TSB
screen printing => Ink and Chemicals => Topic started by: ZooCity on April 21, 2015, 03:35:37 PM
-
We're trying out a sample of the IC legacy white today. Out of the bucket, stirred in a tornado mixer and cycled through a few dozen prints, the ink is too short bodied for automatic printing. It's 70 some degrees today so temp and the thixotropic nature of the ink isn't the concern. We don't like to modify inks here but this one requires it. We are going to try adding some Wilflex viscosity buster at 1-2% and/or cutting it with the longer bodied Quick White.
I have to assume that this ink must be modified to use on an auto. If I'm correct, how is everyone modifying their IC legacy white? If not, how are you printing it out of the bucket?
-
Didn't Danny say they have to modify it too? I don't think he mentioned how...
Not an auto printer and don't use that ink, but it does get mentioned a lot so people are definitely making it work I would think.
-
We use Legacy straight out of the bucket. We run it all day on our auto with no issues. ???
-
Yep, I knew going into it that Danny mods his, figured others are doing the same and I know there are some wilflex shops on here (we're pretty much all wilflex for plasti) that are using the legacy white as an alternative to quick, so I wanted to put a feeler out.
King, the ink climbs our winged floodbars like mad, which is the main issue my prod manager is bringing up with it, you don't experience this?
-
If I remember correctly, we didn't care for Legacy that much either, I remember it being very stiff. we don't modify inks, especially white simply due to the fact of repeatability..... we use IC Knock out 7007 and 7005 as our main whites...absolutely beautiful inks. We were all Wilflex but IC is it across the board...
-
we experienced the same thing with the climbing and the Legacy white... pretty much ruled it out right away.
-
Yep, I knew going into it that Danny mods his, figured others are doing the same and I know there are some wilflex shops on here (we're pretty much all wilflex for plasti) that are using the legacy white as an alternative to quick, so I wanted to put a feeler out.
King, the ink climbs our winged floodbars like mad, which is the main issue my prod manager is bringing up with it, you don't experience this?
No, we don't. This just came off a 450pc. run just minutes ago.
We switched from Street Fighter to Legacy bc it was creamier and easier to print.
-
huh, maybe temp at our locations?....although 'creamy' isn't a descriptor I would use to describe legacy white given the little bit of time I've had with it. This is the non-phthatlate? That could well be the difference.
We added 2% viscosity buster and it behaved with the flood. Out of the can it was literally lifting up the ink on the flood bar. I like short bodied inks but there needs to be that balance.
-
I just got into a new 43 gal bucket of legacy after going through around 60 gallons of it in the last month. Chris is right as it won't flood worth a crap on our autos here without modifying it. We do mod the ink on our end but I'm working with the ink guys on some re formulations so this will not be needed in the future. I have some test gallons that actually shipped today so I should be testing those before the weeks over. Hopefully we can solve the flood issue without creating another issue. We do not modify our ink with a reducer, viscosity buster, or base but we use a super long bodied white to get the legacy to flood. The white we are using was a special white that I had made last year which we are all out of. I no longer work with the company who produced the white for us, hence the reason I'm now working on the re formulation to get this to flood properly as we are out of our long bodied special white. Once we get the ink up to working temp(legacy does not work well unless its mixed well and warm) we are running our print speeds from 7-10 on our m&r presses. I have ran several jobs where we are running the squeegee blade as fast as the print head will allow. That has been the key for me here, warm the ink and run it super fast.
-
That answered my question I was about to email you about Danny. Glad to hear you're working on a reformulation with IC.
I did some testing at the end of the day with it and found that it does indeed respond very well to higher print speed. Our motivation to use it stems from quick white having two issues: the cratering in the UB at times and poor performance of certain top colors when printing wow. We need to get more ink in (supplier sent a quart...) to actually make a call on it.
-
we run it everyday with no problems, creamiest ink I have ever used with good opacity. Printing 1600 piece job today and it NEVER climbs anything.
-
We sell a ton of the legacy white and haven't had this problem. It's so creamy you can poor up a 5 gallon paul into singles with no problem.
-
It doesn't climb in my shop out of the bucket. The last few jobs i have been adding some reducer to get the speed of the ink up and get a smoother finish. Over all its doing really well. Only been using it for a week so my experience with it is limited.
