TSB
screen printing => Screen Making => Topic started by: SI on November 09, 2015, 12:20:11 PM
-
Wondering how many people out there re-stretch their own screens, and what brand of stretchers(system) do you use.
Through the various acquiring of equipment I have about 20 good aluminum frames and close to 50 that are bare and need mesh. I have the mesh and glue but no way to tension it. Looking for a good system to buy.
-
I have a pneumatic system I built.
If you don't have a lot of screens I'd buy a bigger roller frame stretch on this and then glue onto the static.
I've never done this but it should work.
-
for the cost of a real stretching setup, you'd be better off just sending them out to somebody for re-stretch.
Maxie's suggestion of a roller frame would certainly work tho...
not sure what size frames you have, but 23x31 frames, remeshed with 'S'-mesh (160/48) generally cost us around $20 or so, certainly wouldn't be worth my time...
-
get yourself a large roller frame big enough to encompass the static frames. Stretch the mesh in the roller frame, when done set it over the static and glue it down....cut it out and start over on the next static. Stretch Devices has some pretty large frames and can also I believe build a custom roller size.
Not high production or high tech but way less $$$$$ than a table. depends on the time vs money balance.
mooseman
-
for the cost of a real stretching setup, you'd be better off just sending them out to somebody for re-stretch.
Maxie's suggestion of a roller frame would certainly work tho...
not sure what size frames you have, but 23x31 frames, remeshed with 'S'-mesh (160/48) generally cost us around $20 or so, certainly wouldn't be worth my time...
Up to last year, I was getting screens re-stretched, but with the switch to dimensional weight shipping charges, it became less practical. I have a pile now, and if someone local doesn't pop up, I have a feeling that these will become worth their weight in scrap aluminum prices.
-
Up to last year, I was getting screens re-stretched, but with the switch to dimensional weight shipping charges, it became less practical. I have a pile now, and if someone local doesn't pop up, I have a feeling that these will become worth their weight in scrap aluminum prices.
we're lucky in that GSF (Graphic Screen Fashion) is about 30 minutes away, easy to drive down, drop off the frames, and then go and pick them up ... We're also getting our Saati products from them, so if I batch everything up, I save a bunch in shipping as well.
-J
-
How does tensioning a Roller frame compare to something like this? http://www.eino-diamondchase.com/products/tension-quik-screen-stretcher-2 (http://www.eino-diamondchase.com/products/tension-quik-screen-stretcher-2)
When I bought my dryer the guy threw this in. It sucks, the nylon rods pop out all the time and it tears mesh a lot because the force required to rotate it is extreme, so it normally jumps more than it needs to when rotating and overshoots thus tearing the mesh. I would hate to have the same problems with a roller frame.
I bought 6 small 4" air cylinders and was thinking of building a lift table that would drive a screen up into the mesh, but obviously this would take a lot of time to build. I know it would be cheaper than buying a lift table, but i would rather spend my time printing then building a new contraption.
-
Look into used Newman frames and Shur-Lock panels.
I used to run Aluminum screens until I bought tension meter.
Now I have around 40 newmans and I will never-ever buy another aluminum screen (Maybe a 24 mesh) :)
Now I use my aluminum screens until they break and only for simple one color designs.
It might be a bit more expensive, but it is worth every penny.
-
Stretching onto a larger roller or other adjustable frame to sit on top of a smaller frame and glue is a time honored tradition for those who don't want a stretcher, I used to do that to make our old hat frames with the one metal side. Otherwise, I picked up an M&R Blue Max at an auction years ago, for $250 (yes, it was a wicked good find). Look around...
Steve
-
The oversized frame deal will work. I have some huge ones(hehe) I'll PM you about them.
-
I stretch them on my Newmans.
Do several runs with retension in between, then I glue them on smaller frames.
-
A lot of you are saying use newmans, but then on another post which i cant find, i read to use a stretcher that puts pressure on the frame at the same time. Which a Newman wouldnt do if I am thinking right?
-
the newman frame itself wouldn't be heavy enough, but if you put some weight around the edges (maybe a few bricks) it would push the screen down onto the aluminum frame you're gluing...
the pressure is only there to make sure that you get good contact between the mesh, the frame and the glue.
-
*
-
Thank you Frog, I was thinking based on the post i read and now can't find, that the pressure was suppose to be from the side pushing inward, therefor when the mesh was cut the frame would push out creating even more tension on the mesh. Your picture helped clear this up
-
What glue are you guys using?
-
I have bought glue from multiple places.
Had good results with this brand.
http://www.spsi.biz/screen-printing-supplies/screens-frames/rhinotech-sma100 (http://www.spsi.biz/screen-printing-supplies/screens-frames/rhinotech-sma100)
-
The most important for me is the roughness of the frame.
Then I would apply 5cm (2 inch) at a time. Making sure the glue penetrated the screen and there is no air bubbles.
-
Was going to post this a few weeks ago, sorry--if you are using Newman frames to re-stretch, bar clamps are sweet.
I put a manual frame down with the prepped side up, put the newman down with the mesh contacting it, put a bar clamp on each corner pulling the newman towards the static, and you can then adjust the preload on four corners.
Caveats: Too much chem tape = not enough free mesh to glue a 23x31 to a 20x24.
Table you glue on must be within a couple inches of one direction--i.e. either 30-32 inches wide, or 22-24 inches wide.