TSB
screen printing => Equipment => Topic started by: 3Deep on June 17, 2015, 12:47:29 PM
-
Ok I know this ain't nothing new but I finally bought some sample screens of S mesh from Kevin over at River City, just use the first one today 135/48 very F'ing impressed, one print stroke and it clear all the ink light pressure. I've jump on the band wagon of other products and didn't like them, but this mesh I like and Kevin can expect another order from me, when I have time think I'm going to change all the rollers frames to this mesh...got two more mesh cts to check out, if they print as well as the 135 I'm sold. Hey Alan thanks for the push and Kev for shipping so quickly. 8)
darryl
-
Just be sure to handle them carefully. Don't bang them against each other and if you happen to use them on a back clamp manual make sure to put a strip of tape where it clamps against the frame. Delicate mesh but works very well, even reclaims are easier.
-
Welcome aboard! I switched almost my whole inventory of screens to s mesh and love it.
-
as far as static screens go, River City's S are the best I have ever put through here. not a single complaint...
-
as far as static screens go, River City's S are the best I have ever put through here. not a single complaint...
Ditto! I make sure we cycle them through reclaim chop chop so we can use them again. Our old statics are in a lonely stack against the back wall :-(
-
We have way to many screens to change all of them out at once without spending some serious dollars, but I'm going to buy a few every month and let my wife make flower planters or something out of the old wood statics we have.
-
Not to take away from Kevin, but another option is Kings Mountain Screen Supply http://www.kmssllc.com/ (http://www.kmssllc.com/). I have ordered NEW frames from Keith as well as sent him 12 old frames to restretch. All came in above 20 newtons for 150S mesh. I ordered from him because he's only one state over from me. I also order my Aquasol from him now.
-
I get all my screens, emulsion, and film from Keith at KMSS. Easy to deal with. Helps that I'm only a few miles from him!
-
we absolutely love s-mesh here..
- we may have a solution to our local stretching company, they're stretching up a half dozen screens for us, and we're both hoping that they come in and stay at acceptable tension levels. I have another 24 or so frames to have restretched here, so it would be nice to not be throwing them away.
- all of our day-to-day screens are retensionables and we get 110S, 160S (white), 225S panels from Shurloc.
- we prefer to put 'archive' jobs on statics, so it's good to have both sources.
-J
-
What are you stretching your s-mesh panels to? I am just starting with newmans and I have popped a few screens taking them around 35n. I know better now that I have looked at the chart, but I wanted input from someone more experienced. I also mostly use the 160s and 225s.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I used to go directly by Murakami's recommended tension levels, down to the newton, but now I take everything to 25 newtons (unless that's higher than the recommended level) with one exception. I put our 180/48's to 30 and have been thinking about doing the 150's the same way. I try to find that happy medium to keep performance up without taking away from durability.
-
I used to go directly by Murakami's recommended tension levels, down to the newton, but now I take everything to 25 newtons (unless that's higher than the recommended level) with one exception. I put our 180/48's to 30 and have been thinking about doing the 150's the same way. I try to find that happy medium to keep performance up without taking away from durability.
We're at 24-25N across the board as well.
-
I used to go directly by Murakami's recommended tension levels, down to the newton, but now I take everything to 25 newtons (unless that's higher than the recommended level) with one exception. I put our 180/48's to 30 and have been thinking about doing the 150's the same way. I try to find that happy medium to keep performance up without taking away from durability.
Somehow I wouldn't be surprised if you managed to keep your 150's intact at 30n, but I don't think its realistic for most shops and the increase in fragility would likely far outweigh any benefits on the print side of things. I personally haven't been able to keep a 150 at 26n or above without losing it within days on both older and new mesh, but I'm overall still a bit green in the roller game. 180's on the other hand seem to have way more wiggle room than 150's, and we definitely push them a bit farther without issue.
-
Remember that keeping the screen intact doesn't guarantee you're at a sensible tension for the mesh to be printed at...
If you manage to run a mesh count at a significant amount of tension over what's recommended, you will start breaking threads, and it's also much more likely to split during mishandling instead of just getting a little hole.
I'm with J and Alan, although 28-30 is my default I run 25 on 150S and my 305 meshes.
-
This pretty much sums it up...
http://murakamiscreen.com/stretching-smartmesh-on-common-stretching-devices/ (http://murakamiscreen.com/stretching-smartmesh-on-common-stretching-devices/)
Do what works for you...
-
Darryl,
I recent;y made the switch too. Try the 150 for your white. I think you will like it better. It clears just as easy. I'm still deciding between 180 and 225 for my top colors. On the auto I'm thinking the 225 should definitely do you fine but test one of each.
Best thing I have ever done.
-
Orion, thanks for the link. Like I said, I over tensioned my screens as I never did the research. Most have lasted the higher tensions, but I am very low volume compared to most of you and I am fairly careful with my screens and I am a 1 man shop. Thanks for the help everyone.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Darryl,
I recent;y made the switch too. Try the 150 for your white. I think you will like it better. It clears just as easy. I'm still deciding between 180 and 225 for my top colors. On the auto I'm thinking the 225 should definitely do you fine but test one of each.
Best thing I have ever done.
Yeah I bought each of the most popular mesh cts, I put my tension meter on them right out the box and it read 18 to 19 for all of them, I was thinking it might had been a little higher put still a good working screen tension for statics. I will be changing them out as my other screen go south which ain't to far LOL.
-
Yeah I bought each of the most popular mesh cts, I put my tension meter on them right out the box and it read 18 to 19 for all of them, I was thinking it might had been a little higher put still a good working screen tension for statics. I will be changing them out as my other screen go south which ain't to far LOL.
where did you get yours from? Not everybody is stretching the S-Mesh the same way...
-
Darryl,
I recent;y made the switch too. Try the 150 for your white. I think you will like it better. It clears just as easy. I'm still deciding between 180 and 225 for my top colors. On the auto I'm thinking the 225 should definitely do you fine but test one of each.
Best thing I have ever done.
225 for top colors will definitely work, you could honestly get away with a 280/300 (or something comparable around there) and be perfectly fine.
-
Darryl,
I recent;y made the switch too. Try the 150 for your white. I think you will like it better. It clears just as easy. I'm still deciding between 180 and 225 for my top colors. On the auto I'm thinking the 225 should definitely do you fine but test one of each.
Best thing I have ever done.
Yeah I bought each of the most popular mesh cts, I put my tension meter on them right out the box and it read 18 to 19 for all of them, I was thinking it might had been a little higher put still a good working screen tension for statics. I will be changing them out as my other screen go south which ain't to far LOL.
Wow what a difference it makes to get them stretched by Muarakami. They stretched our static frames to 28N for the 150-S and 225-S are as well around 26N-28N. They did a beautiful job.
-
I am pretty sure I have in 6 years popped more screens than any other one man shop. Every pop is a message and a lesson.
Now we are pretty good at stretching without the pop. The key on square bar frames is softening the corners ESPECIALLY on the top roller.
Our shop typical is
40Nm on 156
30 -32 on 196
28 - 30 on 230
25-28 on 180 S-mesh
mooseman