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screen printing => Equipment => Topic started by: Gabe on October 10, 2011, 08:41:35 PM
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Howdy does anyone prints on a manual screen printing machine 6c 4s made by workhorse products
I`am curious about how good reggies are
is it able to hold butt to butt registration
Thanks in advance ;)
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I have an 8 color. . .yes and yes. . .but there are better presses. I want that M&R something or other with the air locks. . .that sh!t is bananas. . .although, screw manuals, that is hard work!
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I heard good hings about it, but in my opinion (any many others too) Antec Legend and Vastex 2000HD are the best machines in manual world (if you have to sick with manual).
Printhouse has 8 color Workhorse manual too.
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Howdy does anyone prints on a manual screen printing machine 6c 4s made by workhorse products
I`am curious about how good reggies are
is it able to hold butt to butt registration
Thanks in advance ;)
With "manual" sized screens, provided the press is in good condition an well maintained, yes it will hold registration quite well. As with any back-clamp press, proper setup and adjustment is crucial. The Workhorse's use nylon registration bolts, a la Hopkins. As long as these are checked on a regular basis, and the off-contact landing pads are setup correctly in the first place, it will hold reg on most any job.
That said, after owning an 8 color Chameleon with air locks, I am ruined for any other press. It holds 23x31 Newman M3's with the flick of a switch. I haven't had to use traps in artwork since I bought it. (in fact I remove trapping from customer separated artwork all the time)
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Might be picking up a 6/6 workhorse myself on the cheap. Seems sturdy , no arm flex , just as well built as my RJennings press (don"t tell Roger I said that...) :P
I have seen a used workhorse press in another shop that had 2 of its casting heads snapped from over torqing the reggies.
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I've got a 6/4 Workhorse. But mine is the lighter version of the one you have pictured. Mine keeps pretty good registration for back clamps. Just don't 'horse' the screens when rotating or you will change the registration. That's probably true on any of the ones with back clamps.
I've seen the Workhorse model close up that is in your picture at the local supply house. It's a much heavier, more solid press than my model. Heavy steel wheel carousel and beefier arms....and yes, I could tell the difference when pulling the heads down. But what I've got is what I've got, lol.
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I have a 6/6 Workhorse manual. They are great. I do butt reg with no issues. I print 4 color process on it also. It is a great press. Having 6 boards is needed for cool down if you print fast . The nylon the bolts have never been a issue. I have read that people are afraid of them breaking or not being strong enough to hold registration. They are only used when you are adjusting the reg and you tighten it they cannot break. When you tighten the registration lock down bolts nothing moves. You can use auto frames on them, I have been for a while no different results than manuals.. Keep in mind that this press has been made for many years. There is very old ones that may be not as good as mine. I bought mine 2.5 years ago. The newer ones have a black spring guard on them you can see it in the pictures. (those have been built in the last 5 years. If you find one get the serial number or even a picture and workhorse can tell you how old it is.
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As others have noted, a good, commercial quality basic machine. I have a Mach VI and though I'd love the precision and predictability of true XY type micro reg and bearing type registration gates, it is perfectly capable of making as good a print as any manual, and in the right hands (nobrainsd comes to mind) results can be stunning!
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All above presses are very good machines. The Chameleon 14 colors were developed as strike off machines for large automated shops hence some of the "overkill" however I have an 8 and it is awesome if not a little weighty on the spin. The side clamps and air locks are a real nice touch. That said I'm looking at rebuilding some Rototex manuals that have been laying around. Not a lot of "goodie features" but one sturdy SOB.
Might be putting them up for sale.
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I have an 8/8 that I absolutely love. I do butt registration for all my artwork and as others have mentioned as long as it is set up and maintained properly it holds registration perfectly. Last week I did 390 4 color fronts and never touched a single knob throughout the entire run. I would of course love to have an M&R manual but this one popped up locally at an incredible price. I don't regret picking it up at all and I am always on the lookout for other good deals on them. Another great thing is that there are a ton of them out there and spare parts, pallet brackets, etc. are easy to come by. I run 16 X 22 boards for regular days and then have a set of 4 boards in youth, sleeve, oversized and some specialty cuts that I can throw on quickly. I keep about 10 spares of each of the nylon reg bolts on hand but have never replaced any as of yet. Another selling point is the people at workhorse... They are awesome to deal with. Every time I make a call to them I am amazed at at how knowledgeable yet down to earth they are.
