TSB
screen printing => Waterbase and Discharge => Topic started by: tonypep on March 20, 2015, 01:15:49 PM
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Extremely PMS specific. Slightly flashing the base......one flash ... no bleeding with all those colors touching
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I NEED to learn this.
I currently either do WB DC or plastisol and "never the twain shall meet". I just never have mixed the two and it's waaaay out of my comfort zone.
Does the plastisol adhere reliably to the (clear based) waterbased DC ink?
Is the mesh choice for the UB forgiving?
Is normal powdered ZFS used and at what ratios?
Can you print most any plastisol on top? Without modification?
Do you choke the Underbase?
Is a flash with exterior exhaust required?
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Yes
Yes, somewhat
Yes 6%
Yes
Yes
If you try white DC you will probablyfail
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We've had good luck with this until recently,where we've had to replace a couple of orders. The top ink was coming off terribly in the wash...
Steve
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either a cure issue or too much white in the ubase. 80% base, 20% (or less) white and follow Tony's recipe.
pierre
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Has anyone else had any issues with the plastisol colors getting lighter on top of a DC UB? We haven't had enough of a color shift to bother our customers, but they definitely wouldn't fly for a Pantone match. I'm using CCI U-Base w/ a 2 second flash.
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fyi, if you mess up and put too much white in the base, you can usually heat press them and solve the problem. That is what we did on 400 tanks to save them...they passed the key scratch and wash test fine.
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oh and no on the exhaust flash
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We were using Union's White UB, so we don't know the ratio. More testing, thanks for the guidance
Steve
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we've been doing this for a long time, but started doing it more the past month or so. love it.
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We've had good luck with this until recently,where we've had to replace a couple of orders. The top ink was coming off terribly in the wash...
Steve
As mentioned, too much white/pig in the DC UB is likely culprit.
Also, you need to drive the plasti top colors a little more than you would normally, the DC UB may try to keep it from getting a good mechanical bond around the fibers. Not enough mechanical bond = washout. A little extra pressure not only helps with that but will give the finished print a hand and effect that is darn close to straight discharge.
As far as color/hue shifts, that can happen when DC UB causes the pigs in the plasti on top to migrate. I believe wilflex actually makes PCs that are "non-migrating" but cost a ton. We haven't experienced major issues with this yet.
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Discharge underbase works extremely well for sim process. That is all we do anymore. We have three different base formulas and using two underbases with different formulas you can get really cool results. It is awesome
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I like the DC UB plastisol on top but we don't use it much these days. I've done some testing comparing plastisol base against DC base and the opacity difference is enough to give the nod to plastisol and the difference in the hand of the print isn't enough to declare DC worth the extra effort. With the use of specialized mesh counts we've been able to put down a very bright underbase with plastisol without having the ink deposit that traditionally goes/went with it so as it stands right now plasti UB's are the winner for us. But having said that, this technique might end up being the "go-to" method for the majority of shops in the near future because of it's effectiveness.
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Has anyone ever done DC/white mix the plastisol glow-in-the-dark?
On this one big job I do, to get it out faster I do a DC underbase, white, flash, then glow. It works great and with one flash its really fast. I just hate having to use 3 screens.
Honestly I do the plastisol on top to minimize the amount of glow the job needs. That stuff is not cheap. Local guy wants $100 a quart for the union stuff. I need a better option.
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Riddle me this - would not a longer flash help with color shift? If the discharging process is further along when the plastisol is initially printed, it would seem as though there would less of an effect on the pigments.