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screen printing => Ink and Chemicals => Topic started by: LoneWolf2 on September 18, 2015, 11:21:16 AM
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Hey folks
Looking to possibly get a gallon of Nazdars white silicone ink to use on some of the nasty migrating garment dyed shirts i'm constantly having to print, and some polyester/tri-blends.
Would it be possible to use this ink as a standalone white/underbase, and then print plastisols on top of?
Or would it defeat the purpose of using the ink since i'd have to cure at a temp high enough for the plastisol?
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Plastisol won't stick to silicone.
Furthermore, if you contaminate silicone with plastisol it won't cure.
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I use the white alot works great on stretchy or hard to print fabrics , only have had one colour mixed , it was a light green and wasn't very opaque so we under based with the white silicone.
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Hey folks
Looking to possibly get a gallon of Nazdars white silicone ink to use on some of the nasty migrating garment dyed shirts i'm constantly having to print, and some polyester/tri-blends.
Would it be possible to use this ink as a standalone white/underbase, and then print plastisols on top of?
Or would it defeat the purpose of using the ink since i'd have to cure at a temp high enough for the plastisol?
As mentioned -- no plastisol/silicone combo! And the silicone is GREAT for smooth poly, it does not mat fibers down well at all -- so the triblends will probably be a struggle. Smoothing screens and such that are useful in plastisol do not work in silicone chemistry.
take a read f the tech sheet here - https://sourceone.nazdar.com/Portals/0/TDS/ImageStar-Silicone-InfoGuide_2015-web.pdf (https://sourceone.nazdar.com/Portals/0/TDS/ImageStar-Silicone-InfoGuide_2015-web.pdf)
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Hey folks
Looking to possibly get a gallon of Nazdars white silicone ink to use on some of the nasty migrating garment dyed shirts i'm constantly having to print, and some polyester/tri-blends.
Would it be possible to use this ink as a standalone white/underbase, and then print plastisols on top of?
Or would it defeat the purpose of using the ink since i'd have to cure at a temp high enough for the plastisol?
As mentioned -- no plastisol/silicone combo! And the silicone is GREAT for smooth poly, it does not mat fibers down well at all -- so the triblends will probably be a struggle. Smoothing screens and such that are useful in plastisol do not work in silicone chemistry.
take a read f the tech sheet here - https://sourceone.nazdar.com/Portals/0/TDS/ImageStar-Silicone-InfoGuide_2015-web.pdf (https://sourceone.nazdar.com/Portals/0/TDS/ImageStar-Silicone-InfoGuide_2015-web.pdf)
Rob: If Silicone isn’t the best solution for bleed prone tri-blends what would you recommend?
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Rob: If Silicone isn’t the best solution for bleed prone tri-blends what would you recommend?
I will answer briefly so as to keep the thread hijack short! :o
The challenge with tri-blends of course is the significant (50%) polyester content - battling the sublimation/migration issues while trying to keep a soft hand print on this super-soft surface.
A good BR white ink like Wilflex Top Score or Performance White uses as an underbase and a highlight white. Print-flash-print through a bit of a finer mesh yields less ink and softer hand than hogging it on in one hit screen. An alternative is to use an underbase gray as well. In fact Ray Smith form PolyOne has an article in this month's Printwear abot using UB Gray. You can link to it from our web site - https://sourceone.nazdar.com/News/ArtMID/620/ArticleID/311/How-To-Improve-Prints-with-Under-Base-Gray (https://sourceone.nazdar.com/News/ArtMID/620/ArticleID/311/How-To-Improve-Prints-with-Under-Base-Gray)
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Rob: If Silicone isn’t the best solution for bleed prone tri-blends what would you recommend?
I will answer briefly so as to keep the thread hijack short! :o
The challenge with tri-blends of course is the significant (50%) polyester content - battling the sublimation/migration issues while trying to keep a soft hand print on this super-soft surface.