-
We're trying out a sample of the IC legacy white today. Out of the bucket, stirred in a tornado mixer and cycled through a few dozen prints, the ink is too short bodied for automatic printing. It's 70 some degrees today so temp and the thixotropic nature of the ink isn't the concern. We don't like to modify inks here but this one requires it. We are going to try adding some Wilflex viscosity buster at 1-2% and/or cutting it with the longer bodied Quick White.
I have to assume that this ink must be modified to use on an auto. If I'm correct, how is everyone modifying their IC legacy white? If not, how are you printing it out of the bucket?
Alex: There was another post/thread a couple of weeks ago on TSB from an ink manufacturer describing their recommended method to perform a “side-by-side" or "apples-to-apple” comparison between two different white inks. While the testing method outlined had some merit, a number of printers commented that the test didn’t provide a complete picture of how a specific ink would perform in a production setting. The reality (as I see it) is that all of the major screen-printing ink manufacturers produce inks that perform really well in some areas, some things that they are ok at, and some performance characteristics that might be considered marginal.
In any case, it’s likely that the printer might have to change some parts of their process to include; Screen Mesh Selection, Stencil Profile, On-Press Set-up, Squeegee and Flood-bar settings to optimize the performance of any specific ink. When I read this post and see that you are having performance issues with the International Coatings Legacy White, and then there are other printers posting that they are having great results. Which has me thinking that there might be some other issues with process variables going on, that are impacting the results that you are getting. I am going to forward this post to the President and the Director Of Sales & Marketing at International Coatings and see if I can get them to join us as contributors at TSB and to provide a response to this post.
-
Thanks Peter, I'm Chris, not Alex though. I know it's confusing with all the users here. Manufacturer input is always great. We do examine variables with testing new inks.
-
Chris,
I know your aware of this but I just want to say it. I have printed over 5 inks in my shop as my go to ink. I have also printed alot of many of them. Each one can be printed right out of the bucket. Now with that said, they can not all be printed with the same angle, pressure and even squeegee selection. inks that I hated at first, Became my favorite after figuring out the right adjustments needed.
For example Quick white you need more control over your pressure and angle and a softer squeegee to print with well. The legacy white is the opposite you can print hard and slow with a hard (any} squeegee and and get that one to look fine.
Now the climbing issue is a hard one. I hate when that happens. This is not something you can fix with angle, pressure, speed or anything on press. The ink has to be modified some way to fix it. Now if they is the only problem with that ink it maybe worth the effert to add and mix a little reducer, base, another white ink or what ever to make it work.
I honestly want my white ink to be too think and hard to print out of the bucket. I want this so I can modify depending on what I am printing.
-
I went through a 5 of legacy sometime in the last year and it climbed like crazy out of the bucket. Moved on try something else but would try the legacy again if I could keep it on the screen.
-
Totally agree ScreenedGear (Jon right?) we swap blades, mess with angle, speed and pressure for not just each ink but each substrate, each mesh count it's going through. And absolutely, different whites like different print speeds and that alone can be a major factor in white ink selection given the impact on production time. The flood issues were the only real concern so far, the ink prints well, performs well overall and appears to have the potential to eliminate the two issues we face with Quick in production- the 'craters' in the base and poor wow performance of some top colors. Could very well be worth it to add a little viscosity buster or some modifier to Legacy to get that flood where we need it. Heck, I'll even toss it out there that if we were to use another squeegee to hard flood v. a metal bar, a la Doctor J, this ink might be just perfect out of the bucket. More testing is the only way to truly evaluate.
-
Thanks Peter, I'm Chris, not Alex though. I know it's confusing with all the users here. Manufacturer input is always great. We do examine variables with testing new inks.
Sorry Chris, that was my bad!
Peter
-
I'll even toss it out there that if we were to use another squeegee to hard flood v. a metal bar, a la Doctor J, this ink might be just perfect out of the bucket.
I'd be lost without our winged flood bars here... I barely remember what carding is at this point...
what I don't get is what some of us are doing wrong or right to make the ink flood correctly... some here say it works great flooding some says it doesn't (I'm in the doesn't camp, it would climb the flood bar so bad we'd have to push it back down after 30-40 shirts)... the flood on an auto seems like the most basic consistent thing (other than flood speed) that we can have...
-
Batch inconsistencies (lots of variables here), heat in transit, Potential angle of flood bar, production/printing temp of the ink.... that and more go into why batch to batch we - the printer - can see differences on press.
I understand they have 2 production facilities, but I do not know if they produce screen printing plastisol at both..... 2 sites give you double the chance for variance.
