TSB
screen printing => Screen Making => Topic started by: cbjamel on December 31, 2015, 01:25:51 PM
-
>:(Has anybody seen this or know what causes it? I just had 6 of them do this!
Happy New Year!
Thanks,
Shane
-
are chems staying in the channel and softening the plastic?
-
>:(Has anybody seen this or know what causes it? I just had 6 of them do this!
Happy New Year!
Thanks,
Shane
Happened after coated and drying.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
-
Can too much heat do it??
Shane
-
Looks like too much heat from whatever is near them/blowing on them while drying.
-
Yea possibly. Thats what I am trying to determine.
Shane
-
are chems staying in the channel and softening the plastic?
Bingo. That is what is happening. We see it in the auto washers often. The chemicals attack and soften the glue.
-
>:(Has anybody seen this or know what causes it? I just had 6 of them do this!
Happy New Year!
Thanks,
Shane
What kind of tension are you maintaining and is it possible the mesh was re-tensioned prior to the failure?
Are you using a heated dip tank for ink/emulsion removal?
Proximity of any heat source in mesh drying area?
Did you observe the failure or find it?
-
I'm impressed with the lack of screen tape... if we did that here the panels would likely not even last 1 trip around the shop.
-
>:(Has anybody seen this or know what causes it? I just had 6 of them do this!
Happy New Year!
Thanks,
Shane
What kind of tension are you maintaining and is it possible the mesh was re-tensioned prior to the failure?
Are you using a heated dip tank for ink/emulsion removal?
Proximity of any heat source in mesh drying area?
Did you observe the failure or find it?
Greg, No retensioning, soak tank not heated. 1.5' from heater but the heat was directly on the bottom 6 screen then these 6 more that did this and 2 more on top that didn't. Std tensions.
Using ir and er satti chems.
Thanks,
Shane
-
I'm impressed with the lack of screen tape... if we did that here the panels would likely not even last 1 trip around the shop.
Ok I have got to ask when do you tape? I tape after coating and don't use protectors.
Shane
-
Did they separate on the heated side?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Did they separate on the heated side?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Greg, yes but no in direct line of heat.
Shane
-
I'm impressed with the lack of screen tape... if we did that here the panels would likely not even last 1 trip around the shop.
Ok I have got to ask when do you tape? I tape after coating and don't use protectors.
Shane
I put polyken tape on the screens when I stretch them (polyken is that white duct-tape type tape)... leave it on until the panel is ready to be replaced. (no protectors here either, I tried a few of them at first and hated them, so we just tape).
depending on the job, we'll use split tape or masking tape on the inside of the frame, but more often than not, we don't tape after exposing the screens.
-
OK, were do you you put the poly tape so that you can coat?
Thanks,
Shane
-
we use 2" tape and start it on the ribbed section of the newman frame... if I'm at the shop tomorrow, I'll shoot a pic, but basically it covers about 1-1.25" into the mesh, covering the locking strip and protecting the mesh when we put it in the screen racks.
-
we use 2" tape and start it on the ribbed section of the newman frame... if I'm at the shop tomorrow, I'll shoot a pic, but basically it covers about 1-1.25" into the mesh, covering the locking strip and protecting the mesh when we put it in the screen racks.
Thanks i would like to see that.
Shane
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
-
wouldn't the heat melt the mesh first? or at least distort it in some fashion
-
wouldn't the heat melt the mesh first? or at least distort it in some fashion
Thats what i thought.
Shane
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
-
We had two Newman's with Shurloc panels do that. In a rush to dry them I leaned them against the stand under the flash on the manual and forgot about them, went to use them and they both popped like that. The strip got soft from the heat and rolled out. I think the mesh being so thin dissipates the heat fast enough not to break but the strip absorbs the heat.
-
We had two Newman's with Shurloc panels do that. In a rush to dry them I leaned them against the stand under the flash on the manual and forgot about them, went to use them and they both popped like that. The strip got soft from the heat and rolled out. I think the mesh being so thin dissipates the heat fast enough not to break but the strip absorbs the heat.
I will dry my screens under my flash but I've never had this.
Shane
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
-
Pics of how we tape our newmans frames...
-
Pics of how we tape our newmans frames...
([url]http://www.oaknet.com/gallery/var/resizes/Screen-Printing/R%26D/IMG_8994.jpg?m=1451765145[/url])
([url]http://www.oaknet.com/gallery/var/resizes/Screen-Printing/R%26D/IMG_8996.jpg?m=1451765144[/url])
([url]http://www.oaknet.com/gallery/var/resizes/Screen-Printing/R%26D/IMG_8995.jpg?m=1451765145[/url])
Thanks,
Shane
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
-
Great Oooglie Moooglie! What did you do to that poor panel Shane?
I have to jump in (now that I'm back from the long weekend - Happy New Year by the way everyone!) and get some information going here...
This isn't a chemical issue, the warp is far too clean to be a chemical thing - plus the chemicals cause the plastic to pull away and start pulling apart. This allows the chemical to get in-between the 2 pcs and eat the glue. The glue fails and then the panels explode. If you haven't seen it yet, just try not rinsing one after you have it in the dip tank for a bit. It's quite scary...
What this looks more like to me is that there was a direct heat source near the edge of the plastic. Unfortunately, the plastic has a lower warping point than the mesh has melting point. The mesh should hold up to temps well in excess of 175-200 degrees depending on the mesh count. Some manufacturers even subject the mesh to heat treatments to make the threads last longer. The plastic, on the other hand, will take temps of 100-120 degrees or so before it starts to soften. The melting point of the product (PVC) is 160 degrees. This is quite a ways under even the finest mesh counts will take.
I'm pretty sure that you just got them a bit too hot and under the pressure of the tension, they failed. Shoot me an email (ron@shurloc.com) and I will see if the bosses will let me help you out with this one... :)
Ron
-
Thanks Ron I think after haring all this its the heat. Doesn't make sense since it wasn't directly on these 6 that busted. I have re-meshed with what I had at lot of 4-190s and 2-156's. My error sine I put a new heater in the room.
I do know that Mike@Denco denver is wanting to try to get setup to sell shurloc. That would he me in Colorado have more people to buy from.
Thanks,
Shane