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screen printing => General Screen Printing => Topic started by: 3Deep on January 14, 2015, 12:10:13 PM
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Alan brought up something in another post that I've tried and dealt with, printing black first in a print order, the reason I wanted to print black first is because it had a lot of halftone and printing first look nicer than printing last after all the the other inks and base was down which raised the print up. Printing the black last I had to use more pressure causing problem, but printing first cause the black to build up on all the other screens very bad, which made me go around 2 times using one flash. So how do you all do this if your printing your black plate first with only one flash and still need a underbase.
print order
1 black
2 underbase
3 flash
4 color
5 color
6 color
7 color
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Pretty much just like that. Most if not all black inks were not designed to be flashed so you may need to stumble on one that works better
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The only thing you need to pull this off is a good WOW black. The majority of black inks on the market are not good for WOW printing but I know of 2 great ones. One isn't quite for sale yet but the other is from One Stroke. It's their WOW black and the price is spectacular for what you get.
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It's art dependent for us. Sometimes the black has to overprint the colors, so black first wouldn't work there, but a good WOW helps that. But for some designs, if the black doesn't have to overprint, then yes, black, then underbase, flash, then the rest.
Steve
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The majority of black inks on the market are not good for WOW printing
Yep.. most blacks are very carbon heavy and in general the most un-developed ink in the entire line.
WOW them and they build up like mad on the back of the base screen, then you go to wipe it off.. yeah
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The only thing you need to pull this off is a good WOW black. The majority of black inks on the market are not good for WOW printing but I know of 2 great ones. One isn't quite for sale yet but the other is from One Stroke. It's their WOW black and the price is spectacular for what you get.
Wilflex Epic Matte black works awesome for us WOW. It glides through high mesh counts so nicely and really does a better job than other's I've tried.
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The only thing you need to pull this off is a good WOW black. The majority of black inks on the market are not good for WOW printing but I know of 2 great ones. One isn't quite for sale yet but the other is from One Stroke. It's their WOW black and the price is spectacular for what you get.
Wilflex Epic Matte black works awesome for us WOW. It glides through high mesh counts so nicely and really does a better job than other's I've tried.
x2, epic matte is the way to go...we do it all the time...
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we use wilflex matte black and whenever ive tried to flash it, the shirt looks like its on fire because of all the smoke that comes off of it. i just try to avoid it as i do not want the warehouse filled with smoke!
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The only thing you need to pull this off is a good WOW black. The majority of black inks on the market are not good for WOW printing but I know of 2 great ones. One isn't quite for sale yet but the other is from One Stroke. It's their WOW black and the price is spectacular for what you get.
Wilflex Epic Matte black works awesome for us WOW. It glides through high mesh counts so nicely and really does a better job than other's I've tried.
x2, epic matte is the way to go...we do it all the time...
x3 for us!
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I got some QCM WOW black and it does the same thing not as bad because its so dang thick, my got to black which I use for everything is WM plastic black cream...might have to get a qt of the epic and try it out.
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Xenon Reg Black. Great printing ink.
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I got some QCM WOW black and it does the same thing not as bad because its so dang thick, my got to black which I use for everything is WM plastic black cream...might have to get a qt of the epic and try it out.
Union PTHF 8000 is a mixing black that is designed for WOW. Covers great and does not build up. Added advantage is that as a mixing ink you can use it for tinting other colors without usual side effects.
About $45 per gallon.
pierre
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Printing black last comes from offset paper printing. They do the order Cyan, Magenta, Yellow and then Black (key} The black is the Key plate. CMY"K" The key plate is the plate that has, in most cases, the most information on it. So in most designs black is the last plate to print. With screen printing the key screen is not always black so black would not always be the last screen.
What I do when setting up a wow is I look at the amount of print each screen has and then put them in order to least to most. Then I take out the white base and put it first. Then I look at all the touching colors and put darkest of the touching color to the end. The darker color going over the lighter color will clean up the edge. Ideally you would flash before printing the touching colors. Then depending on the colors being printed I move the screens around a little more. Reds and yellows and some times greens I try to have as far to the end as possible, or right before a flash. Those colors are stickier and also tend to build up if stepped on too much.
Most jobs can be printed a few different ways but knowing your inks and press will help make the right choices.
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I got some QCM WOW black and it does the same thing not as bad because its so dang thick,
Weird, I use QCM WOW Black almost exclusively and it's always very creamy and not viscous at all, in fact sometimes it's almost not thick enough.
I do admit we pint black last often as it usually traps everything.
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Jumping back to what Jon said about the K plate for offset printing, I was thinking more on the lines of what Inkwork said about printing black last for trapping. @ Ink maybe you and I have different WOW inks LOL cuz our black is thick even after a good stirring.
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Well QCM has had a few gallons here and there that are not exactly "in-spec" after Rutland took over, I have a gallon of Royal blue that we can literally pour onto a screen if we wanted to.
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I have noticed more than a couple of "QCM" ink purchases I have made in the last 2 years that would have never made it out the door before the purchase.... I am pretty sure more than a few of those were not actual QCM formulas either.
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I have noticed more than a couple of "QCM" ink purchases I have made in the last 2 years that would have never made it out the door before the purchase.... I am pretty sure more than a few of those were not actual QCM formulas either.
It's a damn shame too, I liked the way QCM's inks performed. By far my favorite spot color inks and the 158 and 159 were really solid.
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You and me both Alan..... /Sigh
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Yep that glacier 158 was very nice, why even mess with it