-
Our experience with legacy has been, it climbs the squeegee like none other. Even with wings it would get stuck almost hovering above the screen caught in between the flood bar and the squeegee, without moding it. Legacy seems to be a very shot body ink with a few things not added to it, that I like & don't like, I feel it has no blowing/puff agents ( I'm good with that ) it also seems to not have much or any stretch additive ( I don't like ) as I feel this leads to pour wash fastness over time. It also seems to have a plasticizer that separates easy & is a bit on the low cure side, we had some strange results bc of this, I feel. Do not leave this ink sitting on a designated white squeegee, clean it off after evey time, or at the very least at the end of the day.
Murphy37
-
Weird--we were just running 2K with it yesterday, and the ink actually came down OFF the squeegee here.
Brand new batch though, came off the truck last week.
-
huh. If it's batch inconsistencies that's bad news.
Very much agree that it could use a little more stretch properties, just on first blush, we only ran one job with the little qt we had, gallon coming in to give it another whirl.
-
About transport heat and batch inconsistencies. It can be an issue.
Enough so that to help reduce the product of being seen in a bad light, some salesmen insist that I get a full gallon as a sample because it is less likely to have been affected by temperature than a pint or even a quart.
-
It does seem to be VERY thixotropic. What Underbase mentioned is interesting too--the plasticizers remind me of Trutone, but maybe not quite as aggressive. Sets up and loosens up kind of similar, IMO, but easier on squeegees.
IME it would hang out on the sq/fl the first couple pulls, but then will pull down off of the flood and squeegee as it printed.
Was in a hurry when I mentioned that, but I should say it's definitely a 'different' printing ink from the WM/QCM/old 711 I've printed much more of.
-
I'm using legacy in a non-climate controlled environment. When I'm using it during the winter months, I really have to have them pallets warm and keep it in a room with a space heater to print with it but it's a printers dream in the warmer months. It floods like a dream and I really think with a little finessing that this would be the white I would attempt a 1 hit white.
-
Maybe it's a supplier issue. We've been using Legacy now for well over a year and it rocks! We order it from Spot color supply, it's in International Coating's EOM 5 Gal buckets so it's not out of a bulk pour down by a second or third party I would guess. I opened a new 5er mid winter and it was as loose and cream as it is now that it's hot. I run it through 280 and 305's for high light's with a color or two printing after it and no stick issues. Sometimes I may take a quart out and add a little flow additive or reducer it the run will be a few hundred pieces to avoid any, "chance" of build up of it as a highlight, but other than that, I've never needed to modify it. If put enough in your screen you shouldn't have any flood issues, especially once it gets moving. Someone will have to come up with something better to make me switch it's the bomb, High opacity, great UB for at least 4 wet on wet colors on top before another flash. I know a couple guys here that use it, Dirkdiggler showed me a pic today of a 10 color I would assume UB is legacy and he ran that sweet print 1 revolution 2 flashes. I know I've had issues ordering the same brand of products through other distributors and it not being exact, I'm wondering if this could be an issue. It goes far too lol. I don't think I've seen 5 gals of white last as long as Legacy so far for me.
-
Batch consistency is the issue.
Lot#: 1401023NP Thick, caulk-like, exhibits aforementioned flooding issues, needs reducer/viscosity buster/etc.
Lot#: 1503105NP Creamy, smooth, very similar to Quick White if not improved in it's creaminess.
Explains the varying experiences with this ink.
I trust Nazdar is not doing anything to the ink in handling to create the difference, it's most likely coming into to them inconsistently batch to batch.
Funny we had all this conversation about what each other might be doing differently, "right" or "wrong", shop climate and advice to change other variables but for the most part it appears we all used different inks sold as the same. The first batch (sample) we received was not useable out of the bucket. Next batch is totally different and looks great.
-
That stinks. Got out of IC's 711 years ago because of batch inconsistencies.
Then again, could still be handling and not Nazdar's fault--you never know what happened to that ink if it's going UPS or Fedex...
-
I have run 10 gallons of it and it was great in opacity compared to others (I have tried a lot of whites, especially on our auto work).
It keeps coming to mind due to its extremely fast flash and high opacity. I didn't have much flooding issues what so ever with it, actually don't really have that with any (SFLB2, Miami Superior, Triangle Phoenix, Triangle Pearl, Wilflex Amazing, a few others from Wilfex ). The only one I can think I ever had a flood issue with was QCM and noticed it right away manually printing.