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wow it sounds like a serious piece of machine
Does this machine 8\8 has the room capacity to load screens for all over prints like 25 by 36
with side clamps for maximum stability
thanks team mates ;)
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I don't know if Workhorse offers side clamps, but to fit huge screens and huge boards like you mention would require skipping every other head at the least.
Side clamps have their place, especially with loose framed and, or warped wood screens, or to aid in moving screens for name drops, but are not indispensable.
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All this positive talk gave me the final push to act on one that's being sold locally... 6/6
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I run 23 X 31 screens on my standard back clamps without any issues at all. Like Frog mentioned you have to skip every other head to go larger. I also have a Brown Master Printer that has side clamps that I use for oddball stuff. I thought I would not be able to print without the side clamps but each actually has their place. Hopefully you can move on that one. I have been looking for another workhorse myself.
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WorkHorse does sell side clamps for their presses. I have back clamps and have never had a problem. There is a few things that I have done just to make the press work better, not that you need it. I broke a few boards off the clamps in the beginning. (they are wood boards) the boards are just screwed into the boards so over time the get loose. I went and got some epoxy and glued the screws and the clamp to the boards. It makes them very strong. I also put some grip tape (the stuff you put on stairs or skate boards) on the bottom part of the clamps. They are smooth metal and if you are swinging the screens around hard they can slip a little. (it only happened on maybe 2 jobs before in 2 years)
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I printed on one for 5 years. It's not an Antec, and after printing on an Antec, I would never buy another workhorse manual. Just not in the same league.
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I have a couple side clamps for workhorse presses if anyone is interested.
Bought them to be able to use my auto screens on my manual, then promptly
removed them. You pretty much need the features of a Chameleon to make side
clamps user friendly.
Workhorse' are good solid presses.
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If I read it correctly side clamps for the workhorse are only 200 bucks a head (maybe that's just for an upgrade) but I cant find any pics of what they look like?
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Like a Rototex.
For $200 you can have 4 of mine.
You will need a second set or beefier springs.
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Like a Rototex.
For $200 you can have 4 of mine.
You will need a second set or beefier springs.
Can you email me pics? endlessink@gmail.com
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you guys are making me change my perspetive toward back clamps
i screen printed only on side clamps manual presses but after this discussion it makes sense
using back clamps with aluminum screens having said that
don`t mean to break the thread
what would be the right tension in newtons to achieve butt to butt reggies in manual machines?
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I can't give you numbers,. but I can assure you that average decent quality static frames are perfectly capable of running butt registered jobs.
Along with looser mesh, problems can arise when too mush squeegee pressure is used which shifts the mesh too much and inconsistently.
I'm running panel frames as much as possible now, but still have older statics in my rotation which don't give me problems. In fact, I just finished a butt registered two color rush job of 15 pieces using one new 180 panel for the fill of 2" varsity text, and an old 110 static for a one hit white outline.
btw, there were three sets of different color fills, and yes, I was duly compensated for the small quantity, color changes, and rush. Don't worry about the Frog. ;D
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what would be the right tension in newtons to achieve butt to butt reggies in manual machines?
The formula for the right tension in newtons for any frame is simple:
Maximum tension the mesh (and frame) can handle
minus
Your patience and diligence maintaining said tension
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"what would be the right tension in Newton’s to achieve butt to butt reggies in manual machines?"
I don't use high tension screens. (Newman’s or panels) I use static aluminum on my Workhorse 6/6. I have always done butt registration. Most of my screens are in the 20n to 25n range. I have some manual screens that are 15 to 18. I know I am going to get killed buy the HIGH TENSION ONLY GUYS on here. With low tension screens the biggest difference you see is that the screen can move with the squeegee just a hair. If all your screens are in the same range (Newtons of tension) this movement will not make the design out of registration because all the screens move that hair. There is a lot more that plays into it but if your tension is at least...say 18n you can do but registration on a good press with out many problems. If you can't then I am doing the impossible every day.
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I've got a Newman ST-1E meter and just measured 6 of my 20 x 24 aluminum statics and the very BEST was 18 by 18. Most were below 15 by 15 (actually 13 by 13).
