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screen printing => General Screen Printing => Topic started by: bimmridder on May 19, 2016, 09:37:28 AM
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I know we've been down this road before, but I want to bring it up again. We are getting platen and/or squeegee marks on some shirts. Of course it's the soft style stuff for the most part. We aren't using blade wider than the platens. We aren't using too much force. We aren't over flashing. We try to use best meshes to minimize squeegee force. We can't kill this bear. I've tried spraying with a mist before/after going through the oven. I've tried Magic Sizing (worked on hoop marks in embroidery). I've tried brushing with a lint brush after exiting the oven. Short of washing them, I can't eliminate the problem. So, anyone have any good ideas for me?
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rub with a damp cloth before taking off the pallet. The moisture will steam in the dryer.
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you can also lightly mist that area with water before sending down the dryer
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Yes a little mist will do it.
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I'm assuming your squeegee ends are rounded? This has help us on this type of garment.
Murphy
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+1 to rounded edges on the squeegee. I also try to remember to ensure the squeegee is perfectly centered in the holder, as if its even a little off to one side it can result in the platen edge leaving a mark.
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How sharp or "edgie" are the boards? Does this add to the problem? That's what's actually leaving the impression isn't it?
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I have tried misting before and after running through the oven. Squeegees are rounded. Printing on rubber top M&R platens. Keep 'em coming
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I have tried misting before and after running through the oven. Squeegees are rounded. Printing on rubber top M&R platens. Keep 'em coming
I still ask just how sharp are the edges of the M&R rubber tops?
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Frog is on the right track
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Since you are depressing the rubber wouldn't that leave a mark as you are creating a ridge while printing?
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how do you round the edges correctly?
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I use a little hand held rotary electric sander usually, but even just holding a piece of sandpaper on the ground with your foot and rubbing the corner of the squeegee on it works fine. I think I use 200 grit usually. Something high enough that it doesnt shred the rubber, but enough to make quick work of it at the same time. Radius of the curve should be maybe 1/4 of an inch at most.
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In bimm's case, the square or rounded corners of the squeegee are a moot point since he told us that the squeegees are smaller than the width of the boards (which he calls platens, but that's another thread in itself, LOL!) Well, at least he said that they are not wider. If they are smack dab on the edge, then it could also be an issue, but I ask again, how sharp or rounded are the edges of the rubber tops?
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Try a hand steamer.
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I round the edges of the squeegees with a bench grinder with a fine grit wheel on it.
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I hear beer works
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On problem garments we use a water soaked sponge and rub all the way down the sides in one swipe before unloading. It has worked surprisingly well for us.
As usual, all shops are different and your mileage may vary.
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no one has asked if he is running a squeegee roller??
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I have tried misting before and after running through the oven. Squeegees are rounded. Printing on rubber top M&R platens. Keep 'em coming
Hey Dave!
Unless this is Common Core math...let's say your blade is 16" with radiused ends ~15.5" contact length and your platens are 17" wide. Unless the surface of the platens is an extreme dish [concave], I don't see how the screen is compressing the garment at the edges of the platens since there would be ~3/4" between the end of the blade and the edge of the platen. If your roller-screens are reasonably tight [and I already know they are] then how can we consider the platen-edges as the cause of the problem? With ANY level of off-contact gap, the mesh between blade and the roller runs uphill--low at the end of the blade and higher 3/4" away.
So if this is the case I would try raising the off-contact gap to reduce the net pressure on the platens. If you have a dial indicator handy you could read the residual pressure as the distance of any platen deflection. Reducing the force on the blade might help but not unless the gap is sufficient. And if somehow beyond the realm of natural phenomena the edges are the cause, increasing the gap may still help.
You might put a 4" long blade centered in the standard holder, it will be much easier to achieve zero or near zero net pressure. Make a print and inspect for edge-flaws. If they are due to the blade, you will have a racing stripe in the center only. If the swath is 17" wide due to the edges let me know in which case moisture may help re-orient the fibers.
JC
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For long runs in my shop we take a thin piece of foam around 2mm thick and tape on the underside of the screen where the squeegees go...... This will cushion the blade on the garment surface enough to eliminate any marks and not cause any ink transfer problems.
It's an extra step/cost but this eliminates it 100%
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For long runs in my shop we take a thin piece of foam around 2mm thick and tape on the underside of the screen where the squeegees go...... This will cushion the blade on the garment surface enough to eliminate any marks and not cause any ink transfer problems.
It's an extra step/cost but this eliminates it 100%
Hey Danny, this seems like a good idea where do you get the foam? Is it like the self adhesive foam that is used to insulate a gaping door in the winter? Curious minds want to know!
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Try under floor padding from home depot. Like the stuff you use under laminate flooring.
Murphy
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You can pick up double sided foam tape from uline, Home Depot, etc. Put a regular piece of screen tape down then the foam tape so it's easy to remove. That or a local craft place will sell 2mm craft foam you can cut in stripes then tape over on the shirt side of screen. You just want the foam to be thin 1-2mm max. I have struggled with pallet marks on certain blanks/colors regardless of what I do so on long runs this is what I do and has seemed to work well for me. It was tonyp on here I believe that posted this and the last several jobs I've avoided pallet marks this way.
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Awesome thanks Danny!
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I know what u mean on softstyle. It's like hoop burn w embroidery. Water refurbishes the fibers, but seems like the underside absorbing tape, under sides of squeegee and where it lifts off is optimal.
Let us know your professional findings.
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Danny's solution sounds great, how soft is the foam?
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I had one customer mention the marks, I told her it was from printing the shirts............... She seemed to understand that.
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It is generally only an issue on shirts destined for retail.