I may go back to it after going through my last 5 gallons of Phoenix I have been sitting on.
-
Yes, inconsistent ink is a drag. Usable though, I used to cut half of each bucket of qcm glacier white with the next so the shift wasn't so abrupt. You can also mod the off batches to suit. No room for that now though.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
-
Batch consistency is the issue.
Lot#: 1401023NP Thick, caulk-like, exhibits aforementioned flooding issues, needs reducer/viscosity buster/etc.
Lot#: 1503105NP Creamy, smooth, very similar to Quick White if not improved in it's creaminess.
Explains the varying experiences with this ink.
I trust Nazdar is not doing anything to the ink in handling to create the difference, it's most likely coming into to them inconsistently batch to batch.
Funny we had all this conversation about what each other might be doing differently, "right" or "wrong", shop climate and advice to change other variables but for the most part it appears we all used different inks sold as the same. The first batch (sample) we received was not useable out of the bucket. Next batch is totally different and looks great.
Good morning! Not sure if this info has been relayed to International Coatings? I will forward accordingly.
SourceOne does not repack this product. We purchase in fives and ones and resell. Many times the viscosity stability issues are directly related to heat in transit, although it is pretty early in the year for that to happen. Talk to anyone in Texas from the massive heat wave about 5- years ago? Every ink manufacturer was having issues with white ink starting to thicken (gel) under heat). Whites are more prone to this due to the high solids content (TIO2), as well as the lower gelation temps required for fast flashing. It is a bit of the tail wagging the dog!
Real numbers: A few years ago, I took a bucket of ink, put in in my trunk in Atlanta, GA in August at 8am. Came outside at 1pm -- 95F air temp. Trunk temp was 135F. Bucket temp was 155F. Had a nice boat anchor.
-
Batch consistency is the issue.
Lot#: 1401023NP Thick, caulk-like, exhibits aforementioned flooding issues, needs reducer/viscosity buster/etc.
Lot#: 1503105NP Creamy, smooth, very similar to Quick White if not improved in it's creaminess.
Explains the varying experiences with this ink.
I trust Nazdar is not doing anything to the ink in handling to create the difference, it's most likely coming into to them inconsistently batch to batch.
Funny we had all this conversation about what each other might be doing differently, "right" or "wrong", shop climate and advice to change other variables but for the most part it appears we all used different inks sold as the same. The first batch (sample) we received was not useable out of the bucket. Next batch is totally different and looks great.
Good morning! Not sure if this info has been relayed to International Coatings? I will forward accordingly.
SourceOne does not repack this product. We purchase in fives and ones and resell. Many times the viscosity stability issues are directly related to heat in transit, although it is pretty early in the year for that to happen. Talk to anyone in Texas from the massive heat wave about 5- years ago? Every ink manufacturer was having issues with white ink starting to thicken (gel) under heat). Whites are more prone to this due to the high solids content (TIO2), as well as the lower gelation temps required for fast flashing. It is a bit of the tail wagging the dog!
Real numbers: A few years ago, I took a bucket of ink, put in in my trunk in Atlanta, GA in August at 8am. Came outside at 1pm -- 95F air temp. Trunk temp was 135F. Bucket temp was 155F. Had a nice boat anchor.
Agree. Temperature change plays a huge role with inks. During the winter months we get calls saying inks are too thick, and in extreme heat same type calls. That summer he speaks in Texas of we couldn't order in low cure additive, because by the time I got it they were bricks, and door props. I also learned that summer the hard way... Do not store your spot gun in hot areas of your shop with spot fluid in it! We replaced guns that would last only days before breaking, the vapor temperature of those chemicals is low and the gas was eating the internal components.
-
Though recognizing the danger of getting a little more off track from the ICwhite ink inconsistency issue, it's very interesting that the vapors of the same fluid that the spotting gun usually uses, was causing damage.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Batch consistency is the issue.
Lot#: 1401023NP Thick, caulk-like, exhibits aforementioned flooding issues, needs reducer/viscosity buster/etc.
Lot#: 1503105NP Creamy, smooth, very similar to Quick White if not improved in it's creaminess.
Explains the varying experiences with this ink.
I trust Nazdar is not doing anything to the ink in handling to create the difference, it's most likely coming into to them inconsistently batch to batch.