I then measured a few 20 x 24 wood frames and found ONE that was over 20 by 20. The rest were below 15 by 15
I am curious where you are getting static screens that measure 25 newtons or even a solid 20.....with consistency.
I'm not too concerned for myself though as I've got 15 - 18 MZX Rollers that I'm going to start meshing and using.
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I have got many of them locally. I have alot at 20 a few just over that. I got some autos from Sonny that are in the 18 to 20 range they have been doing really good. Most of the time I get them they are 18 to 22.
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Like a Rototex.
For $200 you can have 4 of mine.
You will need a second set or beefier springs.
I'm ready to buy these off you, can you contact me through email? endlessink@gmail.com
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Picked up my Workhorse 6/6 today. It's going to be a project for a few months to clean off the spray tack, new paint job and some adjustments to get back into all heads down. Luckily its the newer model with the spring covers.
Going to be looking for a some brackets if anyone has any?
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My 8/8 was horribly dirty when I got it. I took every part off of it and cleaned the base, regreased the bearings and re assembled it. I then took one head at a time off, took them apart, cleaned them and even bead blasted some parts of them. The heads I have done look like new. For the money I have in this press I am pumped.
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I think they could have used thicker gauge steel for the arms that didnt indent underneath from the brackets, other than that seems very solid. Can't wait to get her looking like new and back into production.
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I think they could have used thicker gauge steel for the arms that didnt indent underneath from the brackets, other than that seems very solid. Can't wait to get her looking like new and back into production.
???
My press is at least 10 years old and has no such indentations.
Sounds like someone over tightened like crazy, or perhaps used cheaper generic brackets with regular thumb screws without "pads" on the ends, or both!
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I think they could have used thicker gauge steel for the arms that didnt indent underneath from the brackets, other than that seems very solid. Can't wait to get her looking like new and back into production.
???
My press is at least 10 years old and has no such indentations.
Sounds like someone over tightened like crazy, or perhaps used cheaper generic brackets with regular thumb screws without "pads" on the ends, or both!
It's 1/2 as thick as my Jennings arms. The brackets look legit to me maybe they used some crappy ones for other attachments. Globs of spray tack on press on press tugs my heart strings like an abused puppy. No need for it... :P
Still stoked on it though.
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I hear good things about the Jennings, but twice as thick means twice as heavy to spin. That's the knock on the Chameleon as an everyday press.
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Yeah... It seems some folks think that you really need to crank those things down. I just snug mine and have never had an issue.
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I also don't know if their entry level Odyssey is much lighter, and though it's the one "entry level" that I have always heard good things about, and recommend, I hope that Endless got a true "Workhorse"
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I also don't know if their entry level Odyssey is much lighter, and though it's the one "entry level" that I have always heard good things about, and recommend, I hope that Endless got a true "Workhorse"
This is the one... though it's paint is a different shade of blue but still has those spring covers. The shop this came out of has mulitple employees and you know much employees care about YOUR equipment. My Jennings is 6 years old and looks showroom new.
(http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1681.0;attach=1405;image)
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Debating on giving it a new coat of blue paint or something more cool like yellow, probably the something close the new shade of blue incase of resale.
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Workhorse presses are Teal. The picture shows it much bluer. They are powder coated yours should still look good after you clean it up. Post some pictures of the press you got. The paint can't be that bad.
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I believe that the cross braces and main shaft and bearing support going all the way to the bottom is the obvious indicator that this is not the Odyssey, but is in fact a Workhorse.
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Workhorse presses are Teal. The picture shows it much bluer. They are powder coated yours should still look good after you clean it up. Post some pictures of the press you got. The paint can't be that bad.
Yeah it's teal a dark teal not baby blue teal like the new new stuff but much of the paint is gone and reeks of lemon scented cleaner that probably has something to do with the paint removal. Also just noticed that mine doesnt have the "floating black arms" so I'm assuming my model is not all heads down.
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BTW how bad of an idea is it to remove the center hub? I think I read somewhere that someone had a bitch of a time getting back together right.
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Shawn, if yours does not have the underside support arms, you have the (kinda) entry level one, which is the same one I have. The model with the extra support arms under the platen arm is a sturdier (and more expensive) model.
I've had the ones without the under-arms for about 5 years now. I bought it used and got the press, Illumitron exposure unit, Mercury flash, a few screens, some ink and chemicals, scoop coater, squeeqees, etc. for $2800. Hope that helps.