A good BR white ink like Wilflex Top Score or Performance White uses as an underbase and a highlight white. Print-flash-print through a bit of a finer mesh yields less ink and softer hand than hogging it on in one hit screen. An alternative is to use an underbase gray as well. In fact Ray Smith form PolyOne has an article in this month's Printwear abot using UB Gray. You can link to it from our web site - https://sourceone.nazdar.com/News/ArtMID/620/ArticleID/311/How-To-Improve-Prints-with-Under-Base-Gray (https://sourceone.nazdar.com/News/ArtMID/620/ArticleID/311/How-To-Improve-Prints-with-Under-Base-Gray)
Dont want to step on any toes but Quick White is the best thing out there for tri blends. Hit with a smoothing screen and S mesh takes the hand to almost nothing. We run tri blends every day using all the different manufacturers and have zero bleed issues. Key is in the curing. People notoriously over flash and cure them way too hot not even realizing it. We have built a niche printing on these types of garments and this combo does not let us down. Now this combo wont always work for NL 60/40 blacks. They are having some dye issues like a m*ther f*cker.
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Rob: If Silicone isn’t the best solution for bleed prone tri-blends what would you recommend?
I will answer briefly so as to keep the thread hijack short! :o
The challenge with tri-blends of course is the significant (50%) polyester content - battling the sublimation/migration issues while trying to keep a soft hand print on this super-soft surface.
A good BR white ink like Wilflex Top Score or Performance White uses as an underbase and a highlight white. Print-flash-print through a bit of a finer mesh yields less ink and softer hand than hogging it on in one hit screen. An alternative is to use an underbase gray as well. In fact Ray Smith form PolyOne has an article in this month's Printwear abot using UB Gray. You can link to it from our web site - https://sourceone.nazdar.com/News/ArtMID/620/ArticleID/311/How-To-Improve-Prints-with-Under-Base-Gray (https://sourceone.nazdar.com/News/ArtMID/620/ArticleID/311/How-To-Improve-Prints-with-Under-Base-Gray)
Dont want to step on any toes but Quick White is the best thing out there for tri blends. Hit with a smoothing screen and S mesh takes the hand to almost nothing. We run tri blends every day using all the different manufacturers and have zero bleed issues. Key is in the curing. People notoriously over flash and cure them way too hot not even realizing it. We have built a niche printing on these types of garments and this combo does not let us down. Now this combo wont always work for NL 60/40 blacks. They are having some dye issues like a m*ther f*cker.
we like to do HSA whites. That works great on triblends!
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Dont want to step on any toes but Quick White is the best thing out there for tri blends. Hit with a smoothing screen and S mesh takes the hand to almost nothing. We run tri blends every day using all the different manufacturers and have zero bleed issues. Key is in the curing. People notoriously over flash and cure them way too hot not even realizing it. We have built a niche printing on these types of garments and this combo does not let us down. Now this combo wont always work for NL 60/40 blacks. They are having some dye issues like a m*ther f*cker.
Right here folks.. I worked with Jason for awhile and he's spot on. His custy's are some of the crankiest I've ever met and he has them walking away with a smile on their faces. S threads, 85% flashing temps, controlled dryer temp/speed.
We got to run some Silicone on some nasty bleeding compression t's that came out awesome!
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Rob: If Silicone isn’t the best solution for bleed prone tri-blends what would you recommend?
I will answer briefly so as to keep the thread hijack short! :o
The challenge with tri-blends of course is the significant (50%) polyester content - battling the sublimation/migration issues while trying to keep a soft hand print on this super-soft surface.
A good BR white ink like Wilflex Top Score or Performance White uses as an underbase and a highlight white. Print-flash-print through a bit of a finer mesh yields less ink and softer hand than hogging it on in one hit screen. An alternative is to use an underbase gray as well. In fact Ray Smith form PolyOne has an article in this month's Printwear abot using UB Gray. You can link to it from our web site - https://sourceone.nazdar.com/News/ArtMID/620/ArticleID/311/How-To-Improve-Prints-with-Under-Base-Gray (https://sourceone.nazdar.com/News/ArtMID/620/ArticleID/311/How-To-Improve-Prints-with-Under-Base-Gray)
Now this combo wont always work for NL 60/40 blacks. They are having some dye issues like a m*ther f*cker.
No doubt. What is up with these things? Just the solid blacks, all the other colors seem to print beautiful..... Side note, what's up with all the yellow going into dyes these days?
Murphy37
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Our domestic operation just switched to PVC free. Before the switch we were big fans of the Rutland Endurance inks for blocking dye in poly or blended fabrics. It stopped the bleeding almost entirely, and we had some terrible shirts to print on.
Not sure how it will handle your fibrillation problem but both the grey and the white left a fantastic finish. Good luck!