Funny we had all this conversation about what each other might be doing differently, "right" or "wrong", shop climate and advice to change other variables but for the most part it appears we all used different inks sold as the same. The first batch (sample) we received was not useable out of the bucket. Next batch is totally different and looks great.
Good morning! Not sure if this info has been relayed to International Coatings? I will forward accordingly.
SourceOne does not repack this product. We purchase in fives and ones and resell. Many times the viscosity stability issues are directly related to heat in transit, although it is pretty early in the year for that to happen. Talk to anyone in Texas from the massive heat wave about 5- years ago? Every ink manufacturer was having issues with white ink starting to thicken (gel) under heat). Whites are more prone to this due to the high solids content (TIO2), as well as the lower gelation temps required for fast flashing. It is a bit of the tail wagging the dog!
Real numbers: A few years ago, I took a bucket of ink, put in in my trunk in Atlanta, GA in August at 8am. Came outside at 1pm -- 95F air temp. Trunk temp was 135F. Bucket temp was 155F. Had a nice boat anchor.
Agree. Temperature change plays a huge role with inks. During the winter months we get calls saying inks are too thick, and in extreme heat same type calls. That summer he speaks in Texas of we couldn't order in low cure additive, because by the time I got it they were bricks, and door props. I also learned that summer the hard way... Do not store your spot gun in hot areas of your shop with spot fluid in it! We replaced guns that would last only days before breaking, the vapor temperature of those chemicals is low the gas was eating the internal components.
The good news is that winter viscosity build is a "false" body and can be broken down with shear/temp. Summer aging -- well that is irreversible. The resins swell under heat and absorb plasticizer (gel/cure process). No amount of shear will return it. Some folks add reducers, BUT that does NOT change the now larger particle size, thus potential issues with clearing mesh openings.
-
It could well be transport issues but I have to be frank, we've never seen this with Quick White over many years of all kinds of weather.
-
Chris:
How different are the flash times?
If the Legacy is faster - That could easily be the base issue. Those resins swell at lower temps....
Let us know.
-
Hello Group, maybe I can add a little info to this engaging conversation. Starting my career some 38 years ago as a printer, I can certainly relate to all the discussion on controlling the variables. For the past 25 years I’ve been working for textile ink manufactures. First with the big R and now with IC. There have been many changes in textile inks over the years. The inks we worked with in the 70’s & 80’s were usually impossible to print without modification, especially HP whites and HP colors. Due to the high pigment loading in whites and other HP inks, they tend to age over time and become thicker. The solid ingredients start to absorb the liquids and the ink becomes thicker and stickier. You can add a modifier and improve the printability, but it will never be the same as it was when it was fresh. Yes white ink just like bread is better when it’s fresh. This can help explain some of the variety of comments related to this topic.
As example; I believe its Chris, ZooCity that is having a hard time printing with a sample of Legacy Lot# 1401023. This sample is 16 months old made in January of 2014. Next he received Lot# 1503105. This ink is 1 month old manufactured in March 2015. In reading through all the input from others I believe if we were to examine the age of the ink it may help explain the different experiences. If your distributor sells a fair amount of any ink they will turn this inventory several times a year. This means you will always receive fresh ink. Quarts which are often used as samples can sit on the shelf for longer periods. Gallons, pails and drums usually move within a couple of months. Ink companies don’t usually keep inventory for more that month as we make several batches of white a week just to keep up with demand.
There can also be issues as Rob mentioned if the ink is introduced to heat during transit. Heat aging is even harder to modify and at some point renders the ink unusable.
Not to say that all ink companies are perfect. We can also make mistakes. I hope that we can and do work with anyone having issues and help them to resolve the variables of printing plastisol inks.
-
Glad to see you here Kent. What you say about old stock with white and small containers even being worse, really puts the small shop or part-time printer in a little bit of a bind. For instance, I have a half a gallon of low bleed white that's well over a year old. I just don't need low bleed ink nearly as much as I need cotton. The best I can do, is store it in relatively good conditions.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Hello Group, maybe I can add a little info to this engaging conversation. Starting my career some 38 years ago as a printer, I can certainly relate to all the discussion on controlling the variables. For the past 25 years I’ve been working for textile ink manufactures. First with the big R and now with IC. There have been many changes in textile inks over the years. The inks we worked with in the 70’s & 80’s were usually impossible to print without modification, especially HP whites and HP colors. Due to the high pigment loading in whites and other HP inks, they tend to age over time and become thicker. The solid ingredients start to absorb the liquids and the ink becomes thicker and stickier. You can add a modifier and improve the printability, but it will never be the same as it was when it was fresh. Yes white ink just like bread is better when it’s fresh. This can help explain some of the variety of comments related to this topic.