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That reminds me. These have the arms leveled at the factory (with the adjustable support arms Wayne mentioned) and they are then numbered to match their spots on the carousel and should never need to be messed with again (unless one disassembles it and cleans off the numbers)
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Shawn, if yours does not have the underside support arms, you have the (kinda) entry level one, which is the same one I have. The model with the extra support arms under the platen arm is a sturdier (and more expensive) model.
I've had the ones without the under-arms for about 5 years now. I bought it used and got the press, Illumitron exposure unit, Mercury flash, a few screens, some ink and chemicals, scoop coater, squeeqees, etc. for $2800. Hope that helps.
I have the "struts" I dont have the black arms up top shown here http://www.workhorseproducts.com/images/pdf/manuals/workhorse/original_modular_manual.pdf (http://www.workhorseproducts.com/images/pdf/manuals/workhorse/original_modular_manual.pdf)
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That reminds me. These have the arms leveled at the factory (with the adjustable brace you described) and they are then numbered to match their spots on the carousel and should never need to be messed with again (unless one disassembles it and cleans off the numbers)
still numbered not the braces I was talking about
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(http://s1.postimage.org/kf96zijkn/float_arms.png)
taken from the manual online, they call them float arms that make it an all heads down
mine press is more like this one without, so not all heads down?
(http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1681.0;attach=1405;image)
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All heads down is not a phenomenon of supported arms or unsupported.
All heads down is simply when the number of heads match the number of platens.
2 platens and 2 heads would be all heads down IF the heads line up with the platens.
Unless you have 5 other people pulling squeegees on a 6 color job, there isn't any gain in "all heads down" - imho
Look closely at that picture. I'm betting yours does not have the aluminum spider looking thing to which the heads are attached. Mine is a more solid blue plate where the heads are attached - it's the Odyssey Series.
Sounds like this is what you purchased -
http://www.texsourceonline.com/p-658-workhorse-screen-printing-equipment-manual-odyssey-series.aspx (http://www.texsourceonline.com/p-658-workhorse-screen-printing-equipment-manual-odyssey-series.aspx)
Click on "view larger image"
Note the obvious differences in the rotating plate where the heads are attached in addition to the missing arm supports.
It's not a bad press at all, just not as heavy duty as the one in your picture.
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All heads down is not a phenomenon of supported arms or unsupported.
All heads down is simply when the number of heads match the number of platens.
2 platens and 2 heads would be all heads down IF the heads line up with the platens.
Look closely at that picture. I'm betting yours does not have the aluminum spider looking thing to which the heads are attached. Mine is a more solid blue plate where the heads are attached.
Sounds like this is what you purchased -
[url]http://www.texsourceonline.com/p-658-workhorse-screen-printing-equipment-manual-odyssey-series.aspx[/url] ([url]http://www.texsourceonline.com/p-658-workhorse-screen-printing-equipment-manual-odyssey-series.aspx[/url])
Click on "view larger image"
Note the obvious differences in the rotating plate where the heads are attached in addition to the missing arm supports.
It's not a bad press at all, just not as heavy duty as the one in your picture.
No Wayne, there is more to it than just having the same number of heads and stations.
On the press we are talking about, the Mach series comes both ways, both can be 6/6,
Mine is a 6/6 that does not line up to print all heads down. Even if it could, the slightest mis-adjustment of the nylon registration bolts on one head rotate the whole carousel just enough to muck it up. That's why the all heads down model has that part a little different. They have what are called "float heads" which compensate and self-allign.
The manual explains it a bit. http://www.workhorseproducts.com/images/pdf/manuals/workhorse/original_modular_manual.pdf (http://www.workhorseproducts.com/images/pdf/manuals/workhorse/original_modular_manual.pdf)
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Frog got it! Even RJennings says his press is all heads down but it's not really unless every head is exactly the same, just a minor adjustment in one head and it's out of whack.
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All heads down is not a phenomenon of supported arms or unsupported.
All heads down is simply when the number of heads match the number of platens.
2 platens and 2 heads would be all heads down IF the heads line up with the platens.
Look closely at that picture. I'm betting yours does not have the aluminum spider looking thing to which the heads are attached. Mine is a more solid blue plate where the heads are attached.
