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screen printing => Waterbase and Discharge => Topic started by: screenxpress on March 18, 2015, 10:17:46 PM
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Is there such a thing as a pre-mix emulsion for discharge use?
I don't print a lot these days and mixing a diazo emulsion is throwing money down the drain for the short shelf life. I get a lot more mileage out of premix emulsions.
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Saati Red PHU, has been KILLING it in our shop the last two months
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Saati Red PHU, has been KILLING it in our shop the last two months
no diazo added? holds up to HSA?
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Saati Red PHU, has been KILLING it in our shop the last two months
no diazo added? holds up to HSA?
no diazo, exposes super fast. like SUPER fast. the only HSA we've tried so far is the Green Galaxy White and Black. we've had ZERO issues.
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Yup, zero issues. All Green Galaxy Inks, CCI discharge, and Permaset. We use all three. Up to several thousand piece runs. Correct exposure time is a must. No hardener needed.
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Thanks for the replies.
Eric, you're local to me. Do you order that locally?
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Ive been coating with phu for a month now but have yet to use it for WB.
love it for plasty work as the RZ value is awesome and exposes super fast.
Still using a diazo for the WB DC work as the bucket isnt empty yet.
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We've been using HXT for our wb and discharge for a few years now and it's always does great for us, no diazo or hardener. It does take a very very long exposure if you are going to use it for wb prints. I'd like to try this but I had horrible results with PHU blue from saati. I almost think it may have been a bad batch. I was sent a test quart, that did great, I ordered a 5 gallon bucket. The first set of 100 screens we coated all had bad bad exposures. Like anywhere on the screen mesh that may have had a slight stain, like I mean a stain you can barely see, the emulsion wouldnt expose right there and wrinkle up after rinse, it was weird. The Saati guy was kinda harsh saying we didn't know what we were doing, yet here I've never had that happen with ANY other emulsion from the dozen or more that we've used over the years. I'd actually like to have someone else test some screens coated with this batch. If someone wants a 5er of it, all they need to do is send me a ship tag and they can have it for free. Maybe it was just the combination of chems used in our process, I don't know but I've never ran into that weird stuff before.
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What are y'all using to expose the PHU and how long is it taking you? Are you post exposing for dc? How is the detail? I loved Aquasol HVP, but as soon as I started doing more 55lpi work, I was noticing it just would not hold those small dots worth a damn when using dc/wb. Even post exposed and hardened, they were coming off the mesh after 50-100 prints.
SP1400 the screens can go through multiple 100 runs with pressure washing and light scrubbing in between runs without losing a single dot, no post expose and no hardener. It takes forever to expose though due to the diazo, so a faster option that actually can hold detail would rule.
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Thanks for the replies.
Eric, you're local to me. Do you order that locally?
sure do, reecee supply, it's $48 a gallon. and they typically deliver next business day.
Mike Hovey is the sales rep
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What are y'all using to expose the PHU and how long is it taking you? Are you post exposing for dc? How is the detail? I loved Aquasol HVP, but as soon as I started doing more 55lpi work, I was noticing it just would not hold those small dots worth a damn when using dc/wb. Even post exposed and hardened, they were coming off the mesh after 50-100 prints.
SP1400 the screens can go through multiple 100 runs with pressure washing and light scrubbing in between runs without losing a single dot, no post expose and no hardener. It takes forever to expose though due to the diazo, so a faster option that actually can hold detail would rule.
We have an STE II (front bar and back bay), and a Richmond 7K exposure unit. We typically coat everything 1/1 or 2/1.
when we used the sp1400 on our i-image we were exposing for around 60 seconds. on our richmond it was about 100 light units (if i recall correctly, but we only used it for a short amount of time).
With the PHU, we are exposing for 1-8 seconds with the back bay of lights, and at 80-90 on the led front bar, if it has really complex halftones. On our richmond it's around 15-20 light units.
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and with the led you aren't getting any breakdown with dc or loss of small dots?
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and with the led you aren't getting any breakdown with dc or loss of small dots?
once exposure was dialed in, it's been 100% fine. I'll take a picture of a shirt we just printed and post in a minute
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what lpi are you using for dc work, just curious.
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what lpi are you using for dc work, just curious.
usually 55lpi, but it's something we are working on doing better, and going higher.
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Did you ever use or test Aquasol, and if so how would you compare the two?
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I believe we tested it, but never got it to work right. i dn't think we had the exposure set though.
Before the PHU we were using CCI's WR14, and that worked pretty well. Before that the SP1400, then before that the Nova, which was awesome, but we had a bunch of bad batches, and a problem with exposure on it, so we switched!
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O awesome, I currently use the SP1400 and I'm actually testing the WR14 this week. How does the PHU compare when it comes to durability and detail? I know the exposure is tons faster, but I just can't accept issues with detail loss and breakdown.
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WR14 held awesome detail, but we did have issues with breakdowns.
The PHU has been holding fantastic detail and we've had zero issues with breakdown!
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Two years with the PHU and the direct prep is still in a sealed bottle, never used. First they told me to use it every other reclaim, then use it once a month but never even tried it.
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zzzz
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Whoops, found it.
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Whoops, found it.
You talking about the Saati Direct Prep 2 split? (btw, Binky's post didn't make the trip for some reason.)