As example; I believe its Chris, ZooCity that is having a hard time printing with a sample of Legacy Lot# 1401023. This sample is 16 months old made in January of 2014. Next he received Lot# 1503105. This ink is 1 month old manufactured in March 2015. In reading through all the input from others I believe if we were to examine the age of the ink it may help explain the different experiences. If your distributor sells a fair amount of any ink they will turn this inventory several times a year. This means you will always receive fresh ink. Quarts which are often used as samples can sit on the shelf for longer periods. Gallons, pails and drums usually move within a couple of months. Ink companies don’t usually keep inventory for more that month as we make several batches of white a week just to keep up with demand.
There can also be issues as Rob mentioned if the ink is introduced to heat during transit. Heat aging is even harder to modify and at some point renders the ink unusable.
Not to say that all ink companies are perfect. We can also make mistakes. I hope that we can and do work with anyone having issues and help them to resolve the variables of printing plastisol inks.
Kent: Welcome to the TSB Community. It's great to have industry veterans participate in the dialogue on the Boards. Looking forward to future posts from you and the team at International Coatings
-
Welcome Kent and that's a very informative post. I was aware of some type of shelf life to plastisol but nothing along the lines of 14months out from production the ink losing many of it's better properties and gaining some unfavorable ones.
The nerd in me wants to know- is this plasticizer leaching out primarily? Or is the white making undesirable bonds with the plastisol base?
Colin, there's scant left of the qt samp and it was modded with a small amount of viscosity buster so I don't think we can get a good comparison there. I guess I can put a little cup of this fresh white ink aside and see what happens in 14mo.....
-
I wanted to add a completely interesting bit of info on this discussion with this ink........ As most of you know I've had to modify my legacy white in order to flood on the auto since I began testing it. I've gone through around 80 gallons with most of those being different batches of 5's. I never could get the ink to flood correctly unless I modified it. Here's where this gets interesting, we installed our first Sroque machine end of last week so I've printed on it a couple full days now. I took the same unmodified legacy white ink that I could NEVER get to flood, and gave it a shot on the sroque machine. Straight out of the bucket the ink that would not flood on my m&r machines is now flooding damn near perfectly on my sroque machine. I believe a lot has to do with the design of the sroque floodbar but I thought it was very interesting that the same exact ink that I could never get to flood right on my ch3 or diamondback now floods like it should......I just found this super interesting and figured you guys would as well....
-
That is super interesting. The profile of a winged flood can't vary that much seeing as it has to be straight up to orient the wings correctly. Maybe the material and/or coating?
-
I believe a lot has to do with the design of the sroque floodbar
can you post a pic of the sroque flood bar next to the m&r floodbar?
we tried with m&r 'standard' floodbars, a workhorse chopper flood bar, and winged floodbars... interestingly enough, the worst was with the winged floodbars... I'm guessing because the wings gave extra 'area' for the ink to grab on to... it would quite literally lift the entire block of ink up with the floodbar.
-
A lot of this could have to do with how you set your flood bars on the white head--I tend to push them in at least a little against the screen--if they are above it by any margin, that will change how it floods, in some cases quite a bit...
Zoo--as far as the ink shelf life goes, I have been told more than once that the resins will absorb plasticizer, increasing the viscosity of the ink as it gets old. It usually gets reduced, and is good enough to print easily, but is not of the same quality as fresh ink.
Hopefully the answer is wrong:since this is the internet, someone should very nearly instantly correct me. :)
-
Resins need a heat source to absorb Plasticisers.
Example: If you are in the mid west in summer with average temps in your shop over 100 each day for a string of days..... that can be considered a heat source, but it can take months for it to become an issue.
If you are in the pacific northwest and it gets to maybe 90 for a few weeks each year.... that is not a heat source.
Also, this will only be a potential issue with FAST FLASHING whites and maybe low cure inks. I do not have any real info on heat stability on low cure inks.
Remember, you have plastisol that has been sitting around for years that is still very usable.
-
I didn't catch this right away--good work! It only took an hour. ;)
Interesting points on the amount of heat being key.
I was always under the impression that heat was heat, and no matter what temp you were at (maybe only above freezing,) that it would increase in viscosity at rest and printing--eventually.