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screen printing => Ink and Chemicals => Topic started by: ericheartsu on April 02, 2015, 01:13:39 PM
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We just had a really big account dropped into our lap, and they want to do everything on burn out tees and tanks.
No problem.
Only problem becomes when they want super soft prints, akin to waterbase, but very bright.
Would HSA be ideal for these? Would doing a DC base with really soft plastisol work?
Colors are White and muted red.
any suggestions would be super appreciated!!
thank you!!
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I would think that DC wouldn't work bc the part of the shirt left behind in the burned out spots is the just polly material.?? Don't know, just asking.
Murphy37
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I would think that DC wouldn't work bc the part of the shirt left behind in the burned out spots is the just polly material.?? Don't know, just asking.
Murphy37
my thoughts as well. but i wasn't sure if even just doing it, would dye out the poly enough to make a white highlight pop
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People who like the burnout affect and order that, should be in the camp that they expect this discoloration from poly to cotton. It's what the burnout look is.
With that said, sim process is done all the time like this and with the above in mind.
230 discharge base. (Not sure on what brand).
305 top colors.
I have had great soft hand results with Rutland M3's on top. typically, I don't prefer the Rutland on its own for standard sim process. It's very thin. Thinner than Unions Trutone. I like Trutone better than straight up Rutland M3 because you can do a little more with it. For example, I like inks that are versatile. I added 5-15% soft hand to Unions mix Opaques and they worked like the Trutone but gave me opacity when and where I wanted it. I didn't need to have 5 types of inks. That's not to say that another brand like Wilflex and Union won't be as soft, I just don't know much about the other brands series as it pertains to the soft hand plastisol designed for high end sim process. My experience is also based off of art that is able to be done in 12 colors. When you use less, you need more opacity for vibrancy.
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People who like the burnout affect and order that, should be in the camp that they expect this discoloration from poly to cotton. It's what the burnout look is.
With that said, sim process is done all the time like this and with the above in mind.
230 discharge base. (Not sure on what brand).
305 top colors.
I have had great soft hand results with Rutland M3's on top. typically, I don't prefer the Rutland on its own for standard sim process. It's very thin. Thinner than Unions Trutone. I like Trutone better than straight up Rutland M3 because you can do a little more with it. For example, I like inks that are versatile. I added 5-15% soft hand to Unions mix Opaques and they worked like the Trutone but gave me opacity when and where I wanted it. I didn't need to have 5 types of inks. That's not to say that another brand like Wilflex and Union won't be as soft, I just don't know much about the other brands series as it pertains to the soft hand plastisol designed for high end sim process. My experience is also based off of art that is able to be done in 12 colors. When you use less, you need more opacity for vibrancy.
That makes complete sense. This is pretty simple blocky text. The art is grungy and chewed up, but they also what it to be as bright as it can be, given the material. So I was just looking to see what inks everyone recommended, as i'm gonna try some manual tests next week!
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For my shop discharge has been hit and miss on burnouts....... HSA all the way here for burnouts.... A lot depends if the client wants the burnout area of the garment to have full coverage or partial where you can still see through it. We have jobs where the client wants to retain the burnout look of the garment while other clients want us to cover up the burnout portion 100% so it looks solid
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Maybe not an option for eric, but we have done some great looking sublimation on burnouts.
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For my shop discharge has been hit and miss on burnouts....... HSA all the way here for burnouts.... A lot depends if the client wants the burnout area of the garment to have full coverage or partial where you can still see through it. We have jobs where the client wants to retain the burnout look of the garment while other clients want us to cover up the burnout portion 100% so it looks solid
this is exactly what i needed to know. Client is ok with the burnout portion of the goods, but would like the rest to be pretty bold.
HSA is where i was going to start, so i'm glad it will work!
any special base or additives Danny?
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update on this:
have spent some time testing, and so far our best option has been doing HSA Barrier Base, with two hits of White after it.
I'm going to try again today, but this time i'm going to add the Warp Speed additive to the ink, see if that makes a difference!
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Believe it or not but a 150-S base with a triple duro squeegee work very well. Hit it with a smoothing screen then a 225-S and it is super soft and 100% opaque. No voids in the print either. Its all about the deposit of the base. We have printed thousands upon thousands of them this way. Super soft with very little hand.