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screen printing => Screen Making => Topic started by: TCT on April 27, 2015, 07:59:31 PM
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So somewhere along the line I think a roll of our 150 "LX" mesh got mislabeled "S" mesh. I don't know for sure, but the LX mesh almost seems to have a sheen to it usually, more than the S I think. I could be wrong and it is the other way around!
Anyone know a way to decipher between the two if they are side by side?
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That fancy cheap microscope that I got fussed at for hating on. ;)
Lx should have the knuckles welded together.
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also, all the LX mesh I've seen was white. . .
pierre
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That fancy cheap microscope that I got fussed at for hating on. ;)
Lx should have the knuckles welded together.
Used that microscope like a SOB, but I can't tell the difference.... Maybe if I use my welding mask it will be clearer? :P
also, all the LX mesh I've seen was white. . .
pierre
That's the other kicker, the S mesh bolt I had was white as well!:-
The weird thing is there is no printed info along the outer edges like the other S meshes I have...
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Maybe spring for the $9 microscope next time. ;)
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I don't mean to derail the thread (split it off if necessary), but it seems like a reasonable place for the question:
How does 150-LX stack up against 150-S? We've been in the 150-S camp for 6 or 7 years now and we absolutely love it...but I have been curious about the LX's performance and durability.
Screw it, I'm just going to order some to test...but any feedback would be appreciated.
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OK guys, here is the difference in Murakami S Mesh vs LX-S Mesh. The "S" is the US version of thread diameter. The rest of the world uses numbers, so a 150/s =150/48 micron thread and an LX 150/48 and 150/48 micron thread both have the same thread diameters. The difference is in the construction of the thread and the mesh knuckles. Murakami/Smartmesh 150/48 is our standard S mesh with a polyester thread, typically in yellow. The LX 150/48 is a different thread construction. It has a polyester inner core, and a soft nylon outer core. When heat set at the knuckles the threads weld into each other so much that it almost looks like one thread passes through the other. This flatter mesh knuckle reduces the RZ value on the squeegee side making a smoother surface. This allows for slightly less squeegee pressure than a 150/48 Polyester (yellow mesh) and can print slightly more opaque than the 150/48 poly mesh.
Murakami LX mesh will print slightly better than 150/48 poly mesh due to this reduced RZ value and will print white base plates easier since the thread can compress during printing. The difference in opacity is slightly better, but the quality of the shirt you print on also has an impact on good opaque base plates.
Murakami LX also resists screen tears better, but since it is softer you can wear through the mesh where the squeegee makes contact with the screen if off contact is too high or you don't round off the ends of your squeegees. There is no halation with this clear mesh unlike opaque white mesh.
PM me if you need more info.
Alan
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Here is my best attempt at photos? Will these help at all?(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/28/23275d8edaf241471a98c899d0992b08.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/28/d32e508f3da1643ec885f02af857762e.jpg)
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Based on what appears to be a roundness to the knuckles, I'm gonna go with LX.
Just a guess of course.
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Aaaand I may be completely wrong on that. Here's a picture of LX mesh (from the Murakami website) to make things more confusing.
(http://murakamiscreen.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/LX-Mesh-300x182.jpg)
PS - LX mesh definitely does have much more of a sheen to it in my experience. It's almost silvery.
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Evertime the squeegee edge go over mesh knuckles, there is a pressure drop in ink delivery volume. This also happens dead center of the mesh opening where the opening is tightest. The LX mesh eliminates one (and both because it's a thinner thread diameter) of the pressure drop because of the eliminated knuckles jitter that the squeegee has to contend with during the print stroke.. So the elimination of the mesh knuckles, will increase ink volume or maybe ink deposit over regular s mesh.
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That sir looks like LX mesh to me.
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I ordered a small bolt of LX. I can't wait to try this stuff out.
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Looks like it's calendared from what I can make out so I'm with Colin - LX. How about stick a mesh determiner on some regular 150 s and move it around a few ways and then see if it's a bit different on this mesh.
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Thanks guys! My thoughts were it was LX also. It has a different "sheen" to it.
Zoo- I tried that, it was super hard to tell any differences with the mesh determiner deal.... Keep in mind though I am short on patients so maybe if I took 4 seconds instead of 3 seconds I could of figured it out!
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Oh, ok I have something- I've noticed that lx feels kind of, I don't know, "slippery yet stiff" (ewwwww....) compared to regular S. Loads and captures very differently in a roller frame for instance.
Sorry to hear the doctor gig isn't going well.
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Sorry to hear the doctor gig isn't going well.
;D
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LX Mesh uses a different type of thread than regular Murakami S mesh.
If you like S mesh, this is one step up in terms of print opacity due to less squeegee pressure needed.
Key is to dial in off contact to minimal amount needed. Helps to put a thick screen tape, (not cloth) landing pads on the inside of the screen where the squeegee lands. Just make sure it is back enough so the flood bar doesn't hit it on the flood stroke.
I have found a slight increase in angle and just a little bit slower print stroke can increases opaciity. A little bit extra angle also helps prevent the squeegee from digging into the mesh at the beginning of the stroke. In demos I back the squeegee pressure off until it won't print. Then take the pressure down slowly until it prints. Like icing a cake, lay it on top. Air pressure knob on some presses fine tunes the process.
Avoid heavy squeegee pressure like a 110T, it won't give you good results. You can experiment with duro. 70 triples accept the most angle. 55 and 65 with modified inks can help get slightly brighter base plates. For halftones I still like a triple 65 or 70.
Inks, shirt quality and weave all play a part in how opaque you can get a print.
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Sorry to hear the doctor gig isn't going well.
;D
Yes, that was thanks to spell check. Doesn't help all that much if I don't know the proper way to spell it in the first place!
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Sorry to hear the doctor gig isn't going well.
Too funny. I'm so spelling/grammar-anal, I thought I was the only one that noticed that.
It was a perfectly good word, just in the wrong context. I have an excuse. My mother used to force me to participate in spelling bees as a kid in Catholic School. By the way, speaking of 'Mom', she just turned 100 on the 14th.
Here's something I posted long ago and I'm sure there are lots more that could be added, lol.
Social Screen Printing English/Jargon 101
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They're - Contraction meaning "They Are".
[Use] - They're going to lose money on that job.
Their - Pronoun - Possessive.
[Use] - This is their artwork.
There - Adverb - place
[Use] - The ink is over there.
You're - Contraction meaning "You Are".
[Use] - You're pricing that job too low.
Your - Pronoun - Possessive.
[Use] - Is this your ink fingerprint on those $40 Nike shirts?
Than - Conjunction between comparatives or choices.
[Use] - I'd rather screen print than work for the man.
Then - Adverb.
[Use] - Print this job, then you can go home.
Two - Number.
[Use] - Two screens should do it.
To - Preposition.
[Use] - Take these screens to the press and set up.
Too - Adverb - Also or excess.
[Use] - I have too many jobs to print.
Advice - Noun.
[Use] - Take my advice and stop bidding jobs so low.
Advise - Verb.
[Use] - I would advise you to run from that customer.
And a more recent addition -
Patience - Noun - The capacity to accept or tolerate delay, trouble, or suffering without getting angry or upset
[Use] - He has the patience to deal with that customer
Patients - Noun - a person receiving or registered to receive medical treatment
[Use] - The doctor wants to give printed shirts to all his patients
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Ok, here is something that you guys will get a kick out of, most people do...
From when I was born up until I was maybe 24 when she retired, my mom was a high school English teacher. I can't spell in english to save my life!!!!
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Just to redirect it back to the original question... Yes... The LX has that 'sheen' to it... The standard S mesh does not...