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screen printing => Waterbase and Discharge => Topic started by: Rockers on June 04, 2015, 08:19:02 AM
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And that is probably still an understatement.
The cool gray 10 and cool gray 5 we have mixed today with CCI base and what ever else goes into them looked cured on the tee more like some beige or earth tone colors. Used CCI white instead of the mixing white and around 4% activator. Now I`m wondering if 4% is too much for grays or if I have to use lot less of the white. But in that case I would not know how to create a close pantone match as the mixed ink in the pot does not all all resembles the pantone swatch.
In the ned we had to put a lot more black into the mixed ink and add more base to get something closer to a gray shade.
I`m open for any suggestion, advise,tips & tricks.
Cheers
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And that is probably still an understatement.
The cool gray 10 and cool gray 5 we have mixed today with CCI base and what ever else goes into them looked cured on the tee more like some beige or earth tone colors. Used CCI white instead of the mixing white and around 4% activator. Now I`m wondering if 4% is too much for grays or if I have to use lot less of the white. But in that case I would not know how to create a close pantone match as the mixed ink in the pot does not all all resembles the pantone swatch.
In the ned we had to put a lot more black into the mixed ink and add more base to get something closer to a gray shade.
I`m open for any suggestion, advise,tips & tricks.
Cheers
We almost always use 5% activator and rarely change, to me it is just adding another layer of unprofitable steps to the process, if your color is that far off there is another issue than activator IMO... WB is cool but does it make you $$$$$... we charge $30 per color wb mix fee for every color every order period.
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What is the formula/percentages you used?
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We generally have to add a bunch of blueto the recipe to get the correct shade of grey with DC.
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That's interesting. I never have problems with cool greys. If it turns on the red side then its the shirt doing it. What color shirts... For a grey you can be on the higher side of the activator and be fine. The only colors that low agent is needed is reds and dark colors. Using to much agent just means you need to use more pigment to get the right color after discharging happens. You can make a great red with 6 percent agent it just takes way more pigment then when you use 3 to 4 percent agent. I always test my colors with the goop scoop and a heat gun before production. I just wipe off almost all the ink off the goop scoop and then wipe the rest on a black shirt. Then heat gun until it discharges (low heat from as distance of about 6 inches}. Doesn't give you the perfect color but its close enough, makes it easy and fast to make changes this way. After this it goes to a test shirt.
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It's threads like this that keep me from pulling the trigger on discharge and WB. Just to damn busy to frig with something new right now. :-)
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It's threads like this that keep me from pulling the trigger on discharge and WB. Just to damn busy to frig with something new right now. :-)
You bite your tongue now and never mention this again...got it?
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Gotta be the shirt... did you try it on other blanks?
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We have about 12 grays. From off white to charcoal. If we don't like one we pick another
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You can try up to 7% Agent. But it may be the shirt discharging to its natural color. In that case you can try adding more white and maybe some blue.