did the same thing to my old Hopkins manual, and I Just put up with a little paint damage. It was a nightmare.
I hate spray tac.
Long live liquid!!
I'd appreciate any success stories you might have.
Stan
Did I mention that I hate spray tac?
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Have you tried Fast Open 957?
http://www.spraywayinc.com/content/fast-open-screen-opener (http://www.spraywayinc.com/content/fast-open-screen-opener)
Stinks, but get's the job done.
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Xenon Xenzu PAC Adhesive remover with an ink dergrader in it, $175 a fiver
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We love Ickee stickee, follow with standard orange spray clean from grocery store.
Buy it in fives. Enviro friendly, pricey, but works well for us.
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Thanks for all the responses.
beanie357. with regards to the Ickee Stickee Unstuck, do you use it full strength? How long do you leave it? It worked, but was one that definitely removed some of the blue paint, but maybe not very much. And I could probably leave it on a little shorter period of time and neutralize it with water pretty quickly to reduce the paint damage.
SURELY there is some solvent out there that ONLY attacks the adhesive...without softening the paint.
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I stand by my WD40 or CRC 5-56, scotch brite pads and a little elbow grease. Once the machine is clean avoid spray adheasive and wipe it down every few days with a rag and WD40.
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CCI Neutralyze
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WD-40
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try screen opener if you have any. It might remove some of the paint, but it also might not. If you get it to work, you can have the whole press cleaned up in no time!
pierre
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try screen opener if you have any. It might remove some of the paint, but it also might not. If you get it to work, you can have the whole press cleaned up in no time!
pierre
And a bonus buzz! Don't inhale.
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I would not go the screen opener route. It can have long term affect on paints and powder coatings
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I would not go the screen opener route. It can have long term affect on paints and powder coatings
And brains!
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Jack Meola from Fortune Fashions who now works at Murakami showed us a cool method to get anything but the paint off a press.
There is a machine that uses dry ice pellets and a gun to blast the gunk off.
http://www.coldjet.com (http://www.coldjet.com)
While not cheap, this preserves the machine, leaves no residue, and takes off all contaminants without solvents.
Al
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Actually looks like a niche business for someone to start. Buy a gun, and clean other folk's presses. Lotsa overspray crap out there.
Gilly? You paying attention?
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I have had contractors use the dry ice blasting to remove paint from fiberglass boats, clean machinery spaces and even blast paint from tanks and machinery spaces to a near white metal or SSPC-7 finish. They even did some large engine blocks for me. Some slick stuff, not as fast as grit but little clean up and no time wasted protecting and covering.
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Ok...one more time:
http://www.realmilkpaint.com/citrus.html (http://www.realmilkpaint.com/citrus.html)
Undiluted d-limonene. Removes everything but the powder coating. Smells like oranges. Non toxic. Super strong.
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Texmar have a citrus based Orange cleaner that works well.
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Do you know what its called? I ended up ordering a gallon of D-Limonene from the Real Milk Paint Company, and although it DOES NOT damage the paint--exactly as Evo promised--I am not too impressed with it's adhesive solvent qualities. That and its $80.00 and change for a gallon with shipping.
It is the best I've tried so far, I suppose, but you've still got to scrub.
A LOT.....
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Do you know what its called? I ended up ordering a gallon of D-Limonene from the Real Milk Paint Company, and although it DOES NOT damage the paint--exactly as Evo promised--I am not too impressed with it's adhesive solvent qualities. That and its $80.00 and change for a gallon with shipping.
It is the best I've tried so far, I suppose, but you've still got to scrub.
A LOT.....
Let it sit for a bit. I've removed very old spray tack with it. Let it soak in for awhile and you shouldn't have to scrub much at all.
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I'll try that.
I like the stuff a lot, I just haven't had an awful lot of success with my dirty old press yet. I used it for some sticker residue just this morning.
Leaving it soak should be easy, since it doesn't seem to flash off quickly.
Thanks for the advice!
Stan
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820 From Easiway. We spray it on and leave it a bit and just wipe clean. It comes cleaner if you add a little heat to the mix. We have a waterbased tekmar gun. It gets that and ink off great.
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Mentioned it before in this thread. Xenon XenPAC is awesome. Just used it on 14 used Newman frames to remove old tape goop and ink, rub it on, let it soak for a few minutes, buff it off and the frames are like new.
Works the same on water based tack, spray tack, and webtack. And doesn't take the paint off the press.
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that xenon stuff is a good price too.
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that xenon stuff is a good price too.
That depends on the shipping price of the day...
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i found that some of the gunk(not spray tak) comes off really well with Krud Kutter.
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The Tekmar product is called TB Orange.
I clean the aluminum parts with this and the painted parts with a nasty oven cleaner that has caustic soda in it.