Sounds like this is what you purchased -
[url]http://www.texsourceonline.com/p-658-workhorse-screen-printing-equipment-manual-odyssey-series.aspx[/url] ([url]http://www.texsourceonline.com/p-658-workhorse-screen-printing-equipment-manual-odyssey-series.aspx[/url])
Click on "view larger image"
Note the obvious differences in the rotating plate where the heads are attached in addition to the missing arm supports.
It's not a bad press at all, just not as heavy duty as the one in your picture.
No Wayne, there is more to it than just having the same number of heads and stations.
On the press we are talking about, the Mach series comes both ways, both can be 6/6,
Mine is a 6/6 that does not line up to print all heads down. Even if it could, the slightest mis-adjustment of the nylon registration bolts on one head rotate the whole carousel just enough to muck it up. That's why the all heads down model has that part a little different. They have what are called "float heads" which compensate and self-allign.
The manual explains it a bit. [url]http://www.workhorseproducts.com/images/pdf/manuals/workhorse/original_modular_manual.pdf[/url] ([url]http://www.workhorseproducts.com/images/pdf/manuals/workhorse/original_modular_manual.pdf[/url])
Okay, I stand corrected, lol.
But still -
Working as a one person shop, NOT having "all heads down" is still not a loss to my thinking.
Even with two people, the odds are "all heads down" would rarely, if ever, be of use.
Am I right?
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It's not a big deal to me at all but it does add resale value.
Strange thing is my print heads have the bolt holes for the float arms to attach to ,maybe I can add them later if I ever find the need to.
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To clarify a bit....
I owned a Aaron 6/6 press that was a copy of the Workhorse AHD design:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3432/3741459525_ac3683e602_z.jpg)
Each head is attached to these black steel plates that radiate out from the central bearing. Each head is attached to the main carousel wheel with several bolts and nylon washers. The bolts are not tightened down all the way, which allows each head to "float" side to side, about 1/4-1/2" or so. When more than one head is lowered into the registration gates, this allows each head to adjust slightly left or right to fit the gate. Since the heads are attached to this steel strap and the center bearing, they cannot move back and forth or rotate, they just self-adjust to fit the gates.
Aaron tried to over-engineer the press, so they included 4 nylon registration bolts in each gate. This actually made the press almost impossible to setup correctly, as their manufacturing tolerances were horrible. The bolts never aligned correctly so the heads would bind, or have slop. I set it up to use just one pair on each gate and it worked marvelously. In the pic below you can see how I back out the rear pair. (left them in as spares) Also in the background you can see where the head bolts to the wheel (blurry though)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2437/3742249582_8e67e1eab4_z.jpg)
The Workhorse press with AHD is this same design, but done much MUCH better with higher quality. I liked the Aaron for what it was but they are no longer around so I ditched it (worried about replacement parts)
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Oh...and if you want to see a pic of a crazy manual press head:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3428/3741452079_a083210ce8_z.jpg)
:o
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That press looks like a tank and maybe an overkill. Maybe Workhorse had something to do with it's demise?
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Picked up my Workhorse 6/6 today. It's going to be a project for a few months to clean off the spray tack, new paint job and some adjustments to get back into all heads down. Luckily its the newer model with the spring covers.
Going to be looking for a some brackets if anyone has any?
I'll look around, I might have some pallet brackets.
The pics of the press above was after I cleaned it. It was covered pretty bad in spray tack.
Used this:
http://www.realmilkpaint.com/citrus.html (http://www.realmilkpaint.com/citrus.html)
VERY concentrated stuff. Wipe a little on, wait a bit for it to loosen the tack, scrub off. (I would do a second wipe-down with simple green or similar) 1 gallon will clean several presses.
Good luck on the re-furb!
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That press looks like a tank and maybe an overkill. Maybe Workhorse had something to do with it's demise?
From what I recall reading in a forum post somewhere, they sued them back to the stoneage.
Point I was making with the above posts is that a normal Workhorse (or Odyssey) press cannot be adjusted to to AHD printing.
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That press looks like a tank and maybe an overkill. Maybe Workhorse had something to do with it's demise?
From what I recall reading in a forum post somewhere, they sued them back to the stoneage.
Point I was making with the above posts is that a normal Workhorse (or Odyssey) press cannot be adjusted to to AHD printing.
That's freakin' ironic as Workhorse's beginnings are somewhat sordid. Ask Riley Hopkins.
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The print heads that I started cleaning. Kinda of strange that each head has 1 metal and 1 black plastic micro adjustment , will be ordering metal one to replace the plastic ones I think.
(http://s2.postimage.org/20ta3lddj/image.jpg)
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Before I bought my Hopkins BWM I almost went down to Los Angeles and pick up a clean Aaron press just on the looks of that printhead lol.
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The print heads that I started cleaning. Kinda of strange that each head has 1 metal and 1 black plastic micro adjustment , will be ordering metal one to replace the plastic ones I think.
([url]http://s2.postimage.org/20ta3lddj/image.jpg[/url])
From what I remember, all the new ones have nylon eye bolts and plastic adjustment knobs. Supposed to be smoother with less play than metal when adjusting. Since the bolts are for adjusting only and don't hold anything in place, they can be nylon. Call Workhorse about it.
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Thanks for the info. Im going to replace all of them all and start off with fresh ones , replacing all the nylon gate bolts too.
Painting the base in an hour or so, will post up pics.
Already sick and tired of cleaning spray tack , got a headache from the press wash. As expensive as presses are why someone would want to use that nasty crap is beyond me.
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I think it's just ignorance.
Most of us started out with the spray tack.
Then we all joined a posting board and found out there was something better.....and why.
Even though I now use a waterbase tack now, my press still has some old spray tack on the arms. Some from the previous owner, some from me......I need to clean it.
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I'll still use web spray for fleese but I spray very carefully, least you can control where that goes. If I get a few spot on the arm Im right there cleaning it up. Maybe I have neat freak issues lol...
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I think Andy has posted about taking a piece of cardboard and cutting out the center to fit over the platen like a shield when you spray. Excess stays on the cardboard.
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what the paint looked like before
(http://s1.postimage.org/ktefjslnb/raw.jpg)
new paint
(http://s1.postimage.org/ktdbuw9sn/workhorse_referb.jpg)
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what the paint looked like before
([url]http://s1.postimage.org/ktefjslnb/raw.jpg[/url])
new paint
([url]http://s1.postimage.org/ktdbuw9sn/workhorse_referb.jpg[/url])
That's nice and all, but tell us more about the Gretsch kit....
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That is my second Gretsch Kit a Catalina Maple ( 10" and 12"toms , 14" and 16" floor toms , 22" kick) with Pork Pie "little squeeler" snare . Picked up this shell kit in mint condition off criags list for 300.00 , retails for close to a grand. Some rich guy bought them couldnt play them due to a shoulder condition, hardly a mark on the drum heads. Came with and extra matching birch 12" tom (know anyone wanting a 12" tom?). Love these drums , they sound awesome and full.
My son rocking them.
(http://s4.postimage.org/kmkdtq9fb/riley_drums.jpg)
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My son rocking them.
([url]http://s4.postimage.org/kmkdtq9fb/riley_drums.jpg[/url])
Awesome.
I play a 14 rack, 18 floor and 24 kick.
My main kit:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3071/2695360976_2b9afe8eb0_z.jpg)
All my kits:
PP Platinum, Tama Granstar Custom (1989 era) and the maple kit I built a few years ago.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3018/2716509112_d245c702a9_z.jpg)
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Something tells me you like black.
Whats cool about having so many drums on my set I can experiment with different set ups. Being a punkrock drummer I'll rock the slimmed down one tom, snare, kick and one floor but at practice I got em all up there to screw around and geek out with (might as well). When I play out I bring the basics, what one can do with less is more impressive than who can bring the biggest set up not to mention to much set up time between band's sets.
Thinking about buying a 24" kick drum and building 2 sets out of my one , one for practice and one for playing out. My wife grounded me from buying any more drum gear lol just dumped too much on those A Customs. I'm in 2 active and recording bands , can't be playing junk B8's lol.
One of my crappy bands www.stolenbikes2000.bandcamp.com (http://www.stolenbikes2000.bandcamp.com)
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But can you do this? Takes 23 seconds to load up before anything moves. If you watch, be sure an get past halfway. At that point they actually play drum duet taking turns. Back in 2007, they were in Houston and my son's band, Dine Alone opened for them.
GODSMACK- - Erna & Larkin- - Percussion Duet (Drum Solo) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzqpiUefzTw#noexternalembed)
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Those clowns have nothing on this guy lol
BUDDY RICH IMPOSSIBLE DRUM SOLO *HQ* (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9esWG6A6g-k#)
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Something tells me you like black. [/url]
Ya think? :D
Gloss black (Tama), matte black (the custom built kit) and sparkle black (PDP):
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2224/2695353288_8309a99ffd_z.jpg)
The Tama kit is pretty much retired. I toured/recorded on it from 1990 to 2007. The thing is just beat to hell.
My main snare is solid bloodwood:
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1202/1388597302_b553d10809_z.jpg)
I play all Paiste 2002's.
24" Ride
22" Ride
20" Ride
2 old 22" Power Rides cut down to 17" (hi hats)
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Those clowns have nothing on this guy lol
BUDDY RICH IMPOSSIBLE DRUM SOLO *HQ* ([url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9esWG6A6g-k#[/url])
That was pretty freakin awesome though lol
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I have a paiste 2002 18" ride , hate it! Want it? I have a paiste 14" bottom high hat too its from the series that the 2002 replaced.
My current hats are 15" master sounds , I have have pair of 13"s too for recording, though I miss my Newbeats.
All of my 3 crashes are 18" (dark crash , normal , and a fast crash) , a Sabian 19" Paragon China (neal peart signature) and Sabian HH ride (changing this one when Im alowed)
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I have a paiste 2002 18" ride , hate it! Want it?
No thanks. Too small.
;D
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Evo you must play some heavy ass jams! Bigger drums and all rides? Thought I was hardcore will all my 18's lol .
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Those clowns have nothing on this guy lol
BUDDY RICH IMPOSSIBLE DRUM SOLO *HQ* ([url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9esWG6A6g-k#[/url])
I agree. Buddy Rich was pretty awesome. I like the Godsmack because it's done as a drum duet. I've never seen another traveling band that does that.
Drums have some good videos available. This one was kind of interesting once you get into the drums playing -
http://www.drummerworld.com/Videos/gingerbakerdrumbattle.html (http://www.drummerworld.com/Videos/gingerbakerdrumbattle.html)
And then when I was growing up in the 60's when rock and roll was on the radio, this guy actually had some hit recordings as drum solos - He's a whole lot older here....but so am I, lol.
sandy nelson drum solo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAFKxtx0CkY#)
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Johnny Rabb Acoustic Kit (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQ7e-qrQ2Gw#)
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Evo you must play some heavy ass jams! Bigger drums and all rides? Thought I was hardcore will all my 18's lol .
Sleep - "Dopesmoker" Live @ Terminal 5 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DBxdUqOFRw#ws)
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Throw some china crash in that drum set up, make it sound evil. The heaviest most evil band I've ever seen thier drummer had nothing but chinas for crashes. Funny thing is they were a christain death metal band. ;D
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Throw some china crash in that drum set up, make it sound evil. The heaviest most evil band I've ever seen thier drummer had nothing but chinas for crashes. Funny thing is they were a christain death metal band. ;D
What band was that?
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Sounds like Underoath.
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what the hell music
halloween until next month :o
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I have to say. This thread really went off on a tangent.
Shawn, it kind of looked like you posted before and after "paint" pics, but I never saw anything.
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Throw some china crash in that drum set up, make it sound evil. The heaviest most evil band I've ever seen thier drummer had nothing but chinas for crashes. Funny thing is they were a christain death metal band. ;D
What band was that?
Never caught thier name, some weird bacement show I went to in Myrtle Beach SC.
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I have to say. This thread really went off on a tangent.
Shawn, it kind of looked like you posted before and after "paint" pics, but I never saw anything.
Are my pics not showing up again? I'm 75% through the refurb.
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Are my pics not showing up again? I'm 75% through the refurb.
If I hit "quote" on your posts I can see the pic URL's in there. Copy/paste into the address bar lets me see the pics.
Convenient!
:P
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I did the same thing. It's odd as the IMG statements look correct.
Shawn, all heads down or not, you have an upscale model from my workhorse. Or at least a fashion of it. I do NOT have the center pivot shaft rising from the bottom brace structure to the upper plate for the bearing. Also my arms do NOT fasten to Vertical plates like yours. I think you made a good deal.
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The heaviest most evil band I've ever seen thier drummer had nothing but chinas for crashes.
Sorry, but to be honest that sounds unbelievably dumb.
:P